65VerdeGS Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 The power antenna on my '65 seems to strain when raised and lowered. The motor labors and seems louder than it should be when working, and the antenna goes up and comes down rather slowly. My aerial is not bent, and I can't see any obvious reason why it wouldn't work faster and not as noisily. I can't recall what it was like before as i think it has gradually gotten slower over the 30+ years I've had the car. Is this caused by an internal 'bind'? Would lubricating the aerial help in any way? If so, what should I use, and how do I lube the aerial and mast? Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 If there's a bind or built up of hardened grease, it's probably inside the motor and flexible nylon cable inside the body of the antenna. I doubt that the shaft would be causing any bind, unless it was bent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Concur. If it's straining, your best best is to pull, disassemble, and recondition the motor and drive assembly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Curran Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 I have used graphite powder on my antennas as a lubricant over the years and it always worked well and never had a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 (edited) Over time, an accumulation of dirt, dust and corrosion, a bent mas sectiont, plugged drain hole, or a binding nylon cable will slow down the operation of the power antenna. Before removing the unit for an overhaul, try polishing the various sections of the mast, and lubricate SPARINGLY with graphite powder or a light silicone lubricant. Oil attracts dirt, so only use a little to lube each section of the mast, Armoral is also a light silicone based lubricant. IIf the unit still strains to move the antenna up or down it may be time for a removal and refurbish. Power antennas were not intended to be repaired, but they can be carefully disassembled, greased and adjusted. Usually it's a combination of dirt and corrosion in the base of the unit, a broken or binding nylon cable, or dried out grease, or misadjustment in the clutch portion of the motor . There are instructions in the shop manual to explain the procedure, and there are a couple of articles published in past issues of the Review. Edited December 22, 2017 by 68RIVGS (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 (edited) If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, go over to the Reatta Owners site and contact Barney Eaton about doing it for you. Edited December 22, 2017 by RivNut (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 15 hours ago, KongaMan said: Concur. If it's straining, your best best is to pull, disassemble, and recondition the motor and drive assembly. Can a power antenna be removed without removing the fender also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 (edited) 26 minutes ago, Fayetteville, NC said: Can a power antenna be removed without removing the fender also? Yes sir Pretty easy. You don't remove the escutcheon. Remove the bottom bracket and loose a bolt just under the escutcheon. The unit drops down then angle her out. Mr. Curran has a good idea. We used spray on graphite to lube H-60 helicopter parts. Manufacturer approved. Don't believe the wear theories with that stuff. Edited December 22, 2017 by PWB (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 29 minutes ago, Fayetteville, NC said: Can a power antenna be removed without removing the fender also? There's an access cover inside the inner fender. Take off the nut and washer in the middle of the cover, that stud is on the base of the antenna. Then remove all of the sheet metal screws that hold the cover in place. Remove the cover and the antenna base will be accessible. Unplug the antenna and slide it out of the fender escutcheon. Re-assembly is the revers process. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 5 hours ago, Fayetteville, NC said: Can a power antenna be removed without removing the fender also? Not a problem Mike, but you need long arms for 2nd gen - just like Mr. Paul described! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 7 hours ago, RivNut said: There's an access cover inside the inner fender. Take off the nut and washer in the middle of the cover, that stud is on the base of the antenna. Then remove all of the sheet metal screws that hold the cover in place. Remove the cover and the antenna base will be accessible. Unplug the antenna and slide it out of the fender escutcheon. Re-assembly is the revers process. Sorry. This is how you do it on a first generation Riviera. CNK on the 2nd generation process. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65VerdeGS Posted December 29, 2017 Author Share Posted December 29, 2017 On 12/22/2017 at 6:17 AM, Pat Curran said: I have used graphite powder on my antennas as a lubricant over the years and it always worked well and never had a problem. Thanks Pat and others who provided tips and suggestions on how to lubricate my power antenna. Just back here after the Christmas break. I I used graphite to lube speedo and tach cables in the past and it worked very well. We'll see how it goes with the antenna once I get some to try it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted December 29, 2017 Share Posted December 29, 2017 GM used an antenna made by Tenna in the '60 -'70's, there are several things that will make them sluggish. (1) bent antenna....with the antenna UP, rotate (turn) the second and third chrome sections, do one at a time, they are often bent where they go into the next section so most owners do not see the bend. as you turn the section the top of it will go in a circle....it is bent. (2) as mentioned above, the motor drives a set of reduction gears which drives the clutch that raises and lowers the mast. I have worked on antenna that have not worked in years and the grease come out in chunks. (3) both of the above put a strain on the motor and the brushes arch.......pull the 2 screws that hold the motor together, disassemble and clean the brushes and commutator. Of course it you don't resolve #1 & #2 the brushes will arc again and you are back where you started. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
65VerdeGS Posted January 8, 2018 Author Share Posted January 8, 2018 Thanks for the info Barney! I'm going to do as you suggest tonight and rotate the chrome sections of the anntenna when the mast is up to see if they are bent before digging further into the antenna motor assembly. Cheers, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted January 8, 2018 Share Posted January 8, 2018 My experience with all of the systems that used this same grease (antenna, power seats, power windows, etc.) is that after 50 years, it's hard. That's why I don't even try to work around the problems anymore; I go straight for a rebuild. It may be that you have a bent antenna section or the like, but if your motor and gearbox have never been opened, you can be confident that things will work a lot more smoothly and quietly if you take it apart, clean it, and lube it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hermanangus Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 I just did a clean and re-adjust on mine. The drawings in the manual were not quite right in regards to the top section of the one out of my 64. The grease was clean, but quite solid in many places. I was able to get all parts apart, cleaned greased and re-assembled following the directions in the shop manual. The nylon drive cable was in good shape. The adjustment was fun, but not bad with the help of a buddy and a high end fish scale. The only bit of advice I have is be very careful when you pull out the bearings on the drive arm. It powers up and down well, but will intermittently quit sometimes on the bench. I think I will have to go into the motor side next and see what I can find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 . . . possibly a corroded, broken, or loose connection to the DC motor ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edhhjr Posted January 3, 2021 Share Posted January 3, 2021 (edited) Hate to be the newbie bumping old posts but need help. While taking apart the power antenna I let the motor and gears hit the floor. Thankfully the pic above helped put it back together. Question is how does the end of the nylon cable attach to the motor, thats why I took it apart in the first place. I looks like the cable is "stored" in the ring shaped cup just inside the gear housing, but there's no holes or places to attach. This site been helpful with my buick and olds. Thanks for any help. Update: Thinking it's the clutch plate that grabs the cable and pushes into the cup ring, close? Edited January 3, 2021 by edhhjr (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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