avgwarhawk

Magic Potions

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If you like your fuel you can keep it. If you like your additive you can keep it .....................................Bob

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5 minutes ago, Bhigdog said:

If you like your fuel you can keep it. If you like your additive you can keep it .....................................Bob

You are now required to buy an electric vehicle.......the government. 

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3 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

You are now required to buy an electric vehicle.......the government. 

 

But you can only get it from an approved dealer at the price they dictate........................Bob

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40 minutes ago, Bhigdog said:

 

But you can only get it from an approved dealer at the price they dictate........................Bob

Or penalties will be accessed....the IRS.

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If the vehicle, fuel, or additive are used in a location other than the point of purchase all taxes must voluntarily be submitted to the appropriate collection location in the area of actual use.

 

Rural broadband coming to a transaction near you. They're gonna git cha. "But we are helping the farmers become competitive in the 21st century."

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Occasionally I will run 5 gallons of 100+ octane Av gas and the rest premium gas with Lucas fuel treatment.  Been doing this for the last 20 years and everything runs great.

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On 8/3/2017 at 6:05 PM, KongaMan said:

This sounds like those old water injection systems then JC Whitney et al used to sell:

 

"Ever notice how much better your car runs right after it rains?  Now you can have that every day with our new Hydro Boost system.  A simple installation and you'll have that increased performance whenever you drive.  Only $59.95.  Buy yours now!"  :D

 

I always wanted a JC Whitney water injector because, yes, my little fuel injected 1972 2002tii did run better on foggy days, WAY better.  Little champ just zoomed with damp intake.

 

AND I used to get water in a tank of gas fairly regularly in the late 1970's for some reason and would cure the problem by just pouring in an entire bottle of rubbing alcohol to break up the water and run it thru the carb.  It worked and was a lot easier than draining the tank.  And yes, Techron does help clean the injectors and SeaFoam, and Purple Magic and MMO and I'll probably blow some dough on K-100.  I think all these makers figure some dude with an extra $10 will spring for a bottle!

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"Top Tier" gasoline has little to do with ethanol content or related phase separation issues.  It's more about fuel "detergents" and such that are supposed to address particular fuel-related issues of "cleanliness".  On YouTube, there's a guy names "Chris Fixx" that has many videos of tests he's done with fuel system "cleaners" and inspects the piston tops of the test vehicles, before and after, with a borescope for his computer.  MANY of the "killer" "max cleaning action" fuel additives clean little, with many cleaning "none", with respect to accumulated carbon on the piston top.  Even the more accepted "good" ones strike me as being more marginal than really effective in this "de-carbon" function.  

 

I suspect that much of this is due to EPA regulations, which apparently have been around since the early 1970s.  Dad's pickup used to have issues wit the power piston in the Q=Jet sticking.  Gulf (the original) used to have a fuel cleaner additive called "Tri-Ad" that would free it up within about 100 miles of driving, if that far.  It worked great and then it disappeared!  The local service station owner stated that it did work great, but they had to discontinue it due to EPA regulations.  What it was replaced with didn't work nearly as good, if at all, for what I wanted it to work for.

 

The other thing is that if you use one of these liquids, it doesn't work, then you figure there was nothing to fix anyway?  If it works, so much the better!  Some do, some not so much.  Some work better with carbs than FI.  What works with normal FI might NOT work with Direct Injection--separate liquids for them!

 

NTX5467

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4 hours ago, Dan O said:

 

I always wanted a JC Whitney water injector because, yes, my little fuel injected 1972 2002tii did run better on foggy days, WAY better.  Little champ just zoomed with damp intake.

 

AND I used to get water in a tank of gas fairly regularly in the late 1970's for some reason and would cure the problem by just pouring in an entire bottle of rubbing alcohol to break up the water and run it thru the carb.  It worked and was a lot easier than draining the tank.  And yes, Techron does help clean the injectors and SeaFoam, and Purple Magic and MMO and I'll probably blow some dough on K-100.  I think all these makers figure some dude with an extra $10 will spring for a bottle!

Interesting....the rubbing alcohol that appeared to work. 

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5 minutes ago, NTX5467 said:

"Top Tier" gasoline has little to do with ethanol content or related phase separation issues.  It's more about fuel "detergents" and such that are supposed to address particular fuel-related issues of "cleanliness".  On YouTube, there's a guy names "Chris Fixx" that has many videos of tests he's done with fuel system "cleaners" and inspects the piston tops of the test vehicles, before and after, with a borescope for his computer.  MANY of the "killer" "max cleaning action" fuel additives clean little, with many cleaning "none", with respect to accumulated carbon on the piston top.  Even the more accepted "good" ones strike me as being more marginal than really effective in this "de-carbon" function.  

 

I suspect that much of this is due to EPA regulations, which apparently have been around since the early 1970s.  Dad's pickup used to have issues wit the power piston in the Q=Jet sticking.  Gulf (the original) used to have a fuel cleaner additive called "Tri-Ad" that would free it up within about 100 miles of driving, if that far.  It worked great and then it disappeared!  The local service station owner stated that it did work great, but they had to discontinue it due to EPA regulations.  What it was replaced with didn't work nearly as good, if at all, for what I wanted it to work for.

 

The other thing is that if you use one of these liquids, it doesn't work, then you figure there was nothing to fix anyway?  If it works, so much the better!  Some do, some not so much.  Some work better with carbs than FI.  What works with normal FI might NOT work with Direct Injection--separate liquids for them!

 

NTX5467

 

My interest is not so much the top tier gas and cleaning capabilities or lack there of. From my experience with gas, if it is clean out of the storage tank it will be clean entering the fuel system until final burn. However, octane is something I have interest in. I'm more so interested in the additives that may or may not keep our idle carbs clean.   Our carbs sit and fester with gas that sits. Of the magic potions I have tried only this K100 has made a difference in performance. If that is the case for me is then running this magic potion going to prevent carb problems from sitting long periods of time?  Time will tell. 

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6 minutes ago, avgwarhawk said:

Interesting....the rubbing alcohol that appeared to work. 

Bench test (carefully in your driveway) first, since rubbing alcohol is already 30% water.  Magic Potions may for may not work, but at least there is a better chance they will not hurt anything than using products not labeled for that use.  (kinda like putting trans fluid in the crankcase  --- I'm gonna duck and hide now before all of the "bah gaaawd I've been doing that for 40 years and ain't never..."):lol:

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Common rubbing alcohol is typically 30% water, but isopropyl alcohol that is 90+% is readily available (Walgreens, Walmart, etc.).  99% alcohol is also available (e.g. from Amazon), although it may be harder to find locally.

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You know I gotta say with this Washington heat wave, it's the first time I've experienced vapor lock. I can definitely say the car runs better in 70% humidity with the rains. I'm pretty sure the Australians used water injection to combat extreme heat. Plus colder air is more dense, so the little bit of water in the intake is probably enough to keep ambient intake temperatures cool.

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As far as the intake, remember that fast-moving columns of air are cooler than slower columns.  Add a little volatile liquid to the mix and the temperature drops even more.  The vapor lock issue is not in the intake manifold runners, but back where all of the engine heat exits from under the vehicle, or thereabouts. Add the heat radiated off of the pavement and the heat level expands a good deal.

 

The atf in the motor oil was supposed to be an old trick to quieten ticking valve lifters.  The atf, being of a thinner viscosity than motor oil, it was supposed to be able to get in the nooks and crannies of the engine to establish oil flow so that the oil's detergents could do their work to keep things cleaned.  At least that was the theory.  Never did see or hear that it worked. ATF and water in a Coke bottle, shaken (not stirred) and then drizzled into the carb throttle body area at fast idle (maintained by a 2nd person) made lots of noise, a good deal of smoke, and was supposed to de-carbon the combustion chambers quickly.  From the pops and bangs the engine made, just the percussiveness of those sounds should have knocked those deposits loose.  Either way, less expensive than the more expensive name-brand additives of the day. 

 

"Shade tree fixes" . . .at best.  Of course, many believed those things worked.  You HAVE to believe!  Everybody that did these things was too poor to remove the cylinder head to see if they did!

 

NTX5467 

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19 hours ago, old-tank said:

Bench test (carefully in your driveway) first, since rubbing alcohol is already 30% water.  Magic Potions may for may not work, but at least there is a better chance they will not hurt anything than using products not labeled for that use.  (kinda like putting trans fluid in the crankcase  --- I'm gonna duck and hide now before all of the "bah gaaawd I've been doing that for 40 years and ain't never..."):lol:

 

I have no plans on testing anything outside of bottled miracle juice at the local NAPA. ?  My interest was sparked by K100 as I noticed a difference. Try a second dose next week or so. 

 

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14 hours ago, Beemon said:

You know I gotta say with this Washington heat wave, it's the first time I've experienced vapor lock. I can definitely say the car runs better in 70% humidity with the rains. I'm pretty sure the Australians used water injection to combat extreme heat. Plus colder air is more dense, so the little bit of water in the intake is probably enough to keep ambient intake temperatures cool.

Knock on wood for me, have not experienced vapor lock of any degree on both of my Buicks.  

Concerning water, it is my understanding that dense rainy air allows oxygen and fuel molecules to combine easier. 

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1 hour ago, avgwarhawk said:

Concerning water, it is my understanding that dense rainy air allows oxygen and fuel molecules to combine easier. 

 

I guess that is why on a cool morning with that just between haze and fog my Buick's always seemed to run best?

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On 8/6/2017 at 9:36 AM, dei said:

 

I guess that is why on a cool morning with that just between haze and fog my Buick's always seemed to run best?

To my understanding, yes. Normally when its cold or damp, air is denser, i.e has more oxygen. This is better suited for engine running as the air and fuel mixture mix easier in these conditions. Better mixed fuel and air results in a better volumetric efficiency, which results in more power. 
High performance turbo engine use the aid of an intercooler, which has the effect of cooling the intake air, making it denser and resulting in more power.

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)

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Serious drag racers have weather stations in their trailers for a reason.

The  "air density" meter probably the most useful gauge in the pits.

Humid , hot days at the strip meant slower times.

Cooler, less humid air meant quicker times.

Air pressure, air temperature, and humidity comprise "air density".

Damp wet air requires leaner tunes.  More dry air allows for richer tunes to make more power.

Water molecules in the air are not conducive to burning fuel.

 

I ran an alcohol front engine dragster for a number of years.  The air density meter pretty much dictated

the choice of nozzles on the mechanical fuel injection set up.

 

Gasoline passenger cars are more forgiving, but the principle is the same.

Our Buicks will always run better on a cool, dry autumn evening.

 

 

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21 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

I guess that is why on a cool morning with that just between haze and fog my Buick's always seemed to run best?

 

On those mornings the barometric pressure between one's ear drum and their brain changes. The low pressure makes the brain feel like is might escape and creates endorphins. You can get the same affect by petting a small dog in the passenger seat... or a woman's hair.

Bernie

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On 8/8/2017 at 11:23 AM, FLYER15015 said:

I always run avgas and water injection in my CORSAIR.

 

 

Well sure...at those altitudes. :) 

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Is that an Edsel in Mayberry?

 

I remember all of those reasons for why water/alcohol injection was supposed to work.  But when you do the math and determine how much extra power the cooler air imparts to horsepower production, it seems a little iffy to me.  I believe the real reason was the alcohol in the water mix, that helped combustion happen easier.  Might have helped cool the mixture a little more than normal?

 

At least, back then, there was usually plenty of room under the hood for the toilet paper oil filter, the water injection unit, and some of the other "things" that some claimed to make the engines run better.

 

NTX5467

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Well now, my 1976 Ford Pinto, 6 cyl., had a toilet paper filter.  It also had 185K on the odometer when I passed the car on to owner #2.  So, it may be stated with certainty that the tp filter did hurt/harm the engine.

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