How to stop Rust on unprimed Car in garage .

[Mark Gregory]

I bought my 1931 Reo Royale Victoria a few years ago in S.C. and brought it up to Toronto . I used the complete garage to rebuild my wood structure and I am still doing more work now . After many complaints on a regular daily basis from my dear wife . She wants me to move the car to one side of the double garage . So she place her car in the garage . The trouble is the car was completely stripped of paint to bare metal by the previous owner . 

 

Toronto gets very cold moist days in the winter . So when I bring the daily driver in the garage it is going to be cold and wet . Beside my unprimed Reo .

 

Should I rub a light oil on the metal or cover it with a tarp to keep the moisture out ? Some suggested I use a Krown product but I am worried , as it might affect the painting down the road .

[JFranklin]

I use a product called OSPHO it converts rust and prevents further rusting. It is made to be painted over.

[Frank DuVal]

Move to the west coast....

 

I would paint all exposed steel (inside and outside surfaces, anything you can see) with epoxy primer. Yes, it will need to be removed in spots if welding to it, but you can work body plastic over it and primer & paint right over it. It will keep the rust at bay even after the car is painted.

 

Any oil or other non-paint able substance will just cause problems later, like fish eyes.

 

Ospho has many users, but once I went to epoxy primer over bare steel, I had less problems.

[Spinneyhill]

Sounds like phosphoric acid. It will protect it for a short while. Dehumidifier might be useful? The car will be pretty rusty by now?

[1937hd45]

GIBBS oil is what you want to put on the bare steel. Check out a few projects on the HAMB that have used it. Wash it with lacquer thinner when it is time to paint it.

 

Bob 

[Guest]

Metal starts to oxidize the moment it is bare that is why it should be painted with one of the above products immediately it is stripped.

[JFranklin]

OSPHO is best for unprimed body metal. I use it for long term storage = years. Just give it a wash with another ospho treatment and let dry before painting. Or prime your parts as stated.

[60FlatTop]

Have you had the wife longer than you have had the REO?

 

Just from a pragmatic perspective.

Bernie

[Matt Harwood]

I use Picklex-20. It will prevent flash rust on bare metal parts and you can paint over it. It also destroys micro-rust that you can't see and can't be removed by sand blasting or scraping. Just scuff it and it's ready to prime. DO NOT USE OIL! You will never, ever get paint to stick to it properly again. Imagine you've just finished your expensive new $20,000 paint job and it starts to come undone. NO OIL.

[Restorer32]

We painted a '47 Buick conv. Followed our usual procedure. Car was delivered to us in bare steel. We cleaned it up carefully and sprayed it. Fish eyes everywhere. Customer swore he used no silicon anywhere near the car. Cleaned it up again being very carefuel to get every area as clean as possible. To make a long and expensive story short turned out the owner had stripped and bead blasted every piece of the car he could handle then stored the parts, fenders, hood, trunk lid in black plastic trash bags opened up and duct taped together to handle the larger parts. Guess what is used as a mold release in the manufacure of trash bags? Silicon.

[39BuickEight]

We just primed my car and removed as needed for additional work.

[Frank DuVal]

Billy, removed what product?

[60FlatTop]

Polyurethane primer can be applied with a 4" roller quite easily and doesn't require a lot of equipment. I am planning a complete repaint on my '64 Riviera and it will probably be primed using a combination of spray. roller, and foam brush, depending on where I am in the progress and the time I have at the moment.

 

My convertible has a protective coat of primer on the third brakelight panel. I have a gallon of this: https://www.tat-co.com/TranstarAutobodyTechnologies/media/TATCo/Product Assets/English Datasheets/transtar_tds_6461.pdf?ext=.pdf

and just mix a few ounces for small jobs, but there is a 4" roller handle and a pack foam rollers if I get to a big panel.

 

You will get a lot of nasty looks from "experts" so don't tell them you did it. I do most of my work alone with the door closed. Just catch a nice day and in a couple hours you will be good to go.

Bernie

Edited November 22, 2017 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

2 hours ago, Restorer32 said:

To make a long and expensive story short turned out the owner had stripped and bead blasted every piece of the car he could handle then stored the parts, fenders, hood, trunk lid in black plastic trash bags opened up and duct taped together to handle the larger parts.

 

Did he get that idea from an online forum? I'd NEVER take advice from the guys who post things on those.

 

"Nice machine. What's the baud rate?"

 

 

[39BuickEight]

21 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

Billy, removed what product?

 

The primer.  I primed it all, and as I worked around the car and needed to weld or something, I just ground it back off, that way the sheet metal awaiting work would not rust from exposure.    I just use rustoleum auto primer.  We have used it on several projects/restorations over the past 25 years and it works great.  Just the 3rdstep (after blasting and cleaning) in a many step process.   Keeps the bare metal from rusting.  I know the thread title indicates an unprimed car, but I prefer to prime it and simply remove and redo as I work around the car.

 

this stuff:

 

Edited November 23, 2017 by 39BuickEight (see edit history)

[Restorer32]

It's "primered"  not "primed". "We primered the car by spraying primer".  So ends the lesson for today. 

[Bhigdog]

4 hours ago, Restorer32 said:

It's "primered"  not "primed". "We primered the car by spraying primer".  So ends the lesson for today. 

 

Err,..........ahh............. Say, teach....... Neither my dictionary or Google can provide a definition for "primered".  It appears to be a non word. Will this be on tomorrows quiz?........Bob                

[Matt Harwood]

Couldn't "primer" be "that which primes [a surface for paint]?"

 

And with that in mind, couldn't "priming" be "the act of applying that which primes a surface for paint?"

 

That which cools your beer can be called a "cooler" but the act of cooling your beer isn't "coolering."

 

/English major

[SC38dls]

I thought this forum was for old car discussions. I can get grammar and spelling corrections (and often do) from my wife, an ex-teacher. 

Back to the subject of the thread, please. 

Edited November 23, 2017 by SC38DLS (see edit history)

[Frank DuVal]

Merriam Webster says Primed! It even lists first coat of paint in the same definition.

 

Also, the Oxford Dictionary online uses primed in the example sentences for prime.

 

On a related note, I have never primered a pump.....

Edited November 23, 2017 by Frank DuVal
Added Oxford reference (see edit history)

[Matt Harwood]

OK, guys, stop having fun on this hobby website. We need to be serious. What's wrong with you people, anyway?

 

So back to the thread at hand. Use chemicals designed to protect bare metal to protect bare metal. Don't use oil or silicone or toothpaste.

[Frank DuVal]

I agree! Use epoxy primer to keep rust off bare steel. Easy to deal with during the repair process, since it does not need to be removed except for welding.

 

Bernie, I see the 6464  6447 primers have been discontinued by Transtar.   I have used Transtar products and have been satisfied with the ones I used. I need a thumbs up icon here.

[SC38dls]

Matt use toothpaste at least once a day, please 

[Bhigdog]

1 hour ago, SC38DLS said:

I thought this forum was for old car discussions. I can get grammar and spelling corrections (and often do) from my wife, an ex-teacher. 

Back to the subject of the thread, please. 

 

Actually it's not about grammar and/or spelling. It's about using the correct terms when having discussions with others in the hobby or trades persons who may be working on your old car. Most would think that has some importance.

The comments were very much in keeping with the subject of the thread.

 

22 minutes ago, SC38DLS said:

Matt use toothpaste at least once a day, please 

 

Commenting on another's oral hygiene  likely is not..................................Bob

[kgreen]

Primer is not a moisture resistant coating.  It is used to prep a surface for eventual painting.  Eventual may be a specific time frame as well.  Epoxy primer is a moisture resistant coating and a prep for eventual painting.  It must be applied to bare, properly treated metal.  If a car was "primed" it is likely to develop rust from moisture condensing on the primered (sp) surface.  An epoxy coated car will hold up for months or longer even if moisture condenses on the metal surface.

[jdome]

38 minutes ago, kgreen said:

Primer is not a moisture resistant coating.  It is used to prep a surface for eventual painting.  Eventual may be a specific time frame as well.  Epoxy primer is a moisture resistant coating and a prep for eventual painting.  It must be applied to bare, properly treated metal.  If a car was "primed" it is likely to develop rust from moisture condensing on the primered (sp) surface.  An epoxy coated car will hold up for months or longer even if moisture condenses on the metal surface.

Not necessarily so if the epoxy has been sanded or scuffed it will absorb moisture & oils including fingerprints. But I agree that a coat of primer, preferably epoxy, is your best bet. Leave it skinned over. 

[SC38dls]

Matt, Bob excuse me if I have offended you by being sarcastic. 

 

[60FlatTop]

I had an idea that gallon of primer had been around for a while. The last little job I did looked good, but maybe I will treat myself to a new gallon of PPG 2K urethane. I think those primers will give a closed coat and protect against moisture. I am sure the epoxy primers will.

 

My contribution is the idea you can just brush it on an do a little or a lot without making a big deal.

 

I do have a policy about correcting literary skills. If I understand the context of what someone tells me, they did the job. Why would I correct them?

 

A handwriting expert analyzed my  signature once, they said it showed me to be an extremely confident person. I guess my expectations of the reader were high. Sometimes one will lean over and ask "Is that an a". I answer "Yes", seems like that always get the right letter.

 

Prime it with a a brush or a roller if you want a quick protective coat. If you have other intentions prime it with gasoline.      Hmmmmmmmm, have you ever read Dissertation on Roast Pork  ?

 

Happy Thanksgiving!

[Janousek]

Epoxy primer would be the best solution but in order to do it right you would basically be prepping the metal for paint.  Epoxy is the only primer that seals the metal and doesn't have to be top coated.  Urethane 2k's are filler products not designed to adhere to bare metal,  and self etching primers are just a strike coat to allow the topcoat to stick.  Think laquer primer with an etching agent which is junk by today's epoxy standards.   The best alternative to epoxy would be some the rust oleum spray bombs list above.  Just cover the metal to somewhat protect it and plan to completely remove it before prepping for epoxy at a further date.  

 

Metal is porous so anyone putting oil over the metal is asking for disaster.   Never used Ospho but I've heard it works if neutralized correctly. "If" is stressed because it will ruin a paint  job if not done correctly as it's an acid based product that I always avoid.    Never wipe laquer thinner on the metal as it leaves an unseen residue plus most laquer thinners available today are recycled solvents and have bad stuff in the mix.  Lots of good waterborne and solvent based products available at a body shop supply.  I recommend both types as each has it's advantages to clean the metal.    Don't mineral spirits, naptha, laquer thinner, etc...