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1931 Buick rear hub removal.

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Heres what I use for our 31' 90 series.   I had to make the extensions which are just 2 grade 8 nuts welded together.  Thread the extension bolt in one end and thread the other grade 8 nut to the lug stud.  This was the quick and easy fix when I already had the hub puller.  


Our car needed lots of heat on the rear hub along with the puller the first time.  It was on there probably 30+ years.  I just pulled them off last fall for service and they popped right off. 


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  • 3 weeks later...



I do have wire wheels. Not sure if it would work on a wood wheel hub. My hubs have a small lip that the jaws can just grab, and with the Posilok locked down the puller was able to keep hold of the hub



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  • 2 weeks later...

I have purchased "split collars" and used a large jaw puller (8") to pull wheels off.  You can place a rag or rubber to protect the paint between the split collar and the part you are trying to remove.  This example is of a water pump gear that I am removing.  SOMEONE ELSE BROKE THIS FLANGE.  That is why I like using a split collar.  It transmits all the load close to the part I want to save, and it gives a place for a large puller to hold on to.  Note the hand mallet.  I tighten the puller up, and then I give a smack on the end of the threaded puller shaft.  Turn it until tight again, and then another whack.  It takes a while to pull some things apart.  I also locate the puller jaws on top of the 2 split collar bolts.    Hugh



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