NZ Buick

1919 Buick Roadster

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5 minutes ago, Larry Schramm said:

Normally about .008 - .010 inches.

 

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The original owners manual manual for my '16 E-45 says:

 

".005" clearance between the valve stem and rocker arm, this is approximately the thickness of a heavy sheet of paper or light card.and is sufficient to allow for expansion of the valve stem when warm".

 

It does not specify whether warm or cold

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Another milestone reached, valve gear is all installed and have set the clearances to .005” I will check it again after some running and adjust it where needed. I had a great deal of trouble trying to free up the solid rollers on the lifters so they would spin smooth and freely and was worried about damaging cam lobes so have managed to find a ball bearing of very similar dimensions that I have managed to graft into place. Will be interesting to see if this is a success or not! Starter generator is dummied up so I can drill my water pump shaft for the coupling with the required clearance. Manifolds are ready to install I just have to make two exhaust port rings as they were missing. Marvel carb is cleaned up ready for reassembly and I have just got a vacuum tank off my father to rebuild or sneak an electric pump inside of.

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Well with the engine to a stage that I’m happy with it I have moved onto stripping, cleaning and painting the chassis so I can soon have something to bolt it into! I have removed the first cross member ready to use as a pattern to make a new one and while I source some suitable steel to do so I have started dismantling the gearbox so I can give it a thorough clean out. Does anybody have suggestions as to how the rear universal yoke is removed from the square output shaft of one of these gearboxes? I have removed its retaining nut and washer but can’t seem to be able to remove the yoke!

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On 9/12/2018 at 3:25 PM, NZ Buick said:

Marvel carb is cleaned up ready for reassembly and I have just got a vacuum tank off my father to rebuild or sneak an electric pump inside of.

 

 

I sent a Marvel carb to new zealand last year, was that you? How did it work out with that?

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I ran into this same issue when going thru my transmission on the 1925 Standard.  I was not able to get the yoke off.   I tried using some small U bolt clamps and a steering wheel puller.  It was not going to budge, and I did not want to risk breaking anything.  I cleaned it all the best I could.  I did rotate it, and I did not feel any bumps.  Since the bearing seemed smooth,  I figured that it would be OK and the least of my worries right now, so I opted just to leave it alone and go with it.  My suggestion is give it a cleaning and don't try to disassemble it.   

This does mean that the output shaft will stay with the rear bearing and rear housing.  Notice that on the very front end of the output shaft is a brass disc.  This is a thrust washer between the input shaft and the output shaft.  It may also be laying inside the input shaft when you pull the back off the transmission case.  

Hugh

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

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NZ Buick.

I have been thinking of this way to fix the lifters too,but I don’t think it will work.I think roller bearings could work but not ball bearings just becuse of the small area on a ball when press on it.

I think you shoud ask anyone to count on it!

Leif in Sweden

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I am also in the court with Leif.  I hope it does not set you back too far to make a change, but it seems solid as original or roller is a better way to go.  The roller in the original solid lifters had a hardened outer wear surface from what I understand also.  The racing engines if there are ones with roller lifters, seem to be using roller bearings on rare occasion, but also mainly using solid steel.  So you have to deal with both the hardness of the outside of the roller, and the ability of the bearing itself to hold up.  I wonder if the surface of the roller is also completely flat across the surface or any convex shape to the surface?   One thing that I did notice on the cam and rollers on used engines was that the cam lobes were grooved down the center of the lobes.  On my very worn parts that I received, the cam was worn down much farther, and the rollers had the metal chipped off the very edges of the rollers where they were running into the cam journal that now had "sides".  A motor that was not given frequent oil changes, but it shows the stresses that are put on these parts after many years.   If all the springs and valves are in good shape, and the oil is changed frequently, it could be OK, but not as robust and forgiving if a valve were to stick.   

 

Hugh

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On 10/25/2018 at 3:07 AM, Morgan Wright said:

 

I sent a Marvel carb to new zealand last year, was that you? How did it work out with that?

Yes that was me you sent the carb to. It took plenty of soaking and a bit of heat to get apart but after a thorough clean out I’m hoping it will be good to go now! I just have to get an O ring for the adjustment needle in the bottom as I hear this is the way to remedy leaks.

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I agree that the longevity of a ball bearing in that application may not be any good but I’m of the opinion that with the tension of the valve springs in an old engine like this being relatively low (compared to modern engines) I have decided to give it a go anyway. My hope is that the shim washers I have used either side of the bearing are of a size that shouldn’t allow any balls to fall out into the sump and if I keep a close eye on valve clearances I will hopefully be able to catch one if it fails before it is too late!

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My 1908 Model F, 1915 Buick truck & 1918 Buick truck, all have roller lifters.  Same basic design as modern engines.

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I have roller lifters on my spare 1918 model E-49 I can sell you. They are a different style but will work. The roller is around 15/16 inch, tell me what your bore is.

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On ‎6‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 6:11 PM, NZ Buick said:

Hi Rod, That sounds about right. It appears I have acquired various Buick parts from various years which I am figuring out as I go. My intention is to try to piece together a 1918/19 roadster as best as I can with the parts I have available. Although this will result in a car that will never win prizes I hope to get a great deal of fun out of motoring it around. My biggest concern at this stage is the body woodwork side of things as I have next to no patterns and haven’t yet been able to find a same year Buick roadster I can look over and under to get a starting point. If this all proves too hard when I get to that stage my plan b is to make some sort of a speedster/special out of it all.

have just brought a 1918 e44 colonial bodied roadster from timaru from a deceased esate can help with wood work need to get in touch

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Posted (edited)

donald w,     We love seeing pictures of peoples cars.  Can you post some pics of your car and what your plans are.

Edited by ROD W (see edit history)

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