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My Retro 1930's BUICK SALES and SERVICE GARAGE


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I will find a use for the rest of the spray bomb paint on work tables etc where some spatter wont matter,  such as this vice table I got at the Doraville GMAP auction. And guess what, it went on perfect on it, go figure!!!. Disregard the overspray on the vice, my plans are to give it a fresh coat of correct color some day.

 

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This table with vice is one heavy boy, two men can hardly lift and move, so using my nifty little engine hoist eye bolt, I took the opportunity to ad some heavy duty locking casters to it.

 

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@MrEarlThat rolling vice table should come in very handy!  Good idea!  Before I mounted the vise to my work table in the garage I was thinking of getting one of those 48" rolling tool boxes to use as the base.  Just didn't have enough room here to store that rolling tool box

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Looks great!  I know you said that table is heavy, but it looks like it would still tip over depending on what the project was on the vice???  I nearly tip over my cabinets with mine now if I am bending anything long.  Of course most of the time I'm not using it for that purpose, so maybe I'm just thinking too much 🙃.

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16 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:

but it looks like it would still tip over depending on what the project was on the vice?

 

Good point Billy and especially with the locking casters, I was a bit concerned about them. I haven't used it in that regard yet so will do some experimenting with it. Hmmmm, wonder if a matching paint 322 short block would fit on the lower shelf, that may help counterbalance it ya think?  Thanks for stoppin in!

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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21 minutes ago, MrEarl said:
37 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:

but it looks like it would still tip over depending on what the project was on the vice?

 

Good point Billy and especially with the locking casters, I was a bit concerned about them. I haven't used it in that regard yet so will do some experimenting with it. Hmmmm, wonder if a matching paint 322 short block would fit on the lower shelf, that may help counterbalance it ya think?  Thanks for stoppin in!

Bolt it to the wall.

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6 hours ago, old-tank said:

Bolt it to the wall.

 

As evidenced by the existing holes and bolt head witness marks in the bottom leg plates (which luckily matched the casters mount holes) it was once bolted to the floor of the GMAP.  Once everything is all "strategically installed" in the "finished" shop (a bit of humor there) I may bolt it down again. 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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On 11/4/2021 at 11:20 AM, MrEarl said:

 

As evidenced by the existing holes and bolt head witness marks in the bottom leg plates (which luckily matched the casters mount holes) it was once bolted to the floor of the GMAP.  Once everything is all "strategically installed" in the "finished" shop (a bit of humor there) I may bolt it down again. 

How ‘bout an angle bolted to the wall that has a couple drift pins that will drop through the table top?  You won’t want to give up the flexibility of keeping this thing portable.  
 

Glad to see the progress!

 

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On 11/5/2021 at 10:56 PM, JoelsBuicks said:

 You won’t want to give up the flexibility of keeping this thing portable.  


Good point and I strongly suspect this is where it will reside eternally lol. There is a 2x4 lathe about midway up the wainscoting I could use to secure the angle and drift pins per your suggestion. I’ll add it to my mile long list. 

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So to update: 

 

While I was happy with the all wood cabinets I had gotten from a cabinet shop in Atlanta I wasn’t happy with the looks of the fake  plywood Beadboard paneled doors.

 

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Another trip to Lowe’s got me some nice 3 1/2 inch x 8’ knotty pine Beadboard plank. My goal from the get-go was for these upper cabinets to match the front and rear double barn doors that I built out of the salvaged 1890’s beadboard. Close enough. 
 

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Then to get a stain to match said barn doors 


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First round was close but no teddy bear. Went with a tinted Minwax Poly and got a decent enough teddy bear. 
 

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Tied them together with a top shelf with beaded rail. 

 

 

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Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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Lamar, with all these "new" cabinets you're going to have to acquire more tools and/or Buick parts to fill them with.  Or, here's an idea, put in a kitchen and rent it out as an Buick Gardens Roadside Inn.

Edited by dship (see edit history)
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Right now I have tools spread between all three barns and the house, will be so good to have them all in one place so I don’t have to use my waning memory to try and remember where they are. 
Funny you mention kitchen, just bought a stainless sink and small water heater, single cup Coffee maker and a hot plate for frying spam, what else does a shop kitchen need. Can’t wait to try out the septic tank I posted about years ago now. 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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10 hours ago, MrEarl said:

Right now I have tools spread between all three barns and the house, will be so good to have them all in one place so I don’t have to use my waning memory to try and remember where they are. 

Then you'll need Etta's Estate Wagon so you can make quick trips back to this garage to get em. 

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15 hours ago, EmTee said:

How soon before I can move in...?  ;)

 

Today if you want to help finish the cabinets out, put beadboard ceiling in the front garage entrance, apply a sealer to all the walls,  install the overhead light fixtures and all switches and and outlets. Then we'll get started in the office area.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Catchin up….

 

Ran some 2x’s along the wall in order to be able to feather out and get the cabinets in a straight line and to also cut down on the front overhang of the planned butcher block top. F828D990-520D-4450-994E-DC712226F55E.jpeg.8d272179bf829005886995b3283e0120.jpeg
 

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Then had to make some new adjustable legs to replace some of the missing and bent ones. 
 

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Ran up on some oak butcher block on Market Place, for less than half Loews price. 
 

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Before installing the counter top I lag bolted the cabinets to the wall and bolted the cabinets to each other.

 

 

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I had cut out and sealed the edges with poly to prevent any possible future water intrusion from swelling the wood. 
 

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Then I sealed it with black Watco Butcher Block stain and sealer and will be applying tung oil over that. 
 

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Then FINALLY cleaned all the drawer and door handles and installed all the drawers. 

 

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Which reminds me.......haven't posted any music in awhile.....

 

 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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7 hours ago, EmTee said:

Don't make it better than what's in the house, lest the Mrs give you another cabinet project...  ;)

 
shush yo mouth, THAT has already been a top of deep and intense discussion, for a couple years now in fact. Kitchen and bathroom remodeling😬 "Yes dear, just let me finish the BS&S first and I'll get right on it."
 

and to those of you thinking “this guy never does any mechanical work, just carpentry” I’ll have you know I did some today, I put a rear end in my recliner, so there….. 

Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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21 minutes ago, Machine Gun said:

Absolutely wonderful work! Wishing you many years of satisfying work in there.

 

Thanks Jim, appreciate that. Jim, apparently I'm a poor planner, time wise. When I started this build some 6-7 years ago my plan was to, at the most, take a couple years to getter done then start on a line of project cars. Accruing and using salvage building materials, being pretty much a one man crew, life happenings and for the last couple years, health problems, has put me at this point. Completion is still some 3-6 months out (which with my time planning will be more like a couple years). I'm lucky to have had another couple barns in which to do some work and to store the project cars. But thanks for the well wishes, here's praying God sees fit to give me time to get it done and good enough health to turn a few wrenches before he calls me home.

 

 

43 minutes ago, Machine Gun said:

So what's left to do other than installing the bar and the urinal?

Tha's already done, the beer fridge is on the other end of the shop and remember, I'm a tall guy.

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Can you explain the pipe that runs through the flanges that mount to the top?  This seems a little hocus pokus to me or is this something commercially available?  Did you thread those two pipes the whole way?  Whatever, it’s very clever.  And, once again it is very nicely done.

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10 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said:

Can you explain the pipe that runs through the flanges that mount to the top?  This seems a little hocus pokus to me or is this something commercially available?  Did you thread those two pipes the whole way?  Whatever, it’s very clever.  And, once again it is very nicely done.

 

DEFINITELY not available commercially, had an old old school plumber thread them for me. I looked forever and a day for pipes with threads that long that would extend through the 1.5" counter top and down long enough to be able to comfortably hook onto. Lowes nor Home Depot would override their machine to make them. Finally called on an old long retired plumber friend to make them for me. The whole assembly and getting the sink in past the faucet was as you say "hocus pocus" LOL 

thanks for the "nicely done" comment, appreciate it.

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Lamar, I saw your earlier pics showing the hot spigot on the right hand.  I then took a look at your later pics and saw that you moved the hot to the "plummers correct position" left hand.  I just knew you'd know the correct side with the experience/expertice of the trades that you have. 

Edited by dship (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, dship said:

Lamar, I saw your earlier pics showing the hot spigot on the right hand.  I then took a look at your later pics and saw that you moved the hot to the "plummers correct position" left hand.  I just knew you'd know the correct side with the experience/expertice of the trades that you have. 

 

Dang, y'all ARE paying attention aren't you LOL. Yea, I think that happened when I made one last turn on the top most vertical and horizontal pipes so I just switched the handles. And of course you're not the first to have noticed it, RITA was. 🙄

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I really enjoy seeing the “in progress” pics as they tell some of the story about your thought processes and techniques.  For example, In one picture you show that you have a third pipe flange but everybody knows you only used two.  You obviously bought three so as to use the third to help in layout.  
 

You also have a tri-square close by so that the whole faucet sits perfectly square as adjusted by the flanges.  Then, there’s the folding rule.  The person that never used a folding rule is really missing out as there are many times it is far more handy than a tape.  There’s the notebook, pencil and reading glasses.  Gotta build this first on paper!

 

Lastly there’s the quick evolution of the faucet nozzle going from a standard ell to a street ell.  Not hard at all to envision that one but again an insight into your way.  
 

I am thankful that you take the time to share the journey with us.

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39 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said:

Lastly there’s the quick evolution of the faucet nozzle going from a standard ell to a street ell.

Right on all counts but you probably wouldn't have had to trial and error on the street ell vs standard. You would have known that the internal threads in the standard 1/2 to 3/8 ell would create more splatter of the water coming out than the standard ell. Swapped them and the water runs smooth. Considered grinding the threads off for esthetics but then I wouldn't be able to use a hose bib adapter off that ell in order to have hot water outside if needed. 

42 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said:

Then, there’s the folding rule.  The person that never used a folding rule is really missing out as there are many times it is far more handy than a tape.

and accurate, especially when using the sliding piece in the end.

 

Thanks Joel, y'all's comments are a much needed inspiration.

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