Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

hi all,

I am looking for some odds and ends for the '39 commander. 

1.    the late '39 T88 transmisison drips oil around the shifter arms...it seems seals are not available...anyone have a known solution for this? 

2.    looking for a head light switch knob, see pic

20170904_193342.thumb.jpg.0a06c2c610a469204514e4694c13ff1a.jpg

 

3.    I need a right rear door glass mounting channel #267235, this is the steel channel the glass sits in at the bottom of the glass.  I could take a channel from another door if I have to...and attach the slotted part to it. 

4.   regarding the fuse for the overdrive relay...see pics...I assume the part I am holding is the fuse shell and it fits into the holder much like a light bulb, maybe someone is familiar with this.  At any rate, I hope someone can explain this fuse and tell me what I need to make this a working fuse again.  Is the part I am holding the fuse or does a fuse fit down inside of it?    

20170912_192710.thumb.jpg.52f4bb47e896a7f108de715e983e6a1f.jpg

 

5.  does anyone have a decent steering wheel?   I might be re-casting mine but I want to check to see if any others are out there before I do.   

 

thanks everyone. 

Posted

it will be awhile before I can check as we are out of town, but I did remove the rear windows from my 38 parts car as I wanted the window gear assembly but I don't know if I saved the glass mounting channel as it would be of no use to me.  I don't have a parts book but I'm guessing that 1938 & 1939 use the same channel.  If 1938 & 1939 are the same I know of 3 1938 four door parts cars that we can probably get it from.  I'll check when we get home mid week.

Posted

The headlight knob is the same as on my early 1940 commander. I have a core that has white plastic instead of brown but needs to be recast if you just need the core.

Posted

Cowtown commander...that will be fine.....my channel is rotted down one side and I doubt it will ever grip the glass...the other three channels were in great shape.    

studeboy....the knob pictured has disintegrated on the shaft side, but other wise in great shape on the front.   I can try to repair it or recast it from mine if I have to (or just get round knobs).   Just checking to see if there could be an usable knob out there before I spend $$ on casting materials.  Not real sure how to put the metal blade in the hole while casting but I can probably figure it out.  Thanks for your offer.   I finally located the knob in the parts catalog and it is for a '40....mine is a late '39 and I have noticed several items on my car listed as the '40 in the parts book.  They must have started using the '40 parts in late '39. 

On the overdrive relay fuse....does a glass fuse go inside the metal sleeve?  I noticed the indented ring around the metal sleeve and a glass fuse could possible fit against this.  Is this how it works?  

Posted (edited)

yes the fuse fits in that sleeve and the two lock into the relay with a twist.

Are you sure that it is a 1939?

Do you have a serial number to check the year.

Do you have a part number for the transmission seal you are looking for?

Picture of the window channel?

 

 

Edited by rbk (see edit history)
Posted

hi rbk.....thanks for confirming how the fuse goes together...

the serial number is 4128184, been told it is a late '39 since it has the T88-1F tranny.   The part number for the 2 shifter arm seals are 

196152 and 196151 (ref plate 07-7 on page 247).  I should do the OD shift arm seal while at it, but I dont see a seal listed (looking at page 286)   would it be listed somewhere else?   

steel glass mounting channel...its 22" long,  it will no problem if I have to cut off the slotted part and reweld it to another channel, so I think a different door can work for me too.  

20170917_123649.thumb.jpg.b8ba521ad785d25a4fa00cd64015e86f.jpg

thanks all for your replies!

 

 

Posted

Interesting about the mix of parts. My 1940 Commander came off the assembly line in October 1939. It had a 1939 generator on it which was smaller output than the 1940 one. No mention of this in the parts book either.

Posted
15 hours ago, fh4ever said:

hi rbk.....thanks for confirming how the fuse goes together...

the serial number is 4128184, been told it is a late '39 since it has the T88-1F tranny.   The part number for the 2 shifter arm seals are 

196152 and 196151 (ref plate 07-7 on page 247).  I should do the OD shift arm seal while at it, but I dont see a seal listed (looking at page 286)   would it be listed somewhere else?   

steel glass mounting channel...its 22" long,  it will no problem if I have to cut off the slotted part and reweld it to another channel, so I think a different door can work for me too.  

20170917_123649.thumb.jpg.b8ba521ad785d25a4fa00cd64015e86f.jpg

thanks all for your replies!

As I remember , the T88 was  used in 1938 cars and early 1939 Comm/Pres.

The shaft seals are not in stock.

The T88 suffered from lubrication problems when the fluid level went low.

It was a new design transmission used by Studebaker and Graham in where the transmission was laying on it's side to reduce the height so the transmission hump would be lower.

Make sure you keep the transmission fluid level up.

You may have to improvise seals for the shifter or find a substitute by requesting

prints from the archives to see the manufacturer and dimensions.

I will look for a channel when I go back to the warehouse in the morning.

It looks like someone replaced your 1939 knobs with 1940 versions.

Robert Kapteyn

 

 

 

Posted

The part number for the channel you need is # 267235 for the four door sedan and is the same for 1937 thru 1940.  I looked in three boxes and found a front channel but it is only 17" long.  I think I have some more channels and will go look for them later this afternoon or tomorrow --- should have read your post before I started looking.

Posted

Do you have a drive shaftand universals?  If not be prepared to do a lot of filing on the universals to get them to fit the splines on the rear end and trans. If you do have them check the rubber as it is probably brittle. I used white out on the universals when trying them and the marks showed how much I still had to file. Each groove and ridge was different. It is due to 80 years ago the tolerance was not as accurate as today's tooling on making the universals. 

 

IMG_0038.JPG

Posted

It took a while but I found the channel you need!!!!! I actually have both sides.  It's  IMG_8480.thumb.JPG.acbc131e1311cd895adf76d5b1dd39ad.JPG

 

the channel next to the measuring tape as I see it.  I will send you an e- mail with some pictures of the rear vent windows I have.  There is quite a bit of rubber left on a couple of them and I think you might be able to adapt the rear window rubber rubbers to serve as vent window rubbers by cutting off part of the rubber "lip".  Confirm the side you need and email your shipping address.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...