Jump to content

Question on Thermal Paste on mounting plate for an ICM


bikemikey

Recommended Posts

89 Reatta. I think my Ignition Control Module failed me the other day when it reached about 101 degrees in Texas. After the ICM  cooled down, everything was fine again.  The Magnovox ICM is not that old, I don't use this car that much. I've read where you are suppose to use a thermal paste on the mounting plate when installing the ICM. I don't recall doing this when I install the ICM on this car, I might have caused it to have failed prematurely .  I've read where some people use dielectric grease, but it does not have the same properties of thermal paste.  Any opinions on this thermal paste?

Thanks,

Mike    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Thermal Paste" and/or dielectric grease isn't needed, and too much of either could actually hinder it. The large aluminum block bracket that it mounts to is a sufficient heat sink, and also acts as it's ground connection (the negative battery cable is bolted to the bracket)

 

When I first replaced my '89 Magnavox with a new unit- both the underside of the ICM and mounting surface of the bracket were badly corroded (non-conductive aluminum oxide) that I removed, using both PB Blaster and dielectric grease, with a putty knife. I then rubbed in some dielectric grease- to protect the raw aluminum, and used paper towels to wipe up any access. You jus want to "whet" the surface, you know what I mean? Like waxing a car. It's 3 mounting bolts act as decent electrical connection.

 

I later switched to an "AC Delco" type ignition, with great results.

 

OLD CORRODED OEM MAGNAVOX

 

DCP_4576.thumb.JPG.cc3bd12dad5deb5a7985f2304e2e69eb.JPG

 

NEW MAGNAVOX UNIT

 

DCP_4580.thumb.JPG.fbf800a6b56ab1b3bec95e20cc340be3.JPG

 

CLEANING MOUNTING SURFACE

 

DCP_4579.thumb.JPG.db90099cf58915f8bf0358af26a6104b.JPG

 

PROTECTING RAW ALUMINUM

 

DCP_4582.thumb.JPG.51d7b566b305047129e4b40de0c8825a.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 years later...

Is it the one that looks like this?

 

lrs-f504_6624.jpg

 

If so, the distributor is usually the heatsink. Some models just have it mounted to a heatsink. It must have a good thermal connection to it's heatsink or it will fail.

 

Sometimes dielectric silicone is provided, but that's mickey mouse. Use real heatsink grease. Either type used by electronic tech's will do, the old extremely messy white stuff, or the new runny silicone-based white stuff. Another thing that would work just fine is the type of "thermal paste" used on computer CPUs. Sometimes it is electrically conductive, but for this application it makes no difference, just keep it away from the pins.

 

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 9/9/2017 at 6:22 PM, 89RedDarkGrey said:

"Thermal Paste" and/or dielectric grease isn't needed, and too much of either could actually hinder it. The large aluminum block bracket that it mounts to is a sufficient heat sink, and also acts as it's ground connection (the negative battery cable is bolted to the bracket)

 

That's the quote that makes me think its not needed.  The ICM I had installed on my 93 ranger is like the one below, its a bottom view, showing the heat sink.  It does mount on the engine block.  Its already been installed by my mechanic and the "check engine" lite is now off, so the onboard computer picked the right part that was bad.  The mechanic said he applied a thin layer of dielectric grease before he installed it.  It didn't come with any grease or paste in the box from Ford, so maybe its not needed?dy959_1.jpg

Edited by Ranger93 (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
On 1/29/2021 at 8:18 PM, Ranger93 said:

 

That's the quote that makes me think its not needed.  The ICM I had installed on my 93 ranger is like the one below, its a bottom view, showing the heat sink.  It does mount on the engine block.  Its already been installed by my mechanic and the "check engine" lite is now off, so the onboard computer picked the right part that was bad.  The mechanic said he applied a thin layer of dielectric grease before he installed it.  It didn't come with any grease or paste in the box from Ford, so maybe its not needed?dy959_1.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Somewhat related to the heat problem.......... I run auxiliary transmission coolers on all my automatic transmission cars.     If you live in any "Southern" state where you can fry an egg on the road,  the extra cooler is cheap transmission insurance.     Example,  transmission fluid goes to the cooler in the radiator to cool. 

The radiator is at around 160-180...... so how hot is the transmission fluid if it is being cooled by the (160-180) radiator?

I bypass the cooler in the radiator..(1) that takes some stress off the radiator, now it only cools the engine.   (2) by adding an auxiliary transmission cooler,  it is setting in ambient air,  on a very hot day that is 100 or 60 degrees + cooler than the radiator.     

You can find lots of transmission coolers at the pick-n-pull.... look for trucks and SUV's that have a towing package,  find a big cooler and your engine and transmission will be happy.

 

One note.... you can add an auxiliary trans cooler to your vehicle regardless of where you live.... but on the recommendation of a Hydra-matic engineer,  don't bypass the radiator if you live where it get

below freezing on a daily basis.... the radiator warms the transmission fluid in those areas in cold weather. 


FluidChart.jpg

Edited by Barney Eaton (see edit history)
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...