jimtash Posted November 26, 2017 Posted November 26, 2017 One of the steel brake tubes on my '63 decided to burst and so a completely new set of lines has been ordered. The one that runs along the frame apparently has been replaced before and it runs inside the frame and exits at the rear. Looking at the manual though is seems that line is supposed to run outside of the frame and is held on by straps. How should it go on?
1965rivgs Posted November 26, 2017 Posted November 26, 2017 It goes thru the frame. This line and the rear axle line are the lines which typically rust thru. Tom Mooney
jimtash Posted November 26, 2017 Author Posted November 26, 2017 Thanks. The one that rusted and burst is the front tube that runs across the front frame from side to side. Right at the strap in the center. Has anyone used DOT5 instead of 3 brake fluid? Since it's silicone based and won't attract water, I'd like to use it instead of 3.
steelman Posted November 26, 2017 Posted November 26, 2017 Keep in mind DOT 5 will not mix with any other brake fluid. Not 3 and not 4. System must be completely bled of the old fluid. If you decide to change, I would recommend a power bleed of the system. If you are going this far, I would also replace the three soft lines and all the wheel cylinders before going with this change.
telriv Posted November 26, 2017 Posted November 26, 2017 The problem I've noticed with dot5 is that it's SO slippery that no matter what the w/cyl. & m/cyl. leaks & fluid needs to be checked more often.
jimtash Posted November 27, 2017 Author Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) Car has been sitting in storage for a couple of years now hence the rusted out tube. Brake fluid looks like crap. One good thing though is it still starts and everything works except the brakes. Carb is clean but I did have to replace the fuel pump. Already have new cylinders on the back and front ones along with brake hoses and tubes are on order. That's why I was thinking of changing over to DOT5. Or just stay with DOT3 and change it every few years. Edited November 27, 2017 by jimtash (see edit history)
petelempert Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 If you decide to replace the old line that goes thru the the frame...wait until you get the replacement line before you pull the old line out. Disconnect the old line at both ends, duct tape the end of the new line to the back of the old one and then pull the old line out. It will drag the new line into the exact position. Worked for me. PRL 3
rodneybeauchamp Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 6 hours ago, petelempert said: If you decide to replace the old line that goes thru the the frame...wait until you get the replacement line before you pull the old line out. Disconnect the old line at both ends, duct tape the end of the new line to the back of the old one and then pull the old line out. It will drag the new line into the exact position. Worked for me. PRL Or or tie a stout piece of cord to the old one and pull it through the frame as the old one comes out. When you have the new one made up, use the cord to pull it back in. Tape off each end to stop any dirt or grease getting in the pipe as it gets pulled through. Best if you use a helper who knows what they are doing. I did (I think) ??? Having another set of hands to feed it through is almost a must. And before you pull it, make a note of which side of the park brake cable it goes. 1
SwedeDownUnderR63 Posted November 27, 2017 Posted November 27, 2017 (edited) Jim, I don’t know what you ordered but I went for stainless steel lines from https://www.inlinetube.com/ and they fit nicely on my 1963. Looking forward to see what you went for and how it fit. I also had a helping hand which made the installation so much easier. I selected stainless as the price difference was so small and, although it is unlikely to fail again in my life time, I hope that one of my children will pick up my hobby. I also changed the hoses at the same time and went with DOT4 as I love to drive the car as often as possible and don’t mind changing the brake fluid. Edited November 28, 2017 by SwedeDownUnderR63 (see edit history)
KongaMan Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 As another (cheaper) option for brake lines, you can buy NiCopp tubing and make your own. Aside from cost, other advantages are that you can bend it by hand without tools and it will not rust. You can buy a kit that includes enough line, connectors, and wrap to replace every 3/16" line in the car for ~$35. The only other thing you would need is a flaring tool from your local jobber's rental bin.
lrlforfun Posted November 28, 2017 Posted November 28, 2017 OK Riviera People: I not a brake line set from Classic Tube. Excellent!! Remember, the brake system is ONLY AS STRONG AS IT'S WEAKEST LINK! Replace every hydraulic component. Not that expensive. Get the emergency brake operating flawlessly. Stop on a dime give 9 cents change. Mitch
jimtash Posted November 28, 2017 Author Posted November 28, 2017 (edited) 7 hours ago, SwedeDownUnderR63 said: Jim, I don’t know what you ordered but I went for stainless steel lines from https://www.inlinetube.com/ and they fit nicely on my 1963. Looking forward to see what you went for and how it fit. I also had a helping hand which made the installation so much easier. I selected stainless as the price difference was so small and, although it is unlikely to fail again in my life time, I hope that one of my children will pick up my hobby. I also changed the hoses at the same time and went with DOT4 as I love to drive the car as often as possible and don’t mind changing the brake fluid. I ordered the exact same lines from Inline Tube. I also bought a can of Bosch brake fluid at Autozone yesterday. It supposed to last 100% longer than regular DOT3. Edited November 28, 2017 by jimtash (see edit history) 1
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