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1928 Dodge Brothers Standard 6 Barn Find


keithb7
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Hi folks, I recently came in contact with a 1928 Dodge Brothers Standard 6. I volunteered to spend some time assessing the car and putting together a budget number. At this point, the plan is to make it drivable and safe. The car appears to be mostly stock. The engine turns. Early indications are its mostly all there. I was able to obtain the car SN. It is J37014. It appears to be an early June 1928 build. I believe this is just before Chrysler bought the company. Is this correct?

 

The 6 cylinder engine SN reads J49-049. I so far I have not been able to locate any info on the engine SN. So if anyone can verify this correct for 1928 , that would be great.

We pulled the front wheels today and found mechanical brakes. There seemed to be no inner wheel bearing dust seal so there is wheel grease all over the front brake shoes. The 4 cables at each wheel are in rough shape. Does anyone know of a source for 4 new brake cables?

They are short, about 18" long each. We are going to need new cables. I am going to try and hot wash the brake shoe assemblies and see what we can do to clean them up. Drums look good. We will make a puller for the rear and get the rear wheels off later this week.  

 

The engine spins free. We measured some decent compression numbers today, even turning with the hand crank. We removed the fuel tank today and cleaned out the fuel lines. The tank will be sent out for a good cleaning. We suspect it will run soon.

Here are some pics. I have heard the head lights are not correct. Can anyone confirm?

 

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Below here are the brake cables we need. These are the front only shown:

 

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Any help is appreciated folks. More pics to come. Thanks, Keith

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Looks like a good winter challenge. Try Myers Early Dodge (Michigan) and Romar Dodge (Pennsylvania) Myers has a one volume CD put together by John B. It is for the Victory 6 but includes many models from 1928. The Dodge Brother Club sells a 3 or 4 CD of back issues of  the DBC News which is searchable. Seems you are on the right tack to clean the gas tank and have the radiator flushed. Good luck.

Paul

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 Thank for sharing. That's a real nice car John. I like it a lot. Great work you did there.

I had a vintage Dodge Brothers specialist reply to me today. It seems there are zero options for new brake cables. We will have to get them made. We will wait until we get the rear wheels off and get all 4 cables ready to be built.

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46 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

 Thank for sharing. That's a real nice car John. I like it a lot. Great work you did there.

I had a vintage Dodge Brothers specialist reply to me today. It seems there are zero options for new brake cables. We will have to get them made. We will wait until we get the rear wheels off and get all 4 cables ready to be built.

Hi there keith  i could get you a close up of the headlight  .Keep ypur eyes out for a speedo mines shot and not working ....John

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  • 1 month later...

According to my manual for a 28 std six it states .005" when the engine is hot. I adjusted mine after driving on a cool day and the exhaust valves were too tight causing a rough idle ,after pulling large hills on hot days. I readjusted them at idle with the radiator partly covered and with the timing retarded to get some heat into the valves. After that engine ran well even at high speeds on hot days. 

IMG_2110.JPG

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Midland Steeldraulic for sure.  Great brake system, when adjusted right I can stop from 50 mph within my headlight beams.  Remember that the "toggle" is like a scissor jack, not much mechanical advantage at the start.   The first 1-1 3/4" pedal travel get the shoes against the drums and the next inch locks the wheels.  Don't set them up any tighter or you lose out on the self energizing effect.

I have about a dozen books about MS brakes.  The only ones with your style shoes seemed to be your dodge and the 28-29 Huppmobile..  The adjusting seems to be the same it is just the shoes that are different.

 

REID002.pdf

REID004.pdf

Edited by Guest (see edit history)
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Keith there is no service manual for the 28 standard six that I'm aware of. I got the info from the Dodge Brothers six cylinder 140 series operation and care manual. It's actually quite indepth. Myers has a CD for the victory six that is fantastic and since we share the same drivetrain with the victory (  minus it hydraulic brakes)  it's great. 

IMG_2111.JPG

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I thought I would share some of my recent learnings, dealing with these Steeldraulic brakes. These are mechanical brakes. I read a number of essays on function, installation and set up of these brakes. It seemed no two essays were the same. Reading them all helped put the all the clues together. I think part of my struggle was not fully grasping what I was reading initially. I thought I would record the info here so others seeking out info in the future might find and learn from this. Thanks @Tinindian for passing along the info you shared. It was helpful.

 

First pic here is a rear set. The movable part of the shoe points toward the ground on the rear set. The adjuster mechanism seen at about 5 o'clock. The toggle placement is important. One toggle has a solid centre, or inner. That one points toward the adjuster mechanism on all 4 brakes. The toggle with the hollow centre, fitting over the solid centre toggle, at the centre pin,  points toward the rigid part of the shoe. 

 

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The centre mount pins for the outer ends of the toggles are off-set. See pic below here. See how the pin with a cotter pin through it,  is closer to right end of the pin in the photo? This is a mounting pin for a toggle. It needs to be located closer to the backing plate side of the shoe. If this pin is closer to the outer end of pin, the brakes will not mount properly. Due to this off-set mounting pin, you cannot mix up left and right shoes.  You can switch up front and back on the same side, but not left to right.

 

 

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Here you can see an approximate red colour centre line that I drew in.  This pic shows the pin hole off-set clearly. This hole is to be closer to backing plate when shoe is mounted properly.

 

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Next pic is adjusting cam. The cam has tabs on it that fit around the sides of the hex head bolt. Ensure these tabs are squared up tight against the bolt head. Later when the drum is installed you will need to set these cams, by turning bolt to push the rigid side of the shoe, closer to the drum. 0.020" clearance is the spec.

 

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Here are a few more pics for reference. I learned these key bits of information the hard way. On and off a few times with the shoes. Scratching my head. Hours and hours later, it feels pretty good to get this figured out.

My partner and I have taught ourselves to be mechanical brake experts. A fine skill that we may never, ever have use for again. LOL. Good luck with yours. - Keith

 

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Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)
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Glad you got your brakes working properly.  The bulge that you show in the last picture (when installed properly) prevents the toggles from going overcenter.  If this happens the brake on that wheel is fully locked.  It is very very hard to get the toggle back in the proper position. 

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I happy to say that today the project has been completed. The Car Club's 1928 Dodge has been revived. The group worked diligently over the past few months giving the car all the repairs needed.

The car is almost all stock except for a few things. Paint, headlights and rear tail lamp brackets that were fabricated. The car now runs like new. The brakes work excellent. The car is ready to lead the club's Easter parade on April 1st. 

I joined the local vintage car club just in Sept of this year. The timing of this project was perfect in that I was able to work on it. I had tons of fun, learned a lot, and made some great new friends. It's true, old guys rule. They taught me a ton. I feel fortunate. 

Here it is. Probably the one and only time it will ever see snow. We took it out of the shop to get some photos and test the brakes. All is well. Another Dodge Brothers car is back on the road.

 

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Edited by keithb7 (see edit history)
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On 2/1/2018 at 4:03 PM, Kenendcindyc said:

 Keith that looks great. What size tires are you running? I'm running 4.75-500 lesters but they have allways looked to small on the car. 


I am unsure, I would have to check next time I see the car.

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  • 3 months later...
On 2/1/2018 at 4:03 PM, Kenendcindyc said:

 Keith that looks great. What size tires are you running? I'm running 4.75-500 lesters but they have allways looked to small on the car. 

 

I finally got a chance to check the tire size on this 28 DB.  They are Goodrich Silvertown 4 ply. 550-19

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