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53 Skylark barn find


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If that's all the details you can provide, then the car is worth very little. Until you get better photos and a description, you have to assume the floors are rusted out, the engine is no good or partly missing, the driver's side of the car is all dented up, the leather interior is chewed up or completely missing, top missing, etc.  Get my point?

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15 hours ago, Pete Phillips said:

If that's all the details you can provide, then the car is worth very little. Until you get better photos and a description, you have to assume the floors are rusted out, the engine is no good or partly missing, the driver's side of the car is all dented up, the leather interior is chewed up or completely missing, top missing, etc.  Get my point?

Looks like you're right about the seats and floors, anyway:

 

59eec77da2a0a_1049690661.jpg.c5eca2837cc4bc82ce78072dfd3df19c.jpg

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I doubt if old Jack ever paid much more than $50 to $100 for any of the cars. Papers are secondary with that stuff. I would guess the indoor storage is a fairly recent thing.

 

I know that because I have the same disease and would have started my hoard in 1971. (Not counting the six cars I left behind when I joined the Navy. They kind of disappeared.) Except for some chance diversions in my life, my family could be disposing of a fleet like that. I can see my Daughter rolling her eyes at the thought now.

 

As it is, I am thinking about building a 4' berm in front of my house.... just to slow them down when they run all my stuff to the curb.

 

Bernie

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Chances are Jack had a farm, turned into an auto salvage yard.  This was the best available, and intended for resale. Paper work exists but without Jack around, tedious to get.  I suspect a little shill work in light of some of that bidding too.  And I don't see much in the way of useable parts either.

 

Ugg!  it hurts to see this type of thing.

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Agree, it's kind of sad. I must say I can't see $22k for the Skylark. Since you can get a nice one for the neighborhood of $60k, that means if you spend more than $40k on the resto you're in the red. I assume whatever is not photographed is very bad or roached or even missing, and since there's no engine photos, I don't think it's worth it.

 

Having said that, it seems old Jack had good taste when it came to junkers. I like the 41 Century, the 40 Continental, the 48 Super Conv, the 64 Stingray. I agree the 54 Pontiac HT looks to be the best of the lot, but I bet the bidding goes too high in the end. Probably all of these are destined to be resto-mods.

 

I'm with Bernie, building my berm right now.

 

Cheers, Dave

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If it's complete. If the buyer does almost all the work himself. If he  spends whatever time it takes to save whatever is savable.  If he is a VERY shrewd shopper. If he is very resourceful. If he doesn't mind breaking even or working for peanuts.  It's doable as a restoration. ...............Or,  if the buyer has very deep pockets, will pay whatever it takes to have it restored, and doesn't care how far underwater he is it's doable as a restoration...............................Bob

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53 Skylarks , probably my favourite Buick , can't afford a restored one , so if 25/30k buys this one , I would like your opinion on what a resto shop in the US would likely charge to carry out nut and bolt restoration , I know what my max budget is so then I would know it is impossible for me and I can stop dreaming.?

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When I got my Desoto, it was worst than this car.It was completely rotted inside ,and the whole outside was completely rusted.Big holes around the fenders,also full of rust, and when I got it, it only had the engine in the engine bay. All the electrical was missing.

 

For 15k, I'd gladly take on this car....If only I had the money....

If you do have interest in having it restored by me, I'd be happy to send some before/after pictures of the Desoto.

 

Yeah, I know the chrome is in bad shape, but from what I know, chroming is really expensive.

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I know it is not yet in showcase condition,  but I think it's fairly good, considering that it was worth less than $700 when I bought it, and now the only thing that still needs to be done is chrome,trim and upholstery, and I spent less than $2000, I'm quite happy....

Lots of hours of hard work though....but it was worth it.

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2 hours ago, Pilgrim65 said:

53 Skylarks , probably my favourite Buick , can't afford a restored one , so if 25/30k buys this one , I would like your opinion on what a resto shop in the US would likely charge to carry out nut and bolt restoration , I know what my max budget is so then I would know it is impossible for me and I can stop dreaming.?

 

We restored a '53 Skylark that was in much worse condition for a client. Sometimes money isn't the only thing. Figure $150k at least for a full on show restoration. Lots of chrome on a Skylark. Complicated hydraulics, complex interior, Dynoc dash. Not an easy car to restore properly.

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27 minutes ago, Restorer32 said:

 

We restored a '53 Skylark that was in much worse condition for a client. Sometimes money isn't the only thing. Figure $150k at least for a full on show restoration. Lots of chrome on a Skylark. Complicated hydraulics, complex interior, Dynoc dash. Not an easy car to restore properly.

Many thanks ,that's what I'd imagined so can stop dreaming and get back to reality. ?

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When I was preteen(50s) my grandfather had two beautiful 53 skylarks, white/ red interior and black/ tan interior PLUS a brown 53 Roadmaster 4 dr and a beautiful 52 special 2 dr http  green with white top. Skylarks he paid $1500 each. Had them all till he died in his 80s.Great family memories in all those cars.

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Also wonder if a few of those convertibles which sold for prices which appear to me quite low , will be commercially viable projects , i.e. the Lincoln , caddy, packhard and Buick super . Particularly like the Packard . Hope whoever bought these cars will eventually post if they are going to restore.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 10 months later...

I can't believe it's been a year since I purchased the Slattery 53 Skylark at auction.

 

I really started the restoration in May/2018......lots of rust repairs...floors...rockers..

 

I got the motor to run pretty good....no smoke...transmission feels ok.....

 

I got the car in Rust Defender today.....i thought I'd post an update photo.

 

The goal is a nice driver.....so far so good....lots of work though....but having fun.

 

Thanks,   Mike B in Ct

IMG_2580[1].JPG

IMG_2581[1].JPG

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Earlier I said the body tag show a Reef Blue body and a White top and I'm going to stay with those but......

 

Can somebody weigh in and decode the tag for me?.......The "B" after the trim code....does that mean it had a black top?

 

And if indeed it had a black top.....wouldn't the White look better............or do I stay with the black and keep it original??

 

Thanks,  Mike

 

image.png.16bc502848852d532ed4081d1bfb115b.png

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On ‎11‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 4:12 PM, Our Buicks said:

Earlier I said the body tag show a Reef Blue body and a White top and I'm going to stay with those but......Can somebody weigh in and decode the tag for me?.......The "B" after the trim code....does that mean it had a black top?  And if indeed it had a black top.....wouldn't the White look better............or do I stay with the black and keep it original??  Thanks,  Mike

 

image.png.16bc502848852d532ed4081d1bfb115b.png

 

Good progress in a short period of time since the auction, Mike. Yes, the "B" on the TRIM Code line is for a BLACK convertible top.

 

Convertible tops for 1953-1954 Buick Skylarks and other select marques were a DuPont ORLON® three-layered fabric with a waterproof membrane between the outer and under-layers. A Black underlayer (some call it a headliner or underliner) was standard for Black 1953-1954 Buick Skylark convertible tops. Orlon tops are not available these days. My opinion is that a Black top with the Reef Blue paint just doesn't look right but it's definitely easier to keep it looking clean if you're building a driver. Stark-white tops look good but as you might know, they are a #$%@!  to keep them clean-looking. I personally would not buy another White convertible top. 

 

You might want to consider an OYSTER WHITE or TAN Haartz cloth top. Both would compliment the Reef Blue paint more-so than a Black top IMO. Plenty to choose from in the following link . . . http://www.robbinsautotopco.com/toppings-hst.php   Good luck.

 

Al Malachowski

BCA #8965

"500 Miles West of Flint"

Edited by 1953mack (see edit history)
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Thanks guys for weighing in on the top color.......

 

I went searching for blue 1953 Skylarks with white or a black top.........founds lots of white and only a few with the black top.....

 

Check this one out.....it might be Glacier Blue with a the black top but,......it's not as bad as I thought it might look....what do you think?

 

image.png.589a927076569dfece2fd5799cf19378.png

 

Thanks, Mike

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It looks great on a white background.  I'm pretty sure it will look great out on the road too, since chances are you will probably have the top down while driving it.  Just paint the walls of your garage white. :D

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52 minutes ago, Our Buicks said:

Thanks guys for weighing in on the top color.......

 

I went searching for blue 1953 Skylarks with white or a black top.........founds lots of white and only a few with the black top.....

 

Check this one out.....it might be Glacier Blue with a the black top but,......it's not as bad as I thought it might look....what do you think?

 

image.png.589a927076569dfece2fd5799cf19378.png

 

Thanks, Mike

What color is the interior ? white with blue, with black , ???

Bill

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56 minutes ago, Barney Eaton said:

For those of that live in the south and do not have "rust" ......what is rust defender

Hi Barney,........This car is from Wisconsin and I've seen worse in New England.....

 

Your lucky you don't have to deal with this crap....here is a pretty good description of Rust Defender......It's a high build primer that really does a good job of sealing the bare metal.

 

https://www.clausenautobody.com/proddetail.php?prod=rust-defender

 

Mike

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Originally many cars came with asphaslt-rubber based undercoating, and were certainly extremely durable and heavy duty.

I personally like to undercoat my cars with that stuff inside and out. It's commonly called 'rubberized asphalt undercoating'.

Just be aware that some of them are not sprayable.

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Mike I agree with Al the white top is a pain to put it lightly on keeping them looking good.  Black is what I have on my Chevy convertible the only downside is they are hotter than blazes in the sun but it is a convertible easy fix. One thing I should have researched is the rear window they are easy to put marks in maybe I am doing something wrong but it happens.  I wish they had a zipper in the bottom panel so the window could  be removed then it could be put it in some type of protective cover, or be changed it if is needed. This is one of my research projects on my soft-top project when I get to it. The rear window is one of the first things that will show use at least it does in my case, Early morning drives require the top up here in the northwest.

Mike will you stick with the hydraulic system for the windows and seat, I have heard of the windows being converted from hydraulic to an electric set up. I have not seen a car converted yet.

Keep posting pictures like to see how you are doing.

Steve     

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