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My BUICK SALES and SERVICE GARAGE


MrEarl

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If voluminous means very open and airy, yea I guess that is what I am going for :P. Also for the purpose of accommodating a lift hopefully some day. And yea I'm sure I'll have the walls covered something. Hell with the 2x6 pine wall boards I could hang a 322 block from it if I wanted to. :D The office area ceiling will be at 12 ft and I wanted that to give the feel of the old show rooms. There will be a big old ceiling fan in the center and a couple of chandelier style lights on both sides of it.  I did once consider making a storage room over it but then looked around me and thought to myself "what do I need more storage area for, I'm downsizing remember".  

 

I kept thinking about that tin overhang difference and after thinking back that I never did actually measure it, I got a ladder out and measured it today. Actually only about 5/8 to 3/4 inch difference in that 40 ft run so as ol Guy Clark says, hell maybe I can paint over that but (now that I told ya about it)  I can't hide it from you :lol:

 

 

 

 

so here's a few shots of the chicken house salvage blue board (bb)  insulation starting to go up. This is Styrofoam brand Extruded Polystyrene insulation with an R value of 5 per inch. What I am using is 1 inch thick. Hosed it down with a water hose and to answer the question before it is asked, nah, it doesn't smell like a chicken house. I spaced the girts 2 ft apart instead of on center so the 2'x8'x1" pieces of blue board would fit between. Then I taped what gap there was between the girt and bb

 

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The smaller frame outs are for thru the wall air conditioners, one on each side, staggered, and then up front will be a combination A/C Heater for the office area.

 

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And then on top of the girts I installed 1/2 inch foil faced polystyrene sheathing, leaving 1/2 inch air space between the sheathing and the blue board. The southwest wall gets strong summer sun in the summer so foil facing will act as a radiant barrier. With the 1" bb and the 1/2" sheating I should have an R value of about 8-9. I taped the seams of the sheathing also as this will be my air barrier and the fiberglass batt insulation will breathe from the in side of the building. My plan is to add yet another 1" thk sheet of bb on the inside of the girts, then a 1 inch air space then 3 1/2 inches of un-faced fiberglass batt insulation. The walls will be 1 1/12 inch pine boards. Altogether I should have about R-28 walls. Maybe.

 

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Lamar,

 

That "out building" from the original Buick garage looks great. You are doing great work.

 

On hiring the crane, I agree that sometimes there are things that make more sense to hire than do yourself.   Smart move.

 

Up here I need to hire a crane (I am on the schedule for spring) to move some semi trailers.  Up here, to get the crane to my property I am required to pay a $500.00 fee to drive it over about 2.5 miles of county road.  Nothing on the truck, just the crane.  Crazy but need to get the trailers moved.

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Thanks Larry.

 

5 hours ago, Larry Schramm said:

Up here, to get the crane to my property I am required to pay a $500.00 fee to drive it over about 2.5 miles of county road.

 

Geeze ' $500 !!!! So who gets the $500, the county, state or who.

 

17 hours ago, JoelsBuicks said:

I think it will give you that “voluminous” look and feel.

 

a bit more on the height and insulation  In Georgia, it typically does not get that terribly cold. Hardly ever single digits, teens maybe once or twice a winter and lows mostly in the mid 20's/30's. This winter being an exception with teens and twenties every day since Christmas practically. But for what the blue board cost me ($1 sheet) plus the ease of installing it and the fact I am only going to be heating and cooling with thru the wall air conditioners and ceiling mounted electric heaters I figured I better use the salvaged insulation to as big of an advantage as I can. I am also using it in double layers on the roof and then R-19 fiberglass in the ceiling. I can't take the heat like I use to and hopefully what with the insulation I am doing along with the 12 to 15 ft vaulted ceilings and using floor and ceiling fans to keep air moving I will not need to run the AC's much.

 

 

 

And on this Sunday morning

 

 

 

Before starting to put the tin on the sides, since I am not enclosing the eaves which will hopefully give good ventilation and keep the ceiling cooler in the summer, figured I'd put up some rodent (squirrel, bat, bird and racoon) barrier. I cut some 1/4" hardware cloth into 9 " strips and stapled in between each truss between the bottom purlin and top of truss carrier

 

 

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Mr. Earl,   You are doing a great job. Beautiful shop. How are you going to keep your A/C from going out the screen vents? I can't believe you are doing all this work in this 25-30 degree weather. When I lived in N/J I put up a pole barn and put 6 clear or semi clear roof panels to let in natural light  and when I put up my 36 X 48 garage here in SC I put in the clear roof panels also.  Keep up the good work and the pictures.

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Thanks for stopping by and your kind words Gary. Firstly, all the work thus described was actually done a couple or so years ago,  I am playing catch up on telling it. Regarding the screen vents, there will be a tin ceiling attached to the bottom cord of the scissor trusses, so there will be no air coming into or going out of the roof. Hopefully   :lol:

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After taking care of the tree rats with the hardware cloth up top, ran some ground rat guard along the bottom. Tha's a grade string line in orange. Another great benefit of the rat guard was that it made holding and screwing up the tin so easy. Not finding all the pictures I know I took of putting up the siding on the sides.

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My good friend the 8 ft level taking a rest break

 

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Inspector Kowpi holding a concrete block down

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My help finally arrived to help temporarily wrap the end sheet of tin around the corner to keep it from cutting somebody.

 

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Hmmmm need to get some stone down to keep the red Georgia clay from staining the tin don't I....
Ran some poly along the treated 2x8 base board up to the rat guard and out about 3 feet to help keep the rain water from migrating back under the slab. 4 feet of the stone will be left exposed as a poor mans sidewalk and the rest was feathered out to allow better drainage after backfilling over it with topsoil. It also has positive drainage parallel with the building.

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Happened to notice the sawed contraction/control joints doing their job

 

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And Elvis coolin it in the shade.

 

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OK, here is how I trimmed out the windows. I will be installing some french doors as windows hinged at the top to open to the inside. I just used the old rule of starting at the bottom and covering up as you go to keep the water moving. I furnished the metal works company where I bought the tin for my roof with some sketches and dimensions of how to form the tin and it all worked out fine. The only screw up being, I ordered plain galvanized but got galvalume, hence the difference in color. I can paint over that. (Not literally).

 

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A lot of the work so far has been pretty mundane. Turning the corner and getting started on the back wall was a bit more thrilling. Found a good deal on some scaffolding on CL that made quick and safe erection of the back wall go pretty smoothly. One man, one board, one nail at a time.

 

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And get some colors up

 

 

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and some good ol pine 2x12 door headers

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Peace brother...

 

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Truss braces filled in and angled double 2x6s to catch the roofline of the welding shed

 

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Before the tin goes on the back, comes the sheathing. 'fore that though need to install some guards to keep the tree rats from getting in between the truss and tin. Cut some 18 inch flashing in half while still rolled up then rolled it out and cut into measured lengths to fit between the purlins.

 

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Got the back man door in

 

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About this time I recall listening to this guy a lot, in-particular this song. Went somethin like this... 

 

But I swear that God is there every time I glare in the eyes of my best friend
Says my son it's all been done and someday your gonna wake up old and gray
So go and try to have some fun showing warmth to everyone
You meet and greet and cheat along the way

 

Click it and listen if ya like, if not just pass it by...

 

 

 

 

 

Really lovin working with this old yellow pine, most of it is bordering on old heart pine. Every saw cut I make, I get a whiff of lighter.

 

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A good friend from Nashville started feeling sorry for me working by myself so he came down and helped install another layer of blue board on the interior. Along with a little drinkin and cigar smokin....what else are good friends for

 

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After he had enough, I started on the outside with blue board in between the girts and taped good.

 

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and finally the sheathing. I love putting this stuff up, goes fast and you get a lot to show for a days work.

 

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3 minutes ago, 39BuickEight said:

Love the flag!  I took delivery of some old barn metal last week to use on my inside walls. 

 

Cool.      "took delivery" .... not familiar with that term. :lol:    I'll be using the small corrugated tin for 4 ft wainscoat then 2x6's from there 8 ft up.

 

So start a thread and show us what you're doing to your garage.  I am looking to have a early Buick script type flag made for the front of the garage "someday".

 

 

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2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

Having seen the garage at its current point and now reading this thread just emphasizes all the hard work you've put into this!  

 

Yea, didn't no couple of big Huey helicopters come in and drop it off, tha's for sure.   Thanks Matt, I appreciate your appreciation of it. And I know you know how things go when working alone. I'm hoping to get some help when I get started on the inside

 

1 hour ago, avgwarhawk said:

Looking great, Lamar!  

 

Thanks Chris, appreciate that.

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1 hour ago, MrEarl said:

 

Cool.      "took delivery" .... not familiar with that term. :lol:    I'll be using the small corrugated tin for 4 ft wainscoat then 2x6's from there 8 ft up.

 

So start a thread and show us what you're doing to your garage.  I am looking to have a early Buick script type flag made for the front of the garage "someday".

 

 

Here is my place:

 

I've been working on the inside lately, and I need to post some interior pics, but it's a mess right now with various contraction materials/tools/etc strewn about.

 

Once again, like the link to my car's restoration, on a pc there is some random image on the link that's not mine.  Odd.

 

Edited by 39BuickEight (see edit history)
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Im really impressed with how much reused material is going into this and how good it looks.  That old yellow pine lumber is far better than what you can buy these days and that insulation board is saving you gobs of money and your design makes it work.  There’s also a lot of details that may seem minor but I think they make a big difference; like wrapping the sheet metal around the corner and the metal trim around your windows. 

 

I know there’s much left to be done (at this point in your thread) but I’m wondering how much planning you did to this point.  Did you already know electrical requirements? Gas? Communication lines?  Compressed air?  There are a few do-overs I wish I had before pouring that floor.

 

Last night I was in the lumber aisle and saw 16ft 2x6’s were $14.83.  I couldn’t believe it.  One large pole I milled made 22 of them. 

 

Well, it’s looking great.  Everything so straight and square and I don’t give a lot of credit to that 8-ft level; it won’t run itself.

 

 

 

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In my opinion the truck would be more welcome than the Mustang. 

 

Google Maps tells me it's a 24 hour drive from hear to Athens, along with border crossing, tolls, and a time zone change. Who knows what I'd be prepared to bring. Flying is easier for that sort of distance. 

 

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On 1/12/2018 at 3:52 PM, 39BuickEight said:

I've been working on the inside lately, and I need to post some interior pics, but it's a mess right now with various contraction materials/tools/etc strewn about.

 

Awesome garage Billy. Amazed at the number of workers on that roof and probably more on the back side. Really makes me stop and think that I should be hiring out more of my labor as I start on the next phase of mine (the interior).  Sorry to see your thread not down here in the Buick - Garages and Memorabilia forum but understand you probably started it up there before this existed. But uhhh, I can fix that for you if you'd like. :P :)

 

On 1/12/2018 at 9:29 PM, JoelsBuicks said:

Im really impressed with how much reused material is going into this and how good it looks.  That old yellow pine lumber is far better than what you can buy these days and that insulation board is saving you gobs of money and your design makes it work.  There’s also a lot of details that may seem minor but I think they make a big difference; like wrapping the sheet metal around the corner and the metal trim around your windows. 

 

Thanks again Joel. Great to have someone so appreciative of the salvaged material and that shares my view of it's visual appeal. And that has an eye for detail. Wrapping that tin around the corner here is just temporary but is a test fit for other corners that I may elect to do the same thing to.

 

On 1/12/2018 at 9:29 PM, JoelsBuicks said:

I know there’s much left to be done (at this point in your thread) but I’m wondering how much planning you did to this point.  Did you already know electrical requirements? Gas? Communication lines?  Compressed air?  There are a few do-overs I wish I had before pouring that floor.

 

The main approach to planning was to keep it simple. The only water that will be in the building will be a sink in the rear where I will have an on demand hot water heater and a gray water drain system. I had a new meter and big 220 panel installed. The electrical layout will be done with a bit of pre-planning and sketching as to receptacles and lights. I have an electrician friend who will be working with me to lay it out, I run the wire and he returns to work with me in installing receptacles and light boxes.  Compressed air will likely be copper on the exterior of the walls, but also considering using the RapidAir 3/4 inch HDPE tubing inside the walls for the long runs.  Communication lines may present a challenge. I really don't want to pay for another land line but all the metal makes receiving router signals tough. I have some things in mind though.

 

On 1/12/2018 at 9:29 PM, JoelsBuicks said:

Last night I was in the lumber aisle and saw 16ft 2x6’s were $14.83.  I couldn’t believe it.  One large pole I milled made 22 of them. 

 

 

Yea, don't them little price signs put a smile on your face.  And around here you really don't know what kind of wood you're buying, they just refer to it as "White Wood".

 

On 1/12/2018 at 9:29 PM, JoelsBuicks said:

Well, it’s looking great.  Everything so straight and square and I don’t give a lot of credit to that 8-ft level; it won’t run itself.

 

ha ha ha, Yea, Ol' Yeller is my buddy for walls and transferring level marks on pins etc. As you know the length of a level to use should be inversely proportionate to the degree of accuracy needed. I think I said that right, in other words the higher degree of accuracy the shorter the level. Hell I love string levels.  :lol:

 

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OK, time to start prettying it up a bit with some trim. After all "It's the Little Things" that make a difference. 

 

 

 

 

Trimmed the back doors out with some of the old yellow pine 2X's.
Another shot of how tight the rings are in this old pine. The wood is so dense the weight of each board is probably twice that of new "white wood". I have no worry about sealing it well initially and resealing every 5-6 years and it holding up to the elements.

 

 

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I like to use the little beveled rain caps over the doors and windows and leave about a 1/8 inch gap between the wood and concrete at the bottom to keep the pine from soaking up water. It helps

 

 

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Laying out the tin for the back side. Kowpi and Nellie Belle playing hide and go seek.

 

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Trying to blend the new in with the old

 

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Note the rusty galvanized camouflage paint job on the new vent V V

 

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An interesting story about the center piece of tin on this back wall. I needed to cut that one piece at the top to match the slope of the roof at the peak and the peak was going to fall out somewhere within the width of that piece of tin. (Not to mention the additional complication of also having to cut out for the vent). The used tin was 23' 6" long. When I took my measurement from ground to top at peak, guess what it was! 23' 6 freakin inches. My lucky day!!! Although I had Rita convinced (for awhile at least) that I had planned the whole building around that one piece of tin being the length of my used tin and that I had figured it perfectly

 

That was about 3 days of work installing that tin. Lot of measuring twice and cutting once. Laying out and cutting the tin to close tolerance around those doors take patience and time. Up and down that scaffolding wears one out by quitin time too.

 

Another little story that happened while this was going on. From atop the scaffolding I saw Elvis laid out like this.

 

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About 10 ft from him I see this, which from atop the ladder was looking like a Copperhead. (Oh oh I just heard another Steve Earle song coming on) 

 

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I shimmy down the ladder and run over to Elvis to see if he is dead or alive and he rolls over with a grin on his face. I kid you not. I look over at the snake and it turns out to be a water snake, a dead water snake full of teeth marks. That dog has a SICK sense of humor.  I really fear though that some day he will get bit by a Copperhead, of which we have plenty of.

 

 

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Well let me go ahead and get this song stuck in my head for the rest of the day.... Click it if you like, if not just pass it by....

 

 

 

About this time I run up on a good deal on some old lab cabinets and move them into the garage to take up all sorts of room and be in the way. These things are heavy duty and heavy period. I bought 6 including the corner cabinet and two sections of the black counter top. Those pieces are unbelievably heavy. IMG_1747_zps1078c3cd.jpg

 

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Shots of when I picked them up

 

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I think they'll look good painted this shade of green some day, eh?

 

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I've always hated the mess that grinding, polishing stainless and welding makes in a shop. So, I decided to build a 10X20 all steel welding and fabrication shed just for welding and grinding etc. Interior walls will be metal as well as tables and cabinetry. No flammables permitted.

Stopped the tin shy of finishing out the full wall and installed some nailers for the wall and roof. 

 

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First thing to do was to do the old 3-4-5 lay out starting with the wall of the main building.

 

 

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Lag bolt some 4x4 PTP posts and add some braces.

 

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Run some 2X6 rafters and 2x4 purlins

 

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Now's a good time to add the blue board as sort of a radiant barrier to keel the ceiling cool, there will be no more insulation in the ceiling and the ceiling tin will be attached directly to the rafters.

 

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get the tin on before the blue board blows away...

 

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some foil face radiant barrier sheathing on the sides

 

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add rodent barrier (1/4" hardware cloth) between the rafters

 

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install the man door and more blue board, note the rodent barrier up top also. Never mind the roll up door, bought and sold if for a profit on CL. It was totally out of character with the building.
 

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more blue board in the inside walls.

 

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Wrap the outside with foil face sheathing

 

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Trim out around the two doors

 

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Install some 2x6's on the back wall for hanging tools on and on the end wall for mounting cabinets to. Note the ceiling already installed. My bud from Nashville came down and helped with this too. The more hands the better when hanging tin on a ceiling.

 

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Wrap it up with some tin, literally. Note the tin just wrapped around the corner...why not...

 

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What I really like about the welding shed is the 10 ft door. I plan to put the welder and table on the right hand side wall as you walk in. There will be swinging doors that I can open to however amount I want to let air flow in. The ceiling will be vented at the peak to allow welding fumes and gases to escape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, retiredmechanic74 said:

Mr Earl everything sounds and looks great.........I just wonder what might happen if you were in there and got an electrical short in a rainstorm??? :) 

 

:(I guess Rita would just collect the life insurance? :unsure:  Thanks for stopping in  :)

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Thought I'd post up some pictures of an old home place that I considered deconstructing for the materials. The house was free but required $2000 deposit and the owner expected the grounds to be free of all debris, graded and grassed in order for the refund of deposit. It has some beautiful old heart pine wall board as well as structural members including 6"X10"X18' beams. It was built before electricity and  had one light cord from the ceiling and one receptacle added per room probably in the 30's. The interior had only ever had one coat of buttermilk paint. The wraparound porch had fallen in and been removed several years ago but some of the balusters were still inside. Because it was so high off the ground I could find no evidence of termite damage and very few powder post beetle holes in the structural members. I inventoried everything and saw a pretty good profit in it aside from all the beautiful wood I could use on the interior of my garage. But it would mean stopping construction of the garage for 2-3 months and storing the materials until sold or used. I have deconstructed turn of the century houses in the past when we built our house, using some of the flooring and architectural pieces,  but in this case my wife was quick to remind me that I am not 30 years old anymore. So I decided to pass on it. I have since found someone deconstructing another late 1800's house and am buying what I need from them, already removed and stacked. Much easier on the old back and knees.

 

This Old House - Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young - '88

 

Click it if ya like, if not just pass it by...

 

 

 

 

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Oops, this picture is actually upside down. Deal with it :)

 

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there were 6 rooms plus a kitchen (the kitchen at one time being detached) of this beautiful old heart pine wall board. Talk about PATINA!!! Far more than enough to do the interior of the BS&S

 

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While there was some evidence of powder post beetle in the flooring I saw very little in the beams, making them ideal candidates for resawing into flooring.

 

 

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Edited by MrEarl (see edit history)
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and the little smoke house. I would love to just have the door off this!!!!! I tried to talk the owner into selling just the smoke house and some of the wall board and trim from the house but it was an all or nothing deal.

 

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Check out the nailing patter of this door. I have a thing for nailing patterns in my own work and appreciated this guys work from probably over a hundred years ago.

 

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and some early molded concrete block and brick

 

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Here is all that was required for the Electrical Inspection AND the Final Building inspection. The panel, one outlet and one light. I had installed the flat 2x6 wall for to mount the panel and to run the wiring up to the top plate on. 

 

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That must have been tough to have to walk away from boards and beams like that.  That old house looks to be a couple steps up from most old places around here.  I’d say that it was built during a prosperous time for someone.  When I see houses like that I wonder, in my melancholy sort of way, how many warm Christmas mornings were celebrated there.  So much of what you show is reusable and if you wanted a fresher look, just a pass or two through a planer would renew a rich and original look.  It would have fit for you but I understand and respect that voice of reason.

 

So what do you do with the original nail holes in the tin?  Probably almost no water would get in.  Also, does the weight of the wall tin sit on that rodent guard at the bottom or do you hold it off of that a bit?  I like the ideal of using it, it may close up things enough to keep the bugs or lizards out.  

 

I wish I had a place like the welding shop to do my sandblasting.  It’s another messy but necessary activity.

 

Elvis is requesting you post that song, “All I want for Christmas is my two nuts back”

 

enjoying your progress!

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Some more "as we go" design/build.  I like the simple little shed roof with wooden brackets design I had used on the old barn and decided to use it on the new. I call it the "brow".  Figuring this out in my head then watching it materialize was some of the most fun I had had since the start.

 

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So using some of the old yellow pine, build some brackets and mount to the walls to receive a 2x6 ledger to rest the lower end of the tin on.

Beveled the top and bottom ledgers to match the slope of the tin. 

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42 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said:

That must have been tough to have to walk away from boards and beams like that.  That old house looks to be a couple steps up from most old places around here.  I’d say that it was built during a prosperous time for someone.  When I see houses like that I wonder, in my melancholy sort of way, how many warm Christmas mornings were celebrated there.  So much of what you show is reusable and if you wanted a fresher look, just a pass or two through a planer would renew a rich and original look.  It would have fit for you but I understand and respect that voice of reason.

 

If the old house is still there when I finish the garage and a couple of Buick projects I may go back for some of the old house. I think I could have talked the folks out of some of it had I tried. I still have an unfinished basement a lot of that old milk paint pine would look great in.

 

47 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said:

So what do you do with the original nail holes in the tin?  Probably almost no water would get in.  Also, does the weight of the wall tin sit on that rodent guard at the bottom or do you hold it off of that a bit?  I like the ideal of using it, it may close up things enough to keep the bugs or lizards out.  

 

I turn the tin to the back side and caulk all the holes with silver caulking. It only leaves a very small tit sticking out the front, not really visible unless you know it's there. Yes the wall tin sits directly on the rat guard. There is a slight bevel to the guard allowing the water to run off. I also use epoxy under the bottom sill plate which helps keep scorpions and ants out to some degree. 

 

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