RichBad

1927/28 Dodge Brothers series 128/129 Tourer

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When I rebuilt my Olds 6 cylinder motor, the machine shop did all the work and reassembled the whole motor for a ridiculously low amount then delivered it to my garage. When I went to reassemble the bell housing and flywheel onto the rear of the motor I realized they forgot to put the flywheel bolts in the crank flange. Like your engine, the bolts do not clear the sump or block so they came and picked it up, installed the bolts, and brought the motor back to me, all for no charge. Needless to say, this shop does all my motor work. He stands behind all he does and does it affordable for the customer.

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The information contained here is wonderful.

I am forwarding to a friend with a 1927 model 50 who has not started on his car yet.

This will be good for him to see

Thank You

Hans

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16 hours ago, robert b said:

Richard the frame has come up very well and was what you heeded to get things in order , glad to see the car running , its a very good feeling at this stage to see all your work turn out so well ,it stands square on the springs , very good work Bob

Thanks Bob, I couldn’t have done it without your help!  I think the chassis would have kept me going for another year!  It looks great and more importantly starts and runs very smoothly and the quick drive I did was very smooth.  The clutch is super smooth and very easy- your instructions worked a treat!  It almost feels too easy!  Next step to get the body done although I think I’ll put it back on in its current state to do some driving over summer and start work on it in the winter as I think it needs a bit of work.

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More plating.  Made some exhaust brackets and clamps and had them plated so I can get the exhaust system back on properly.  Not sure if the brackets are correct but did my best from various pictures I could find.  Still need to make the exhaust tail piece.

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I attached the front and rear muffler mounts to the chassis with some rubber - not sure if it’s needed but may quieten and stop any cracking from flexing in the chassis.

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Rear mount just needs a pipe to go through it.

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Fitted chassis welt ready to fit the body - pre cut holes for the body bolts and glued to the chassis so it doesn’t move when fitting the body.

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Rebuilding the brake light switch, thanks to Bob for the parts which I was able to remake a good working switch.

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Disassembled switch - needs a good clean!

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after re-plating and making some new insulating gaskets and bushes.

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Refitted contacts - used some epoxy to pot the terminals in place so they don’t come loose in the future.  Re assembled the plunger with a new operating bush.

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Finished assembly

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Finished switch fitted to the car

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Lifting the body on.  Thought it would be quite hard and need a few people but I was able to do it on my one with an engine hoist - just had to remove the steering wheel/shaft and rear light and it was quite easy.

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Mounting holes in the body needed a bit of adjustment - nothing major but really to get the body lined up better than it was.

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Had to make up some new floor/toe boards as the existing ones were disintegrating.

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with the fittings attached

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fitted to the car

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Fixed up the speedo and gauges.  Just done a quick clean up as don’t have a speedo cable and need to get hold of the correct oil pressure gauge and ammeter.

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The main casting for the speedo is a bit knackered, I cleaned everything up and the speedo is working but I don’t think the odometer will be too reliable.

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back in the car

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Fitted the new cables to the starter motor and switch.

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With the body back on and bolted down it’s starting to look like a car at last.  Hung a few doors and they don’t fit great - I think they’d all been made to fit a bent chassis:(

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Such beautiful work! That speedometer looks a little iffy with all of those cracks in the pot metal. I hope it holds together.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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Yes, does it turn freely? That metal is expanding so it will clamp on the input shaft and brake the cable.

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7 hours ago, keiser31 said:

Such beautiful work! That speedometer looks a little iffy with all of those cracks in the pot metal. I hope it holds together.

Yes, the pot metal is on its way out, the speedo part is fine but the legs that hold the odometer and trip counter have distorted too far.  Will need replacement but I’ll worry about that when I can find a speedo cable.

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Will have a look this week , should be one or two here but dont know conduition , talk later, Bob

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Thanks Bob, took it for a drive on the weekend with the body on - it’s really smooth and quiet - with the exception of the body (the doors squeak nonstop).

 

Did about 20 miles and didn’t miss a beat! And look at the bottom pic, not a drop of oil (not sure how long that wil last)!

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Started on the windscreen and a few other jobs.  My windscreen frame was well and truely rotten - had been filled with all sorts (paper, cloth, bog etc).  Got hold of another one which was better (still quite rusty but much more solid) but unfortunately was a slightly different shape and needed some adjustments and swapping a few sections.

 

First made some pivot clamps so I could hang the frame in the mounts on the car to check it as I go.  Didn’t have any to copy so think this is what they should look like.

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New top screen frame had some damage around the wiper mount (squashed) and was also ~1” too short so inserted a section from my old frame.

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Bottom rail was different shape (flatter) so needed a little more curve added - thanks to Matt for helping adjust.  The bottom one is the new one - looks worse (rust holes) but is actually much more solid.

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Old and new frame sides - cut my original ones out (bottom) to weld into rest of frame.

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This shows how bad my old one was on the inside.

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Frame welded together using wooden pattern (made from old glass).  Next step clean up and get glass cut.

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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Finished the screen - lots of filling and sanding but came up pretty well.

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Finished screen with the glass fitted

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New bottom radiator hose thanks to Matt.  Put a bead on the ends with a little trick I learnt by modifying a pair of mole grips. Weld part of an exhaust clamp to one half and half a washer to the other then just work around the tube.

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Posted (edited)

Time for an update.  Got the car up and running just in time to get a little driving over summer.  Now the rain and cold of winter is back I thought I’d make a start on the body.  The metal work is in pretty good shape but the wood frame underneath isn’t so nice!

One last pic before she comes apart...

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Started stripping the trim and panels - someone liked using their staple gun!  Wood work is complete but I think most has been replaced at some stage and not done very well.  Uprights were not even jointed to the main rails!

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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I was wondering what happened to this thread. Glad you’re back.

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Got the trim out and door panels off -never seen so many staples! Next step to pull the rear tub and scuttle off.

 

Thanks to Jesse J I’ve got some old sketches showing the important dimensions from an original one which will really help trying to sort it out.

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Posted (edited)

Got all of the wood out now.  I think the scuttle wood was original but everything else had been replaced at some stage and the main plinths more recently.  Got some correct measurements and my lower plinths are both 1/4 thinner than they should be.  Also, the scuttle uprights weren’t even attached to the main plinths!

 

next step to strip/clean up the metal work and buy some wood.

 

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Edited by RichBad (see edit history)
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