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1925- 1927 Buick wood kits made


sligermachine
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Hi Kyle,  

     We are glad that you found that can of oil and were able to lubricate the hinge on your laptop.  We do miss communicating with you and hope you are well.  The water pump shaft that you made for me is still working great.    Hugh

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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Ken,  

Kyle is sligermachine.  He started this topic on wooden kits for 25 to 27 Buicks in 2017.  We have not heard from him for quite a while, so it is good to see him back on the Forum.  Any enquiries you have on your 28,  it is a good idea to start under a new Topic.

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  • 9 months later...

Hi Jim

Welcome to 20's Buick ownership !  Believe this or not, your car has more wood remaining than some of our cars had (like mine) to use for patterns. 

There are lots of options to consider before starting any work on this car.  Wood kits are not made to my knowledge for Buick Fisher bodied closed cars like this one.   There are guys that will make new wood for the car, but the cost of this wood plus other restoration costs will be more than the car is worth when completed.   If you plan to make a hot rod, the wood replacement solution is typically to align the sheetmetal pieces and weld in tube steel as needed to hold the body together.  The top can be either covered with new sheetmetal or just the upper top wood can be made to support an original type fabric top. 

Any running gear parts can be sold off to other restorers.  The body could also be moved to a newer hot rod chassis instead of trying to modify the old frame to accept new running gear attachment points.  Some hot rod conversions only use the old body, which leaves the original chassis-hood-fenders to be made into a speedster with racing type home made body. 

Bottom line here is how much time and money do you have for a project car ?  Restoring one of these old Buicks can be a long term project. My Buick has been an on and off again project for about 38 years now, and I still have not driven it yet. 

Look through all the half finished hot rod projects on craigslist. There are a lot of them. Often someone begins a project without realizing just how much time and money is required. 

Just a few things to think over. 

Kevin 

Edited by Oregon Desert model 45
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Thank you for the insights. I have purchased and restored about 14 cars. I do know the cost and time problem. I am currently working on a 51 Studebaker and have a 53 Studebaker waiting. A long time friend needed to get rid of the cars. I guess I was the logical one to sell too. I have the 27 Chevy on a different thread. Not interested in spending a lot on them May resell them but I would like to play around with them. I have a complete Studebaker drivetrain that would not cost much. Are there parts available for these cars?

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Some parts are available but they are not inexpensive.  The fiber timing for example, is now about $100 more expensive than last time I checked price !  This is not like Model A Ford where you can shop 4 or more different online vendor websites for any moving part that wears and needs replaced. 

Kevin

timing gear.jpg

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Jim, 

   There are no kits for wood or the upholstery or the top.  I don't know how bad the wood is in the lower section of the car.  The wood in the upper section is easier to replace.  I am not noticing a lot of rust in the lower section of the body but there are repairs that can be made here as well without replacing all the wood.  This is Bob Bitowski's 1927 Buick Master near Dallas TX.   These photos show a not too difficult to build roof structure.  Difficulty is based upon your skill level, but you have restored enough cars that you may just need access to a few wood working tools.  Also attached are notes regarding getting the engine started.  If you take this project on there is good support, and that is what you really need.  Keep in mind that if you just want an easy restoration, buy a Ford Model A.  Tons of parts, etc.  If you want a unique car that is not seen very often and has a lot of presence, these old Buicks are very rewarding.          Hugh

 

https://forums.aaca.org/topic/317697-1927-buick-standard-2727/?tab=comments#comment-1802402

 

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Great information and many thanks. I have found whether it be a Nash metropolitan, Studebaker, and other forms that everyone has been very helpful. I am not one to go really after the basic everyone car. That’s why I have done metropolitans, Plymouth pick ups, studebaker‘s, Renault, volvos. I am not a master mechanic or master rebuilder by any means. I am usually the two steps forward one step back type of restore where I am more of a shade tree mechanic guy. I was not looking really for an antique car restore but with them coming to me I thought it would least be fun to get them running and drivable.Any information of where I can get the parts right now for drivability would be great. Brake components drive line components. Is there a good test to find out if those spoked wheels are still usable?

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Sorry also, I did not mean to hijack this thread. I have threads in the New to Buick, and prewar Buick. I also have a thread in the prewar Chevrolet. Since I also picked up a 27 Chevy with the Buick.

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Jim, 

   Read thru my link on how to safely get the engine to turn over and run without ruining the timing gear.  The most value you will gain is getting the motor to run and the car to roll.  You can feed it from a lawnmower gas tank.  Do remove the water pump and ensure the water pump will turn before attempting to turn the motor.  The brakes are all mechanical and the band lining material may still be adequate for a first drive.  Change all the fluids.  

Resist the urge to buy new tires at this time.  Maybe a few new tubes if necessary.  There are some used tires out there. OK to have flat spots at this time as long as they hold air.  Jack up the car and shake the wheels and see if the spokes feel loose or solid.  

You will need to go thru the carburetor.  

Looks like someone already made a temporary door handle with the rope at the top of the door.

Hugh  

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Any words of wisdom on the transmission and clutch? Rearend? I want to limit damage. I am in no hurry so I can do this correctly. I had a 53 Plymouth Suburban that sat in the desert of Tucson for 30 years. We got it to start up but I did not have the patience I needed and the rings stuck and it smoked heavily. I am assuming this is 6 volt. Positive or negative ground?   I have a spare 6 volt battery charged up. 

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You have a filter on your engine, I do not.  I like Shell Rotella T-4 or Chevron Delo 400 LE.  Any oil is better than the oils in the 20's so your call.

For the transmission my suggestion is 60% Lucas 80/90 gear oil and 40% Lucas Stabilizer.  This is what I run in my transmission and you can get this at Walmart even.   Lots of notes on the internet about  using a 50/50 blend as the replacement for the original heavy oil called 600W.   I find my car shifts better than when I used 600W.

For the rear axle.  I like the M533 from Snyders better than the 600W brown muck that I have bought from other Early Ford vendors.  You can also use a blend of the Lucas as described above for the rear axle, but I thought the ratio could be closer to 25/75, but I don't recall which proportion and then it is very common to see the 600W referred to as a 50/50 Lucas blend.  50/50 would protect all the components and should still be thick enough to not leak out.    

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 12/5/2017 at 7:14 AM, Hubert_25-25 said:

Kyle, 

      I made full size drawings of almost all the wood pieces in my 1925 Buick Standard.  I laid the wood pieces on Paper * use white Paper* traced them where I could, including all the holes, and then I added dimensions in case something happened in the photocopy process.  I bought a roll of 36 inch wide Velum paper, and cut it every 24 inches.  24 x 36 inch is the size that can be reasonably reproduced at an Office Supply store like Office Max.  I wanted people globally to be able to make local full size copies.  For pieces that would not fit on a page, I made match lines so that each piece could still be copied full size, then laid out on a piece of wood easier.  

It would cost a fair amount just to ship the wood globally, even shipping drawings is fairly expensive.  If someone needs the files, I can ship a USB drive with all the files for the cost of a postage stamp.  The USB is about $5.  Then they can print the files for the wood pieces that they want to fabricate.  

My wood covers 1925/26/27 Standard Touring (Model 25).  It also makes a good set of drawings for the other cars to help people understand the wood building concepts that Buick used.    Below is a photo of the wood I have drawn.  I also have photos from multiple angles to help people understand what each piece looks like.  Then there are the assembly photos.  No end to the fun!

I do not believe that there are any Master wood drawings for any models.

Hugh

IMG_5717.thumb.JPG.5b5a7852bf8e1c2fbb735b1b1b27b46d.JPG

5a26384f52e79_wallwood1.thumb.JPG.8d117d72c779d031ce0a4952f6045410.JPG

 Have a Buick 1926-25X, and would love to have a copy, still possibel to get one?

Liv in Norway!

3003.jpg

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I have moved my wood drawings to google drive and I can provide access with an email address.  This information should be done by PM.  This AACA forum only holds .jpg files and the wood files are .pdf   I need to find a website that will hold and allow me to share .pdf files.   

 

Hugh

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Posted (edited)

I have been able to add my full size 1925 Buick Standard Touring wood drawings to the Prewar Buick Registry on the Brass Buicks website.  There are 6 postings that these are in.  Hugh

 

https://brassbuicks.groups.io/g/PBR/topic/1925_buick_standard_touring/82615581?p=,,,20,0,0,0::recentpostdate%2Fsticky,,,20,2,0,82615581

Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)
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