NC1968Riviera

2nd Generation Rivi front brake cylinders

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ROA members only: I am selling two new, never used 2nd Generation set of Centric brand front wheel cylinders (part #'s 134.62032 & 33). 

 

$20 for the pair plus $8.00 postage to USA addresses only!

 

Payment by PayPal preferred. 

 

PM me if interested. 

 

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Edited by NC1968Riviera (see edit history)
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Curious...was an aftermarket aluminum version ever produced for the rears?

 

 

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1 hour ago, PWB said:

 

Curious...was an aftermarket aluminum version ever produced for the rears?

 

 

No. But with the right parts and some machine work, you can put front aluminum drums on the rear.  And no, a front drum was never reproduced.  Look in the classifieds in the Riview for a company that can put new iron liners in your drums.

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, PWB said:

 

Curious...was an aftermarket aluminum version ever produced for the rears?

 

 

Not that I am aware of.

There are several sets of used front aluminum drums for sale on Ebay right now but it is buyer beware as to whether or not they have enough of the iron linings left to be useful. 

 

As Ed already stated, there is a company that advertises in the 'Riview' [https://www.jgrelining.com] for relining aluminum drums. i called them and they are not cheap. Sometimes they have relined drums for sale. You have to know how many "fins" are on your drums because they will ask you which version you  need.

 

Per a conversation I had with the shop owner, Don Booker: "Hey Mike, I only know of them as 45 Fin or 90 Fin?? We do have both types of drum used on the self, we also have some 45 fin drums done and ready for shipment. I just sold my last pair of 90 fins drums that were done.

To reline/refurbish the used drums would run about $305.00 ea. [Emphasis is mine] Our turn around time is about 6 weeks.
Thanks
Don"
Edited by NCRiviera (see edit history)
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All first generation drums are the 45 fin variety.  The 90 fin variety came on the scene in 1966 (or so says a couple of hits on Google.)

 

Ed

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The aluminum front drums were bigger (...wider shoes), than the .cast iron rear drums, but the bolt pattern was the same.

To put aluminum fronts on the rear you had to change the brake shoes - same diameters, but different widths, and remove the heavy centre hub.

Since most of the braking was on the front drums, something like 60/40 - there was little advantage to swapping the rear cast iron drums, other than esthetics. :)

Edited by 68RIVGS (see edit history)
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- And 20 pounds

 

But who's counting?

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Both front & rears are 12". The diff. is the width of the shoes. @ 2 1/4" front & 2" rear. At more than 20+ pds. of UN-SPRUNG weight makes a diff. in 60ft. times & dissipates heat better. Weigh the rear drums, then measure the fronts WITHOUT the hubs. It's definitely MORE than 20 pds. Of course I have discs on front & an adjustable proportioning valve for the rear. Try using forged aluminum wheels in place of stock steel wheels & see the diff. un-sprung weight makes in the ride & handling dept. You won't believe the diff. It's like driving a diff. vehicle!!!

Just my thoughts.

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Love it.

I'll just throw my spare and jack out. Ride on half a tank. That's equivalent to the weight of my first date.

 

Let my new posi do some work for once.

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Tom T. told me some time ago how to mount the wider drums and shoes on the rear axle of my 64.  I've not done it - yet - but I collected the parts necessary.  Those parts are the rear backing plates from a mid 50's Buick.  The profile of those backing plates allow you to install the wider shoes.  Remove the aluminum drum from the hubs by getting eid of the rivets then you'll need to turn down a lip on the aluminum drum.  When I get around to doing this, I'll take pictures and post them.  The hardest part is findind the 60 year old backing plates.

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1 hour ago, RivNut said:

Tom T. told me some time ago how to mount the wider drums and shoes on the rear axle of my 64.  I've not done it - yet - but I collected the parts necessary.  Those parts are the rear backing plates from a mid 50's Buick.  The profile of those backing plates allow you to install the wider shoes.  Remove the aluminum drum from the hubs by getting eid of the rivets then you'll need to turn down a lip on the aluminum drum.  When I get around to doing this, I'll take pictures and post them.  The hardest part is findind the 60 year old backing plates.

A project worthy of Hot Rod Mag and the Review.

 

Incentive for my back burner projects and all reversible.  Time to start my own collection.

 

Look forward to more. Thanks Mr. Ed and all chiming in. :)

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Ed decided to change his backing plates. I DID NOT when I did mine. I used the ORIGINALS.

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