1936 Chrysler won't start

[Guest]

My 1936 Chrysler won't start. Doesn't seem to have any spark, although I can get a spark by manually opening the points, and the points open while cranking. Very puzzling. Know anyone I can correspond with to work this out? Thanks.

John Crews

[fordee9r (Ron Springstead)]

Try filing point contacts with a point file. I have run into this before that when you manually open the points with a small screwdriver you get spark. It turns out that the screwdriver is making and breaking the circuit and not the point contacts.

[Guest]

Ron,

I've filed the points, but that didn't solve the problem. As I mentioned, I get a good spark when I open the points with a wooden stick, but a much weaker spark while cranking. I just replaced the battery. Here's how I have to start the engine: I crank it for a few seconds and then release the starter button. If the engine is turning fast enough, there will be enough momentum to carry it through another partial rotation, and the stronger spark will cause it to fire up. It then runs very smoothly once it gets started. I think something must be wrong with the condensor, the coil, or the wiring somewhere.

Thanks again for the reply.

[fordee9r (Ron Springstead)]

If you have good spark when the starter is not cranking, it sounds like the starter is drawing too much current. First, check your battery cables and connections. The cables should be very large (compared to 12 volt) and all connections clean. My '37 Chrysler had the right size cables but the previous owner had used a 12 volt replacement battery terminal. When I replaced it with a heavy duty truck terminal, the results were amazing!

[Guest]

Ron,

It may be my starter is drawing too much current and needs to be rebuilt. It sure cranks fine though. The cables and connections have worked fine for years, and there's no evidence of corrosion. How can I find out what normal starter current is?

John Crews

1936 C7 Sedan

[Guest]

Ron,

Starter Number MAX-4016 (I assume) stats are:

Brush spring tension --42-53 Ounces.

No load test:

AMPS- 65,, Volts-- 5.5,, RPM-- 5300

Lock Test:

AMPS-- 880,, Volts-- 4.0,, Torgue Lbs. Ft.-- 25.0

I hope that helps you. Norris <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" />

[Paul S]

After filing the points, take a piece of paper or, a dollar bill works real good, and wipe it thru the points. This cleans any filings or oil left bhind.

[fordee9r (Ron Springstead)]

If you look at this logically, you will determine that operating the starter uses enough current from the battery that there isn't enough left for the coil to produce a good spark. You say the starter works OK so I think you can eliminate the need to rebuild it. That leaves the battery, the cables and the connections.

Beginning at your new battery, are the posts clean and shiny? Are the insides of the cable terminals clean and shiny? Have bolt-on replacement terminals been installed? If so, they MUST be replaced with HD truck type terminals. Do the terminals go all the way down on the battery posts or just part way? Full contact between the terminal and post is necessary. You say the cables have worked fine for years but all things, even cables, deteriorate with age. The cables should be half to three quarters inch diameter. I don't remember the wire gauge but it's something like "00", "000", etc. Here's a case where bigger is better! Many buy their cable from welding shops. You say your connections have worked fine for years and you don't see any corrosion. This could be your whole problem! Starting with the ground cable, remove the bolt that fastens it to the engine. If your ground cable bolts to the body or frame, NO GOOD. It HAS to bolt to the engine block! The eye of the cable should be clean and shiny on both sides and the spot on the block it contacts should be cleaned and shined with a wire brush or sandpaper. It's not a bad idea to clean up the threads in the block with a tap or thread chaser. Finally, the bolt and any washers should be cleaned up on a wire wheel so that all contact points between the bolt, cable end and block are metal to metal... no paint or dirt between any of them.

Poor or dirty ground connections are the biggest cause of problems in 6 volt systems! Good luck!

[Guest]

If the points gap is wrong it won't start, check the gap and adjust if necessary.