1925 Speedo setup help

[Guest Leeroy]

Hi Guys,

Finally working on getting my speedo working, when I purchased it, it was missing the Drive cable and end.

I've been trying to work out what I need to purchase from https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=181

 

I was hoping someone with better knowledge than me could help me out :-)

 

First pics are from under the dash and the transmission.

 

Next are the dimensions, they are approx. and all in millimetres.

 

 

These are the options from the site - https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=181

 

 

 

So far I think I need the FLX062 Drive end, as it has the closest Shank Diameter of 3.81mm, then having a 4.75mm ID, i'd be using the FLX054 Drive Cable, but then what do I do at the speedo end, where it has a 6mm OD, but the FLX054 has an OD of 4.75mm?

Do I need another end?

 

Any help pointing me in the right direction would be grateful :-

 

 

 

 

 

[Vintageben]

Hey there I will try and get you some photos of the arrangement on my Chev tomorrow. I think you may have mistaken the odometer reset screw for the drive also is that the outer cable in the background of photo looks like it to me

[Vintageben]

Actually here's a couple of pictures of the underside of a speedo and the broken cable the brass end fits into the speedo to drive it

[Vintageben]

Sorry helps if I ad the photos 

[PFitz]

Try Bob's Speedometer for new speedo cables.

 

http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/cables_and_casings.asp

 

Paul

[Vintageben]

So here is couple more photos of the style on the chev both at the speedo and on the gear box. I have bought new inner cables for these from Chev parts in Sydney Australia they are easy to install and you cut to required length. Another is it may have been disconnected due to a faulty speedo the muck metal in speedos of the era are notorious for either crumbling or swelling and jamming everything. Any hope this helps some and good luck 

[Guest Leeroy]

51 minutes ago, Vintageben said:

So here is couple more photos of the style on the chev both at the speedo and on the gear box. I have bought new inner cables for these from Chev parts in Sydney Australia they are easy to install and you cut to required length. Another is it may have been disconnected due to a faulty speedo the muck metal in speedos of the era are notorious for either crumbling or swelling and jamming everything. Any hope this helps some and good luck 

 

 

Thanks Vintageben!  It does look like I am mistaking the reset screw lol, first time doing this for me :-)

I think I should pull it out from the Dash and take a better look, and yes the speedo housing is in the background of one of the pics, it was connected to the trans, but just tied up with wire behind the dash.

Thanks for the pics, it has really helped me understand it better.

 

[Vintageben]

No problems. Yeah if you remove the speedo you will soon work it out, there is a small nurled nut that holds a plate that holds the cable in place on the Chev anyway. If I get a chance in the next day or two I will check the measurements on Chev stuff to see it may work . cheers Ben

[Guest Leeroy]

Ok, so finally pulled the speedo out. Is an "AC" by Spark Plug Co. The back is similar to yours Ben. It's obvious where the speedo cable goes :-)

 

I've ordered the drive cable and gearbox end, not sure about the speedo end, it's unclear if the drive cable comes with any ends from the description/pics - https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=181

 

I'll have to wait and see.

 

 

[Vintageben]

Yeah see how you go with the kit you ordered here's a Chev one I have had sitting on the shed wall for some time they are real easy to install just cut cable to length and put the ends on 

[cahartley]

On 10/5/2017 at 4:58 PM, Leeroy said:

Ok, so finally pulled the speedo out. Is an "AC" by Spark Plug Co. The back is similar to yours Ben. It's obvious where the speedo cable goes :-)

 

I've ordered the drive cable and gearbox end, not sure about the speedo end, it's unclear if the drive cable comes with any ends from the description/pics - https://www.restorationstuff.com/ecommerce/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=181

 

I'll have to wait and see.

 

 

Be VERY careful handing that thing.

It looks like a 20's AC unit which has internals made of REALLY lousy pot metal which gets extremely brittle and self destructs....... 

The "arch" which supports the speed indicator was flimsy enough when it was new much less now.

 

[Hubert_25-25]

Work on the getting the cable installed as you have been doing.  If you are going to use the outer cable and a new inner cable, that is a good way to go.  Try to remove as much of the old oil and grease that you can.  The old grease acts like tar.  Then use plenty of new good grease on the inner cable before installing it.  Consider a good silicone or wheel bearing grease that will last a long time. 

 

If you are not worried that your cable is 67” instead of 48” long.  Ebay has complete NOS cables show up frequently.  Examples to search for are OEM AC labeled as “CC-2” and Universal cables “U30”

 

There are also replacement inner NOS cables that show up

 

Install the cable on the transmission end - BUT NOT on the speedometer.  Jack up a rear wheel and spin it, and ensure that the end of the drive cable is spinning.  Do not connect the cable to the speedometer until you have gone thru the speedometer with new grease.      

Speedometer

Problem areas

Pot metal – Several internal parts that fall apart with age.

Old grease- Turns to tar and the cable no longer turns, or internal gears break or the drive cable breaks

DO NOT connect a drill or screwdriver or cable to an out of service speedometer head until it has been opened and inspected to ensure the mechanism is OK, or things will break. 

OPENING

Use a screwdriver, or paint lid opener, or tack puller to pry off the nickel plated glass ring from the back side.  Try not to over bend parts.  Loosen it all the way around.

 

This will allow you to remove the glass and the face of the speedometer. 

Remove the 2 back nuts, and this will allow you to pull the speedometer assembly out.

Inspect the parts.  Remove all old grease and relubricate with grease.     

 

A few photos of problem areas.  A broken inner drive cable, and the typical dreaded pot metal failure in the arch.   I thought about having new arches 3D printed, but I am not there yet on my restoration.

If you buy a used speedometer from Ebay, ask them to lightly shake it from side to side.  If it rattles, you may want to pass on it.

Hugh

   

Edited December 8, 2017 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

Make sure the speedo actually turns freely before putting it all together. If it is anything like mine (1930 Dodge 8) the die-cast expands over time (the zinc in it corrodes) and grips the shaft, stopping it turning. The first thing you know about it is either a jerky speedo or a broken cable. Maybe that is why there was no cable in it?

[Guest]

Make sure you only lube the bottom third of the cable.  Lube on the top part works it's way into the speedo head.