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Kyle, 

    Here is one of your door check strap end pieces in your photo.  This is where it would be located on the door as well.  They are low on the door below the lower hinge on my 25 Standard.  You can see the 2 holes on my hinge post that held the check strap.  Larry says they are  higher on a Master Touring, but you have old wood that should tell you what is correct for a Roadster.  Hugh

 

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Kyle, 

     These 2 views show the 2 carriage bolts in each sill that are used to hold the door opening bottom brace and the door opening angled upper support.  The carriage bolts are pushed in from the bottom up before the sheetmetal is installed.  The inner hole is the thru bolt for the frame.  Also notice that they used 1/4" wood strips on the outside bottom of the sills.  A scrap piece of wood was used inboard at the frame support.  A piece of 1/4" reinforced rubber is used as a body mounting pad.     The next body mounting pad is under the seat.   Hugh

 

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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pic. 1 The finished part, perfect fit 3 angle cuts on both ends to match door post, the seat is going over this part and my old wood shows this part was 1'' thick but at a angle, so I don't know how wide this originally was.  The broken wood was just wrapped in wire to stop it from falling apart.  This piece of wood stops the whole body from changing shape, when someone slams the door this part is going to take a beating.  My cuts are touching the hole post good  and tight, now the casting will get bolted to this part and the floor longboards.

This is the key part that holds the body shape, I bet on most cars this was the first wood part that breaks and the doors don't look good after that.  The car was meant to be used for 5 to 10 years is what I keep hearing from everybody this part is going to be beefy in my car  

cut to perfection and bolted as best I can pull off 

pic. 3 A test fit board made of a 2x4 cut to get longer to make test   fitting easy it gets longer this board was the hardest part so far in the whole car .

pic. 2 this only transfers the basic shape not any of the angels .

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On ‎12‎/‎29‎/‎2017 at 8:53 PM, Hubert_25-25 said:

Kyle, 

    Here is one of your door check strap end pieces in your photo.  This is where it would be located on the door as well.  They are low on the door below the lower hinge on my 25 Standard.  You can see the 2 holes on my hinge post that held the check strap.  Larry says they are  higher on a Master Touring, but you have old wood that should tell you what is correct for a Roadster.  Hugh

 

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Kyle :

 I think Hugh is correct as to placement. That is why I said to check your original hinge post. My 1925-45 car was re-upholstered in 1980 or so. I was not going to pull the door and side kick panels to check. On all other cars I have seen the check strap near the bottom. People must have had smaller feet back then. My 11 1/2" Ds struggle to get out the door without rubbing the strap on the Standard. A 1/4" thickness makes a difference. My having the strap higher on the Master does not get in the way of my feet as easily.

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On 12/27/2017 at 8:47 AM, dibarlaw said:

Check the body on your 1924-45 there maybe the same type of retaining plates near the bottom of the door post.

DSCF4839.thumb.JPG.07bb2f7415ead8a126d0f89d65efa90a.JPGFinished retainer(right) with unstamped blank on the (left}. Brown strap shows original retainer plate.

 

There were still holes left to locate the # 10 Nickel  plated oval head wood screws. The Standard was close to the floor. Here is the location of my Master check strap. I would still verify to see if there are any holes left in the old wood parts.

DSCF6439.JPG

Did u make a way to shape the small bends in the ends I am sure I will need a couple for the next car 

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Kyle :

 As I recall just a bit of bending with a wide face plier or tapping with a hammer. I used  a piece of tool steel as a dolly back up. It took me about 2 hours to do all 8 of them.

Check on the other thread" Where do these pieces fit" to see the photos I posted of the seat and parts book reference.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Buick Rubber (for 1925 Buick Standard)            
Body to frame pads  SBR-70A    Body mount rubber needs to have reinforcing in it.  
Cloth inserted SBR-70A Rubber Sheet – ¼” thick 12” width x 12 “ width
Purchased off Amazon.  (sold by “Rubber Cal”  800-370-9152)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006G1RHEO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have a cheap harbor freight die set that I use to punch holes.  I use a piece of wood and the die and squeeze the die thru the rubber using my bench vise, and the wood is for the base of the rubber to protect the die.  I use very large tin snips to cut the rubber pieces.

 

Door Bump Stops    Neoprene 30A  
For making the trapezoid shaped door bump stops.   2 required per door.  This is the correct "soft" rubber
30A Neoprene, ¾” thick x 2” wide x 36” long     search part  number “6030-3/4x” or G1430274
Purchased from Zoro.  
https://www.zoro.com/e-james-rubber-strip-neoprene-34th-36x2-30a-6030-34x/i/G1430274/?q=6030-3%2F4x


Will need to cut using a band saw.   Be careful not to pinch the blade.
I also found these, but don’t know the cost of shipping from Australia, or the durometer.
http://www.oldera.com.au/door-buff-block-all-gm-to-1925-28/

 

They also sell the rubber and metal pieces that the door dovetail slides into (door striker).  (Bobs Automobilia sells these too)

http://www.oldera.com.au/door-striker-block-cap-all-gm-to-1928/

 

Radiator Hose
Continental Elite 56020 Standard Straight Radiator Hose    search “continental elite 56020”
Purchased on Amazon.  
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C32JYA/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Lengths to cut this to can be found in the Big Book of Parts.  This is a really good quality radiator hose.

Hugh

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Kyle, This is the latch, the dovetail, and the aluminum piece that hits the top door bump stop.  This is a rear door.   

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This is the door jamb for a front door.

 

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Wondering if you also have the nickel socket that holds the side curtain rod

 

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This is what the side curtain rods look like - notice that the screw shown sticking out is what holds the side curtain socket in place.  

 

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These are the side curtain snaps.  You may have an approximately 3/8" hole in the sheetmetal on the cowl and behind the door.  These are like Buick gold.  They are no longer available.  They also take a Whitworth socket to remove or install, or you can make a special socket like Larry DiBarry cleverly did out of an old aluminum dogbone wrench that he filed to fit.  You have to be careful not to round off the corners of the hex during removal or installation.

 

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There should be one in front of, and one behind each door.   The snap holder on the door is available and only takes a screw in the center.

 

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Kyle, 

      I do have the side curtain rods for my car, and I know Larry needs a set for his 25-25.  I do not know if he has a set for his 25-45.  They will be close but different for a 1925-44.  The side curtain rods for my car are factory stamped so you know which door they go in.  These are a back burner project for me.  I took some photos and made a quick drawing to get you in the ball park.  There are some slight offsets, and to make drawings of these correctly will take some time.      Hugh

 

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On 12/29/2017 at 1:46 AM, sligermachine said:

The body lines work them from the front of the car to the back is how I'm doing this car  both the front cal is level and plum so I made the doors match and reshaped the wood in the doors to match the cal. shape and now the back of the door to the door  post

ether make the door wood shape match the door post and trim it all down to make them line up in shape so far iv only took a 1/4'' off of one part of the wood in the door the rest of the work is in the shiming of the hinges anged shinm push out and back to get the body lines to where a quarter will  just fit after its painted .the gap between the back of the door is controlled by making the car narrower or wider till the line is exactly the same and shiming up up the back of the car keep moving every thing till it lines up it will line up that it how the guy did it in the factory to .when the car rolled off the lot I bet my bottom dollar the body lines were perfect as the craftsman could get the steel body to be . And after its painted 5a4605ee03a45_20171229_003755_Film11.thumb.jpg.6284c626e61e7d1708f086539abaf462.jpgs probably too late to change stuff but I would still try the pictures tell the hole story 

 

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So I was asked how I made the doors twist to match as far as angles in the body so I shaped the out side of the wood to match the body shape . I will take the skin off the doors tomorrow and lay them out so you can see the finished joints and the 1.5 deg. in all the corners . I have gotten so busy lately  at the machine shop I have not hardly touched the car in a month.--kyle  

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