Wheelmang

Carb rebuild instructions

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I disassembled, cleaned up, made new gaskets and reassembled the carb on my 1926 DB 6V. It looks real pretty 59efa8c1aa372_Airind.JPG.f24d4b858807177b3923a8d7e1edda82.JPG

but - still presents the same issue as before i took it apart. The car will start right up and run for a minute or so then stall out. It will not restart again for a day or so. I put it back together exactly as I took it apart but I am unsure if the carb is assembled the correct way as I see evidence of someone else being in there. Is there a set of instructions somewhere for the rebuild of the carbs on these. Am I possibly going down the wrong road in suspecting the carb is the culprit? I am also suspicious of the linkage setup. The gas pedal linkage is attached to the top part of the carb. That looks to me like the choke. Could someone please send pictures of their linkage setup? 

Thanks for looking.

Edited by Wheelmang
Additional info (see edit history)

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Sounds like it is running out of fuel. Did you check the screen at the bottom of the float bowl?

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4 minutes ago, ch1929 said:

Sounds like it is running out of fuel. Did you check the screen at the bottom of the float bowl?

Yes all clear after the rebuild.

thanks

Paul.

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Hook up to a isolated fuel supply . I had similar and was drawing large rust that blocked pickup tube . Lack of fuel ,nothing in filters.

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Agree with the others, does sound like fuel shortage.  Could be supply to the carb or carb its self.  Supply to the carb can be checked quite easily (either by disconnecting at carb or by using a separate tank temporarily).  For the carb, check the fuel float needle is moving correctly (should be down when the float bowl is full and then move up as the level drops, it could be sticking).

 

It could also be running too rich -OK for starting but then fouls the plugs and takes time to 'dry out' before it will re-start.  Less likely though and I don't think these engines are too fussy about running rich.

 

Are you using the choke at all?  The butterfly valve at the top is the throttle valve so sounds like you have your linkage correct.  The lever at the bottom is for the fuel mixture (effectively the choke).

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Suspect the condenser or coil.

Have you checked for spark?

I would check it cold and then see if its there when it doesn't start when a bit warm.

Edited by JACK M (see edit history)

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It has good spark when just turning it over. Nice blue jump from plug wire to engine at about 1/4". Newly rebuilt distributor with points and condenser. can you please advise on how to check the coil?

Thanks for the suggestions.

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Thought of another problem I had . Poor connection in fuse at back of amp gage . By-pass a good wire direct to coil and start . Mine would start and go off with load . Had to clean and soldier holders and wires .

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Sorry the pages are not in order thats the way they were copied , print then and sort in order , the diagram is two pages .Bob

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8 hours ago, ArticiferTom said:

Thought of another problem I had . Poor connection in fuse at back of amp gage . By-pass a good wire direct to coil and start . Mine would start and go off with load . Had to clean and soldier holders and wires .

I was planning on taking the amp guage out for cosmetic cleanup. Guess I'll do it a little sooner. Thanks for the tip.

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16 hours ago, Wheelmang said:

It has good spark when just turning it over. Nice blue jump from plug wire to engine at about 1/4". Newly rebuilt distributor with points and condenser. can you please advise on how to check the coil?

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

If you have a nice crisp spark when you are having the starting problem then your coil is not the culprit.

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