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56 ignition


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ok so the 2 barrel carb on a 56 has those 2 wires to start the ignition on it. i put a 4 barrel carb on it now and i need to figure out how to hook up the wires to start the car. i am wondering if a push button hook up will work but wanted to see what others thought before i go wasting my money or blow something up.

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Looking at my 1955 shop manual, the pink wire goes to the starter relay,

and the yellow goes to the back of the gas gauge. I can not tell which one is

positive or negiatve.

However, this is easily discovered. Use a test light, and check the wires with the ignition

on, and then while it is cranking. You should be able to tell.

Let me know if you need a copy of the wiring diagram. You should be able to find the feed under

thr dash taht goes to the carb. switch, and either feed it with a ground or a positive from

under the dash.

If you run a new feed from the fuse box, make sure you fuse it.

Scott Mich BCA# 6619, OCA # 3947

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The yellow wire is +12V and is energized when the ignition switch is turned on. The started switch on the carb is not polarized, therefore you can hook up either the pink or yellow wire to either terminal on the carb switch.

The yellow wire just feeds +12 to one side of the carb switch. WHen you step on the accelerator and the switch makes, it routes 12 V to the pink wire which in turn energizes the starter relay and the relay fires the high current switch to the starter solenoid to engauge the starter.

It is reasonable for you to put a pushbutton switch in place of the carb switch if the carb switch is not there. I had my carb switch apart this summer and measured it when closed - 0 ohms - no hidden loads. The schematic for the car shows that the yellow wire is 18 gauge - size your switch accordingly - 1 amp should be plenty. Get a momentary pushbutton switch that makes when you depress it and breaks when you release.

Also, the yellow wire is not directly fused - the 14 gauge (thicker) pink wire is however, but the fuse is prbably sized for the heavier wire. Make sure the ign switch is off while you are hooking this up. Better yet, disconnec the battery and then you can ohm out the switch circuit before you energize it.

BTW - I am referencing the 1955 chassis schematics - I expect that the 56 schematic for this circuit is identical but am not positive - I reccommend you get a 56 manual or someone that has one to verify.

Scott - the ground for the fuel gauge is established back at the tank - the pink and yellow wires at the node by the fuel gauge are both 12V. Based on the schematics, the fuel gauge is probably reading current regulated by the rheostat position on the float sender back in the tank, or it could be reading the voltage drop across a load resistor built into the fuel gauge - I can't tell. The current is running from the pink wire through the gauge, through the brown wire to the sender to chassis ground. The schematics in the service manual are confusing and I think have mislabeled the sender as a gasoline gauge at the end of the 18 gauge brown wire. I deleted the word Gasoline Gauge (just above the Backup Lamp label) at the end of the 18 gauge wire and wrote SENDER in its place. On the schematics, you can see the word SENDER with a little arrow noting which terminal on the gas gauge goes to the sender in the tank.

Hope this helps and good luck.

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My 56 shop manual shows yellow going to #4 on neutral saftey swith and pink going to #4 on starter relay. It looks to me like you can use momentary contact to join pink and yellow and it should only crank with the key on in neutral or park.

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thanks to all for the info, especially KAD36 who took the time to write a pretty lengthy reply. I am pretty sure i have my answer and i did pick up a push button starter so i will install it tomorrow and see what happens. thanks again all.

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