How I repaired my tie rod ends

[David_Leech]

Sorry I didn't take pictures

 

Disassembled the tie rod ends. Cleaned thoroughly. Found the ball socket bushings had worn into the tie rod ends castings causing the ball socket to be loose. What to do? They aren't available (at least I can't find any) so they must be rebuilt

 

I managed to locate a set of King pin bushings that were almost the correct diameter to press into the worn casting. I believe they were from a Hino truck. They were split bushings. I trimmed them to size with a zip disc and removed the nylon coating. Notched the bushings to accept the locating tab. Next I pressed them into the castings. Perfect tight fit.

 

Now the ball socket bushings would no longer fit the tie rod end castings. I ran the outside of the ball socket bushings against a grinding wheel to bring them to the same diameter as the bushed tie rod castings. They were a tight fit and had to be tapped into place.

 

I drilled through the new bushing from the grease point. Reinstalled the end cap. One of the end caps had to be tack welded on. I located suitable rubber dust boots. Reinstalled and greased them up. Set the toe and took it for a drive. Nice tight front end and I no longer feel like I might die driving it!

[keiser31]

For what vehicle was this done? I have been searching years for a set for my 1931 DB DH6 to no avail.

Edited August 7, 2017 by keiser31 (see edit history)

[David_Leech]

This was done on a 1928 Standard Six. Alternatively you can take them to a specialist that rebuilds power brake components like wheel cylinders and Master cylinders. They might be able to hone and stainless steel sleeve your ends back to spec. The bushings I used were bronze. They may not hold up forever, but something had to be done for now. Mine were totally trashed. The ball socket was intact showing very little wear. The bushings had worn into the cast ends, therefore loosening their hold on the ball sockets. The bushings are two half circles that encase the ball end of the tapered tie rod end stud. They do not form a full circle around the ball end. There are gaps between the two halves. I have ordered a parts book and intend to search for new old stock ones. Until then, I will just be sure to keep them well greased.

 

[David_Leech]

If anyone else has taken a set apart and has pictures, please upload them. It will make describing this process much easier

[Spinneyhill]

DUFOR catalog, 1959. Dodge 27-29 takes their number TE8. It fits 126; 128; 129 after car no. A998614 4 cyl; Victory 6; 130; 131; Std 6; 140; 141; DA; Senior 6; 2251; 2252; DB 6 cyl. This tie rod end only fits these Dodge Brothers vehicles.

 

TE8 is Female, 7/8-18 thread, 0.721 - 0.568 taper 7/8 long with 1/2-20 ball bolt thread.

 

Hopes this helps in the hunt for replacements (1 LH and 1 RH)

[Grimy]

While sorting some literature today, I just laid hands on a 1939 McQuay-Norris catalog and a 1940 Thompson, which seem to go back to 1928 or so.  If you need McQ or Thompson part numbers, just let me know and I'll look them up.  I do NOT have any of the tie rod ends for these cars.

[David_Leech]

Please do! I ordered myself the 1914 to 1933 Dodge Brothers passenger car dealer parts book. I was hoping to use it to at least find the original Dodge number. 

 

The best I could find for this car is the link below

 

http://shop.rareparts.com/smtp/shopdisplaycategories.asp?iyear=1928&imake=0016|DODGE&imodel=7246|VICTORY SIX&iproduct=0049|STEERING, GEAR, PUMP & COMPONENTS

[Spinneyhill]

2 hours ago, David_Leech said:

The best I could find for this car is the link below

They list a tie rod with ends for Victory Six. They have made a new rod to use male threaded ends. You could probably make the rod yourself (a tube with a thread in the ends, although the left hand thread will require a LH tap) and use widely available modern ends.

[Guest]

Nice work Dave.

[Grimy]

Scans of pages from my 1939 McQuay and 1940 Thompson catalogs were too difficult to read, so I entered the 1928-39 tie rod info (passenger cars only) into the (hopefully) attached Excel spreadsheet. McQ and Thompson used the same numbers.  What's worked for me: Begin with a Google or eBay search for the numbers you need without the company name, e.g. "ES-7 tie rod"

1928-39 Dodge Tie Rod ends.xlsx

 

[Edit:  Some can't open the Excel file, so I've converted it to a pdf which appears a few comments below.  Sorry for the inconvenience.}

Edited August 9, 2017 by Grimy
Added comment in brackets (see edit history)

[Spinneyhill]

5 hours ago, Grimy said:

1928-39 Dodge Tie Rod ends.xlsx

 

My system can't open this file. I don't know why. I don't have MS Office. Is it just me?

 

I opened the file in a HEX viewer. There is no data as far as I can see, just error messages. The forum software has done something odd to it. Did you drop it in the attachments panel or in the text window?

 

Might you be able to print the sheet to .pdf? Thank you.

Edited August 8, 2017 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[David_Leech]

I cannot open it either

[Grimy]

Drat--it's a simple Excel file.  I'll convert to pdf or perhaps a Word table but have an appt for the next few hours.

[David_Leech]

No worries. The car has waited 89 years, it can wait a while more?

[Grimy]

The Excel file a couple of comments above opened for me, but here is a pdf--but the process somehow moved a comment to a different position.  Hope the data are clear to all of you.

1928-39 Dodge Tie Rod Ends.pdf

[Spinneyhill]

6 hours ago, Grimy said:

The Excel file a couple of comments above opened for me, but here is a pdf--but the process somehow moved a comment to a different position.  Hope the data are clear to all of you.

1928-39 Dodge Tie Rod Ends.pdf

Sorry, that is an XML file and not opening for me either. It will open on your computer because it contains the style information it wants.

 

Did you save the .xls file and then use "choose files" in the Insert Other Media panel?

Edited August 9, 2017 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Grimy]

5 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Did you save the .xls file and then use "choose files" in the Insert Other Media panel?

On both files (.xlsx and .pdf) I used "choose files" on the left side.  With the ,pdf I first tried to use the options on the right bottom, but no joy.

 

If one of you gents wants to PM me a personal email address, I'll send you both versions and you can post for the information of all.  I now have about a hour in the process and that's about all I can spare.  As I mentioned, I had the catalogs at hand and they were easy to get to.

[keiser31]

Maybe I can help....

[Grimy]

Thanks, John, you did it!

[Spinneyhill]

Xclnt! Thank you both.Funny sort of a problem to have.

 

The DC line makes clear something I was not understanding in my own old catalog. The ET-9 is the tie rod itself and must be installed with the ends. I suspect this is because the ends are shorter than the originals and the rod must be slightly longer to compensate.

[David_Leech]

I don't think ANYTHING is straight forward or cheap for these cars. Those Ford fellows sure have it easy sourcing parts.

[Grimy]

1 hour ago, David_Leech said:

I don't think ANYTHING is straight forward or cheap for these cars. Those Ford fellows sure have it easy sourcing parts.

This story will make Dodge tie rod ends look easy:

 

When I acquired my 1934 Pierce in 2006, I found that the left tie rod end was very sloppy and the right was not much better.  Beyond that, the tie rod had been used to lift the car by some previous owner, and needed replacing.  Those 1939 and 1940 catalogs had no listing for Pierce tie rod ends after 1932, probably due to very low production through the last Pierce in January 1938.

 

I removed the offending left tie rod end to measure various aspects including the taper and the eye diameter.  A couple of years earlier I had replaced the 1930 Pierce tie rods ends, which mercifully were relatively common and used on other cars (ES-6), which were not difficult (but also not cheap) to find.  The tie rod threads were identical on the two cars, and the take-off ES-6 had the same taper, but the studs were too long.  I ordered another set of ES-6 and had to add a flat washer and a split lock washer to raise the castellated nut to the level of the cotter pin hole.  A machinist friend cut and threaded a piece of bar stock to fabricate a new tie rod.  This has worked well for 12,000 miles!  Out of pocket cost was under $200.

 

With the help of a more modern (postwar) catalog with taper, stud, and other dimensions, I found that ES-174 ends used on medium-duty Dodge and International trucks 1947-50 would be a perfect replacement for the 1934 ends.  I had a standing search for those on eBay for 5 years and never got a hit.

 

One lesson learned:  For cars with single tie rods, these can be fabricated easily to match the threads on ends which fit the eye and which are sufficiently robust for the car being repaired.  Find what WORKS!

[keiser31]

Rare Parts does not list everything they carry and have been known to carry some rare tie rod ends. You have to call to get them to look.