MrEarl

My BUICK SALES and SERVICE GARAGE

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And then put the inner skin of the bead board on.

 

Lay the frame out at a somewhat comfortable working height.

Notice the cross bracing is laid out different on this the second set of doors. I learned that doing it the previous way gave too little room for toe nailing and the lay out and marking for cutting was much easier this way as it eliminated the need to mark center lines and tangents.

 

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Get the angle right and record it so the exact same angle reversed can be used on the opposing door, then start gluing and toe nailing them in the groove. Just let the ends run wild over the frame...

 

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then C clamp a straight edge in line with but with an offset of the frame to allow for the saw blade position and cut the wild ends off.

 

 

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mix a little mineral spirits with saw dust and rub the bead board to bring some life back into the old shellac. I'll go back later and sand lightly and apply more shellac after installed.

 

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Lay side by side, grab a beer and stand back to see if the beads line up.

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Close enough for a barn....

 

 

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1 hour ago, avgwarhawk said:

I signed onto the  AACA Buick site to learn how to repair a Buick.  I instead learned how to frame a door!!!  This site has it all!!!!   God love it. :)

I just want him to hurry and finish that garage so he can show us how he stores and restores cars!;)

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15 minutes ago, old-tank said:

I just want him to hurry and finish that garage so he can show us how he stores and restores cars!;)

 

Knew that was comin....  you've seen how I store 'em, not a pretty sight. One thing at a time, I just have a problem with timing and priorities I reckon. Tanks for stoppin by though.

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I have finally caught up with the postI have been in the trade for 30 plus years,Looks awesome.How wide will your service door be?How wide?

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Thanks old car fan. The doors are right at 10'.

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3 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

It IS just a barn!  You trying to get into some fancy pants wood working mag?:P

 

Not really and since it is Buick related would rather hang out and share with my Buick buds, if they'll continue to put up with me.

 

 

OK, lets get these HAD's hung....

 

but first let's get that blue board insulation in them.

 

Flip them over and just like a puzzle, lay all the pieces in and tape them good to prevent air flow.

 

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But what do you do when your best laid plans fail and some of them don't fit. Just like any puzzle, trim them to fit. My sweet Rita came to rescue as she saw I was about to blow a fuse. 

 

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Install some temporary stops in the inside jams.

 

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Lean the doors in, install some temporary hold boards on the outside to keep the heavy #%^#*&%  from falling back on me and shim them all around. BTW Rita had taken care of the emergency, gotten cold and went back to the house by this task.

 

 

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Install the hinges with lag bolts. Checked Lowes and Tractor Supply. TS had the biggest and most beefiest. 3 to a door.

 

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Mark out for the bolt holes, predrill for the bolt and drill out for the fatter shank part  at the top of the bolt just below the head to prevent any chance of splitting the old pine and totally destroying the integrity of the bolts threads. 

 

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I also run the threads through adhesive before inserting.

 

 

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Install some radiant barrier

 

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Absolutely love this 3M foil tape. Can you tell?

 

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Had the metal roofing supplier fab up some rails to put on top of the door to prevent ANY chance of rain or water getting in at the top of the corrugated metal.

 

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A couple  more of the nice shiny radiant barrier on the back doors

 

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Then around to the front and do it all again.

 

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These doors will have some additional trim on the inside so will be heavier and will also be used more often as a driver will be parked just inside so I increased the number of hinges.

 

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Someone had asked earlier how I treat all the old nail holes in the old chicken house tin. Apply it from one side and let it bleed through to the other.

On the doors exterior, I cut about half the tit off with a razor knife

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And the rubber washer screws used on all the siding, roof and doors.

 

 

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Not finding any action shots of cladding the exterior with the corrugated tin. Basically just cleaned all the tin with a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid, cut to length and screw them up. Laying out the screw patterns was fun.

 

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And the front doors

 

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Lamar, this is great craftsmanship and I love those details like having metal made to finish off those edges and taping off and using the radiant barrier.  Those half-lap joints are very strong and I suspect that those along with the diagonal bead board and outer skin would have held those doors square from now on.  

 

I’m curious about why you didn’t rust up those hinges?  Also, did you try to bias the hinges so to take out any play in the hinge itself?  I would be scared that I’d get a quarter inch sag if I didn’t.

 

I know this stuff takes a lot of time but your finished project will be well worth it.

 

Oops, just saw your latest post.  Looks like you did use the acid on those hinges.

Edited by JoelsBuicks (see edit history)

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"bias the hinge"? not familiar with that term.

the hinges are pretty substantial. I had actually ordered some larger ones from a major hardware company to use but these were better made and really tight so felt confident that by using three on each of the back doors and 5 on the front door I would be ok. So far, after being up  for over a year, there is no sag, hopefully they will "hang in there"  at least as long as I'm hangin in there.  ;):)

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ooops, forgot the inside pictures of the doors. Not finding pics of them after trimming out and with securing sliding bolts and spring latches, will take some later. 

Once the interior of the garage is finished these will get a good wiping down with mineral spirits and a coat of shellac.

 

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Lamar, your workmanship is great, the doors turned out fantastic, HOWEVER, the question that is in everyone's mind who is following this is - How ya gonna keep critters out?  And you got things down there that we don't have out here in Doo Dah.

 

Terry Wiegand

Out Doo Dah Way

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Terry, 'bout the best I can answer that is "stay tuned" :P:D

 

but if they do get in, this full time resident will take care of them. :)IMG_0995_zpsb3549dc6.jpg

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and the French windows. Some $75 French doors from Lowes. I built them thinking I would have them hinged at the to and could be opened to help air flow but as of right now they are fixed and will likely stay that way.

Gawd, I'm gonna hate to stick air conditioners in those walls. But a split system to serve the office area separate of the garage area is not in the budget.

 

 

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5 minutes ago, JoelsBuicks said:

Eastern Kingsnake.  Great for the shop but can show up in some unexpected places at unexpected times.  

 

you got a point there. Better black than copper though.

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13 hours ago, MrEarl said:

 

you got a point there. Better black than copper though.

 

I'm a nervous wreck around them no matter what color they are. They make me want to go into kill mode. :o

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1 hour ago, Ronnie said:

 

I'm a nervous wreck around them no matter what color they are. They make me want to go into kill mode. :o

Careful,  they might sense it and go into the same mode to you, like dogs. 

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I worked on a farm one summer with Heckle and Jeckle, very large Black Rat snakes.  They kept the rodents out of the barn.  You just had to be careful not to trip over them.  There must have been a lot of rodents; they were large snakes.  Took a while to get used to them but once you realized they were harmless, they were just part of the farm. 

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On 2018-02-07 at 9:49 AM, RivNut said:

When I was in the mortgage loan business, I made a construction loan to a local builder.  I didn't see him for a while but he finally came limping in one day.  He told me that his cicular saw guard didn't close and the saw hit the ground, jumped and landed on his foot. He lost two toes.  

 

Listen to the wisdom of Mr. Earl!

 

Thats what steel-toed boots are for. 

 

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51 minutes ago, Thriller said:

 

Thats what steel-toed boots are for. 

 

The steel toes in this guys boots are what kept him from losing all of his toes.  I guess you're saying it's okay to ignore safety just because you're "properly outfitted."  ?  He lost the two smaller toes - starting in the middle of the foot.  Everybody listen up, it's official,  you can now ignore Mr. Earl's advice as long as you wear steel toed boots. 

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6 hours ago, RivNut said:

The steel toes in this guys boots are what kept him from losing all of his toes.  I guess you're saying it's okay to ignore safety just because you're "properly outfitted."  ?  He lost the two smaller toes - starting in the middle of the foot.  Everybody listen up, it's official,  you can now ignore Mr. Earl's advice as long as you wear steel toed boots. 

We have jobs at my plant that now require steel metatarsal guards in addition to steel toes for this reason. Talk about a heavy,  hot boot! 

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2 hours ago, wndsofchng06 said:

We have jobs at my plant that now require steel metatarsal guards in addition to steel toes for this reason. Talk about a heavy,  hot boot! 

If they are required who is responsible for buying them? Where I worked if the company required a safety item the company had to buy it.

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51 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

If they are required who is responsible for buying them? Where I worked if the company required a safety item the company had to buy it.

OSHA require us to provide an specialty PPE. So we buy the metatarsal guard shoes. Steel toes are not considered specialty,  but we do offer employees $100 annually towards their purchase.

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