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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Lookin good Kyle! Man you've got SOME more projects there!  And a nicely equipped shop to do them in. I bet you never cease to amaze your Mom with all your cars and what you do with them. 

Ythanks for sharing here!  And Happy Thanksgiving! 

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

well spent a little time on my wood frame cutting all the detail in the main runners .I laminated some 2x12  to make them tougher. By changing the wood grain direction so when I cut the new door post they will be tough as I can make the wood .This weekend I should be able to make most of the wood structure for in side the car . Most of the time I cut stuff like this out of 2'' thick stainless steel making this out of wood should be really ease . Im cutting all the cut outs 1/8 '' tight im going to file to fit with a sharp file .                                                                           A good file should make a big pile of shavings each push and never pull back a file touching the part at all and it will stay sharp as a tack but drag it backwards one time. I would throw the file away it   destroys them in one backwards stroke .

           My father in law pulled the spark plugs out and boy the in side looks gorgeous  new cross hatch so we put oil in each  and I pulled the valve cover off.  Oiled  it all down and pulled the motor through about 20 times. Trying to get some oil pumping before I start it this week . mark shaw came by my house and we had a great time looking at all the Buick's next time I will get my hand crank out and take all my old cars out for a drive. I realized something today while I was working on the engine in this Buick. I can hear my grandpapa  telling me what to do in side my head while I was checking the timing  .that's the best part of working on theses old cars . Kyle  

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Edited by sligermachine
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  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

     Windshield post just got back from the platers .  The 1925 roadster is on its new jig -build frame -paint trolley now i'm cooking with gasoline !!!   which bumper should I use ? Is either one right ?  I have a split one also . 

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Edited by sligermachine (see edit history)
Posted (edited)

      All bolted down to the frame jig testing door line up I would like them fit like a glove if possible. It's  possible had to slide a 1/4 `` shim in back left corner of car trunk area the main floor runners fit just perfect on the bottom flange so I don't know why I need a shim but it made all the difference in the world . Tomorrow  night I can finally make the wood frame on the inside of the car its being really fun but only working on it at night 

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Edited by sligermachine (see edit history)
  • Like 2
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

      I really don't know how I got it to wright nexts to the picture. that is cool though ,so I have never made from scratch  a wood frame for a car of this size back when I was like 23 . I made from a junk pile of parts a 1929 ford truck and I bought A wood kit to make that one 

.I wanted to see how hard it would be to make by hand first ----KYLE    one inch at a time 

Edited by sligermachine
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  • Like 1
Posted

PIcture #1 the only way I could figure out to make that cut that is half done in the background is by hand saw I started the cut with my skill saw and had to finish it by hand.

pic. # 2 I thought it was done but it was way wrong but the old ones were really tore up I had to guess at at a lot of dimensions but I just made it fat and figured I could always make it smaller how else could I do it .

pic #4 I clamped the 2 together and compared what I knew which was in blue pen and my guesses because  the wood was missing were in red ink pen. 

 

 

Posted

The door hinge post was tore up so I super glued it back together with a lot of clamps trying to get the cracks to line up I really  wanted it to copy but it was split in 6 parts at least the bolts had pulled the wood all apart --kyle

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Posted

I just started studying them with a protractor it was full of angels all 8 deg. or 4 deg. as I made my cuts I saved the cut offes to tape back on the cut parts so that part would stay square for the next cut .I figured that's how the factory did it but I was guessing a lot --Kyle

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Posted

So many angels I kept the part I was coping with the part getting cut so I could use the old part as  a jig of sorts .As I flipped the part I would flip the original . I had enuf fier wood and the hard wood was expensive and I ruined A few parts cutting the angel from the wrong side and the angel would be backwards when u put a protractor to just 2 sides of the part getting copied that is not the angel u are after set the part getting copied on the table now cheek the angel agin it is not the same that's because both sides are at angels I make parts at the shop all the time and this was really tricky more than it looked for shure.

pic. this cut is 2 different angels on the same side the bottom of this part it 2 angels also ^ the pic. up 3 is the end view of this part          ---       being cut . At this point is when I thought I'm going to program my cnc at work to make these parts I bet this part just stops some people from finishing making their door wood themself .-- one inch at a time -Kyle 

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Posted

Next I would have to draw the mirror image of thes parts to make the drivers door the only parts I had was spit in 2 and I only had half the part missing 3 others I put all the steps to make these doors in a different thread this is the first time I have used any fourm  or a computer on the internet I just avoid it all together but this was pretty fun and I needed help I just showed up on this web sight to find a wood kit for my buick and found out none could be bought I have over a hundred pic. of me making the drivers door alone .I did not realize I was starting a new thread every time I put a new heading on the subject sorry about that so I'M GOING to list the names of the threads in the next paragraph --kyle

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  • Like 1
Posted

pic. 1 test fitting both rear uprights their close 

pic # the corner part I took it off of the hard top that's hanging in the ceiling of my shop test fitting it its next to get copied

pic. 3 the seat back  corner at least with this I can mark bottom of seat back form this part its in good shape but only part I have of seat back 

pic. 4 the hard top off this 1925 hardtop roadster

pic. 5 conure finder this one I have used for 25 years I don't see them like this anymore its made by general tools its 1/16 dia. wire 

pic. 6 moving the angel shape with conure finder it gets it close .

pic. 7 the post fits like a glove and my son is getting his rock crawler suspension -drive lines done today yaaaa!!!!  have a good new year's eve.   -- one inch at a time -- Kyle  

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Posted

Well all I got done this year so far this drill and countersink are my favorite tool u need both all the time so I bought 8 0f them so I never have to move they are laying everywhere all over the car .I have been putting philips screws in that are fast but there for sheetrock not this car I remove the parts so fast using them some of these parts have been removed 25 times wile I remove adjust the cuts move the mounting point so that's why I use the 6'' # 40 size pilot for the sheet rock screws but after I decided its where its staying I us the big taper bit  with countersink built in   3 seconds and its ready for a real old screw but I'm trying not to rune the paint job on them so I only want to instal them one time  the seat frame is started and the header is installed for peminat .I ended up having to pull the wood parts off the top in the ceiling I copied them with paper but was not sure witch way the top got mounted and for that I needed it in my hand .

Now I have  the bracket mounted that holds the top on on the left side . one inch at a time --Kyle 

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  • Like 1
Posted

WOW just noticed the size of the lathe in one of the early pictures........

With that monster you could turn the Buick crank while still in the engine.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I have the old wood.The nail holes line up in the sheet metal so I know it's the right part in the right place the old screws do line up with the wood that I pulled off the top hanging in the shop ceiling the cross big part holes line up in the body to but the corner part at the angle it is looks wrong any help out there ? the old rusty screws fit the parts together to ??   at the factory the guy putting this one for got to put a nail or screw from the big crossmember to the big corner part or I am missing a part that goes between them ?-Kyle the part that I added has a red x on it but the other side has one just like it .

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Edited by sligermachine
spelling (see edit history)
Posted (edited)

It came with a soft top to but I'm going to use that on another car I am going to set it on it to cheek out the differences between the 2 tops and how they are similar and different the knowledge might be useful one day to someone else that has a soft top it's going to end up on a 1927-47  I hope but only GOD knows If i will get to it .-Kyle 

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Edited by sligermachine (see edit history)
Posted (edited)

1927-47  Is what I was talking about the back half is missing so this will be a fun project. anyone have a roadster rear end for sale ?or trade . The owner told me he parked it wher I picked it up from so when I looked it over it does look runnable the cylinders look really good thru the spark plug holes and nothing is took lose so I bet I could get it running I a week end for cars like this I like to fill the engine up with oil from the spark plug holes .This car is why Im setting up the CNC's to make more wood parts If I have to I will set up and make the missing body parts to roll them by hand .Much easier to buy one and faster -- Kyle  

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Edited by sligermachine (see edit history)
Posted (edited)

I was hoping to get the body including new wood frame in side the sheet metal back on the frame for a test fit of me in car.   For seat and steering wheel but my vacation is over  for now .I will work on it every night till I can drive it .This is way funner than TV any day I will put all my door wood and trunk wood pictures here also wile I keep working on them . thank you for keeping me motivated  And if you have a roadster pretty soon I will have some wood parts to help you out if you need them. ----KYLE  - one inch at a time.

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Edited by sligermachine
spelling . (see edit history)
  • Like 3
Posted

setting all the wood in the car it fits I have more patterns than I thought for the trunk to duplicate I really thought it was part of a old pallet not the trunk floor but I did not take it apart so it was a puzzle for shure -- It made more sense after the car body was on the frame not on the floor fro the trunk--  Kyle one inch at a time

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Posted

So im up to fitting the seat  to the car I need to know how it fits to make the wood work with each other coincide smooth looking yesterday I thought I had found the seat frame and springs but I think I have 7 or 8 frames some have uplstry on them still looks prity good to I asked my uncle Don that showed me how to do upholstery  we have done a couple of cars now he seen I had the wrong springs in I had the seat pushed way to far back but as soon as I knew the seat was like 26-1/4 from firewall '' thank you for getting me the dimension''  larry drawbar I had the seat frame I thought it was for another part of the car -- kyle 

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Posted

now that looks much better with that frame in their nice curve on the bottom that will look real  pretty   after I cover it with leather  we will see that really soon -- one inch at a time 

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  • Like 2
Posted

Nicely done.  It amazes me that there is no mechanism to adjust the seat position.  I remember squeezing behind the wheel of a 1919 Buick touring car and thinking; just how small were our forefathers?  This one appears to be built for someone quite tall however.

  • Like 2
Posted

well if i need to nail a 2'' tall steel strip to hold seat  in place I must need something to nail it too ? Have the top hard mounts in place and ordered some hog rings to start the new upholstery next week and black thread . Kyle one inch at a time 

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Posted (edited)
On 1/4/2018 at 10:50 AM, JohnD1956 said:

tall however

Ya  that.  what I thought to but 26-1/4 to the forward wall on the cowl to the front of seat and the old wood that fits the old holes in the place for the back and angel .I would like to put the whole thing on the car and see how the steering column fits me.  -kyle

Edited by sligermachine (see edit history)
  • 1 month later...
Posted

This is the trunk frame bottom the shape is to keep the wood sill dry where they get nailed together . A little wood clear will help it stay new longer. replacing the Phillips screws with Standard screws the same size it's easier   that way  - Kyle

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  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

    MY Grand ma and pa  . the truck is mine now but when I talk about my truck its grandpaws 31 I love driving it. this man is why I like rebuilding old cars so much . Thanks Grandpa . 

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  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1

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