Speedster Builds.............

[Mark Shaw]

22 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

Do you know what pressure it generates? I have a period pressure gauge that goes up to 4 lbs. that I'd like to incorporate into the system.

Pressure to the tank depends on how restrictive your muffler is, but I think Chris is about right at 1 PSI .  My 13 Buick likes to run up hills with the cut-out open, but if I am running low on gas, I close the cut-out to help pressurize the fuel.  Running out of gas on a hill is no fun in a car that is so hard to turn around with the engine not running while making a three point turnaround.

[Chris Bamford]

2 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Do you happen to have any pictures of your exhaust pressurized fuel system?  I would be anxious to see how you did the install.  Al

 

Sorry no. This was 15 years ago (yikes).

 

From memory, a cone scoop about 3/4" diameter was located downstream of the manifold and early in the horizontal exhaust pipe upstream of the cutout and muffler.

 

This scoop funneled through the exhaust pipe wall into copper tubing of about 1/8" ID. The flexible tubing wound up and around for maybe 5' to the filler area of the fuel tank under the front seat. I understand some 1912 KisselKars were built with the exhaust pressurizing a rear-mounted fuel tank.

 

The pressure line was plumbed into the top of the tank in the filler area. The  gas cap has an O-ring machined into the underside to contain the pressure.

 

IMO there is basically zero chance that the necessary combination of:  Spark, Oxygen %, Flammable vapour %, flow rate, sustained heat generation, etc. could occur to cause combustion or an explosion. What many people fail to appreciate is that there is very little actual flow of exhaust toward the tank. Maybe a gallon of exhaust over 12-15 miles of driving to replace fuel consumed. That exhaust gas is not going to be hot when it reaches the tank. And it's sure not going to have much oxygen content.

 

Having said that I really like Mark's spark arrestor description and would definitely use one in any future system.

 

_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _

 

I was fortunate to find a slightly patinated nickle fuel pressure pump years ago and love it. Pump is mounted on the rear outside corner of the driver's seat, an easy reach and not at all awkward to pump. Up to 2 lb is easy but unnecessary. Being able to pre-pressure the fuel system after long standing is a plus. I use an aquarium aerator line check valve to maintain pressure, although I suspect it of a bit of back leakage.

 

The carburetor will cough a bit on acceleration when the pressure is wanting but 3-4 quick strokes brings it right up. This repeats every few minutes and is an enjoyable part of the driving experience. It's also quite a curiosity for many passengers.

[alsfarms]

Nice thoughts are being shared here.  I have heard of exhaust pipe presured systems.  My system as found forward on page 9 uses compressed gas taken from an active cylinder under compression.  My Locomobile engine has a port for just such a thing.  I have a second car project needing a similar system that I am interested in building.  This second system would be a more true exhaust gas system, the same as Chris and Mark have described.  If anyone has pictures to post here it would be nice.

Al

[alsfarms]

Here is a picture of the "flame arrestor" that Mark has used on one of his projects.  This unit could certainly be built with ease and would keep any hot stuff from making the way to the fuel tank.  This system is used to deliver fuel to the carb.   It works by using exhaust gas to push pressure in to the fuel tank and thus forcing fuel up to the carb.  Any other fellows using exhaust gas to pressurize the fuel tank?

Al

[alsfarms]

Using the above picture as a guide, I went over to our favorite site to buy parts and see that this very in-line filter assembly is very available.  I will be buying one of them for use on my next project......down the road.

Al

[alsfarms]

The above little in-lime fuel filter is a novel and decent way to block any hot things migrating towards the fuel tank for this application.  Does anyone else have additional thoughts of ideas about an exhaust pressurized fuel system that will push fuel up to the carburetor?

Al

[alsfarms]

More information,  Refer to EBAY item number 172963064030 for one of these glass inline fuel filters.  This one has hose barbs on each end but these fittings could be changed out that would allow a different fitting type to minimize any potential for leaking after install.  For a little over 7 dollars, this piece is affordable.

Al

[alsfarms]

I am curious about the maximum pressure that can be developed in an exhaust pressure supplied fuel delivery system.  Would someone who has built this type system make a comment.  Is it possible to get 2 or 3 PSI or not.

Al

[alsfarms]

While exploring our favorite shopping area, EBAY, I noticed two original photographs that depict a very similar Locomobile to what I am restoring.  My car is a 1909 Locomobile Model L which does not have front doors.  These new purchased pictures are of a 1911 or 1912 Model Locomobile Modle L which has the front doors.  This are nice old original pictures with writing that suggest the lady in the pictures is likely Aunt Nellie and from 1913 or 1914.  Does anyone have an Aunt Nellie who originally had a 1911 or 1912 Locomobile  Baby Tonneau.  I will repost a picture of a 1909 Locomobile Toy Tonneau, as it left the factory, and then follow with the two pictures I just purchased.

Al

[alsfarms]

1909 Locomobile Model L Toy Tonneau, from the factory

[alsfarms]

!911 or 1912 Locomobile Model L Toy Tonneau (after a couple of years use by Aunt Nellie and family)

#1

[alsfarms]

1911 or 1912 Locomobile Model L Toy Tonneau

#2

[alsfarms]

Note:  With the photographs enlarged, I notice that the headlamps appear to have been replaced with an early electric and look very similar to Gray and Davis.  Probably to improve the lighting while driving a speed after dark?  These cars are not true speed cars but they are very capable cars back in the day and also in our current times.  It also looks like the right front fender has had a little kiss with a fence or something as it is not riding in the correct position.  Can any Sherlock Holmes, among us, determine the state this car was licensed in and potentially who this Locomobile was licensed to back in the day?  Maybe more history is available to make these photographs even more interesting!

Al

Edited June 26, 2019 by alsfarms
addition for clarity (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

20 hours ago, alsfarms said:

Probably to improve the lighting while driving a speed after dark?

Maybe just as simple as lack of bother to light the gas lights and source the carbide for them. Electric is very clean!

[alsfarms]

I thought I would share a bit of wood work I completed for a 2 cylinder Cleveland Rear Entrance project.  This was my first "kinds" sophisticated wood working project.  This is a finger joint coil box designed to fit the more common sized Model T Brass top coils.  It turned out good for a beginner.  My question here, what does this collective group suggest for a finish?

Al

[babychadwick]

What is your goal for the finish?  Simple protection would be to paint it.  There of course are variations of stain/varnish, or are you trying to make it look old?

[alsfarms]

My plans for this coil box would be for it to be an accurate representation of what would have been used/found in the era from 1900 to 1915.  I want the color to be a nice rich honey red color, protecting the box from the blazing sun and dry heat that we have here in the west.  Should it get some rain on it, I do not want it to show water spots or other dulling.  Paint is a no......  I know that Polyurethane repels water nicely but I am not sure about the UV qualities.  What are the thoughts here?

Al

[babychadwick]

Spar Varnish

[alsfarms]

I will need to study up on the characteristics of "Spar" varnish.  I am guessing that it does not dull or go cloudy in the sun and that it is water repellent?  How clear does it go on?

Al

[Terry Harper]

Hello Alan, Nice work!

 

I would second a good quality marine spar varnish. I use it to protect the epoxy on my wood kayaks. Without the spar varnish it would turn cloudy.

I am actually in the process of re-varnishing one kayak now. It was last done about 10 years ago. Its not because the varnish failed its due to

a unexpected encounter with a rock requiring the repair of a hole Along with taking care of numerous scratches etc. from day to day use.

 

If it does get dull or needs re-doing just wet sand and re-apply.

 

 

 

[babychadwick]

Check west marine if there is one near you and you will find different options.  Typically it last about 1 year down here before it needs redoing.  Of course that is down in the FL keys with sun doing its best to kill it nearly every day of the year.  Looking at my little whaler the front board exposed to the sun is bad, I'll need to sand it down and recoat again but the rest that was under the shade looks outstanding.  I did both at the same time.

[alsfarms]

Hello,  Terry, how do I know a "ggod" Spar Varnish from a "so-so" Spar varnish?  Is it brand name or other?

Al

[Terry Harper]

Alan,

 

As mentioned earlier you want one for Marine use. I have used Interlux with good results. If you really want to weather proof It you

could epoxy saturate the wood and use the varnish as a UV protectant. West Systems or MAS epoxies will work well. - brush on-sand

and varnish.

 

 

 

 

 

[AHa]

Al, you're going to want to stain your box first. I would think minwax early american would give you the right color but you will want to try a scrap piece first to see how it goes on. Let that dry thoroughly, at least two days, then apply your varnish. I think I would recommend the West System epoxy to thoroughly seal your box. You could see if they have a kit that has UV protection built in. I would not think your Cleveland will ever see enough sun to bother the West System.

[babychadwick]

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/epifanes--clear-high-gloss-varnish--P004_128_001_002?recordNum=1

 

A cheaper alternative

 

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/z-spar--z-spar-1015-captain-s-varnish--P004_128_001_505?recordNum=2

 

 

[AHa]

Al, you might want to consider using some wood conditioner before applying the stain. The end grain of the wood will stain darker than the straight grain unless you use some conditioner. That might not be a concern as you don't know how the wood will accept stain untill you try a piece of test wood. Sanding closes the pores of wood and causes it to accept less stain.

[babychadwick]

Wet the wood then dry it with hear, a stove burner works.  This will raise the grains that are curried due to sanding.  Use some fine steel wool to smooth it out, do it several times and the stain/varnish will adhere better.

[alsfarms]

I am guessing that your wet/heating to dry method is meant to open the grain to accept the stain and finish?  Just enough heat to dry but not scorch the wood?  Sounds like you have some definite experience with wood refinishing!

Al

[JV Puleo]

"Whiskering" is commonly done to gun stocks before finishing. As Chadwick says, it allows the varnish to adhere better and smoother. Red Oak has a very open grain so you''ll probably have to do it several times.

Edited July 15, 2019 by JV Puleo (see edit history)

[babychadwick]

You are both correct, I have done some playing with wood and "other materials"

[alsfarms]

Hello Joe,  I have never heard of "whiskering" !   Can you provide any more hints or procedures that I should utilize when applying finish to the box?  Before starting that process, how smooth should I have sanded the surface to be finished, 180, 360, 600 grit?  Then do the "whiskering"?  Or do I stop at 60 or 80 grit before starting the "Whiskering"?

Al

[Spinneyhill]

The wood workers guild call it "De-whiskering". Plenty of information on the www.

[AHa]

Al, I think we are getting a little overboard now. If you can see the sanding marks on your piece you need to go to a finer sandpaper. Usually 120 on oak is fine enough. Oak is already an open grain wood and although sanding closes the grain it shouldn't close it enough to keep the wood from accepting stain. As I said before, take a piece of the oak you cut your box out of, sand it like you did the box, and apply a small amount of stain to one small area to see how you like the color and if you can see the marks from the sandpaper. The end grain of your box will take more color than the straight grain because the end grain is all open pours. Therefore, the end grain will be darker unless you use some wood conditioner which is the same as wetting and then drying. The remaining water keeps the wood from absorbing to much stain. Water will also cause the wood grain to stand up, which means it has to then be sanding again. The wood conditioner from Minwax is a much better product for beginners. These guys who are advising you have been working with wood for many years. They are experts but you aren't starting a cabinet shop, you just want to finish one piece. Staining an varnishing have always worked for me. Just look at any coil that is now over 100 years old. It is not the finish that goes bad, it is the wood that warps from lack of oils.

 

I have worked with wood now for 40 years and have never de whiskered. If you use a coat of sanding sealer after your stain you can then go back with 0000 steel wool and smooth it out, or just use the 0000 after the first coat of varnish.

Edited July 15, 2019 by AHa (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

I remember our woodwork teacher showing us how to make and use a scraper to finish wood. It gave a very smooth finish. You can make your own scraper out of a stiff flat blade painting or ... tool. I did and it was xclnt for scraping paint off furniture to give a lovely smooth finish.

 

He also also showed us how to de-whisker although I don't remember that term being used: sand as above, clean dust away and wipe with a damp cloth. Come back tomorrow and sand with next grade finer. If it feels really smooth after this, it should feel smooth after stain is applied. If you don't de-whisker, it will feel and look rough after finishing with any liquid thin enough to soak into the wood.

[alsfarms]

Here is an old picture of one of the "Premier" early American Speedsters, the Locomobile 16.  Enjoy....

Al

[alsfarms]

Here is another nice You Tube clip showcasing the Locomobile 16 race car.  It doesn't get any better than this!!!!!

Al

 

[AHa]

This car does not appear to have been restored so why in the world would anyone think to polish the brass would be appropriate? My opinion: it takes away from an otherwise great car!

[JV Puleo]

Tarnish, the copper/zinc oxide on brass, is a form of corrosion. It isn't as invidious as rust on ferrous metals but it's still corrosion. I'd polish the brass too, though just enough to keep the tarnish under control. Old 16 most certainly hasn't been restored. I saw it running once, about 30 years ago when it still belonged to Peter Helck's son. It was very impressive...you could feel the ground shaking if you stood near it.

[alsfarms]

I was at the Ford Museum a few years back and Greenfield Village.  What a PLACE!!!!!  It was great to be as close as the rope to the Old Locomobile 16.  Unrestored, sure but it does sure give you a feel for what it was like in the early days of automobile development!   I will try to sort through my raft of pictures and post my own pictures of Locomobile 16 if I can find them.

Al

[Karsten - Seagrave]

Hi there, my Seagrave gearbox  is leaking oil from the shifting shafts. I did not recognize this when I overhauled it and now am not able to take the shaft junctions appart to adapt a seal... How can I seal it now? I appreciate a hint.