Guest solidgold56 Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 We have no one for miles here. All shops here won't work on old cars. Besides, most mechanics here are so young that I have more experience than they do on these cars. Anyway, I re-sanded the shoes again this morning with adhesive backed paper. Drums a bit more relaxed. I will bleed the system one more time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank DuVal Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Got it, adjustment is at minimum and shoes are touching the drum. You are on right track sanding the linings. If there is no "play" between the pedal mechanism and the master cylinder piston, it may prevent the compensating port (one of the holes in the bottom of the master cylinder) from opening to the reservoir. this will cause the brakes to lock up in driving. Don't ask how I know this.... Play can be as little as thousandth's of an inch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 32 minutes ago, Frank DuVal said: Got it, adjustment is at minimum and shoes are touching the drum. You are on right track sanding the linings. If there is no "play" between the pedal mechanism and the master cylinder piston, it may prevent the compensating port (one of the holes in the bottom of the master cylinder) from opening to the reservoir. this will cause the brakes to lock up in driving. Don't ask how I know this.... Play can be as little as thousandth's of an inch. +10 for this You should only need to sand the shoes enough that they match the arc of the drum. I made X marks on the shoe facing and rubbed them in the drum lined with sticky backed sand paper until the X marks were uniformly gone. That should be all you need. If the first press of the brake pedal goes down further than the next, then it is very likely you still have air in the lines. You may have a pin hole opening somewhere that will make it impossible to get air out. One way is to apply pressure to the pedal for a long while and then examine all fittings, hoses, tubes, etc. for evidence of leaking. And per Frank (and my own experience) if you adjust the push rod to the master cylinder to attempt to remove free play you will likely restrict the master cylinder piston from returning past the compensating port and the result is the brakes will lock up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest solidgold56 Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 I seem to be getting closer now. Right front wheel seems to be the culprit by not releasing after a stop, making the car labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 19 hours ago, solidgold56 said: We have no one for miles here. All shops here won't work on old cars. Besides, most mechanics here are so young that I have more experience than they do on these cars. Anyway, I re-sanded the shoes again this morning with adhesive backed paper. Drums a bit more relaxed. I will bleed the system one more time. send the drums and shoes here : Brake & Equip Whse (Rob) 455 Harrison St NE, Mpls MN 55413-2408 (612) 378-3141 #2=shop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest solidgold56 Posted October 9, 2017 Share Posted October 9, 2017 I think I finally have everything working properly. I will do a full line check today and hopefully will be good to go. It took several attempts to adjust front brakes, but car performed good at the end of the day. I couldn't have gotten this far without the help of all on this forum. Each and everyone had useful information to get me through this. I learned a lot of new things with this car. Thanks again. I will update after a few days of road time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest solidgold56 Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 Brake job completed. Still a little more front left to fine adjust but will deal with that in the spring. Pedal is staying up but still have a tiny leak in two spots. Again with finish in spring. Car is in storage and after all this I am going in storage too! Again, thanks to a great bunch of people who took time to help me on this. I learned a lot (for my age). Update in the spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JACK M Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 I suggest you go to your storage on occasion and step on the brake pedal a few times. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 If you can't start it and take it for a drive every month then do what Jack M suggests and after stepping on the brakes then roll the car back and forth to make sure the shoes have released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 I am afraid that if there are seeps while sitting, the cylinder behind the seep will get air in it and you will have to do the whole performance again after the piston corrodes and sticks in the cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest solidgold56 Posted October 11, 2017 Share Posted October 11, 2017 I will check it often. Thanks for the advise! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now