Hubert_25-25 Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 (edited) Kyle, Here is one of your door check strap end pieces in your photo. This is where it would be located on the door as well. They are low on the door below the lower hinge on my 25 Standard. You can see the 2 holes on my hinge post that held the check strap. Larry says they are higher on a Master Touring, but you have old wood that should tell you what is correct for a Roadster. Hugh Edited December 30, 2017 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted December 30, 2017 Share Posted December 30, 2017 (edited) Kyle, These 2 views show the 2 carriage bolts in each sill that are used to hold the door opening bottom brace and the door opening angled upper support. The carriage bolts are pushed in from the bottom up before the sheetmetal is installed. The inner hole is the thru bolt for the frame. Also notice that they used 1/4" wood strips on the outside bottom of the sills. A scrap piece of wood was used inboard at the frame support. A piece of 1/4" reinforced rubber is used as a body mounting pad. The next body mounting pad is under the seat. Hugh Edited December 30, 2017 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 The small angel of the wood on the bottom is to make sure no water sets still on the body sheet metal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted December 30, 2017 Author Share Posted December 30, 2017 pic. 1 The finished part, perfect fit 3 angle cuts on both ends to match door post, the seat is going over this part and my old wood shows this part was 1'' thick but at a angle, so I don't know how wide this originally was. The broken wood was just wrapped in wire to stop it from falling apart. This piece of wood stops the whole body from changing shape, when someone slams the door this part is going to take a beating. My cuts are touching the hole post good and tight, now the casting will get bolted to this part and the floor longboards. This is the key part that holds the body shape, I bet on most cars this was the first wood part that breaks and the doors don't look good after that. The car was meant to be used for 5 to 10 years is what I keep hearing from everybody this part is going to be beefy in my car cut to perfection and bolted as best I can pull off pic. 3 A test fit board made of a 2x4 cut to get longer to make test fitting easy it gets longer this board was the hardest part so far in the whole car . pic. 2 this only transfers the basic shape not any of the angels . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted December 31, 2017 Share Posted December 31, 2017 On 12/29/2017 at 8:53 PM, Hubert_25-25 said: Kyle, Here is one of your door check strap end pieces in your photo. This is where it would be located on the door as well. They are low on the door below the lower hinge on my 25 Standard. You can see the 2 holes on my hinge post that held the check strap. Larry says they are higher on a Master Touring, but you have old wood that should tell you what is correct for a Roadster. Hugh Kyle : I think Hugh is correct as to placement. That is why I said to check your original hinge post. My 1925-45 car was re-upholstered in 1980 or so. I was not going to pull the door and side kick panels to check. On all other cars I have seen the check strap near the bottom. People must have had smaller feet back then. My 11 1/2" Ds struggle to get out the door without rubbing the strap on the Standard. A 1/4" thickness makes a difference. My having the strap higher on the Master does not get in the way of my feet as easily. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 getting closer the red striped part is copied from a casting that won't come loose yet from soft top 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted January 2, 2018 Author Share Posted January 2, 2018 On 12/27/2017 at 8:47 AM, dibarlaw said: Check the body on your 1924-45 there maybe the same type of retaining plates near the bottom of the door post. Finished retainer(right) with unstamped blank on the (left}. Brown strap shows original retainer plate. There were still holes left to locate the # 10 Nickel plated oval head wood screws. The Standard was close to the floor. Here is the location of my Master check strap. I would still verify to see if there are any holes left in the old wood parts. Did u make a way to shape the small bends in the ends I am sure I will need a couple for the next car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted January 2, 2018 Share Posted January 2, 2018 Kyle : As I recall just a bit of bending with a wide face plier or tapping with a hammer. I used a piece of tool steel as a dolly back up. It took me about 2 hours to do all 8 of them. Check on the other thread" Where do these pieces fit" to see the photos I posted of the seat and parts book reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted February 5, 2018 Author Share Posted February 5, 2018 On 12/26/2017 at 11:43 AM, dibarlaw said: Hugh researched the dureometer? scale and all. Do you have it written down .the rubber and the scale # that would be grate .For the doors. I'm getting close to needing to make these Yay . --kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 (edited) Buick Rubber (for 1925 Buick Standard) Body to frame pads SBR-70A Body mount rubber needs to have reinforcing in it. Cloth inserted SBR-70A Rubber Sheet – ¼” thick 12” width x 12 “ width Purchased off Amazon. (sold by “Rubber Cal” 800-370-9152)https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006G1RHEO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I have a cheap harbor freight die set that I use to punch holes. I use a piece of wood and the die and squeeze the die thru the rubber using my bench vise, and the wood is for the base of the rubber to protect the die. I use very large tin snips to cut the rubber pieces. Door Bump Stops Neoprene 30A For making the trapezoid shaped door bump stops. 2 required per door. This is the correct "soft" rubber 30A Neoprene, ¾” thick x 2” wide x 36” long search part number “6030-3/4x” or G1430274 Purchased from Zoro. https://www.zoro.com/e-james-rubber-strip-neoprene-34th-36x2-30a-6030-34x/i/G1430274/?q=6030-3%2F4x Will need to cut using a band saw. Be careful not to pinch the blade. I also found these, but don’t know the cost of shipping from Australia, or the durometer.http://www.oldera.com.au/door-buff-block-all-gm-to-1925-28/ They also sell the rubber and metal pieces that the door dovetail slides into (door striker). (Bobs Automobilia sells these too) http://www.oldera.com.au/door-striker-block-cap-all-gm-to-1928/ Radiator Hose Continental Elite 56020 Standard Straight Radiator Hose search “continental elite 56020” Purchased on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C32JYA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Lengths to cut this to can be found in the Big Book of Parts. This is a really good quality radiator hose. Hugh Edited February 5, 2018 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Kyle, These are what the rubber door stops look like, and the rubber door strikers that the dovetails fit into. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted February 10, 2018 Author Share Posted February 10, 2018 cool looking trim I will look for some now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted February 11, 2018 Share Posted February 11, 2018 (edited) Kyle, This is the latch, the dovetail, and the aluminum piece that hits the top door bump stop. This is a rear door. This is the door jamb for a front door. Wondering if you also have the nickel socket that holds the side curtain rod This is what the side curtain rods look like - notice that the screw shown sticking out is what holds the side curtain socket in place. These are the side curtain snaps. You may have an approximately 3/8" hole in the sheetmetal on the cowl and behind the door. These are like Buick gold. They are no longer available. They also take a Whitworth socket to remove or install, or you can make a special socket like Larry DiBarry cleverly did out of an old aluminum dogbone wrench that he filed to fit. You have to be careful not to round off the corners of the hex during removal or installation. There should be one in front of, and one behind each door. The snap holder on the door is available and only takes a screw in the center. Edited February 11, 2018 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted February 12, 2018 Author Share Posted February 12, 2018 On 2/10/2018 at 6:52 PM, Hubert_25-25 said: Wondering if you also have the nickel socket that holds the side curtain rod yes I was wondering what is this ??? kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 On 2/10/2018 at 6:52 PM, Hubert_25-25 said: There should be one in front of, and one behind each door. The snap holder on the door is available and only takes a screw in the center. Edited Sunday at 10:00 AM by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) I was looking at some of these wondering where they go ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 On 12/27/2017 at 6:20 AM, Restorer32 said: We have a good local supplier. Pretty much the same price as KD oak. Bends well. We prefer using it in our steam bent bows. Some folks can be allergic to ash dust. I'm allergic to work does that count ?? kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 On 2/10/2018 at 6:52 PM, Hubert_25-25 said: Wondering if you also have the nickel socket that holds the side curtain rod yep a lot of parts to put in this car it is not like a Ford . Do you have a curtain rod we could put drawing up ?? maybe --kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Kyle, I do have the side curtain rods for my car, and I know Larry needs a set for his 25-25. I do not know if he has a set for his 25-45. They will be close but different for a 1925-44. The side curtain rods for my car are factory stamped so you know which door they go in. These are a back burner project for me. I took some photos and made a quick drawing to get you in the ball park. There are some slight offsets, and to make drawings of these correctly will take some time. Hugh 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 I will have to set up some mill and make a hand full of this shape--kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted March 24, 2018 Author Share Posted March 24, 2018 On 12/29/2017 at 1:46 AM, sligermachine said: The body lines work them from the front of the car to the back is how I'm doing this car both the front cal is level and plum so I made the doors match and reshaped the wood in the doors to match the cal. shape and now the back of the door to the door post ether make the door wood shape match the door post and trim it all down to make them line up in shape so far iv only took a 1/4'' off of one part of the wood in the door the rest of the work is in the shiming of the hinges anged shinm push out and back to get the body lines to where a quarter will just fit after its painted .the gap between the back of the door is controlled by making the car narrower or wider till the line is exactly the same and shiming up up the back of the car keep moving every thing till it lines up it will line up that it how the guy did it in the factory to .when the car rolled off the lot I bet my bottom dollar the body lines were perfect as the craftsman could get the steel body to be . And after its painted s probably too late to change stuff but I would still try the pictures tell the hole story So I was asked how I made the doors twist to match as far as angles in the body so I shaped the out side of the wood to match the body shape . I will take the skin off the doors tomorrow and lay them out so you can see the finished joints and the 1.5 deg. in all the corners . I have gotten so busy lately at the machine shop I have not hardly touched the car in a month.--kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 the last part of the door finished off tonight .Now the drivers door is last --kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 1, 2018 Author Share Posted April 1, 2018 made this one by hand to see how hard it is . the next sets will be made with my cnc the 8 more doors that need to be made in my drive way would take to long by hand . and help some one out one day that saves some time -- kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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