Has anyone Rebuilt a 1930's Car Wood Framed Door

[Mark Gregory]

I am starting to work on my front doors on my Reo Royale Victoria . I guess where ever this car was stored . The water liked to rot off the bottom 10 inches of wood around the complete car . So I have two doors I am trying to take a part to replace the wood . Any suggestions on how this was assembled . As all the wood screws come from behind the door skin . I can not access the wood screws because of this installation . The door wood frame is tucked under the angled - rolled door skin . So something has to be cut out to get one piece of wood to be removable . Any pointers appreciated . The previous owner did some wood repair but it is not properly done . I want to redo the work .

Edited November 16, 2017 by Mark Gregory (see edit history)

[Bloo]

You will probably have to change some things to get the wood in.

 

Who made the Reo bodies, Reo? I am working on a Pontiac (Fisher) and I am told they assembled the wooden doors on jigs, nailed the metal covering around the jamb areas, and then crimped the skin on last. On cars in the late 20s and early 30s, Fisher had you drilling holes to access screws and then patching afterward with steel and lead.

 

Uncrimping the skin is inadvisable. Some people advocate splitting the corners of the jamb area open, and then tacking that back together afterward.

 

Are you going to remove all the wood? Fisher allowed splicing some parts with splines. They said to never splice a lock pillar but I think I am gonna do it anyway, probably with biscuits, as that will have more strength than Fisher's method. In theory this will save me from splitting the corners. I will probably have to build a tool to do it, as there is not room to get a biscuit joiner in there.

 

I have made the bottom boards, and started on the curved portion of the hinge pillar (I am working on back doors). This project got shelved last spring , but I hope to start again soon. I am mostly gathering information at this point. Let us know what you come up with.

Edited November 16, 2017 by Bloo (see edit history)

[keiser31]

Maybe this book would help you....

[mikewest]

Is the bottom of the door skin bad as well?? If so cut the bottom of the skin off high enough to remove all the cancer. Then you will access to the wood. Originally the bottom of the door framing had a flat steel plate screwed to the outside of the wood and the skin bottom was flanged over the metal. Its not too bad of a fix. The way I look at problems like this is the door isn't any good like it is so carefully take it apart and make the repairs . Do only one door at a time.

[keiser31]

Here's one....https://www.ebay.com/itm/1931-FACTORY-ORIGINAL-Fisher-Body-Service-Manual/112636767762?hash=item1a39acae12:g:7XwAAOSwFyhZ6isr&vxp=mtr

[Bloo]

Several Fisher manuals are online here, including the 26-31 edition :

 

http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/

 

[keiser31]

The door....

[Mark Gregory]

Thanks for all the replies . John thanks for posting the pictures . Mike from what i can gather there is no steel plate there . Like I mentioned before the previous owner took it apart and did some repairs . Bloo never in a million years would I have though that the door was manufactured in the way you mentioned .I thought Murray bodies had the wood parts made and slipped it inside the skin and angles . One good point is there was some wood glue still attaching the frame together and it was still in good shape after 86 years . Even with all that rain and snow running down on top of it .

I am going to study the construction of the door a little more before I cut or take anything apart . I am hesitant to meddle with the door skin crimping .Thanks for the leads of the Fisher Body books also .

[Restorer32]

Folks are almost always shocked at the cost to rewood an antique car until they understand how complicated and non intuitive it actually is. The tip off is when a potential customer asks "What would it cost to put new wood in my car?" You don't put wood into a car. You assemble the wood then attach the sheet metal. Yes, it is aggravating.

[Restorer32]

The "steel plates" which are attached to the wood and over which the door skin is flanged are actually only 16 or maybe 18 gauge sheet steel. To call them "plates" might be misleading. Rumble or trunk lids are mounted in the same fashion. The wood is assembled, sheet metal pieces that define the final shape of the sheet metal are attached and the body sheet metal is put in place (usually the most difficult part) and the flanges are folded over, usually with a dolly and body hammer.

[mikewest]

Well said!  and CORRECT!

[Tim Wolfe]

There is a man about 3 miles from me who restores Chrysler wood bodied cars and does award winning work. His name is Steve Glazier  3720 Loramie Washington Road, Houston, Ohio 45333 937-492-7355.  Just saw him and a Chrysler wagon he restored at the Dayton Concours show in Dayton, Ohio.  The car won!