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Neil's '41 Super Model 51


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Some Preservation Work

 

While the gas tank is out being reconditioned, I wanted to do some cleaning up of the area above the tank.  While I was at it, I did the spare tire well also.

Just "lazy man's rust removal," which consisted of using the "prep and etch" to neutralize the rust and then a coat of flat black paint.

 

above_tank.thumb.jpg.c40ca4e3dfacbbd1a8fabb41789abaa3.jpg

Before

 

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After

 

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Spare tire well -- before and after

 

I also installed the gas tank "cushion" material for the top of the tank.  It is held in place by tabs that go through holes in the material and then

are bent.  I was concerned that the tabs might be so rusted that they would break off, but they held up fine.

 

cushion.thumb.jpg.d17f11c351119b6f85825a0dcfb02e4d.jpg

I used a punch to make holes in the new material, using one of the old pieces as a template.

 

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Ready to reinstall the tank.  I dropped it off at the shop on Friday, and it's supposed to be ready by this Wednesday -- very quick turn around!

 

 

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47 minutes ago, neil morse said:

Just "lazy man's rust removal," which consisted of using the "prep and etch" to neutralize the rust and then a coat of flat black paint.

Nothing wrong with that; it is more than the factory used and will outlast you a few other owners since it will lead a more sheltered life!

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Did Some Soldering Today

 

I soldered up a new wire to go to the gas tank sending unit today.  It might seem like overkill to use old school cloth insulated wire

on a driver like mine, but I love working with the stuff! 

 

sender.thumb.jpg.9bae4996f4c38c7dd0cc9e3872072293.jpg

Here's the old wire with the new replacement.

 

I also made up a wire to use for the dedicated ground to the sender.  I decided to just run it back up into the trunk with the positive

line to keep it out of harm's way.

 

ground.thumb.jpg.f64847579559d6f8d468a944d8b99078.jpg

 

I'm hoping to get the tank back on Friday and reinstall it over the weekend.

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Reinstalling the Gas Tank

I picked up my tank this morning from Ron at San Leandro Radiator.  A very pleasant and competent guy, if anyone from the Bay Area is looking for a place

that does radiators and gas tanks. 

 

new_tank2.thumb.jpg.0804d53bb632071ce74d5e8577ea829a.jpg

 

 

 

As you can see, the inside is now a milky white after sand blasting and three applications of plastic coating.

 

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Inside the tank

 

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New sender installed and wired up with dedicated ground

 

 

 

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Tank going back in -- piece of cake!

 

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All done.  The only slight glitch was that the new straps I got from Bob's were too short so I had to clean up and reuse the old ones.  (:P I should have

wiped off those finger prints before taking the picture!)

 

I put in a few gallons from a can, and headed to the gas station where I filled it up, stopping a few times to check the gauge to try to see

how accurate it is.  It reads a little low (hits empty with three gallons in the tank) which I suppose isn't a bad thing, but is otherwise right

on the money.  I'm a happy camper -- a good day.

 

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On 12/22/2017 at 3:31 PM, Buicknutty said:

 

 I also have an issue with mine popping out of third on a coast, at times, but not always. I was able to get some bushings back when I restored the car a few years ago, and actually remanufactured part of the steel shaft the you have a picture of above, but there is still one quite loose bushing near the transmission. I have been thinking that maybe the culprit.

 

Keith, I'm about to become much more familiar with the '40 transmission in my car, and for now relay information on your problem based on my Ford experience.  Slipping out of gear while coasting in those transmissions was caused by worn synchronizing part(s).  Based on the trans diagram below, would it be part K? (anyone)

5a762d02b0a27_TransDiagram.thumb.jpg.1d2440dcce94a8aebf12eba771f2f103.jpg

 

As shown on Bob's page: 

SYNCRO-408.jpg

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 Neil, I cannot enlarge the picture well enough to see part "K". Slipping out of gear can be caused by a few things, but from what I have been given to understand, linkage is the most common problem with these. Though I confess my experience is limited is this area.

 Keith

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7 minutes ago, Buicknutty said:

 Neil, I cannot enlarge the picture well enough to see part "K". Slipping out of gear can be caused by a few things, but from what I have been given to understand, linkage is the most common problem with these. Though I confess my experience is limited is this area.

 Keith

 

Hi Keith, as is often the case, this thread has gotten a bit derailed.  Ken (kgreen) was the person who posted the picture and asked about "part K," not me.  All I can report is that my car has not popped out of third gear since I installed the "shift linkage kit" from Bob's that replaces all the rubber bushings in the shift linkage.  (Additional note:  if you click twice a photo that is posted on this forum, you can enlarge it quite a bit.  I could read the picture posted by Ken pretty well after clicking on it to enlarge it.)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Door Lock Problem

 

Another item on my list was fixing the door locks so I could lock my car.  When I got the car, the key cylinder was missing altogether

from the driver's door, and the key would not open the door on the passenger side.  As a result, it was possible to lock the car, but that

didn't do me any good because there was no way to unlock it from the outside once it was locked.

 

door4.thumb.jpg.b2decf8082a30fbe10bec8e431c6f56c.jpg

First step was to remove all the hardware and take the door panels off.  I don't know about anyone else, but I'm not a big fan of the GM system of

securing the inside cranks and handles with those nearly impossible to get at clips that have a tendency to "fly away" once you finally

get them off.  I got a special tool from Bob's that helps a lot, but it's still a hassle.  But enough complaining ...

 

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Here's the latch mechanism, door handle, and key lock once I got them out of the door.  The Shop Manual had very good instructions with photos showing

how to do this.  (I love the photos in the shop manual that always show the mechanics dressed in white smocks like doctors.)

 

5a85dff1871c8_door_lock(2)_LI.thumb.jpg.ccb5a78e5e9bbecd9cf6cc976f8cbec0.jpg

I was fortunately able to see right away where the problem was.  The round piece with the triangular hole for the rod from the key cylinder has two "ears"

on it (one of which is obscured in this photo).  The pointy part (lever?) is supposed to sit down between the two ears.  When you turn the key, the ears

hit the lever and either lock or unlock the door (pulling the button down or popping it up).  On my car, the lever had gotten bent up so it rode above the

"ears" and consequently, turning the key did nothing.

 

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Here's a close up showing the lever riding on top of one of the "ears" instead of sitting down between them.

 

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Side view showing the problem

 

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Lever bent back down -- all fixed.

 

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All cleaned up and ready to get a little grease in the right spots and go back in the car.  I have to wait to put everything back together because

I ordered new rubber from Steele's while I had it all apart.  It will sure expand my horizons to be able to lock the car when I park it!

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Visit with Wayne

 

I had a nice visit today with fellow '41 Super owner, Wayne (414TATA on the forum).  Wayne used to work in Colma, just south of SF, and drove up here

today to visit some friends.  We arranged a meeting place in Colma, and I drove down in my Super to meet him.  We had a great time comparing notes

and swapping stories about our cars -- both Super Model 51 four-doors.  Here's a pic of Wayne with my car.  Great meeting you, Wayne, I really enjoyed it!

 

wayne.thumb.jpg.16ebe37b18b2d15675a4cb7eaade7bf1.jpg

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On 2/3/2018 at 8:40 PM, DonMicheletti said:

My experience with popping out of high  gear on trailing throttle is usually due to a bad input ball bearing. The actual synchronizer has nothing to do with driving the car, it only matches shaft speeds during a shift.

 

 I would have wondered that as well, except so many Ford people told me about the gear jump out due to synchronizers.  Here's a shot of the Buick shop manual definatey stating that this can be a problem with Buicks as well.

5a9070e7e116b_gearjump.thumb.JPG.5f8a10301cb18083ea457f4552b3b108.JPG

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That's an interesting list of things that can cause jumping out of high gear (my particular problem).  I don't know if they are listed in order of the most common cause, but I have suspected from the beginning that the main cause in my car is the motor mounts -- which are in sad shape.  The reason I suspect this is that the problem always occurs on a long down grade when braking.  I think the mounts are sufficiently loose that the engine is moving slightly when brakes are applied.  However, I also think that the worn shift linkage discussed earlier in this thread contributed to the problem.  It has only happened one time since we installed the shift linkage repair kit with all the new rubber bushings.  Anyhow, I'm hoping that it's nothing worse than that.  The transmission is behaving very well otherwise.

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Another Day, Another Door

 

I actually wish it was just one other day, but it's going to take a number of days before all my door issues are dealt with.

Having solved the problem with the key lock on the passenger side front door, I have started tackling multiple issues with

the other three doors, starting with the passenger side rear door.   The main problem with this door is that it doesn't fit properly. 

With the door closed, there is a gap of about a quarter inch at the top, which is enough so that the rubber seal is not compressed

and it leaks water.  This is not acceptable -- I have to be able to at least wash my car, even if I don't drive it in the rain. 

 

I met a "body man" through my new friend George (Grimy on the forum), and I'm going to see if he can help with this situation. 

After consulting the Shop Manual, I'm hoping it's just a matter of adjusting the hinges (which allow for a bit of up and down and

in and out adjustment).  If not, I may have to get into the "Way Back" machine and find the fellow (in the obligatory lab coat)

in this picture and see if he still has the "door straightening tool" available!

 

door_straightening_tool.thumb.jpg.4a2befa69a68814f03af844f66459da8.jpg

 

In preparation for my session with the body man, I set about taking the door panel and other hardware off the door, and

one thing led to another (as often happens), and now I'm in the middle of replacing the rubber on the rear vent window. 

The old rubber was rock hard, and getting it out was a real PITA.  (I was amazed by the photos of Gary W. taking

the old vent window rubber out of his '37 -- it was soft and supple (looks like my new rubber from Steele)

and came right out.  Mine was the consistency of concrete, and had to be cut and scraped out with

the help of an acetone bath.

 

rear_vent2.thumb.jpg.09540a05111016831e8b1a314b607d53.jpg

 

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I also discovered that the regulator for the rear vent not only had a missing bolt where the vent attached, but had a broken shaft as well, so

now I'm looking for a replacement.

 

5a90feb4011a4_vent_regulator(2)_LI.thumb.jpg.68004fda4bd1b10bc079ba5618c67529.jpg

 

Looking for a more simple job today, I took the latch mechanism out and cleaned it up the way I had done for the front door. 

It makes it a lot smoother and quieter -- no more squeaks and moans when I open the door.

 

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Before

 

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That's all for now -- stay tuned.

 

 

Edited by neil morse (see edit history)
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Another method to rebend your door is while the door is open, stick a 2x4 in the door opening, carefully shutting the door on the 2x4.  You would then lean heavily on the top of the window area to push that part of the door in.  The 2x4 might be placed just below the last point of contact that the door has with the rubber door seal.  This works for minor adjustment.  Any larger adjustment could cause a probem in another part of the door.

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Thanks for the suggestion, Ken.  I have heard that you can successfully bend a door using that technique -- kind of a "shade tree" version of the "door straightening tool" shown in the shop manual.  At this point, I'm going to defer to my body man, but we may end up giving this technique a try.

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I went on a NorCal Buick Club outing yesterday -- my first since joining the group.  It was a combined event with a local Chevy club, a visit to a building in Martinez, CA that used to house a Chevy dealership in the 20's and 30's.  It is now being used by a collector to store and display his beautiful collection of brass era cars, including several early Buicks.  Across the street, there was another old warehouse with a very interesting collection of cars and automobilia. 

 

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My car behind a nice '40 Chevy.  Family resemblance is very clear.

 

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Sweet '28 Chevy coupe

 

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'60 LaSabre hardtop

 

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Very early Buick -- '04?

 

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Nice '38 Special

 

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Another early Buick -- don't know the year. 

 

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Very handsome Reo touring car

 

On the way home, I found this lovely '49 Caddy convertible at the Bay Bridge toll plaza, and followed it back into San Francisco.

 

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A really fun day!

 

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Sound Deadener

 

When I took the door panels off two of the doors of my car, I found that the sound deadening material had completely rotted away.

 

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Not wanting clanging doors, I bought some new material similar to the Dynamat product that Gary W. used on his '37.

The stuff I got is made by a company called Partsam, available with free shipping from Amazon, and about half the price of the Dynamat.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07786VRCL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I haven't put any in the doors yet, but I put some down on the front floor panels under the rubber mat yesterday since I had plenty of extra.  

The stuff is very easy to use -- just as described in Gary's thread, you pull off the backing and use a roller to get the material to conform to the surface.

I recommend this to anyone looking for a similar product.

 

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sound_dead.thumb.jpg.61c3c46a310a7db08c4adb63c8f3dffe.jpg

 

 

 

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Progress

 

I'm continuing to work on the right rear door.  I have an appointment to meet with the "body man" on Friday to see if we can get the hinges adjusted (or perhaps do something more drastic) to get the door to seal properly.  In the meantime, I have stripped everything but the latch mechanism out of the door so I can do some rust treatment and install the sound deadening material.  

 

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Everything gone

 

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Window regulator as it came out of the door

 

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Regulator cleaned up.  (I didn't give it the full "Gary W." treatment -- just a gasoline bath and some wire brushing.)

 

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Vent window frame stripped and painted, and vent reinstalled with new rubber -- ready to go back in the door when I get a new regulator from Doug Seybold.

 

This is very satisfying work -- and thanks again to Gary for guiding the way with his detailed photos and descriptions

 

 

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I just had to comment on the appearance of the rocker arm compartment; the oil looks strange, kind of crystalline. I've only seen smooth oil coating in this area but your rockers look unusual as if maybe water or steam is getting under the rocker cover.  

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I will defer to others on the question of water or steam.  But in post #29, Don Micheletti noted the unusual appearance of the "crud" in my valve train -- more "cooked' and flaky, rather than sludgy -- and attributed it to the poor crankcase ventilation from the short-lived change in '41 to venting the crankcase through the valve cover into the air cleaner instead of using a road draft tube.  This one year experiment is discussed earlier in the thread.

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More Progress

 

I got the sound deadening material in the right rear door -- it makes a clearly audible difference.  The door closes with a "thunk" instead of a "clang," and that's without the interior door panel installed.

 

rear_door9.thumb.jpg.c10e095ac64e003e885d439058ad725a.jpg

 

And then today I met with Grimy's friend, Gary, for a consultation on the problem with the door not fitting properly.  Gary was able to adjust the hinges to raise the door up a bit, which took care of one problem.

 

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However, we determined that the upper part of the door is going to have to be "reshaped" (i.e., bent) to get it to seal properly.  We tried to do it with a 2X4, but it required more muscle than either of us had.  Gary took me down to meet Mike at a local body shop, who said he was pretty sure he could take care of it.  So I will be going back another day to let Mike have a go at it.

 

I also picked up my rear bumper, which Gary had sent out for replating at a very good price, and it looks beautiful.  So a very good day!  I am so grateful to the AACA for hosting this fantastic forum, which has enabled me to meet so many helpful and friendly fellow-enthusiasts!

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Before you put the door panel back on, may I ask what is the possibility that the sound deadner will absorb water?  If any, I suggest you strip it out and live with the clang. I'd be overly cautious about creating a continuous wet blanket in a tough to vent compartment.

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1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said:

Before you put the door panel back on, may I ask what is the possibility that the sound deadner will absorb water?  If any, I suggest you strip it out and live with the clang. I'd be overly cautious about creating a continuous wet blanket in a tough to vent compartment.

 

Boy, talk about a wet blanket! :P;)

 

The material is waterproof and will not absorb water.  You can read more about its properties here:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07786VRCL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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1 hour ago, neil morse said:

Boy, talk about a wet blanket! :P;)

 

LOL.  The material sounds great.  But I'd still take it out and here's why.

I am assuming you are not going to run an air conditioner unit in the car.  I also assume you won't intentionally take the car out when it's too hot/cold or wet.  Under those conditions,  I assume when you do take it out the windows will be opened.  At that point what good is this sound deadener?   It will have no value for it's stated purposes.

 

But, lets assume you get caught in a rain storm or wash the car.  Chances are pretty good the water will get past the felt seals on the door glasses.  Subsequently water will enter the door cavity and hopefully drain out the bottom as designed.  But now you've just insulated the door skin and thereby reduced the thermal efficiency of the sun to dry the innards of the door.  Will it dry eventually?  Yes.  How long will it take?  Unknown.  And the longer that takes to dry the better chance the adhesive on the product could be affected. 

 

If it were my choice I'd spray the inside of the door with a rubberized under spray product after plugging the drain holes with a thin wooden wedge that can be removed afterwards.  That will give one the same deadener quality if it is really needed.   But I don't even think that's needed or desirable since the door is already two panels with a third upholstery panel, which seems more than adequate for sound deadening, and chances are the windows will be open anyhow.

 

In the end though, it's not my choice.  So carry on!  The car looks fabulous! 

.

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I think since the sound deadener is stuck to the outer skin and not piled in the bottom of the door it should be fine. As you say, it's not going to get that wet and if it does, it should drain down. This is what the factory did in an inferior way, and that pile of sound-deadener he pulled out of the door was probably more of a moisture risk than this stuff glued to the skin. I'm planning on doing the same thing to my Limited, not necessarily to make it quieter at speed, but I don't like the hollow smack of the door closing--unbecoming of a limousine. My '41 Cadillac makes such a nice, solid CHUNK sound rather than a ringing WHAP. 

 

I am, however, investigating a spray-on coating to help deaden the sound. although it's hard to get inside a door like this. I like the ease of a glue-on panel, something that will attenuate the ringing of the outer panel rather than trying to make it quieter with the windows open.

 

I think he's in no real danger considering how we use our cars and, as he points out, the stuff doesn't absorb water anyway. It's probably designed to work in these situations where moisture could be a factor.

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I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything -- I'm just reporting what has worked for me and people are free to take it or leave it as they wish.  However, I will say that I used a spray undercoat product earlier on the front floor pans before I discovered the Dynamat-type material from reading Gary W.'s thread.   This is the product I used:

 

undercoat_spray.thumb.jpg.7d95f19d41eb06b3c41252efe6adebfb.jpg

 

Based on my experience (at least with this particular product), I don't think it would be anywhere near as good to deaden sound in the doors as the stuff that I used.  It's basically a rubberized paint that leaves a coating that's only about 1/8 inch thick, at most.  Also, I think it would be impractical to try to spray it into the doors -- it would create a huge mess and inevitably go where you didn't want it to go unless you spent a whole lot of time masking off areas with plastic sheeting, etc.  Not worth the time and effort, in my opinion.

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I find my 41 Century pretty good in regards to noise issues. Really the first prewar car/truck I have owned where I felt insulated from the engine bay in heat sound and smell. Most of what I hear is wind hissing around windows through old track felt and the hum of  the tires up through the floor which changes with road surface. Windows are right next to your ears and most of your door when closed is covered by sound absorbing seating. Buick has more insulation and sound absorbing interior surfaces then most and I am skeptical about improving sound deadening by lining the door panels. Insulating the floor from drive train and tire noise is always a plus.  I think fresh window felt would do more to reduce cabin noise. As previously has been said once the window is open its of no value. Correct fit door rubber seal is really important and universal is not as good as the pricey Steel Rubber supplied original seal with molded corners and bottom seal . That said I am hoping to hear the effort was worthwhile. My dads old Lincoln famous for sound attenuation was so quiet you could barely hear horns from other cars. 

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The Amazing Traveling Ferrule Tool

 

Gary W. was kind enough to lend me his ferrule seating tool, and I used it to good purpose today to properly seat the door handle ferrules on my car.  I had previously ordered new ferrules (and rubber grommets) for two of my doors from Steele, but I didn't realize at first that the ferrules had to be crimped in order to be properly seated until I learned that from Gary's thread (a source of knowledge for us all).  Here's what the ferrules and rubber grommets look like for the '41 (a bit different from Gary's '37):

 

ferrule7.thumb.jpg.9e17269a5b7ba6d4ccb136afb5c2321a.jpg

 

On the '41, the ferrule goes in between the door handle and the stainless trim strip.

 

ferrule5.thumb.jpg.9d89b63ea123dae3b98431ccc06b1650.jpg

 

ferrule4.thumb.jpg.e19553f34677148076643c1d1edfff6c.jpg

 

Four tweaks of the tool at 90 degree angles, and you're done.  The result is a nice, tight-fitting door handle.

 

ferrule6.thumb.jpg.0effb67f41135fb578b14b13173442c6.jpg

 

Hooray!  My heartfelt thanks to Gary -- I love the way people help each other out in this hobby!

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More Goodies in the Mail

 

I love having an old car project going -- every day is like Christmas!  I got some things from Doug Seybold today:  a vent regulator for the rear door to replace the one with the broken pot metal shaft, and a gauge housing for the temperature and battery gauges that I will be replacing.  Doug also supplied a reproduction ivory plastic piece for the "bowtie" in the gauge housing.

 

regulator3.thumb.jpg.41f34ddfbd42abe9f289f06edb156a74.jpg

 

new_gauge.thumb.jpg.74ef14b8bbebc6c5f79dfd2cd6d99ab6.jpg

 

Doug was a pleasure to deal with, as was his son, Nate.  They have an "old school" operation -- no email, all communications by phone.  And they send the parts first, with an invoice asking that you send a check by return mail.  Doug is also the designated BCA "advisor" for 40-41 cars, and seemed content to answer as many questions as I had to ask him (and I had a few).  I recommend him without qualification to anyone seeking parts or information about a '40 or '41.

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Monday Update

 

I took my car back to the East Bay this morning to see whether Gary's friend, Mike, could help get my right rear door to fit better and seal properly.  Long story short -- despite Herculean efforts by Mike and an assistant, they were not able to bend the door.  (I think they were using techniques that probably work with "modern" cars that are made of tin, but they were defeated by the thick sheet metal from Flint!)  However, Mike had a good suggestion, which I was able to follow after I got back home in the afternoon.  Mike suggested that I shim the lower hinge, which would push the door out a bit on the lower end and bring it in a bit at the top, where the problem is.  I followed his suggestion, with great results.

 

rear_door11.thumb.jpg.33c1c5aa29fc25718a99f729e520d11e.jpg

A couple of fender washers (trimmed to fit) pushed the bottom of the door out a bit.  (Note broken bolt in the middle -- the head broke off when I tried

to loosen it -- I'm assuming that the two remaining bolts will be sufficient to keep the door on!)

 

After making this change (and adjusting the latch hardware), the door was sealing at the top except for the last ten or so forward inches.  Much better.   I decided to just add some rubber weather strip and consider it done.  As long as it looks presentable (which it does) and keeps the water out, I feel that I have met my "reliable driver" standard.

 

I started work getting the glass back in the door, including the vent with the new rubber and the "new" vent regulator.  It's very satisfying to be putting things back instead of taking things apart.  (I know -- this is nothing compared to the kind of full restorations that others are doing, but the principle is the same.)

 

rear_door10.thumb.jpg.8387aa64c264f50b20625f239ae9c0a0.jpg

 

 

 

 

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More Doors

 

I got the right rear door all back together and sealing tight.

 

rear_door14.thumb.jpg.ecf96b85a1c188c96b93ef9b2d6cf016.jpg

 

Now time to move on to the right front.  Everything had to come out so I could put the sound deadening material in.

 

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Here's what came out of the door.

 

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Pot metal shaft on the vent window regulator broken, just like the rear door.  More $$ on the way to Doug Seybold!

 

vent_regulator2.thumb.jpg.a6c6a6e639eb71f6ea2cbb2450382d31.jpg

 

At least the old rubber wasn't rock-hard like the rear.  It came out pretty easily.

 

vent_rubber.thumb.jpg.ee9eff05a6903179758debf51537e4d9.jpg

 

My car has several different brands of laminated glass (not sure what is original).  My favorite is this one "Shat-R-Proof"

 

glass.thumb.jpg.2321241a2835845269d14ae8b0a6219d.jpg

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Friendship Day

 

I have been pretty quiet lately, just working away at various cosmetic issues, getting my doors back together, etc.  But today was my favorite old car event of the year in the Bay Area -- Friendship Day, a very informal, non-judged get together put on by the Mid Peninsula Old Time Auto Club.  Here are a few pics and videos.

 

20180520_083512.jpg.6661131e11fbd13ceb7a1a234c2e96dc.jpg 

L to R, Don Micheletti's 1918 Buick (by the way, on the cover of this month's BCA Bugle!), a '48 Super, and my '41 Super

 

 

20180520_131631.jpg.e6249ba85552b3bd9a714ba2188ae57b.jpg

 

Jim Ceasri at the wheel of his magnificent 1919 Buick Speedster.  Jim built this car himself,

using a chassis and running gear from a car that had been converted to a farm truck!

 

(Apparently, I have fun afoul of the new restrictions on posting photos, so I will try to continue with multiple posts.)

 

 

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More Friendship Day

 

Okay, I have been defeated by the new rules, which I don't understand.  I tried to post more photos in this post, but get a message that says, "You are only allowed to upload 9.77mb."  Does that mean "per day?"  Anyway, I guess that's all for today.  I have a lot more photos, and would welcome any help about how to get around the new rules.  I'm sorry, but I refuse to take the time to make my photo files smaller or compress them.  I'm sure this will be worked out.

 

 

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On 3/16/2018 at 8:44 PM, neil morse said:

More Goodies in the Mail

 

I love having an old car project going -- every day is like Christmas!  I got some things from Doug Seybold today:  a vent regulator for the rear door to replace the one with the broken pot metal shaft, and a gauge housing for the temperature and battery gauges that I will be replacing.  Doug also supplied a reproduction ivory plastic piece for the "bowtie" in the gauge housing.

 

regulator3.thumb.jpg.41f34ddfbd42abe9f289f06edb156a74.jpg

 

new_gauge.thumb.jpg.74ef14b8bbebc6c5f79dfd2cd6d99ab6.jpg

 

Doug was a pleasure to deal with, as was his son, Nate.  They have an "old school" operation -- no email, all communications by phone.  And they send the parts first, with an invoice asking that you send a check by return mail.  Doug is also the designated BCA "advisor" for 40-41 cars, and seemed content to answer as many questions as I had to ask him (and I had a few).  I recommend him without qualification to anyone seeking parts or information about a '40 or '41.

 

I've known Doug since my first foray into buying a '41 Buick back in 1999 or so. He has always been extremely helpful with information, encouragement, and even doing some work on my Century (pressing the kingpins out, for instance). He's an invaluable resource to those of us with '40 and '41 Buicks. He also has a giant boneyard behind his shop full of '40 and '41 Buicks waiting to be disassembled for parts, which is presumably where your parts came from. I'm lucky enough to have him local to me, so whenever I have questions, I can just drive over and see him or Nick or Nate or a car and get an answer. In fact, Doug and I have become friends over the years and he just sent me his personal '73 Buick Centurion convertible to sell. And as much as I'd like to finish it myself, I'm thinking that sooner or later my Century will end up in his shop for finishing. I'm probably not going to have the time to do it and I'd sure like to drive it. 

 

Anyway, glad to see you have parts you need. This is a thread I always make a point of visiting to get updates.

 

PS: Neil, I haven't taken you up on the offer of the radio button simply because I sadly sold my '41 Super convertible. Someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse and even though it broke my heart, I can't keep them all. I'll keep an eye out for a "K" for you, though!

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6 hours ago, Matt Harwood said:

PS: Neil, I haven't taken you up on the offer of the radio button simply because I sadly sold my '41 Super convertible. Someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse and even though it broke my heart, I can't keep them all. I'll keep an eye out for a "K" for you, though!

 

Thanks, Matt.  I suppose it's a good thing that you sold your convertible, even though it must have been sad to see it go!

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More Friendship Day Photos

 

20180520_090442.jpg.d3c00475e0057f335b79cc5466a1eb5f.jpg

 

Engine of Jim's 1919 Speedster

 

IMG_20180520_093708_546.jpg.ed6ccf292cb14c7b9aa80fd80cce096d.jpg

 

Ed Archer, standing in front of his 1926 Rolls

 

Here's a video of Jim's car starting up:

 

 

And a video of Don and Jim departing the event:

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
5 hours ago, neil morse said:

Here's an atmospheric pic taken by a passenger on a ride around the neighborhood yesterday.  Not much to report these days -- just driving and enjoying my Buick!

 

 

 

That's the best kind of report! :lol:

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