Sactownog

1933 Dodge BARN FIND - HARLEAN'S COMEBACK

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well, the engine is done, mated to the transmission this weekend. I had to take time to paint the transmission to match the engine or it would be in the car already. 

 

very happy with how it looks. now just need some time to get the engine in the car and move on to the next issue. 

 

the Transmission I got from George Asche which is from a 39 Plymouth/Dodge has a different stick shift mounting point. so I think I may need to now find a new shifter for the Trans. 

 

its always something. 

20200315_134745.jpg

20200315_134751.jpg

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Does the new trans clear the X-frame?  How are you planning to mount the trans since the Floating Power setup will be different?  Engine and trans looks terrific.

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10 hours ago, Taylormade said:

Does the new trans clear the X-frame?  How are you planning to mount the trans since the Floating Power setup will be different?  Engine and trans looks terrific.

from my understanding of it so far, the bell housing mounts to the cross member where the shifter and food peddles are mounted. the transmission has a rear lower cross member mount that the transmission sits on. if for some reason it is different and does not sit under the trans correctly, I may have to do some modifications. 

 

right now, my next move is to get the engine in the car and jack up the transmission to find out what has to be done to make it work. but I am praying it works smoothly. 

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Looking good !!

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2 hours ago, Sactownog said:

 if for some reason it is different and does not sit under the trans correctly, I may have to do some modifications. 

 

Check the length of your drive shaft....

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5 hours ago, Sactownog said:

from my understanding of it so far, the bell housing mounts to the cross member where the shifter and food peddles are mounted. the transmission has a rear lower cross member mount that the transmission sits on. if for some reason it is different and does not sit under the trans correctly, I may have to do some modifications. 

 

right now, my next move is to get the engine in the car and jack up the transmission to find out what has to be done to make it work. but I am praying it works smoothly. 

 

On my 32 DL there is a rubber pad on a crossmember just in front of the bellhousing, but the engine/trans is not attached to the pad, they just rest on it.  There is a mount that attaches to the transmission near the rear of the transmission.  This is a rubber mount.  I see that your bellhousing has no “arms” to attach it to the frame, so your setup must be similar to mine.  My car also has a half leaf spring that runs from the trans to the frame to prevent the motor/trans from twisting too much on the Floating Power rubber mounts.  My concern is that if your front motor mount is the standard Floating Power rubber mount, then your rear trans mount has to incorporate an isolated rubber mount to make the system work.  Mounting the trans solidly to a fabricated mount, even with rubber pads, may effect the front mount (it may be too flexible, or rip apart from the strain).  Not trying to turn this into a downer, but from a long list of frustrations with Floating Power you may want to be careful with your rear mount setup.  It certainly looks like you will need a shorter driveshaft depending on how far your free-wheeling unit (if you had one) stuck out of the back of the trans.  Maybe you’ll be lucky and your original rear rubber mount will work on your new setup.

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4 hours ago, Taylormade said:

 

On my 32 DL there is a rubber pad on a crossmember just in front of the bellhousing, but the engine/trans is not attached to the pad, they just rest on it.  There is a mount that attaches to the transmission near the rear of the transmission.  This is a rubber mount.  I see that your bellhousing has no “arms” to attach it to the frame, so your setup must be similar to mine.  My car also has a half leaf spring that runs from the trans to the frame to prevent the motor/trans from twisting too much on the Floating Power rubber mounts.  My concern is that if your front motor mount is the standard Floating Power rubber mount, then your rear trans mount has to incorporate an isolated rubber mount to make the system work.  Mounting the trans solidly to a fabricated mount, even with rubber pads, may effect the front mount (it may be too flexible, or rip apart from the strain).  Not trying to turn this into a downer, but from a long list of frustrations with Floating Power you may want to be careful with your rear mount setup.  It certainly looks like you will need a shorter driveshaft depending on how far your free-wheeling unit (if you had one) stuck out of the back of the trans.  Maybe you’ll be lucky and your original rear rubber mount will work on your new setup.

the same way my front motor mount and rear bell housing mounts were from the start is how they are going to be when I put the engine back in. the lower cross member that goes under the tranny is the only concern but is easily fabricated. my engine and bell housing will mount to with front arms resting on frame and rear ball housing resting on the shifter cross member. 

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I saw your photos of the installation of your engine and trans on Facebook.  It looks great!  Now I see why your Floating Power setup works with a different transmission - the trans mounts attach to the bellhousing.  My 32 has a totally different setup which makes it impossible to do what you have done.  Looks like my fussing and worrying was totally unfounded.  Saner heads prevailed - as usual.

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On 3/17/2020 at 10:57 AM, Surf City '38 said:

 

Check the length of your drive shaft....

new drive line will be made/fabricated. 

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On 3/24/2020 at 12:06 PM, Taylormade said:

I saw your photos of the installation of your engine and trans on Facebook.  It looks great!  Now I see why your Floating Power setup works with a different transmission - the trans mounts attach to the bellhousing.  My 32 has a totally different setup which makes it impossible to do what you have done.  Looks like my fussing and worrying was totally unfounded.  Saner heads prevailed - as usual.

your insight is always welcome so that I know what to look for in all areas. 

now I am fussing with the clutch linkage. cant remember how it went on and took shitty pics. 

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Mine is probably different 😀 but I have detailed photos I’d be glad to post if you need them.

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got the engine in the car, my issue is once I got the transmission shifter in the car, I was not able to switch gears. come to find out the links that George Asche gave me were incorrect for my 1933 Dodge stick shift 

 

I have contacted the Asche family and they said they will send me other links that may work. problem is the links I have have one linke that is low and the other link stands up a couple inches which does not allow my shifter to move the left side link that controls reverse and 1st gear. 

 

If the new link's they send me do not work, I am afraid my only other option is to switch out the OD trans for the stock 3spd. 

 

after all this work, I may end up going back to the standard 3spd again and just sell the OD 39 trans. well see. 

 

 

IMG_20200330_172820_582.jpg

IMG_20200324_233512_451.jpg

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Just goes to show. "its always something".

I hope you can get that OD working after all this.

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I know nothing about OD units.  I assume the rear case is the actual overdrive, just behind the actual trans case.  I guess the OD case will not bolt up to your 33 trans case - that would be way too easy.

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Posted (edited)

NEED HELP. 

 

DO THE FORKS OF THE SHIFT LINKS GO IN THE ROUND SLOTTED AREA? 

 

I believe the driver side "Reverse & 1st"  has a "C" style mount into the slide area where my finger is pointing 

 

and 

 

the passenger side link "2nd & 3rd" go in the slot where my finger is pointing. 

 

anyone have info on this. hope you understand my quarantined drinking typing. 

 

1st pic is rear 

2nd picture is forward toward engine. 

20200410_164948.jpg

20200410_164955.jpg

Edited by Sactownog (see edit history)

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I will say yes.

You should be able to test for fit by taking the forks out of the cover.

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Posted (edited)

NEED A LITTLE HELP: 

WHAT TRANSMISSION FLUID  SHOULD I USE, I PREFER HIGH END OIL LIKE LUCAS.

CAN i USE?  Lucas heavy duty high performance SAE 80W-90 GEAR OIL for the trans. 

TRANS 2.jpg

TRANS 1 (1).jpg

Edited by Sactownog (see edit history)
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Posted (edited)

I wont know, but sometimes the OD takes a different lube than the tranny itself.

It may help if you remind us of what tranny and OD units you have.

You could start with 90 and lighten it up if its hard to shift.

Edited by JACK M (see edit history)
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Trans builder said AMSOIL 40W DIESEL SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

BUT I CANT SEEM TO SOURCE IT ANYWHERE????

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