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65 Wiper motor issue


Jimbeau23
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Hello, I just finished up the 2 year restoration on the car all was going great. Before we started the wipers were working fine but just after I got it back the wiper fuse would blow every now and again. Now it blows immediately even with the wiper switch turned off. If I replace the fuse and turn the key on fuse blows.  If it temporarily by pass the fuse the wipers work, but the by pass wire get hot.  So there is a huge load being drawn. I would think that with the switch off there would be no load, but guessing that the wipers are not "parked" and keeping the load on the motor?  Any suggestions? or do I just pull the motor and send it out to be rebuilt? any idea of a source for motors or rebuilds?

 

Thank you

Jim

 

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The feed wire from the fuse box is yellow.  At least according to the big wiring diagram I got from Classic Car Wiring.  Most helpful.  SO much better that what's in the shop manual.

 

Probably the best Jackson I've spent on the car.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-65-Buick-Riviera-Full-Color-Laminated-Wiring-Diagram-11-X-17-/362101564685?hash=item544eef650d:g:HGMAAOSwNphWXarb&vxp=mtr

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          Kemosabe........Tonto went to town and has come back with information for you.....you can thank me later! You are barking

up the wrong tree. The same wiper fuse also powers up the kickdown switch on the side of the carburetor. The wire in question will be yellow or orange

depending on the production date of the car. The auxiliary  orange/black stripe wire powering up the auxiliary relay on the hideaway headlights tees into this wire right above the distributor, so the short is most likely in the kickdown switch or even more likely the auxiliary headlamp relay or wire feeding it. Unplug the auxiliary relay wire from the kickdown wire and see if the short is gone. If not, unplug the kickdown switch and see if the short is gone. If it is, the short could be in the transmission or in the wires going to the trans from the kickdown switch or in the switch itself. One

more tip  oh masked one..........You can view the wiring diagram free online.......no need to pay for it. Just google search 1965 Buick Riviera wiring harness and it comes right up. The wire leaving the wiper fuse is one wire till it gets to the bulkhead connector where the engine side of the connector becomes two wires.......one to the wiper motor that is yellow, and one to the kickdown that is either yellow on the early cars or orange on the later cars.

Edited by Seafoam65 (see edit history)
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Thank you all! It looks like it is indeed the headlight relay causing the issue, as that was the last thing I needed to repair as I had the headlight motor rebuilt. The original wiring to the relays was partly melted and causing the short!  What a great group here! car is headed to the Bahamas in a couple weeks from the UK, looking forward to her being my retirement car...Thank you! J

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            Tonto heap glad you got it fixed with very little wampum! Be sure you study my posts on troubleshooting hideaway headlight

power circuits........it is all the info you need to get the mess straightened out. One thing that may have happened that caused the short is that

the auxiliary relay goes bad and people go to an Auto Supply and try to match one up by finding one with the same external three prongs on it. The problem

is that these relays at the parts store are wired wrong internally , creating a short circuit. If your hideaway relay wiring is melted, I would source some good used wiring  from a parts car, then do the conversion I outlined on converting the auxiliary relay wiring connectors to be able to plug into a main relay, which is readily available.

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  • 4 years later...

I have read all the threads I can find on the forum regarding the access to the wiper motor . Had mine rebuilt and it worked fine when I put in a few months ago as I was doing a frame off on my 65 GS . Naturally that was easy to do with the fenders and hood and cowl in full view . Just got everything put back together in my dash and wiring and stated the wiper and it was making a loud clanking noise in the assembly for some reason which I have  yet to figure out. As I was trying to figure it out, the motor stopped suddenly and cannot be restarted -  fuse is OK . Took the cowl plate off , assembly looks OK and moves like it should but obviously I can’t see the motor . How accessible is it if I take the hood and bracket to fender back off  ( having spent hours getting it aligned ! ) . PLEASE tell me  I don’t have to take the fender back off as my grill , bumper and headlights are exactly where I want them after literally spending days lining them up !  I am about ready to leave them non- functional if that is the case  as I’m  sure everyone who has done this knows . So very frustrating ! Whoever designed this wiper motor placement should be beat with a large stick and hung out to dry ! I have learned many valuable lessons over the last 20 months doing this restoration - main one being NEVER AGAIN ! 
Seriously would appreciate any thoughts knowing there is no easy  answer . 
KReed

ROA 14549

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KReed,

 

You already have the cowl off, one step covered. Inside the left fenderwell is a plate. Remove that & you can remove the bolts that hold the wiper motor on. Next, take a block of wood, wrapped with towels to protect the paint & support the hood, & remove the hood hinge. Now you have somewhat access to the motor.

 

Tom T.

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7 hours ago, kreed said:

I have read all the threads I can find on the forum regarding the access to the wiper motor . Had mine rebuilt and it worked fine when I put in a few months ago as I was doing a frame off on my 65 GS . Naturally that was easy to do with the fenders and hood and cowl in full view . Just got everything put back together in my dash and wiring and stated the wiper and it was making a loud clanking noise in the assembly for some reason which I have  yet to figure out. As I was trying to figure it out, the motor stopped suddenly and cannot be restarted -  fuse is OK . Took the cowl plate off , assembly looks OK and moves like it should but obviously I can’t see the motor . How accessible is it if I take the hood and bracket to fender back off  ( having spent hours getting it aligned ! ) . PLEASE tell me  I don’t have to take the fender back off as my grill , bumper and headlights are exactly where I want them after literally spending days lining them up !  I am about ready to leave them non- functional if that is the case  as I’m  sure everyone who has done this knows . So very frustrating ! Whoever designed this wiper motor placement should be beat with a large stick and hung out to dry ! I have learned many valuable lessons over the last 20 months doing this restoration - main one being NEVER AGAIN ! 
Seriously would appreciate any thoughts knowing there is no easy  answer . 
KReed

ROA 14549

Hi Ken,

 

Here is what Buick says to do. I hope this helps. I am going on 3 years with no wipers. I have a rebuilt motor in my shop. A project I have been putting off. I clay bar my window glass at least once a year and if I wipe the glass down with Wizard's Mist N' Shine while I detail the rest of the car you don't need wipers, the rain just rolls right off.

 

Bill

 

 

IMG_8640.JPG

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On 7/30/2022 at 5:36 AM, telriv said:

KReed,

 

You already have the cowl off, one step covered. Inside the left fenderwell is a plate. Remove that & you can remove the bolts that hold the wiper motor on. Next, take a block of wood, wrapped with towels to protect the paint & support the hood, & remove the hood hinge. Now you have somewhat access to the motor.

 

Tom T.

Hi Tom  - sorry to say there is no plate on the inner fender well on either of my 65 Riv’s . One has a two inch hole which is rubber grommet plugged that barely  allows me to see the motor but certainly no one to approach the screws on the motor . The other has nothing but solid sheet metal . Think I will go the hood route and see if I can get it resolved . As always thanks for your input .  Ken 

KReec 

ROA 14549 
 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the windshield motor out finally on my 65  and am here  to tell you that it can be done without removing the fender thankfully. Getting in back in may be another story though. Here’s what I did to remove it ( curse words omitted)

1. Remove the hood ( 2 bolts on each side) 

2. Remove the driver side hood bracket ( 3 bolts ) 

3. Remove the DS fender to wheel well bracket ( 5 bolts )

4. 3 - 5/16 screws hold the motor to the cowl - top two can be reached through the opening made by removing hood brackets ( lateral one is somewhat of a challenge 

5. Remove front DS wheel - Bottom motor screw accessed by removing the rubber grommet from  a factory made  3 inch hole  in the upper DS wheel well using an 12 inch extension on the 5/16 socket ( pretty straight shot ) 

6 .Remove all screws holding the wiper assembly (9 total)

7.  After the screws holding the motor are removed , pull the motor forward off the cowl and remove nut holding assembly to motor 

8. Assembly can then be removed with gentle persuasion ( I came  out of the passenger side hole but suspect it might come out on DS as well

 

Took me about an hour . My motor needs to be rebuilt and then the big challenge comes getting it back in ! Will let you know how it goes . If I had not got it out this way, I had already planned to be wiperless! I would not take my fender off again as it was a royal PITA to get on and gapped right ( grill, bumper , headlights , etc ) . Miller time ! 
KReed

ROA 14549

Edited by kreed (see edit history)
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