1928 Buick Master removal of starting crankshaft cap

[dracenroc]

Is there trick or special movement to remove the crankshaft cap?

I can pull it forward feeling the force of the spring but it will not come off.

 

Should I use some more force? I don't wan't to break something...

[Leif Holmberg]

 It looks that you need more force.This`s how the "cap" looks.

Leif in Sweden.

[Hubert_25-25]

Push it in 1/4" and rotate it Counter Clock Wise, and then you can pull it off.

[dracenroc]

No chance, the thing is stucked. May be bent or having some dents jamming it. Mine looks not that nice as the one from the parts book

[Leif Holmberg]

This`s how it looks inside.

Leif in Sweden.

[dracenroc]

Thank you, that helps!

 

I'm wondering why I can feel the backpressure of the spring. The cap must therefor be jammed somewhere at the engine side pressing the spring together when I pull it. I can turn the cap almost free, feeling a light resistance. It seem like the whole spring turns, like clipped to the cap.

[Leif Holmberg]

Maybe "welded" or rivets here on this washer?

Leif in Sweden.

[dracenroc]

I can pull it forward to see the shaft. I cannot see the spring but I can feel the resistance while pulling. Installing a bearing puller and trying to pull with a sledge hammer didn't work either. What came out is something like a greased thread in several pieces...?

Either I leave it in place or I cut it open and look for a spare.

[Leif Holmberg]

Cut it off on the length,it`s brass? and you can weld it together again.?

Leif in Sweden

[Hubert_25-25]

If you are able to see the shaft, then you are past the crankcase cap pin that holds the crankshaft cap in place.  It may also be stuck to the seal cap, and that is pushed toward the cotter pin and collapsing the spring.  The drive pin is the widest part past that point.  Maybe you can squeeze the tube so it is oval in the direction that you want to keep it from hanging up on the drive pin.  If it is hung up on the seal cap, you may need some penetrating oil and some time and possibly heat.  Hugh

 

 

 

[dracenroc]

Thanks for the picture Hugh, that helps!

 

As I can pass it forward it goes over the drive and cotter pin but I cannot see the seal by pulling it. So most probably the seal is stocked and moves forward collapsing the spring. This will also explain the remains of the greased stuff coming off.

I will try again and let you know.

 

Leif, the cap is aluminium.

[Fred Rawling]

Hugh has the right idea, lots of penetrating oil.   Try the latest one you  make yourself  50/50 trans fluid and acetone.  

[Larry Schramm]

Maybe a LITTLE bit of heat might help.

[dracenroc]

Short follow up, crankcase cap is off!

 

I tried it with heat, penetrating oil, pliers to squeeze and form and even with an exhaust extractor, no chance.

Finally I had to cut a short slot in the cap to open it a bit. Then I was able to pull back the seal and it came off by further pulling by hand.

Its full of dirt and a little bit bent, that must have been the cause for being stuck.

 

Thanks you all for your hints & tips!

 

 

 

[Hubert_25-25]

Werner, 

      All may not be lost for the old starter hole cover.  You can take a piece of pipe that fits inside the cover and put the pipe in a vice.   Perhaps with a hammer you will be able to straighten the aluminum tubing on the starter cover.  It will take some time, but this kind of work to me is theraputic.  You can't make it any worse, only better.  The split near the opening wont show.  If the inside end were sanded smooth and greased, it may have never gotten stuck.   Hugh 

[dibarlaw]

I made mine from 1 1/2" Chrome plated brass sink drain tubing. 

[Hubert_25-25]

Larry,      You do nice work.     Hugh

[Brian_Heil]

Remember only the front half is visible when installed so any repair is hidden by the radiator or shroud