Jimbeau23 Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Hello, I just finished up the 2 year restoration on the car all was going great. Before we started the wipers were working fine but just after I got it back the wiper fuse would blow every now and again. Now it blows immediately even with the wiper switch turned off. If I replace the fuse and turn the key on fuse blows. If it temporarily by pass the fuse the wipers work, but the by pass wire get hot. So there is a huge load being drawn. I would think that with the switch off there would be no load, but guessing that the wipers are not "parked" and keeping the load on the motor? Any suggestions? or do I just pull the motor and send it out to be rebuilt? any idea of a source for motors or rebuilds? Thank you Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Unplug the wiper motor and see if the short goes away. If it does, it is the motor. If it doesn't you have a pinched power wire from the fuse box to the wiper motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbeau23 Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Thank you! Ill give that a go J Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbeau23 Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Just unplugged the connector on the motor, short is still there.. any idea what color wire is the power feed to the motor? I assume it goes through one of the connector blocks in the firewall from what I can see. I dont see an obvious short.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 The feed wire from the fuse box is yellow. At least according to the big wiring diagram I got from Classic Car Wiring. Most helpful. SO much better that what's in the shop manual. Probably the best Jackson I've spent on the car. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-65-Buick-Riviera-Full-Color-Laminated-Wiring-Diagram-11-X-17-/362101564685?hash=item544eef650d:g:HGMAAOSwNphWXarb&vxp=mtr 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbeau23 Posted September 14, 2017 Author Share Posted September 14, 2017 Thanks for that and the link, just ordered one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Jim, Looking at a different thread, this thought occurred to me. The wiper motor AND the kickdown / variable pitch switch are tied into the same fuse in the fuse block. Might be worth checking out as well. Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 (edited) Kemosabe........Tonto went to town and has come back with information for you.....you can thank me later! You are barking up the wrong tree. The same wiper fuse also powers up the kickdown switch on the side of the carburetor. The wire in question will be yellow or orange depending on the production date of the car. The auxiliary orange/black stripe wire powering up the auxiliary relay on the hideaway headlights tees into this wire right above the distributor, so the short is most likely in the kickdown switch or even more likely the auxiliary headlamp relay or wire feeding it. Unplug the auxiliary relay wire from the kickdown wire and see if the short is gone. If not, unplug the kickdown switch and see if the short is gone. If it is, the short could be in the transmission or in the wires going to the trans from the kickdown switch or in the switch itself. One more tip oh masked one..........You can view the wiring diagram free online.......no need to pay for it. Just google search 1965 Buick Riviera wiring harness and it comes right up. The wire leaving the wiper fuse is one wire till it gets to the bulkhead connector where the engine side of the connector becomes two wires.......one to the wiper motor that is yellow, and one to the kickdown that is either yellow on the early cars or orange on the later cars. Edited September 14, 2017 by Seafoam65 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted September 14, 2017 Share Posted September 14, 2017 Yeah, but the big laminated one is 12" by 18" and surprise, surprise, on the back are diagrams for power windows (including vents) and power seats. Not to be found in the shop manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimbeau23 Posted September 15, 2017 Author Share Posted September 15, 2017 Thank you all! It looks like it is indeed the headlight relay causing the issue, as that was the last thing I needed to repair as I had the headlight motor rebuilt. The original wiring to the relays was partly melted and causing the short! What a great group here! car is headed to the Bahamas in a couple weeks from the UK, looking forward to her being my retirement car...Thank you! J 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted September 15, 2017 Share Posted September 15, 2017 Tonto heap glad you got it fixed with very little wampum! Be sure you study my posts on troubleshooting hideaway headlight power circuits........it is all the info you need to get the mess straightened out. One thing that may have happened that caused the short is that the auxiliary relay goes bad and people go to an Auto Supply and try to match one up by finding one with the same external three prongs on it. The problem is that these relays at the parts store are wired wrong internally , creating a short circuit. If your hideaway relay wiring is melted, I would source some good used wiring from a parts car, then do the conversion I outlined on converting the auxiliary relay wiring connectors to be able to plug into a main relay, which is readily available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 I have read all the threads I can find on the forum regarding the access to the wiper motor . Had mine rebuilt and it worked fine when I put in a few months ago as I was doing a frame off on my 65 GS . Naturally that was easy to do with the fenders and hood and cowl in full view . Just got everything put back together in my dash and wiring and stated the wiper and it was making a loud clanking noise in the assembly for some reason which I have yet to figure out. As I was trying to figure it out, the motor stopped suddenly and cannot be restarted - fuse is OK . Took the cowl plate off , assembly looks OK and moves like it should but obviously I can’t see the motor . How accessible is it if I take the hood and bracket to fender back off ( having spent hours getting it aligned ! ) . PLEASE tell me I don’t have to take the fender back off as my grill , bumper and headlights are exactly where I want them after literally spending days lining them up ! I am about ready to leave them non- functional if that is the case as I’m sure everyone who has done this knows . So very frustrating ! Whoever designed this wiper motor placement should be beat with a large stick and hung out to dry ! I have learned many valuable lessons over the last 20 months doing this restoration - main one being NEVER AGAIN ! Seriously would appreciate any thoughts knowing there is no easy answer . KReed ROA 14549 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 KReed, You already have the cowl off, one step covered. Inside the left fenderwell is a plate. Remove that & you can remove the bolts that hold the wiper motor on. Next, take a block of wood, wrapped with towels to protect the paint & support the hood, & remove the hood hinge. Now you have somewhat access to the motor. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riviera63 Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 7 hours ago, kreed said: I have read all the threads I can find on the forum regarding the access to the wiper motor . Had mine rebuilt and it worked fine when I put in a few months ago as I was doing a frame off on my 65 GS . Naturally that was easy to do with the fenders and hood and cowl in full view . Just got everything put back together in my dash and wiring and stated the wiper and it was making a loud clanking noise in the assembly for some reason which I have yet to figure out. As I was trying to figure it out, the motor stopped suddenly and cannot be restarted - fuse is OK . Took the cowl plate off , assembly looks OK and moves like it should but obviously I can’t see the motor . How accessible is it if I take the hood and bracket to fender back off ( having spent hours getting it aligned ! ) . PLEASE tell me I don’t have to take the fender back off as my grill , bumper and headlights are exactly where I want them after literally spending days lining them up ! I am about ready to leave them non- functional if that is the case as I’m sure everyone who has done this knows . So very frustrating ! Whoever designed this wiper motor placement should be beat with a large stick and hung out to dry ! I have learned many valuable lessons over the last 20 months doing this restoration - main one being NEVER AGAIN ! Seriously would appreciate any thoughts knowing there is no easy answer . KReed ROA 14549 Hi Ken, Here is what Buick says to do. I hope this helps. I am going on 3 years with no wipers. I have a rebuilt motor in my shop. A project I have been putting off. I clay bar my window glass at least once a year and if I wipe the glass down with Wizard's Mist N' Shine while I detail the rest of the car you don't need wipers, the rain just rolls right off. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted July 30, 2022 Share Posted July 30, 2022 Thanks Tom and Bill - very frustrating to say the least . Appreciate your advice. Will keep you updated . KReed ROA 14549 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted July 31, 2022 Share Posted July 31, 2022 On 7/30/2022 at 5:36 AM, telriv said: KReed, You already have the cowl off, one step covered. Inside the left fenderwell is a plate. Remove that & you can remove the bolts that hold the wiper motor on. Next, take a block of wood, wrapped with towels to protect the paint & support the hood, & remove the hood hinge. Now you have somewhat access to the motor. Tom T. Hi Tom - sorry to say there is no plate on the inner fender well on either of my 65 Riv’s . One has a two inch hole which is rubber grommet plugged that barely allows me to see the motor but certainly no one to approach the screws on the motor . The other has nothing but solid sheet metal . Think I will go the hood route and see if I can get it resolved . As always thanks for your input . Ken KReec ROA 14549 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted August 1, 2022 Share Posted August 1, 2022 Kreed, I know on '63's & 64's there's a plate there with three screws. Didn't know they changed that for '65. Maybe Tom Moony will see this & reply. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted August 14, 2022 Share Posted August 14, 2022 (edited) Got the windshield motor out finally on my 65 and am here to tell you that it can be done without removing the fender thankfully. Getting in back in may be another story though. Here’s what I did to remove it ( curse words omitted) 1. Remove the hood ( 2 bolts on each side) 2. Remove the driver side hood bracket ( 3 bolts ) 3. Remove the DS fender to wheel well bracket ( 5 bolts ) 4. 3 - 5/16 screws hold the motor to the cowl - top two can be reached through the opening made by removing hood brackets ( lateral one is somewhat of a challenge 5. Remove front DS wheel - Bottom motor screw accessed by removing the rubber grommet from a factory made 3 inch hole in the upper DS wheel well using an 12 inch extension on the 5/16 socket ( pretty straight shot ) 6 .Remove all screws holding the wiper assembly (9 total) 7. After the screws holding the motor are removed , pull the motor forward off the cowl and remove nut holding assembly to motor 8. Assembly can then be removed with gentle persuasion ( I came out of the passenger side hole but suspect it might come out on DS as well Took me about an hour . My motor needs to be rebuilt and then the big challenge comes getting it back in ! Will let you know how it goes . If I had not got it out this way, I had already planned to be wiperless! I would not take my fender off again as it was a royal PITA to get on and gapped right ( grill, bumper , headlights , etc ) . Miller time ! KReed ROA 14549 Edited August 14, 2022 by kreed (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dundee Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 So listening to all the difficulties surrounding the wiper gear I took this shot from the engine bay between the firewall and the wheel arch and wonder if it is normal to see the gear or has someone taken to it with a can opener? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted October 3, 2022 Share Posted October 3, 2022 i would be looking at a brake booster and master cylinder from that angle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Riviera63 Posted October 6, 2022 Share Posted October 6, 2022 Here is a picture of the access hole on the driver's side of the 65 inner fender that Ken was referring to in the post above. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kreed Posted October 6, 2022 Share Posted October 6, 2022 This hole allows access to the lower screw on the wiper motor only . The upper two require contortions to get to but they are doable assuming hood and bracket to the wheel well are removed . Good luck KReed ROA 14549 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now