1937mod44

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I'm just finishing restoring a 37 Buick Special. It is stock down to the 6 volt electrical.  I've noticed that the starter seems to struggle turning the engine over. I  had the starter checked out at a reputable place before I  installed it.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Larry

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What gauge battery cables are you using?   Size 00 is recommended for my Packard.

Good Luck

Mark

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You've got numerous possibilities here (too small battery cables is a good one)...

"Just restored"===engine, too?? if so, maybe you set it up a bit tight???

Did you paint it?? paint where the starter mounts??  if so, maybe lessened ground connection??

Starter struggles when hot or all the time, cold too???

Rewired or unhooked wiring??? All connections clean, snug??? and on and on...(it's late here)

 

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Thanks Bud. The engine was rebuit and painted. The starter has a ground strap to the chassis to ensure a good ground. I will need to check the size of the cable from the battery to the starter. The wiring harness was rebuilt due to the age of the original and upsized 1 wire size.

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Be sure your timing is not advanced too far.  Use the biggest cable you can find.  Also, how is the battery grounded - to the engine or chassis?  Might want to have a redundant path there as well.  (the paint thing again!)

 

Good luck,

Jeff

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Larry, welcome

   The battery cables for six volt should be at least as large as your thumb.  Double Aught [ 00 ] is good. The smaller 12V battery cables cannot carry enough amps. Pictures of your Buick?

 

  Ben

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Jeff, the battery is groumded to the chassis. Bare metal. The starter is grounded to the chassis. Again bare metal. Numerous body to chassis grounds 

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When the starter was "checked", did they say in so many words that it was checked under load???...starters can perform well with a worn engine, but be a bit overloaded with new rings/higher compression etc.....

Does it have a removable band for inspection of commutator, brush condition, spring tension, etc, or are you certain all this was "checked"???

You should be making a list of all the things you've checked, just for your own convenience,; sometimes reviewing the list will  jog your memory as to something you haven't already thought to check..

You didn't define "struggling"---we're all probably assuming you mean slower engine turning over than before rebuilding...

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Bud, the starter does have a band on it. The company I took it to is in the starter/alternator business so I am hoping they ran it through it's paces. The rebuilt engine hasn't run in 50 years. The struggling is definitely slower than any engine turnover I've ever seen other than with a dead battery. This battery in brand new.

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Less likely, perhaps, but I 've seen ground cables look perfect, but still have internal resistance in them. Do any of the cables feel warm, or even hot, after cranking for a bit? Your '37 looks gorgeous! I love that color and I love the flat back body.

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Ground straps (braided cables) come in different sizes also. What size in AWG are the engine and battery ground straps? If you bunched them up, would it be about 1/2" in diameter?

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6 hours ago, jeff said:

Be sure your timing is not advanced too far

 

Check this at least 10 times in every imaginable situation. Then check it some more. Be sure that thin piece of cork under the breaker plate is lubed. 

 

The starter was not "put through its paces" if you are thinking it went into a torque measuring device that might be pictured in old manuals. The shops don't do that anymore.

 

How does the engine spin without spark plugs?

 

How much torque is required to turn it with a torque wrench on the damper nut?

 

The engine was rebuilt and then left to sit for 50 years? Did you take the head off to look for rust build up on the cylinder walls? That is a big mass of cast iron and will condense a lot of water out of the air over the years. Was there much water in the bottom of the pan?

 

Just thinking of what I would check.

Bernie

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1937mod44,

 

Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. If you have any other questions, you may wish to consider posting them down in the Buick PreWar Section of the Forum. There are lots of pre-war Buick guys who are more likely to see posts there. 

 

I would also like to invite you to check out the 36-38 Buick Club at http://www.3638buickclub.org/. Hopefully you will consider joining that club. If you would be interested in sending me a story about your car's restoration along with some good photos, I am sure that the members of the club would love to read about your restoration in the Torque Tube II. Please let me know if you have any questions that I can help you with in regards to the club.

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19 hours ago, 1937mod44 said:

Thanks Ben.

20170903_144314.jpg

Larry, those slant-backs are the best sedans out there. I`d like to know the name/number of the paint color on your car, and what brand. Also is it base/clear? Urethane?   Tom

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When you have all the correct size cables and you think all of the connections are whistle clean there is one more. The grounding brushes in the starter. have built up corrosion.  

Starter Motor Grounding FIX1.JPG

Starter Motor Grounding FIX2.JPG

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3 hours ago, pont35cpe said:

Larry, those slant-backs are the best sedans out there. I`d like to know the name/number of the paint color on your car, and what brand. Also is it base/clear? Urethane?   Tom

Tom, the paint number is 506.  It's called Windser Grey.  The closest paint match I could get was  Dupont Chroma Premier code MM351.  It is a base/clear application

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