clock replacement options

[PaulMuzz]

On 12/30/2021 at 2:22 PM, RivNut said:

Getting the original clocks to work is relatively easy if you understand how they operate.  First thing you need to realize is that the clocks are not electric, there’re driven by a spring, like your grandpas old pocket watch except that the spring needs to be would about every minute or so.  The clock has a 12V wire running to it but it’s only function is to provide a spark that ends the main spring.  To get the clock to operate, take off the housing and find the “Points.” At least that’s what they look like.  Clean the with a points file (your wife’s emory board will do.). Spray the clock with some canned air like you use to clean computers.  Ground the base and put 12V to the + terminal and see if the man spring will wind.  If it does and the clock won’t start, grab it an start twisting you wrist as if you were shaking a martini.  That should get things moving.  Watch it for a while, around a minute or less until the spring completely unwinds. When it unwinds, the “points” should close.  Applying 12V to the + terminal again should rewind the clock and it’s all mechanical again.  That fraction of a second of 12V every so often is all it takes to keep it running. Once the old dust and dirt has been cleaned from the gears, a couple drops of oil should be all it takes to keep the clock running for a long time.  If your clock loses time, every time you reset it, you are internally adjusting it to run faster.  If your clock gains time, every time you rest it, you are internally adjusting it to run slower.  Never reset it forward or backwards 12 hours or you will really mess up the internal adjuster.  The clock is perhaps the simplest apparatus in the entire car.  Try it and let us know if you were successful. 

Hi Ed

here are a few pictures of my clock. I can’t quite figure out what to do. A video or pictures would be very helpful. 

[RivNut]

1 hour ago, PaulMuzz said:

Hi Ed

here are a few pictures of my clock. I can’t quite figure out what to do. A video or pictures would be very helpful. 

Presently I do not have a clock that I can photograph and I cannot tell you what to do based on your pictures. Perhaps there’s someone else who can show you. Sorry,

Ed

[PaulMuzz]

No worries I thought if there were something obvious in the pictures it could help. I tried all the tips you mentioned. I cannot figure out how to get it going, even temporarily. I think it’s fried. 

[RivNut]

If you have a 12V source, I used to have a 12V cordless drill, hook two jumper wires to the battery - one positive and one negative.  Connect the positive wire to the post with the threads on it.  Then quickly touch the negative wire to the chassis of the clock. That should wind the mainspring.  If the main spring winds and the movements (gears) within the clock start moving, you’re in good shape.  The clock should wind down in a short time.  Repeat the process.  
 

If the mainspring winds but the gears don’t start their oscillating movement, grab the entire clock and vigorously shake the clock by quickly rotating it with a back and forth motion of your wrist.  If that starts the gears moving, then you’ve loosened up the gears.  You might need to spray the gears with some computer cleaner.  Once the clock winds down you’ll see where the end of the mainspring makes contact with something that looks like a set of points.  Make sure both sides of the ‘points’ are clean and make full contact.  Leave the positive wire connected to the screw post and connect the negative wire to the chassis.  You should be able to watch the clock movement as it would set in the dash.  As the mainspring unwinds, the points will get closer together. When they make contact, the mainspring should rewind and keep the clock running.  12V only make contact for a split second so you cannot run down the cars battery.  When mounted in the dash, the chassis is grounded through the harness that provides 12V to all of the instruments.  There’s a a separate wire that connects to the shell that provides 12V to the lamp.  That wire is constantly hot when the lights are turned on.  Keep us informed.

 

Ed

[rodneybeauchamp]

PaulMuzz,

there is a set of contacts in the mechanism, one on an arm the other fixed. As the spring winds down it moves the arm toward the other contact. When they meet it activates the solenoid and winds the spring.

 

I carefully cleaned both contacts flat and after soaking the mechanism in Shellite (Aus$12.00) for about 24 hours I was able to getting it moving.

 

At first by gently turning one of the spring loaded wheels ( not sure what they are called ) it ran the clock for a few seconds each time, getting longer and longer as it freed up the internals. Eventually it ran long enough for the contacts to close fully. Then I put it on a 12V power source. BTW the Shellite provides lubrication while gently spinning the wheel submerged.

 

Now every time I screw down the battery disconnect I hear the lovely thump as the clock starts up …. Still running strong since the refurbishment. For more information see the comments that I put on the following post.

 

In my opinion, putting a Quartz’s replacement clock is like replacing the Nailhead with an LS1 ….. sacrilege 🙁🙁🙁🙁🙁

 

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

Edited May 11, 2022 by rodneybeauchamp
Added info (see edit history)

[PaulMuzz]

Thank you Ed and Rodney for all the details and tips. My understanding is that it should run for a minute or so without any power if you pull back the part with the spring and then you should see it come back to touch the other contact. I’m my case I cock it back and it doesn’t budge. The only thing I can do is spin one of the parts by hand and it sometimes makes the second hand move but even after air spraying and shaking it doesn’t move on it’s own. Could be a clock repair can take a look and see if they could spot any issues. Another problem I discovered was the wire from the top is broken off where it connected to the coil ( I think ). But either way it should run without power and it doesn’t. 

[RivNut]

44 minutes ago, PaulMuzz said:

Thank you Ed and Rodney for all the details and tips. My understanding is that it should run for a minute or so without any power if you pull back the part with the spring and then you should see it come back to touch the other contact. I’m my case I cock it back and it doesn’t budge. The only thing I can do is spin one of the parts by hand and it sometimes makes the second hand move but even after air spraying and shaking it doesn’t move on it’s own. Could be a clock repair can take a look and see if they could spot any issues. Another problem I discovered was the wire from the top is broken off where it connected to the coil ( I think ). But either way it should run without power and it doesn’t. 

May be time for an update to a quartz conversion.  Put the quartz conversion in your old clock body using the original face and hands.  

[RivNut]

 

This image of a 1st Generation Riviera clock gives you a better view of the contact "points."  As the mainspring winds down, the points will make contact and 12V will pass through them winding the main spring and separating the points.  In this picture the points are almost closed.  In the picture of your clock, they are fully opened.  Keep messing with it, you might be surprised at what you might gain.

[PaulMuzz]

After staring at this clock for so long i know everything about it but unfortunately after pulling back the spring it just stays open and never closes.  I can move some of the gears with a screw driver without much effort but it is not moving on its own.  For the quartz conversion, i did see a kit for about 100 dollars in the Original part group catalog.  Are there other options out there?

thanks again!

[XframeFX]

Purchase direct from Instrument Services, Ad can be found in the "Services" section of the Riview Classified. They have a website.

In addition to the conversion, you'd want to re-paint the interior of the clock can with a white phosphorous paint and use a cool white LED BA9 bulb.

[RivNut]

Don’t trust OPGI to have what they advertise.  They’ll put parts on back order until they have sufficient numbers to contact their supplier.  May take years.

[Riviera63]

11 hours ago, PaulMuzz said:

After staring at this clock for so long i know everything about it but unfortunately after pulling back the spring it just stays open and never closes.  I can move some of the gears with a screw driver without much effort but it is not moving on its own.  For the quartz conversion, i did see a kit for about 100 dollars in the Original part group catalog.  Are there other options out there?

thanks again!

These are the guys John was talking about. They are great. If you request they will send back the original mechanism. Mine has not skipped a beat in 5 years.

 

Bill

 

 

[60FlatTop]

I am pretty lucky. My '60 Electra is one of the very rare, tissue dispenser delete cars. And from "time to untime" I slip in my clock delete. Maybe I will get it rechromed someday.