mikewest

Leather Hides - Super Quality and Price ! Check this site out!

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https://www.discountleatherhides.com/  I needed some hides for my 1910 Mitchell restoration and found this supplier .After talking with him and finding out details I bought 2 - 55 sf  hides with a medium sheen Graphite Black for $55.00 each ! They were $225.00 marked down to get sold. He has 700 of these hides as of today. He accepts full refunds within 7 days.  I cant be happier with what I bought! . Check out the link provided. The owner is the guy on the other end of the phone!

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To bad the red isn't on sale.  I would buy them incase I get to do the Hudson's pickups interior.  I know vinyl is probably fine in a Pickup but at that price,  why would you use Vinyl when you could do it in Leather.  

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This does look like a very good deal, but I feel that one buying leather for automotive use should be informed.

 

He does state that it's "automotive" quality, so that's a plus.

 

If you look at details, the leather hides being offered are stated as "1 mm" in thickness.  This equates to a 2.5 ounce leather (2.5 ounce weight per square foot of leather), a VERY thin leather hide.  This leather would be 2.5/64" thick.

 

Also, be aware that there are a lot of different methods of processing leather hides.  These are probably not top grain, but rather the cuts below the top.....a raw leather hide is thick and is cut into layers, so when you're buying a "hide", you're either buying the top cut (top grain) or one of the lower cuts, processed to have a finished side.

 

My purpose of stating this is not to rain on anyone's parade, just remember the adage that you get what you pay for.  The labor cost will be the same, whether it's an inexpensive hide or a more expensive hide, and you want to make sure the materials you use stand up to the intended purpose.  The cost of the hides is usually a small percentage of the overall upholstery job.

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David, as usual a very informative post. 

 

Do you know where we can find some old worn leather or a process to make new leather look old for a 30's single seat race car?

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I would suggest calling the owner and visit with him. He is  very anxious to do business. Im not  an upholsterer but I have bought hides for several high end restorations and they satisfied me. You are correct that only the Graphite Black is on sale.  

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27 minutes ago, Steve Moskowitz said:

Steve, You might check with a high end furniture store. They may have "traded in" a worn leather sofa or large chair that would have the leather you are looking for.

 

Do you know where we can find some old worn leather or a process to make new leather look old for a 30's single seat race car?

 

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54 minutes ago, trimacar said:

This does look like a very good deal, but I feel that one buying leather for automotive use should be informed.

 

He does state that it's "automotive" quality, so that's a plus.

 

If you look at details, the leather hides being offered are stated as "1 mm" in thickness.  This equates to a 2.5 ounce leather (2.5 ounce weight per square foot of leather), a VERY thin leather hide.  This leather would be 2.5/64" thick.

 

Also, be aware that there are a lot of different methods of processing leather hides.  These are probably not top grain, but rather the cuts below the top.....a raw leather hide is thick and is cut into layers, so when you're buying a "hide", you're either buying the top cut (top grain) or one of the lower cuts, processed to have a finished side.

 

My purpose of stating this is not to rain on anyone's parade, just remember the adage that you get what you pay for.  The labor cost will be the same, whether it's an inexpensive hide or a more expensive hide, and you want to make sure the materials you use stand up to the intended purpose.  The cost of the hides is usually a small percentage of the overall upholstery job.

 

What he said.

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David, thank you for the information, really appreciate the comments, it gives all of us first hand expert knowledge as to what to expect and look for.

I have a close friend that owns a high end restoration shop and he has his own in house upholstery shop. The cost of the material is small when compared to the labor involved to

to a proper correct job the first time. As stated, you get what you pay for. I have tremendous respect for all the craftsman in our hobby who take a sincere interest

in what they do , be it upholstery, body work, paintwork, parts and  metal fabrication etc. and every one that I have had the privilege to meet is genuinely interested in the project they are working on.

It is more then just "another job" to them, they take tremendous pride in what they are doing.

Mike thank you as well for giving us all a heads up about the leather as well, it will meet the requirements of a number of people I am sure.

 

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6 hours ago, Steve Moskowitz said:

David, as usual a very informative post. 

 

Do you know where we can find some old worn leather or a process to make new leather look old for a 30's single seat race car?

There are many methods for aging, or distressing, leather.  A quick Google search will bring up some DIY sites.

 

Also, many companies sell "distressed" leather.....here's just one of them:

 

http://www.carrollleather.com/distressed-leather

 

Finding someone taking some original leather out of a car is always an option, but usually by the time that happens the old leather is so dry and brittle you wouldn't want to use it.

 

There are also a few experts out there who can weather things to look old, from upholstery to paint....but I can't name names on that one!  You've probably seen their work, and may or may not have realized it...

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David, Im surprised you would endorse Carroll Leather  when the very hides that you  recommended to Restorer32 are advertised as thinner that the hides I bought and more than 5 times as much money. What I have in hand and are top notch quality. Ive learned after almost 60 years of living not to believe every expert  opinion. Ive learned my lessons by actions and not words of others. My only reason that I posted about the black graphite hides I bought as they are great quality , great size and a great price. I really wish I didn't say anything about them and just used them. My motive was to bring to light the sellers web site as I was impressed with the what he sold me and the great service I received and the great total refund promise if I wasn't happy. Im not trying to get into a volley of words , just setting the record straight. Have a good afternoon! Your friend , Mike West

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Seems like McDonald's should be able to offer a heck of a deal on hides. Maybe part of a sustainability or resource optimization program. Just thinkin', you know.

Bernie

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3 hours ago, mikewest said:

David, Im surprised you would endorse Carroll Leather  when the very hides that you  recommended to Restorer32 are advertised as thinner that the hides I bought and more than 5 times as much money. What I have in hand and are top notch quality. Ive learned after almost 60 years of living not to believe every expert  opinion. Ive learned my lessons by actions and not words of others. My only reason that I posted about the black graphite hides I bought as they are great quality , great size and a great price. I really wish I didn't say anything about them and just used them. My motive was to bring to light the sellers web site as I was impressed with the what he sold me and the great service I received and the great total refund promise if I wasn't happy. Im not trying to get into a volley of words , just setting the record straight. Have a good afternoon! Your friend , Mike West

I didn't "recommend" Carroll Leather, I was just pointing out to Steve M. that there are distressed leather suppliers out there.

 

Also, my comments were not meant to attack you or the supplier, just pointing out that when you're putting leather into an antique car, there are numerous things to consider.  If those hides meet your needs, then fine, and they may well meet the needs of many people, so thank you for sharing the information.

 

I've also seen where people spent a lot of labor to restore an interior, and used inferior leather, or fabric store material, that wasn't suited for the application.

 

I apologize if you think this was a personal "attack", it was not meant that way....

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Mike,

Thanks a lot for passing this on.  I recently bought a walking-foot sewing machine.  These hides will be great to practice and learn diamond tufting this winter.  If my work turns out good enough to use on the Maxwell, then I will. 

If it doesn't look so good, then I will not have wasted some real expensive leather. 

Andrew

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Hides arrived today.  I am very pleased with them.  Thanks again for the lead!

 

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10 hours ago, nick8086 said:

If you hit the contact link..

 

The have no phone number or address..

 

Just my two cents..

Here it is, found via Google search. BTW a review there states this is an online-focused business, no walk-ins.


Discount Leather Hides
Address: 3110 Cullman Ave, Charlotte, NC 28206
Phone: (704) 347-1718

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I am not a leather expert at all . But I spoke to a leather salesman about 20 years ago when the damaged leather chair look was all the rage . He said that the best hides came out of Argentina . As they let their cows - bulls roam around for about 5 years in the country side grazing banging into trees and fences to graze . They get that nice damaged look . Then they slaughter and take the hides . The American cows - bulls are Hormone fed and it takes about 2 ? years to get to the size of what the Argentina cow takes 5 years to grow . Just my 2 cents worth .

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I did the same thing and googled the name and got the address.I live about an hour away so I called and asked if I could purchase a couple hides in person. Patrick,the owner, told me it was an old building with no retail area, but allowed me to pick them up there. It is an old warehouse, and filled with all kinds and colors and sizes of leather. Patrick wasn't there, but his 2 employees were great, and treated me great. 

  I really don't know anything about thickness of leather etc. but it seems real nice to me. I also bought a used walking foot machine, and hope to make some seat covers.

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This all sounds very encouraging!  A couple of days ago I ordered two hides, I'm very interested to see the quality....I always have jobs that need black leather.....in fact have some top bows for a teens car now that need leather covering...

 

Thanks Mike for posting, sounds like you've helped numerous people!

 

My advice on a walking foot machine, change pulleys so that you can sew slow.  Most machines are set up for industrial work where speed is the necessity, not precision.  My Pfaff has a very small drive pulley, and I can do a stitch at a time.

 

The newer servo motors can be set up to do the same, but I'm not comfortable with them.  I used one once, I'm sure I could get used to it, but what I do now works so don't want to change, that's the old fashioned way I guess!

 

Upholstery and trim work is not difficult, you need to know a few tricks, and you need to have patience, and you need to be able to take apart two hours of work and start over if it's not correct....and you need to be able to visualize the job as finished so that you know how to proceed.  Not difficult, but if one is frustrated easily then it might be best to do what one does best to make the money and then pay the trimmer!!

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4 hours ago, trimacar said:

My advice on a walking foot machine, change pulleys so that you can sew slow.  Most machines are set up for industrial work where speed is the necessity, not precision.  My Pfaff has a very small drive pulley, and I can do a stitch at a time.

 

The newer servo motors can be set up to do the same, but I'm not comfortable with them.  I used one once, I'm sure I could get used to it, but what I do now works so don't want to change, that's the old fashioned way I guess!

 

Clutch motors are really difficult to control for beginners. In addition to considerations of the pulley size, the motors come in 2 different speeds.,1725rpm and 3450rpm. 3450 is a bad idea IMHO. Most machines I have used that had 3450rpm motors couldn't run that fast without breaking the thread and/or tying a knot, even if you were doing something mindless enough that you could keep the material coming.

 

I have never used a servo, but since you can just set the speed it sounds like probably the best idea for someone who just wants to buy a machine and dabble.

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If you really get into sewing automotive upholstery, do some research on correct needles and threads to use. 

 

A leather needle has a triangular point, to pierce the leather.  A fabric needle has a rounded point, to slide between weave of fabric.  That's just the basic statement, I have a book in my library that's 240 pages discussing different needles and stitches!!

 

As to thread, don't just use something you buy at the fabric store.  For automotive use, the standard is #69, and it should be UV resistant thread.

 

If you wish to do trim work, learn the craft from the basics, otherwise your work might just be sew-sew!

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On 10/16/2017 at 8:59 AM, Steve Moskowitz said:

David, as usual a very informative post. 

 

Do you know where we can find some old worn leather or a process to make new leather look old for a 30's single seat race car?

 

 Check craigslist under "FREE'.

 Look for old leather furniture, just what you want. (excellent price too!)

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Years ago I got samples of leather, for my Studebaker, from a very prominent US supplier. They looked great, and were on sale too. I checked with my upholsterer and he liked what he saw. We liked what we saw so well that ordered enough to do two cars. We were really impress when we got the hides, even though they were different color then the ones we ordered, but they were going to work nicely regardless of color differences. When we laid out the hides we began to see problems. There were anomalies in every hide, wire cuts etc. The upshot was that even with very careful layout we were lucky to be able to get the one car done. I was just fortunate that I had ordered the extra leather from the same lot when I had the chance.

 

My experience taught me that that I needed to be careful. There are a number of variables in leather selection, not the least of which is the quality of the restoration. What is fine for a driver may not be good enough for a Pebble Beach restoration.  

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