Blomqvistjs Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 My torqueball or joint or what is called is loose it has alot of play, how can i male it work as it should? Im based in finland nobody knows about these cars, no spareparts Everything needs to be shipped from the us and at the moment i have a small budget. Sometimes it feels like im going to loose my rear end on the road its really alot of play Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Bobs Automobilia in California will sell you all the parts you need to repair this. It’s not an easy job unless you are really handy in the shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blomqvistjs Posted November 2, 2017 Author Share Posted November 2, 2017 Have some info or a pdf with instructions? What parts do i need? Or is there a kit to get a newer axle with better gearing for todays speeds Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted November 2, 2017 Share Posted November 2, 2017 If you search here on the site, there are many discussions on the 1939 torque ball. If you search google, this site also pulls up many discussions. These cars came with 4.44 (common) gears or 3.90 (relatively uncommon option). You could be on the lookout for 3.90's if you have the 4.44 now. Also, I think someone made an overdrive setup for them at one point, not sure if they still do. I wouldn't want to drive at today's speeds with yesterdays brakes and suspension. Hopefully someone else can chime in with more info on the gearing/overdrive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blomqvistjs Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 Ive been thinking about overdrive as i live in finland we have alot of volvos. Volvo used a overdrive with electric engage button, cheap an small Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dynaflash8 Posted November 3, 2017 Share Posted November 3, 2017 On 11/1/2017 at 8:24 AM, Blomqvistjs said: My torqueball or joint or what is called is loose it has alot of play, how can i male it work as it should? Im based in finland nobody knows about these cars, no spareparts Everything needs to be shipped from the us and at the moment i have a small budget. Sometimes it feels like im going to loose my rear end on the road its really alot of play Bob's does not have ALL of the parts I don't think. First you should replace the front driveshaft (called a jackshaft by mechanics) because the teeth are no doubt worn where it connects to the transmission. Next you need to replace the torque ball mounts. Without looking, Bob's may or may not have them. The connect the yoke behind the torque ball to the chassis. Next you have to replace the rubber torque ball, and I do believe Bob's has those, however, if it has been bad long enough it may have scored the metal torque ball behind it. Hopefully that has not scored the yoke. There is a needle bearing in the front of the rear driveshaft and that should be replaced. It is a Hyatt bearing. It has two different seals that look alike but aren't. They are slightly different size I guess. When assembling you need a pack of different size paper gaskets to adjust the torque ball tightness. As I recall, they go between the metal torque ball and the yoke. See my last sentence. The last time I had what I thought was a bad torque ball, it turned out that the rear driveshaft splines where it attached to the pinion gear were worn out. When they replaced that they didn't remember to tighten all of the bolts, completely, where the torque tube attached to the back of the transmission and I had a terrible vibration until they figured it out. Finally, the shop manual explains in great detail how to make sure the whole thing is aligned. It's very easy to set this whole thing up so that you end up with a terrible vibration. Those directions talk about making sure you haven't moved the rear motor mounts, and goes into great detail to tell you that once assembled you need to test the whole driveshaft to be sure it is tight enough that it barely falls under the weight of the front shaft. Last: On the Special the standard rear end ration is 4.44, while the alternate is 3.9. On the Century the standard is 3.9 and the alternate is 3.6. You can use any of these by merely changing the whole third member. For example, many years ago I got an entire Century rear end from a junkyard and put it into my Special. My Special will run 60 easily and 65 without much trouble and 70 if I really want to push it. In the 54 years I've owned this car, the driveshaft has been the biggest source of trouble. As a result I have six nos jackshafts in the garage, a couple of rubber-covered torque balls, a number of the needle bearings and all of those seals I've been able to find. I couldn't find those the first time around in 1967....they are really scarce. I've got umpteen used yokes, and metal torque balls and even some used torque ball mounts that look useable, plus all the new ones I've been able to come across. The driveshaft is the Achilles heel of a '39 Buick 40-60 model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blomqvistjs Posted November 3, 2017 Author Share Posted November 3, 2017 Is there a good conversion to get a better rearaxle better gearratio thay isnt that hard to find spareparts for Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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