1916/1917 LIGHT SIX VALVE CAGE SEALING RINGS

[Terry Wiegand]

I have made these before, but on an as needed basis.  I have the good brass material and I turned this over to my friend with a HAAS Machining Center.  We used the Buick Motor Company Engineering Drawing for part #33869 and produced enough of the

rings for 10 complete sets of 12.  I had originally thought that I could make these for $10.00 each.  With the programming and the hand work involved in deburring the finished parts the final cost will be $15.00 each or $180.00 for a set of 12.  Please keep

this thought in mind - these rings are a one time use only item.  This is what gives the cylinder a gas-tight seal.  If these ever have to come out of the cage pocket for any reason, you put a new one back in its place.  The material simply cannot be squeezed

into conformity more than once.  If anyone out there with a Light Six thinks that they might want a set, I would urge you to get them now.  I'm doing this now to help some guys I know that are needing some and what I need for myself.  When these are gone

that is going to be it.  I just don't think that I will have any more made up.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

terrywiegand@prodigy.net

[jbbuick22]

Terry did you make new cage nuts also?

 

 

 

John

 

22-6-55 Sport touring

[Terry Wiegand]

John, I did make new cage nuts for all three of my cars with a few extra for just in case.  I will be posting photos later in the coming week of the 1918 and later intake cage sealing rings.  I'm not going to make quite as many of those as I did the ones for the Light Six engine.  They are being machined to Buick Motor Company Engineering Specifications.  In regard to the cage nuts, I just don't think that I will make anymore.  I have told everyone in Dean's newsletter and got absolutely zero response.  So, I made what I needed for my cars and that is going to be it.  What I am making here will fit your engine.  If you think that you might be interested, then get with me.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

terrywiegand@prodigy.net 

[21raceabout]

Hello Terry - I picked up a 1915 C-25 in July that came out a of barn in New Hampshire.  My son and I in the process of tearing it down with the intent of rebuilding as a speedster.   I would be very interested in a set of cage nuts and sealing rings if they would fit the small 4 cyl engine.  Thanks!

Rick  

Quote

 

 

[Terry Wiegand]

Rick, if you have the engine down, measure the valve cage diameter.  The sealing rings that I am making are for the six cylinder engines.  The OD of the smaller sealing rings is 1.685"/1.686".  The larger rings are 2.060"/2.061   When you find out what your cage diameter is and if either of the sizes I'm making will work for you then I can help you out.  The four cylinder engines were somewhat all by themselves and I will be completely honest with you and say that my knowledge on the fours is very limited.  As for the cage nuts, it will depend on the size that your engine uses.  I am not planning on doing any more of them since I have all of my cars taken care of.  I am not for sure when the four cylinder engine went to the removable head.  I do know that the 1917 fours had the removable head.  Maybe some of the real Buick experts can chime in and set the record straight.  I simply do not know about 1916 fours. Sorry.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

terrywiegand@prodigy.net 

[21raceabout]

Hi Terry - Thanks for prompt reply.  This is our first antique Buick so is all new to us.  Ours is a 1915 with non-removable heads.  Engine is out of the car now and turns over easily but have not attempted to removed the valve cages yet.  Previous servicemen seem to have used crude instruments on installation/removal of the valve cage nuts.  Will try to get one of the valves out and apart this weekend.  Thanks again, Rick  

[21raceabout]

Hi Terry - A slightly better photo with the cobwebs and other items out of the way...

[Terry Wiegand]

Rick, check my other thread about the larger intake cage sealing rings.  The cage nuts in your last photo appear to be bigger than what was used on the Light Six engine.  The diameter of the cages will tell you what you need to know.  Looks like you're making some serious headway right quickly.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

[Larry Schramm]

Looks like the same engine in a C-37 roadster and my '15 truck.

[21raceabout]

Terry - We got the valve cage nuts out but need to make/modify a puller to get the cages themselves out.  Bit of a delay this weekend as priority was getting wheels cleaned up and prepped to drop off with Mr. Calimer at Hershey.

Rick

[Terry Wiegand]

Rick, be careful during the process of pulling the cages out of the block.  They are gray cast iron and can and have been known to break.  My advice to you during the puller procurement is to soak the cage pockets brim full with Marvel Mystery Oil.  I am a huge fan of this stuff because it works.  Let it set for a few days and it should make things easier to remove.  The engine doesn't look too terribly bad in the photos, so we can hope that things will come apart without too much trouble.  Take your time and take it slow and easy and you should be fine.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

[21raceabout]

Hi Terry -  Back to work on our Buick after a business trip.  We got the valve cage nuts and sealing rings out.  The sealing rings measured 1.692 - 1.700" OD, 1.481 - 1.500" ID and 0.123 - 0.127" thick.  Is this close to your light six?

Thanks

Rick

[Terry Wiegand]

Rick, yes, the rings you have started out as the dimensions for the Light Six sealing rings.  You have to keep in mind that yours have been squeezed, or compressed to fit the counterbore and top of the cage.  Can you measure the outside diameter of the cages?  This will tell the whole story for you.  Your old rings are deformed and won't tell you a whole lot, but the cages will.  Rick, could you post some photos of the removed cages?

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

Edited September 20, 2017 by Terry Wiegand
additional verbage (see edit history)

[21raceabout]

Hi Terry - I have not attempted to remove any of the cages yet, have been letting them steep in ATF and acetone based on advice to proceed with caution.  I'll try to tug one out this weekend.

Thanks

Rick

[21raceabout]

Hi Terry - We got to work on the cages today and they just about fell out.  Only needed the puller to make sure they came out straight.  No problems at all.  The bore in the block is 1.690", the diameter of cage is 1.685" (based on measuring one).  It was interesting to speculate why the last mechanic mixed up the valves and cages despite the punch markings being quite visible.  Also got our first look down into the cylinders and was heartened to see that they look spotless, no signs of rust.

Rick

[Terry Wiegand]

I have enough 'Light Six' rings left for two complete sets.  I have enough of the larger (1918 and up) rings left to do three engines.  As I told you guys when I posted these photos, when these are gone, that is it.  I really do not plan on making anymore of them.  Thank you to those who have gotten sets for their cars.  If you are considering a set, I would encourage you not to wait too long.

 

Thanks guys,

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

Phone - (620) 665-7672

[Terry Wiegand]

I want to let everyone know that the sealing rings are gone.  The exhaust valve cage kept the same diameter from the Light Six of 1916 thru the end of the 1923 models, so I had rings made accordingly.  I got a hold of some really good brass that lent itself to these pieces very well.  I used it all and I do not think that it will be cost effective to try and get more of it.  Given that, I do not plan to do any more of them any time soon.  Thanks to all who got them.  I am glad to help fellow Buick enthusiasts and by doing this the way I did it kept the cost reasonable for everyone.  Thanks again.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

[Bob Engle]

Terry:

 

Could you supply the engineering drawings?  I don't plan to pull  my valves at the present time, but you never know what will be needed in the future.  I see reference to Light Six.  Is there a heavy six??  Is the  engine in my 1917 D45 considered a Light Six?

 

Thanks for the photos and post.

Bob Engle

[Terry Wiegand]

Bob, the Light Six was introduced in the 40 Series cars in 1916.  1916 was also the last year for the Big Six used in the 50 Series cars.  The smaller engine was 224 cubic inches and the big one was 331 cubic inches.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

[Morgan Wright]

So I assume the 1918 engine, the 242, was not called Light Six anymore because the 331 was gone by then?

[Terry Wiegand]

In 1918 there was only the one six cylinder engine and that was what started out as the 'Light Six'.  The 'Big Six' lasted three model years - 1914, 1915, and 1916.  I guess it would be redundant to call the 1918 engine a 'Light Six' because it was the ONLY six that was in production in 1918 forward.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

[Morgan Wright]

Yeah, that's what I meant. And the 242 was the only 6 until 1924 when they came up with a 255 for sporty cars.

.

And for 1925 they dropped the 242 and named the 255 the "Master Six" and offered the "Standard Six" which was a much smaller 6 to replace the 4 cylinder models.

 

All bets were off for 1931!!