Sactownog

1933 Dodge BARN FIND - HARLEAN'S COMEBACK

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update: 2/11/20

I am spending a lot of time wire wheeling bolts, cleaning, and painting every part to make sure the engine looks as good as possible. 

 

so far this is the progress from last night's late night. 

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There are a few bolts that are 100% original to the car, some of them have the DB logo on the top of the bolts. 

 

I have decided to wire wheel, clean, and clear these bolts and keep them for hidden little gem's on the engine. 

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bolts are clear coated to show the DB on the heads of them on the water pump. 

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Got most of the engine back together. came to a stopping point when I realized that "Then and Now Automotive" who I had revulcanize my bushings, did not send me back my original parts for the front motor mount and the bolt holes on top did not line up. 

 

Apparently they are saying the front motor mount upper is flat and the lower is U shaped and that this is not standard for any years 33 - 53. so they don't have a template to make my front engine mount. 

 

now they are sending me a new front engine mount with a template for me to drill new holes in my upper engine mount to make it work "I Hope". Kind of pissed me off they kept my original upper plate but well see what the new engine mount looks like.

 

otherwise, engine is going to get taken off of the stand this weekend and put on the ground so I can put clutch/flywheel/bell housing/ and transmission on and get ready to drop in the car. 

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Silver and Black with Gold Bolts are looking really good. I am very happy with the look. 

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Sorry to hear about the situation with your motor mounts.  Not sure if it would help but you are welcome to come down to SD and look at the mounts on my 34 DRXX as an example.  You may not remember me but we met at Vista a couple of years back, I had my 34 PE sedan (picture attached) and you had your sedan up and running.  Following your thread, nice work, will have to pick your brain on local engine folks when I get to the engine on the DRXX.   

vista 2015 two.jpg

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34 minutes ago, Scott Bonesteel said:

Sorry to hear about the situation with your motor mounts.  Not sure if it would help but you are welcome to come down to SD and look at the mounts on my 34 DRXX as an example.  You may not remember me but we met at Vista a couple of years back, I had my 34 PE sedan (picture attached) and you had your sedan up and running.  Following your thread, nice work, will have to pick your brain on local engine folks when I get to the engine on the DRXX.   

vista 2015 two.jpg

Saw your car in Vista last year....

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21 hours ago, Sactownog said:

Got most of the engine back together. came to a stopping point when I realized that "Then and Now Automotive" who I had revulcanize my bushings, did not send me back my original parts for the front motor mount and the bolt holes on top did not line up. 

 

Apparently they are saying the front motor mount upper is flat and the lower is U shaped and that this is not standard for any years 33 - 53. so they don't have a template to make my front engine mount. 

 

now they are sending me a new front engine mount with a template for me to drill new holes in my upper engine mount to make it work "I Hope". Kind of pissed me off they kept my original upper plate but well see what the new engine mount looks like.

 

otherwise, engine is going to get taken off of the stand this weekend and put on the ground so I can put clutch/flywheel/bell housing/ and transmission on and get ready to drop in the car. 

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 I have some old mounts 33, let me look them up, they seem to be like you described,  pictured below, this mount is from 33 Plymouth coupe,,,,

 

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Edited by knobless (see edit history)

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Got the front engine mount on after a little modification. 

 

I can complain about http://www.then-now-auto.com/ and what they did with my original front engine mount, but its fixed now so I wont complain about it. I just wish they would not have pulled a bait and switch on me without telling me what they were doing. 

 

anyway's I believe this new engine mount will work just fine and now I will be hoisting the enging off the stand, putting it on the ground and getting the flywheel/clutch/pressure plate, bell housing, and transmission mounted to the engine and load it into the engine bay all at once. 

wish me luck. 

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Then and Now re vulcanized my motor mounts for a 36, however did swap out my emergency brake parts, would not fit, had to have them rebuild my original brake shoes. Little extra down time.

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4 hours ago, 1936 Viper said:

Then and Now re vulcanized my motor mounts for a 36, however did swap out my emergency brake parts, would not fit, had to have them rebuild my original brake shoes. Little extra down time.

they do this stuff and dont bring it up to the customer, they just take the liberty of changing something that has been the same for 85 years. very unprofessional and a true irritant when building a vehicle. little extra down time = days lost on build. I wont use them unless I have to in the future. 

 

 

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NEED HELP: 

WHAT ARE THE STEPS TO INSTALLING THE BELL HOUSING, FLYWHEEL, CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLATE? 

 

-I tried to put the flywheel on after the bell housing was mounted. It was very difficult. 

 

-Then I took off the bell housing, and put the flywheel on, then tried to put the bell housing, over it and it wouldn't go on. 

 

-Then I loosened the pressure plate, slid the bell housing over the flywheel, it worked. but then would have to tighten on the flywheel, then try to get the clutch and pressure plate on. 

 

I believe the 3rd try above is the correct way to get it on. but any in site would be appreciated. 

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Fortunately it has been a while since I've had to deal with the clutch. But that also means it has been a while since I've done this and memory may be foggy on details.

 

It is possible to R&R the clutch pressure plate and disk with the bell housing attached to the engine. It is also possible to R&R the flywheel with the bell housing attached to the engine. I've done both while lying on my back under the car, once to replace the clutch the other time to work on the rear main seal.

 

If the engine is out of the car, I suppose it might be possible to get the clutch and flywheel on before bolting on the bell housing. But I have never done it that way and don't recall which way the bolts that hold the bell housing go.

 

The way I've done it:

  • Bell housing installed.
  • Install flywheel, tighten all bolts. Hard but not impossible.
  • Loosely install clutch disk and pressure plate.
  • Use alignment tool (I have a input shaft from a disassembled spare transmission but even a broom handle could be made to work).
  • Tighten the pressure plate cover bolts.
  • If in the car with things pretty much together you won't be able to mount the transmission because the shaft with the throw out fingers will block the throw out bearing. You need to remove the linkage from the shaft to the clutch pedal and rotate the shaft out of the way for clearance.

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On a 32 DL you can’t install the bellhousing after the flywheel is installed.  The locating pins hang the bellhousing up.  I had to install the bellhousing, then slide the flywheel up and bolt it in place.  It’s a real pain as the bolt pattern will only allow the flywheel to fit in one position.  Getting it up inside the bellhousing, rotating it to the correct orientation and getting the bolts into the holes is a task that can try men’s souls.  Then I put the clutch disk and pressure plate in place, holding the disk in position and centering it with a spare pinion shaft from an extra trans.  I then bolted the pressure plate down, rotating the flywheel to get at all the bolts.  You feel like you need six hands to get the job done, but patience and deep breathing will get you through.  My wife helped out holding things in place and calming my nerves.  I did all the work while the motor was hanging from the engine hoist, stabilized by some wooden supports.  Have fun.

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26 minutes ago, Taylormade said:

On a 32 DL you can’t install the bellhousing after the flywheel is installed.  The locating pins hang the bellhousing up.  I had to install the bellhousing, then slide the flywheel up and bolt it in place.  It’s a real pain as the bolt pattern will only allow the flywheel to fit in one position.  Getting it up inside the bellhousing, rotating it to the correct orientation and getting the bolts into the holes is a task that can try men’s souls.  Then I put the clutch disk and pressure plate in place, holding the disk in position and centering it with a spare pinion shaft from an extra trans.  I then bolted the pressure plate down, rotating the flywheel to get at all the bolts.  You feel like you need six hands to get the job done, but patience and deep breathing will get you through.  My wife helped out holding things in place and calming my nerves.  I did all the work while the motor was hanging from the engine hoist, stabilized by some wooden supports.  Have fun.

She's a good woman! I had to do the same thing on my 1931 DH6, but I had to do it all myself.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)

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See what happened when Dodge's were Chryslerized Nothing like that on my 2249 Senior All goes together easy 

 

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         I was able to push the pin's in the block and put the flywheel, clutch,pressure plate on and then slip over the bell housing, next is me trying to get the transmission into the engine. its fooking heavy. 

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I keep forgetting this isn’t the original motor in your car.  Glad things worked out so well.

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Put the tranny on blocks parallel to your engine, with the engine hanging like that it should be easy.

A good trick is to use a couple of long bolts with the heads cut off as guides

One thing about getting that last  inch, If the clutch plate is even a smidge off-center you may need to figure a way to disengage it. Meaning figure a way to push the lever enough for the plate to come loose and allow the pilot shaft to find the bushing.

You should be able to start a bolt or two by then but don't try to force that last inch.

 

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Further to Jack M's suggestions, I like to put the transmission in 3rd gear (free wheeling, if equipped, locked out), so that you or an assistant can slightly rotate the output flange one way then the other to assist in getting the splines on the input shaft aligned with the splines in the clutch disc.  This is virtually a necessity when you use the (highly recommended) two long pilot bolts Jack specified, because when using them you can no longer rotate the transmission itself to align the splines.

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