Jump to content

Early 1920s Studebaker ?


Recommended Posts

At last I can think of something for all the people wanting to sell me parts. I will eventually require a horn and a horn button for the centre of the steering wheel. 
To meet present day saftey requirements I will also need two combined Stop/Tail lamps although I will probably simply buy repoduction lamps for those and I will not be needing them for some time yet. I will probably manage to find a suitable horn at a swap-meet locally which just leaves the horn button if someone can show me a close up photograph of the button and how it mounts onto the centre of the steering wheel/column. Perhaps someone  can tell me the make and model horn I should be looking for too.

 

Bj.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Golly! How small is the world? I have earlier today recieved an email from Greg Diffen, a member of the Autralian Historical Studebaker Register who is now living in England. This what he had to say having seen the photo of my Studebaker. Rotating Spokes is the name of the clubs bi-monthly newsletter.

 

Hi Bernie,
I have just opened up the latest Rotating Spokes here in the UK where I now live and seen your inquiry about this car.

It may have been one I was trying to buy years ago, but the farmer would never sell it. I did visit them several times but until the old Cocky was dead then it was a no go.

Back in about 1987 I went up to a wedding with a girlfriend in Dookie. The couple getting married, did tell me there was an old Studebaker on a farm out there and sent me out to the farm to see it.
If it is the same car it was the first farm on the South side of Cashel Road in between Cosgrove-Caniambo Road and Kellows road. The farmer was always pleasant enough and a great guy to talk to.

Somewhere here I would have pictures of the car but have no idea where. 

The car had come onto the farm before the war from memory and been used a bit around the farm and parked up. I can't remember if the car had been on the farm since new or not, but it may have been. My memory is hazy on this as it was so long ago. I think the farm was traded at some point before the war or in the recession and the car was on the property then and came with the farm.

It was a rust free car stored in an open sided barn. The hood was going to pot and the interior was original. It looked like a great car to restore at the time.

It may be the same car, but without looking at my old pictures taken of it on the farm, I can't be sure.


Regards
Greg Diffen

 

Below are two photographs of the farm in question.

 

Bernie J

 

9407491_01_x.jpg.e8b50759b9cb58b47a74e78ab5fd1fe1.jpg9407491_03_x.jpg.f58d4cdc5e9145b314ed3c4facfd1d26.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Bernie,

Interesting story on the farm.  It would be great if that were the same car to help you piece together its history.  Below is the horn and button.

The Spartan AJ is the horn on the far right. The AU model is third one on the right and for the Special Six.

The horn button fits inside the spark advance handle.  An armored 16 ga wire runs up the center of the steering column inside the tube attached to the spark advance.  When the horn button is depressed it completes the low side of the circuit, that is....a power wire runs to one terminal on the horn and the other side runs to the steering column where the horn button completes the circuit through the ground via the steering gearbox itself which is bolted to the frame (ground).  Hope that helps.

Scott

 

DSC07666.thumb.JPG.ee377d09189308d61ef129ac9a193a9a.JPGDSC07722.thumb.JPG.96655fe085952f8c46fb1708f111066a.JPGDSC07723.thumb.JPG.2456e77eb4c6ee1e655855c0c47d3cf9.JPGDSC07724.thumb.JPG.1bbf9d0799824fb2ca72ad151b92851c.JPGDSC07725.thumb.JPG.c0e6c60a0b30c253de81c37527e97124.JPG

Edited by Stude Light (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Scott

You are a fantastic fund of information, I have now ordered a Service Manual from Faxon. If you don't have a spare Horn and Horn Button perhaps there is someone else reading this that has one (of each) for sale. Meanwhile I have been in contact with two other members of the Historical Studebaker Register, both confirm that my car is the one that came from a Farm Clearance Sale at Dookie in central Victoria. This being so it would tend to confirm that the 36,016 milage is genuine.

 

HSR Member Graham Mc Cormack has written in an email received yesterday:-

Bernie, in regard to your inquiry about your Studebaker Light Six. I am almost certain that this is the car that was auctioned as per your article at a place called Merrigum which is near Shepparton. I believe it would be less than 8 to 10 years ago, my guess would be about 5 years ago.
 The car was in a chook shed along with several newer cars. And could not be removed without partially dismantling the shed. I was the losing bidder on this car
And as far as my memory goes it sold for a figure around ten thousand dollars. To identify its year you need to check the casting numbers below the valve cover
on the LH side of the block. I remember it being either 1920 or 1921 making it a very early example. Remember the Americans date things in reverse to us, so the year would be listed first followed by the month and day.
 
The instruments and headlights differed to my 1922 model. 
Best of luck.  Graham McCormick

 

For readers unfamiliar with colloquial Australian a "Chook" is a Hen and a "Chook-shed" is a Hen-house.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Just diverting slightly from the subject of the Studebaker I think that I should let some of the people who don't know me, have some idea of what I am all about.  Both the cars seen here were subjects of "threads"in Our Cars & Restoration projects on this Forum. 

The two "Finished Dixie Flyer photographs were taken at the original Kentucky Wagon Co works at Third Street, Louisville Ky.

 

1922-dixie-flyer-firefly-before.jpg.d0f94f49abebb1ac34ab788650e4c29b.jpg59b78b47f049e_DixieFlyer-Photofrom3rdStreet.thumb.jpg.7dc6ff5cf7daf645a76df621d5edda96.jpg

Unknown.jpeg.c691ac3648ec8ffb444264b4103d3a1d.jpeg 

 

 

 

 

59b73d29dfa40_1.FarmSale23Packard114.jpg.387a6622e61537af01203d07b7f5d6cb.jpg

 

3495876.jpg.28ce146051cc6d583da5f606afbe0c5e.jpg59b7895d8598d_HertiageVehicleofthemonth.7.JPG.b6d7c354bcedefedb3360ec438630acf.JPG

59b789fb5be64_HeritageVehicleofthemonth._8.JPG.2c3bb98f19ab13289e1955245d078de4.JPG

 

 

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yippee !

Don't look now but following a visit from our son Steve and with his invaluable assistance we managed to get the engine "rocking" gently in top gear by pushing the car back and forth. Little by little it rocked a little further with each push, then suddenly the motor was free and will now turn over smoothly on the crank handle. My next task will be to remove the oil pan and throughly clean it out before replacing it and refilling with fresh oil.  My next trick will be to go over the magneto and carburettor. Then lots of degreasing and cleaning under the hood (bonnet).

Earlier today I ordered a Service Manual from Paxtons so it is all systems go.  More and more I am convinced that I would be totally wrong to even think about a ground up, bare chassis restoration and/or a bare metal re-paint. If I can, with the least amount of interference bring it back to where it was before being relegated to the Fowl-house in the 1940s that should be sufficient. 

I am increasingly confident that I will be able to establish that the milage shown on the speedo is indeed correct at 36,016 miles.  Hopefully I will be able to proceed even further without the need to remove the cylinder head. 

 

Bernie j.

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, oldcar said:

Yippee !

Don't look now but following a visit from our son Steve and with his invaluable assistance we managed to get the engine "rocking" gently in top gear by pushing the car back and forth. Little by little it rocked a little further with each push, then suddenly the motor was free and will now turn over smoothly on the crank handle. My next task will be to remove the oil pan and throughly clean it out before replacing it and refilling with fresh oil.  My next trick will be to go over the magneto and carburettor. Then lots of degreasing and cleaning under the hood (bonnet).

Earlier today I ordered a Service Manual from Paxtons so it is all systems go.  More and more I am convinced that I would be totally wrong to even think about a ground up, bare chassis restoration and/or a bare metal re-paint. If I can, with the least amount of interference bring it back to where it was before being relegated to the Fowl-house in the 1940s that should be sufficient. 

I am increasingly confident that I will be able to establish that the milage shown on the speedo is indeed correct at 36,016 miles.  Hopefully I will be able to proceed even further without the need to remove the cylinder head. 

 

Bernie j.

That is great.  Could save you a lot of time and headache. I agree that you should not restore it and do your best to preserve what you have.  It is only original once, looks to be fairly low mileage and may be the oldest surviving Light Six worldwide.

Scott

Link to post
Share on other sites

Some progress, perhaps very minor but progress of a sort. Being one of those people who like to dot their i and cross their t I have just this morning bought 25 new 1/2 inch x 20 high tensile nuts and hardened washers to suit along with a new 1/2 inch die-nut so I can clean up the threads on the head studs and fit the new washers and nuts. Hopefully a step in the right direction. While I was doing these I notices something else that will require some attention. When I removed the spark plugs I noticed that one had some "plumber's teflon tape" wound around the thread so It looks as though at least one  cylinder will require a "heli'coil" fitted to the sparkplug hole. The next task will be to find some new spark plugs as some of the existing ones have had a hard life. I would sooner not  use adaptors & fit 14mm plugs. Perhaps some of the other early (aluminium head) Light Six owners can advise what spark plugs they are using. Brand, heat range etc. and where they buy them. One option I have used in the past was to use (in Australia) Ford Falcon 6 cylinder 18mm tapered seat plugs (NGK A6FS) after machining off the taper and fitting a suitable washer borrowed from some old 18mm plugs. or if I can find them NGK A6 which have a conventional flat seat with a standard type washer. These  are 12mm reach with a 25.4 hex. (In other vintage cars with 18mm plugs.)

 

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello OnSafari

Now with the new tires on it I will be able to push it out and give it a wash then I can start to give it paint a light cut and polish. I need to remove one door so I can have the paint colour matched. I am trying to reach a balance between spending time on mechanical work and body. I would also like to make a start on restoring the interior trim but unfortunately there is only one of me. 

 

Bernie j

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Bernie,

I use Champion 1-COM in my Light Six. They are the closest I can find to the originals.  I occasionally find them on eBay in NOS condition.  I buy the ones with the brass top covers for the period correct look. The attached is my research over the years. If you aren't worried about correct look then the Autolite 3076 or Champion 518 should be readily available.

Scott

 

59b9d7b0f0cd5_LightSixSparkPlugs.JPG.6018161dcc8785c133b4cda622002c8f.JPG

 

59b9d828e8c3c_Champion1-Com.jpg.2a778824ea9593d8f34010dd215bd58a.jpg59b9d82aa192b_SplitdorfNo5.jpg.7f8b07a12d2b2995281e502e237d05be.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, oldcar said:

Hello OnSafari

Now with the new tires on it I will be able to push it out and give it a wash then I can start to give it paint a light cut and polish. I need to remove one door so I can have the paint colour matched. I am trying to reach a balance between spending time on mechanical work and body. I would also like to make a start on restoring the interior trim but unfortunately there is only one of me. 

 

Bernie j

Thanks Bernie, the painted wheels and new tyres would have substantially improved the appearance alone. The choice of a satin type finish is wise.

 

Lyndon

Edited by OnSafari (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Get yourself a set of NKG AG-6 plugs.  Same heat range as W14 and 3076.  I changed to NKG years ago and found they lasted me twice as long (20,000 miles) as the others.  I also found that the cheapest place to buy them was our local Porsche dealer (40% less than NAPA or JB Auto hers).

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Tinindian

Thank you for the suggestion, I have been using NGK in the Lagonda for some time but have found them prone to "wet" when starting from cold if I flood the carbs.

I have just ordered a set (6) new (in the box) Champion from eBay.  Delivered to the letter box for less than I could get them from a local "Autobarn" (parts shop). It may still be a little while before I need them but I find it better to buy these things as they are available.

 

Bernie j.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello 
I think I may have discovered one reason, if not the main one, as to why there has been no attempt  to persuade Studebaker engine to start.
This morning I spoke at some length to Sandra (Sandy) Tilley the daughter of the (late) Merrigum owner. She tells me that her father had owned the car for at least 30 years and in all that time it was not started. 
This may be have been a very simple problem. The thread in the cylinder head to take the spark plug for the front cylinder has been stripped and a repair similar to one of todays “Helicoils” had been made but It had been “Stuck” onto the thread at the bottom of the spark plug and then for a second time the thread in the head stripped . At this  stage all attempts to repair this seem to have been have been abandoned. What is now needed is a plug  that will screw into the head and that can be drilled and taped to take a new spark plug. While doing this it may be an ideal time to make adaptors to take 14 mm spark plugs for all the six cylinders.*
Sandy also told me that her father found that after leaving it for some time the motor had become “stuck" and could not be turned over.

No further attempts to start it were made. I also discovered that I had not tightened the wheel “Nut”for the left hand rear wheel. The noise we were hearing when rocking the car back and forth was simply the hub slipping in the wheel.
* Your comments are welcome. 


We are off in the morning to drive in the Lagonda to Hamilton (200 miles) for the start of the VSCC "Wimera Wander”. 

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

George Calder in Christchurch, NZ,  makes plug adaptors, amongst other things. I have a set in both the GE Studebaker and the 1929 Plymouth. Call him on 0064 3 338 5372. A good guy. He works out of his garage in Hoon Hay, Christchurch, reconditioning engines. He is involved in the project building new Bentley 4.5 litre engines. Interesting story here of his working relationship with the late Bob Turnbull.  https://www.odt.co.nz/lifestyle/magazine/rare-engineer

Link to post
Share on other sites

We have just returned last night from a very enjoyable four days touring in the Lagonda Rapier. Please note that is actually driving in the car not towing it in a climate controlled fully enclosed trailer. In the four days we covered about 1,600 miles mainly on narrow single lane country roads with practically no other traffic for much of the time. That is apart from things like 30/98 Vauxhauls and a Bugatti, plus one or two Lancias. When we arrived home we found that our friendly post delivery man had after realising that we were not at home brought our mail in and placed it on our front door mat. Among this mail were two parcels with USA mail and Australian Customs lables on them. A third parcel came in a local mail  bag, it contained pack with six new 18mm D 16 Champion spark plugs in it. The smaller US Mail one contained the original pattern and obviously aged Briggs & Stratton ignition key #39 to fit the Studebakers ignition/light switch. 

 A larger parcel came from Faxon Auto Literature with one of their excellent reprints of the 1920-21 Light Six service manual.

First thing was to give the internals of the switch a generous "squirt" of penetrating oil. Then after some carefully 'wiggling' the key fitted neatly into the switch after a few more minutes of gentle "wiggling" the key turns switching the Ignition part of the switch on and off. All quite remarkable after it had spent much of its 97 years unused.

I have just had a quick look through the Faxon reprint and it would appear to be a very faithful copy of the original manual with very clear and informative illustrations and written instructions. a valuable addition to my small but growing Studebaker library.

It may take a day or two to give the Lagonda a thorough service and clean then I can be back to work on the Studebaker. 

DSCN5624.jpg

DSCN5627.jpg

 

DSCN5628.thumb.jpg.e28b851b9184488f7016a99133291b99.jpg

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you Paul

 

Now a question .....

I have actually walked around the Studebaker since our return, trying to decide what to do next. The more that I look at the car the more puzzled I tend to become. Not only does my cars body NOT have a cowl vent but also the provision for the protective "rubbing strip" around the scuttle is non existent and it seems that the protective webbing is something of an "after-thought". It is only attached across the top of the scuttle and does not  continue down the sides

Is this the same for other Light Six bodies?

It strikes me that it is almost like a prototype or a "pre-production" body. I would be interested to see how this compares with some other Light Six bodies.

Looking at the photo, the location of the holes that once held the decorative bead around the centre line would indicate that it (the bead) would have interfered with the seating of the hood. Again the Gold pin stripe runs right to the edge of the scuttle

Also where can I find numbers of "Right Hand Drive", Light Six built for a particular year, especially 1920 ?

 

Bernie j.

 

DSCN5630.thumb.jpg.5cbca9f8e7c1d74dd07d4224a6227e9c.jpgDSCN5632.thumb.jpg.4ccc74bf3d9298da98f8d7775257ddce.jpgDSCN5631.thumb.jpg.0dfe2720d37a99d661bfdbb1423a0d9e.jpg

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Bernie,

Based on your chassis and engine serial numbers I think we have firmly established that you have a 1920 model as the numbers fit the records that exist. Being a 1920 it would not have a shroud ventilator. Those were added on the 1922 models and beyond.

It's a bit hard to see in the one photo, but it looks like there are holes in the body going down the sides (right along the edge) where the hoodlace would attach via split rivets. The hoodlace was a four piece design along the back side of the hood....oops, I mean bonnet.

In the top photo, the hole to the left of the trim screw hole looks to be the top hole for the hoodlace.

Scott

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

You are no doubt correct Scott,

It is just that I am more used to seeing a "Joggle" running along the edge of the scuttle where the windlace for hood sits.

I would still be interested to learn how many Right Hand Drive Light Sixes were built in 1920.

 

Bernie j.

Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, oldcar said:

You are no doubt correct Scott,

It is just that I am more used to seeing a "Joggle" running along the edge of the scuttle where the windlace for hood sits.

I would still be interested to learn how many Right Hand Drive Light Sixes were built in 1920.

 

Bernie j.

I guess the Studebaker Museum archives might help?  Do you have any evidence as to where the car was built? Canada maybe, or South Bend? The standard colour was black on black and wood wheels so maybe your car was special order?   I know Studebaker did build cars in Canada but which models and when I don't know. The Standard Catalog makes mention of Canadian production as early as 1918, but is short on details. It does say that only about 7,000 Series 20 cars were built in total, but doesn't give details of where. The introduction date was April 1920. I guess they went to the 1921 specification models in mid 1920, and built about 28,000 of those.. As they built another 45,000 Series 22 models I guess they were cranking up the production rate. Studebaker was certainly going through a period of rapid expansion at the time - 1920 sales about 50,000, by 1924 it was around three times that. It is mentioned that there was a new factory for the Light Six. The Crestline Studebaker history book has some info re the new 'South Bend Plant Two'.   It says that delays in getting the new factory going held back the introduction date.  Mention is made that serial number 1,106,001 was the last aluminium head car. 

 

All of the 1920s Studes I have seen here in NZ seem to be US cars.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you nzcarnerd

Sorry, but I have little or no knowledge of my cars origin. I am endeavouring to learn as much as I can about it, but it's history is very vague.

Only a very few people still alive seem to have even known of its existence prior to my purchase just a few weeks back. As a car exported to Australia when new in 1920 it was only driven up to 1942 and covered just 36016 miles in those 22 years. Engine Number shown on the registration disk, 2350 is  correct. 

About 1,600 miles per year#. 

# For comparison, we have just last week driven that far in our 1934 Lagonda Rapier in four days.

See also:-

 

Bj..

Reg Label .jpg

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, oldcar said:

Thank you nzcarnerd

Sorry, but I have little or no knowledge of my cars origin. I am endeavouring to learn as much as I can about it, but it's history is very vague.

Only a very few people still alive seem to have even known of its existence prior to my purchase just a few weeks back. As a car exported to Australia when new in 1920 it was only driven up to 1942 and covered just 36016 miles in those 22 years. Engine Number shown on the registration disk, 2350 is  correct. 

About 1,600 miles per year#. 

# For comparison, we have just last week driven that far in our 1934 Lagonda Rapier in four days.

See also:-

 

Bj..

Reg Label .jpg

I don't even know how you would be able to tell if it was built in Canada. Because the factory was only just across the river from Detroit I doubt there were many differences. There may have been some Canadian supplied fittings? I don't know. I was told our 1929 Canadian Plymouth has different body screws to the US ones.

 

There seems to be a dearth of good info on the net. EMF started there in 1910 in Walkerville Ontario and Studebaker stopped in Canada in 1939. The plant that was used post war is in Hamilton Ontario and was built during the war for armaments production.

Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, oldcar said:

Thank you

I have sent an enquiry to the Studebaker Museum this afternoon. I will let you know if I get a reply.

 

Bernie j.

It would be interesting to know whether or not someone connected to the museum monitors this page, and sort of expects enquiries as they arrive.

Link to post
Share on other sites

At the Studebaker National Museum, Andy Beckman is the archivist.  While he is an dedicated Studebaker guy, I don't think he actively monitors this forum.  However, he usually responds to email requests in a day or so.  His direct email is abeckman (at) studebakermuseum dot org.

 

Here is the page about services from the Archives.  They do have 70 tons of original Studebaker drawings for almost any part you can think of.

https://studebakermuseum.org/archives-and-education/about-the-archives/

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately you won't find a lot of info prior to the late 20s at the museum but it's worth a try.

 

Pretty sure your car was built out of Walkerville, Ontario. They had chassis shipped from South Bend then final assembled the right hand drive bodies and exported as "British made" to get around tariffs. As best I can tell, all the South Bend cars were black only and the export cars came in a few colors.

Scott

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Garry

I sent an email yesterday and had a reply from Andrew Beckman this morning. I have just sent him a reply with another question regarding numbers of RHDrive Light Sixes in 1920. He was able to tell me that my car would have been built in South Bend.

 

Hi Scott.

Certainly your theory about the savings in Tariffs payable is very valid. As you will see in my next post #152, the Australian market was very influenced by  the need to appear "British Empire Built" in the  period following WW1. 

 

Bj.

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank You Scott

My next question was to be around the origin of the colour "Belgium Blue" . At this time many older people in Australia and New Zealand are reminded of loved ones lost in the battles 100 years ago in Northern France and Belgium. ( ANZACS) I know that there was some involvement of American Soldiers in WW1 too and wonder if the choice of the colour name had some patriotic relevance. My own mother, then a teenager, lost two of her brothers as young soldiers, one in the battles in Flanders.  That war (1914-18) would have been over less than two years by 1920.

 

Bernie j.

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I need to jump in here. As to colors for the light six. The manual clearly shows Light Sixes in Black and Gray from 1920 forward. There is no delineation anywhere that I can find that gray was for export only that is only light sixes hypothesis. The 1920 sales brochure indicates they only came in black but later brochures list other wheel colors and body colors. Your car may have been painted the blue used on the special six as they would have had that in the factory in South Bend.

By 1924 the Light Six was facing stiff competition and they even offered nickel radiators along with all the colors. From what I have been told black is the cheapest color to paint a car as it covers up many imperfections. In the 1920's most cars were repainted black if they got a repaint. These cars were brush painted and the dry time was up to 2 weeks at the factory. The tops were supplied to studebaker by DRYDEK and they came in black or khaki.

1920 EJ Black Gray   EH Blue, Purple Lake      EG Green  page 118 and 119 of parts book

1921 EJ Black Gray EH Blue EG Green  page 118 and 119 of parts book

1922 EJ Black Gray EL Blue Gray EK Blue Gray  p. 115 p.118, p.119 p.120

1923 EM Black Princess Louise Lake  p.118, p.119 p.120

1924 EM Black Brewstr Grn Oxfrd Grn Parisian Red , Blue, Military Gray EL Black Princess Louise Lake Parisian Red EK Black Princess Louise Lake Parisian Red p 118 p. 119 p.120

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Studeboy

Thank you for your input, My car is undoubtedly blue and there is nothing that would suggest that it has ever been anything else. I doubt that in the comparatively short time it was in use prior to WW2 it would have had a bare-metal repaint. Just where the name "Belgium Blue" came from I cannot remember and will have to retrace my steps to discover it's origin. I am told by a Historian Friend who claims to be an expert on paint colours that Belbium Blue is a frequently used colour on British cars. As my car was quite apparently built for the export market perhaps the Blue paint was part of the package. i.e. Right hand drive, wire spoke wheels and magneto ignition. In addition it has, now badly worn Nickel on the radiator surround and windscreen frame and pillars which looks to be original.

Could you please send me an email with the copy of the parts book page as it tends to be a little blurred on my screen.  twooldlags@gmail.com.

I hope to collect the top while I am away next week. I believe that this could very well be the original material. I have one of the rear side screens and it is a black "ripple" rubberised material with a khaki twill on the inside. It is interesting that it has "Lift the Dot fastenings and that those on one half ate fitted "back to front" as they must have been intended to face into the car. I will not know exactly where on the car this section was fitted until I get the rest of the hood and fit it to the car. Apart from the translucent (window) section the fabric is in excellent condition, considering its age.

 

The more I try to sort out my car's history the more it tries to hide from me  and confuse me. 

 

Bernie j.

 

59cafd6d410bd_WimmeraWanderEntries..thumb.jpeg.004b1ff3bd27f0430673765eb3a503ed.jpeg

59cafb6e94f28_WimmeraWanderEntries.1.thumb.jpeg.d9b2e51a6c89ae5591e341919891fdfc.jpeg

 

Edited by oldcar (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...