Guest Posted November 22, 2000 Share Posted November 22, 2000 I have a '65 Skylark with bad motor mounts. I live in southern california, but by car is with me at school in northern california. I ussually like to do all the work on my car myself, but I was wondering if I should have someone else replace the mounts before I leave for home. The distance is about 500 miles. What are the long term effects of driving around with bad motor mounts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest John Chapman Posted November 22, 2000 Share Posted November 22, 2000 Long term effects: Broken trans mount, manifolds, ruptured fluid lines, cracked bell housing, jammed throttle, jammed shift linkage, holed oil pan.<P>Short term effects: The same, only sooner.<P>You can get the mounts from NAPA, about $80/pair. With some determination and a bit of luck, you can put them in in 3-4 hours. I did this on my '65 (300/ST300)<P>You'll need:<BR>Tools (3/8 and 1/2 drive, 7/16,1/2,9/16,5/8 and 3/4 sockets, extensions 4,6,8 in and open/box wrenches, 16 oz hammer) and a few others, I'm sure.<BR>Large (#4) phillips head screwdriver with at least a 12" reach<BR>bottle opener<BR>Floor jack<BR>Jack stands (2 will work, 4 is better)<BR>Wheel Chocks<BR>8" piece of 2x4<BR>4" piece of 2x4<BR>Anti Seize compound<BR>Lithium Grease<BR>drop light<BR>PB Blaster<BR>Exhaust manifold gaskets (maybe)<P>Nice to have:<BR>Creeper<BR>Helper<BR>Six Pack of your favorite adult beverage. Bet you wondered about the bottle opener... (add 20 min to task completion for each beverage to number 3, then add an hour per beverage)<P>Proceed:<BR>Before doing anything with the mounts, go to the right exhaust manifold, and see if you can get it off without breaking bolts. If you can't remove the manifold, you'll have to remove the starter to get to the right side through bolt. Be careful of the choke stove pipe fitting on the manifold, it breaks very easily because it's probably half rotted anyway. Be prepared for another project, email for details. Once the manifold or starter is out of the way, you can really get started. Use PB Blaster as necessary... best to have started this a week earlier.<P>Start with the right side, remove through bolt.<P>Put the car up on jack stands. Place floor jack under the oil pan, placing the longer 2x4 flatside down on the jack head to spread the load. Make sure you are not jacking on the drain plug, or you'll dent the pan in. Begin jacking the engine up slowly, you only need about 1.5 - 2 inches. The engine will 'tilt' toward the mount that is still in place (left). Once you have enough clearance on the right mount to work, use the shorter 2x4 block as a safety stop by placing it so it will hold the engine up if jack is removed (oil pan lip worked, if I recall) Remove the old mount (two bolts on the side of the block) put new one in place and torque to specs. Slowly lower engine, watching the alignment of the throughbolt holes. You'll probably only get close. Use large phillips head to help the process along. Through bolts have a tapered end, so if you get it within 1/8" or so, you can nudge the bolt in with the hammer. Don't be too enthusiastic, or you'll bugger the treads. Replace nut and torque to spec.<P>Left side repeat as above. Working clearance is much better, so job takes a third the time (raw score, adult beverage time penalty not included).<P>With right manifold off, this is a good time to service the exhaust manifold valve per chassis manual. Lube with anti seize. Also, use anti seize on manifold bolts when/if you replace them.<P>If you break the choke stove pipe, forget finding a replacement. I wound up patching the old one (exhaust end was rotted) by cutting and splicing in a section of brake line bent to fit and joining with brass compression fittings. Save the top section, because the bends in it are very tight radius can't be reproduced easily and certainly not with a home tube bender. Tube is a slip fit into the manifold heat exhanger. There's a tenision clip that was on mine, but I couldn't find a replacement. So far, so good, though.<P>Good luck,<BR>John<P>------------------<BR>John Chapman<BR>BCA 35894<BR>1965 Skylark Convertible (Some Assembly Required)<BR> jmchapman@aol.com <p>[This message has been edited by John Chapman (edited 11-23-2000).] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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