Dave Phillips

29 Chrysler 65 oil filter

Recommended Posts

Hi, 

I've been working on my car and need to ask some questions on the Oil Filter.

1, does it come apart ( how) or is it a service item (where can I get one)

2, when I took the pipes off the engine someone has soldered over the end of the pipe that feeds the filter, I take it it's a bodge to remove the filter from the oil system.

3, What is the best grade of Oil to use in the engine.

 

hope someone can help, many thanks Dave from Sunny England

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can't help with the filter, although I expect it is like the Dodge 8 and a replaceable element, assuming you have an original fitting. A photo would help in this regard. There are filters on eBay but I don't know if they will fit. The oil should be a 5W or 10W-30. Any synthetic oils reduce wear more than ALL mineral oils.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It should be a one piece non-serviceable  filter. These filters systems are not 100% flow through. If your line is blocked you should still have oil pressure  but your oil gauge may not work (unless the blockage is on the return side).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here a picture of the filter that is mounted on the firewall, the pipe to the filter is separate to the oil gauge so gauge works fine, but somebody has soldered over the end of the filter inlet pipe at the end nearest the engine, thanks for the replies. 

Cheers Dave 

 

DaveIMG_0952.thumb.JPG.0bcee498d18872096aa95f0e55a24a0b.JPG 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bob's Automobilia sells a filter housing that looks a bit like that for a replaceable cartridge that fits inside.

 

I suppose it looks a bit like this:

image.png.1e7909b5171ce39f25ae70b6d4f3df7f.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How about that!  :lol:       Nice looking engine bay. What is that just below the high-level brake fluid reservoir?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

How about that!  :lol:       Nice looking engine bay. What is that just below the high-level brake fluid reservoir?

That is kind of shock / snubber for the engine torque,  A metal rod goes from this to the left rear head nut and stud.

009.JPG

010.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for that. Interesting idea. My Dodge 8 doesn't have anything fancy like that and I can stand a $2 coin on edge on top of the engine while it is idling.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As per your questions as I know notice that you posted them twice with only myself responding to your other posting:

 

1A. No. They were "lifetime sealed" as far as I know.

1B. An elderly US gentleman was making some very realistic reproductions containing a modern filter inside, which again could be replaced. I hope someone is continuing his business? As seen on my car which take an unmodified Neon filter inside. Originally there was one tube on top and one on bottom, which require a slight modification to the Neon filters.

2. Typical, the fitting are however standard and can be remade.

3. I have tried both monograde 40 and 20W-50 on my Series 65s. Both qualities seem to work

59de6dbda9275_CR-IImotorV1306(1).thumb.JPG.79c0151ff3504f44e7f2f915d1685b9c.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've noticed that both the engine bays in the posted pics above do not have a brake reservoir pump handle.

The '29 and above models do not need to be pressurised?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Excellent information thanks again, I think I'm going to try to use the original canister and plumb in a modern filter inside it, I'll keep the join under one of the clamps. I'll post a picture when complete.

 

Cheers Dave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/11/2017 at 10:55 PM, maok said:

I've noticed that both the engine bays in the posted pics above do not have a brake reservoir pump handle.

The '29 and above models do not need to be pressurised?

Correct, believe 1928 was the last year. As seen on this Ser 62 firewall

1706 17 Norgesløp Kongsberg (22).jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi there Narve,

 

Can you tell me what is it that you have attached to the tie rods for the radiator in the photo of your engine bay.

59de6dbda9275_CR-IImotorV1306(1).thumb.JPG.79c0151ff3504f44e7f2f915d1685b9c.JPG.80027f487a7c0f3a4ade62c70e4a1f61.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The '29 model is way too advanced for me. Fancy braking systems, engine torque rod, sophisticated pulley system for the generator and whatever that thing is that Sasha39 is asking about. I bet its even got Bluetooth.

 I'll stick with my simple  '28...:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The bracket on the radiator support is a typical hotrodding item to enable you to open both sides of the hood/bonnet simultaneously, and leave them standing side by side for you to go work from both sides and possibly to lessen scratches to the hood sides from folding on top. I have since removed it as it was not adding enough value and the hood fared well when folded on top.

CR 0908 1.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...