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Speedster Builds.............


alsfarms

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Hi Al,  I need rims to fit these cast wheels.  They are an inch or so wider across the wedges than any of the rims I now have.  I would imagine they would be in the heavy duty series . Either the early style rim with both side rings removable or the later ones with only the outer removable are fine with me. 

  Yes there always seems to be those jobs that must get done getting in the way of what we would like to be doing.  The Formula Ford is fun and if I don't get it going soon I am going to be to old to be anything but a hazard out on the track.  The Staver and the Packard still have a twenty year window {I hope!}.

  The wheels are factory options on the later Packards, I also need the front cast wheels just in case you ever stumble across a pair, for now I have a pair of cut down wood wheels with aftermarket steel fellows which were sold to convert solid tire trucks to Firestone pneumatic rims.

The truck in the photo belongs to David Lockard , he is the guy who organises the Packard truck owners assn.1920_Packard_stake_body_Truck.jpg

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Hello Greg,

It is raining and too miserable to get pictures and measurements for you from the 24" Firestone rims I have.   I will try for pictures tomorrow unless we have an abundance of snow.   Do you have the wedge rings that lock the rim onto the  wheel with the lug nuts?   If you don't and if what I have works, I may be able to dig up a set that will work with the rims I have.

Al

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Hi Al, sounds good , I have a couple of the wedge rings but not a full set. I also have only have about 1/2 of the clamp plates that go in between the lug nuts and the rings. The rings look like something I can probably make , however if you have some you don't need I would be interested in them as well. 

 

Greg

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Hello Greg,  Please see the attached pictures of the 24" Firestone 6" wide mid sized Firestone truck rims I have.  I have a pair of these rims.    I also have a set of four one ton rims that are in very good shape.  Greg, If I dig deep enough, I think I may have the lug stud castings you are missing.  I am kinda sure I have the bead rings, lock rings and also the wedge rings to mount up the two 6" wide rims.  If you have an interest in the rim stuff, contact me on my regular email: alsfarms@hotmail.com .

Al

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While hunting up rims pieces, I ran across the complimentary side lamps and tail lamp for my Speedster project and thought I would share a picture or two of them.  The OD is 7", the lens ID is 5.5".  The tail lamp is a matching style but is 5" OD.  The Gray and Davis headlamps, shown earlier, are 12" OD.  These lamps will be bright nickel plated and should look nice with the German Silver radiator.  Most of the rest of the small bitsy things will also be nickel plated.  I hope to have no exposed brass for this speedster project.

Al

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Here are pictures of a pair of large series 24" Firestone truck rims.  Both need a bit of love but are  repairable.  These are what the builder of a heavy truck would want but maybe not so much for a speedster builder as these are for heavy applications.

Al

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OK,  back to the dash mount oil flow sight gauge needed for a first run on the Locomobile engine.  A good friend had just what I needed and I now have it in hand to get it cleaned up and ready for the first start event.  I will be removing the nickel plating and polish the brass to keep with the correct era for my car.

Al

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  • 3 weeks later...

OK, I have some pieces that can be built into another project.  The bad thing is I do not have a suitable frame from which to start for that second project.  Please study the attached pictures particularly the kick up over the rear axle and the transition area at the back of the engine area.  These two frame profiles I would like to match as closely as I can.  Note:  the early Dodge Bros. frame has a very similar profile where the gets wider at the front.  I would prefer NOT to use the Dodge Bros. frame as it is not as heavy duty as what I would like to use.  If you have an old "odd" or "unidentified" frame that is designed close to the frame in my pictures, please drop me a note and send some pictures.  Thanks in advance for your thoughts and time.

Al

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

You have a very good eye for detail!  The top jug water covers are just set in place but will be oriented correctly when plumbed to the radiator.  We should have the ignition system together soon and just about be ready for the first run.  The oiling system is all finished now and works like a "CHARM".  Note: this engine, being a 1909, was originally run with the make and break system.  I will not be using that system.

Al

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Sorry I didn't answer quicker but I just was scrolling thru when I saw it. I had a 1920 6 cylinder, 1000 gpm rotary gear pumper, 3 spark plugs per cylinder, crank start or battery. Sold to Hal Fillinger. Have a few brand new TT10 spark plugs and some older used ones that came from the engine. Also have the old Schebeler carb that weighs about 25 lbs.

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  • 1 month later...

Here are a few update pictures on the reb. of Locomobile engine.  These pictures show the rebuilt 4 cylinder Delco two spark distributor in place with a matching gear machined to allow for perfect timing.  It is going to be close to fit the carb. but that will also work.  Pictures on the carb. later.  This Delco unit running two sets of spark plugs will make a very nice runner out of this engine.  Pictures later of the oiling system and temp starter system.

Al

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Does anyone know of any loose 25" 6 lug, lock ring style disc wheels.  I know of a speedster project that could use a set of these wheels.  I think Studebaker and Nash used a very similar wheel that would work (maybe other makes such as Franklin and Packard also).

Al

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  • 2 weeks later...

I thought I would show an oiling system upgrade for this engine.  It replaces the action of the original drip oiler with a full pressure system that could put out 50 PSI.  50 PSI oil pressure would put too much pressure on the system drive so we have set the pressure at 25 PSI.  You can roll over the pump easily by hand.  25 PSI puts a very healthy flow of oil to all the bearings.  This system was designed and put together by the late Dave H. from the Chicago area.  It is sad that he is not longer with us.  His design is an EXCELLENT improvement over the old style drip oiler.  This same system could be fitted to most any "T" head design engine using a bit of creativity.  This oil pump is added just in front of the flywheel in each picture.  we left the original oiler in place and plumbed the piping so it appears proper and correct.  You will also see the first attempt at installation of a belt driven starter/generator.  This attempt is a failure.  The "Cub" type modern starter/generator does not have the beans to roll over this engine.

Al

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  • 2 weeks later...

The next update will be the fabrication of the spark plug leads wiring loom.  I do not want the top of the engine looking like a cluttered mess with spark plug leads going every which way to service two sets of spark plugs.   Here is what I am thinking of to build for the Locomobile, the engine in the picture is of a Simplex.  Does anyone else have a good idea for building a spark plug lead loom?

Al

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Al... I'd use red phenolic tubing rather than brass. It is very similar to the material often used in period and has the added advantage of not conducting electricity. I have in mind to make something quite similar.

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Hello Joe,  What have you been up to lately?  I have a few castings that would serve to hold two wood slats, together, that are hollowed to then hold the leads in a specific order and distribute them where needed along the side of the engine.  It would be a piece of "cake" to build a couple of them out of wood and they would look nice.  I do know that if I decide to go with wood, I will need to have a few additional casting poured.  If anyone is interested, in a few of those castings, drop me a note.  I will try to post a picture of what I have when I can get them out of storage.

Al

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Hello Alan,

 

This is the setup I will be using. I have the castings for the brackets - just (as usual) need time to get at them!

 

 

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The brackets simply take the place of a screw in each of the cover plates.

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Its hidden by the hood but you can see the tube carrying the wires down to the magneto

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and a poor quality but overall view

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Hello Terry,  Did you pour any extra of the brackets you have shown above?  That system looks nice, but the Locomobile is designed differently than the Wisconsin and probably would take more work than it would be worth to use them.  I would like to replicate your brackets for the Model M Wisconsin but will come up with something else to work on the Locomobile.  I also have another of these Delco dual spark distributors that I will be using on the Wisconsin to allow firing two sets of spark plugs.  The pictures above will give you an idea of what they are and how they fit.  Have you heard anything from your Foundry?  I thought he would have some intake manifold castings for me by now.  I will need to drop him a note.  What else have you completed on your  Wisconsin 6?

Alan

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Hello Alan,

 

I have to get on his case too! He owes me two more sets of valve shrouds (Wisconsin model "A")  and some water fittings as well! Typically he hibernates during the winter

but I don't want him to forget! On the other hand his price is beyond fair so I don't like to push too hard!

 

T.

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I will drop him a note but certainly not in a pushing fashion, just to get a status report.  Your mounting brackets are ideal for the Wisconsin, I would need four of them as I will be running two sets of plugs on the engine.  If you hear anything from the foundry, please drop a note.

Al

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Hello Terry,

Have you been in touch with Don J. lately?  I wonder if the snow is on the way out yet at his place?  I need to get in touch with him and see if he would work with me to get a set of valve stem covers cast for my Wisconsin.

Al

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