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63 Riviera AC vent doors opening and closing


Turbinator
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  • 4 months later...

Gents, I found AC PAG oil pooling at a fitting on my AC muffler. The pooling of the AC oil would not allow the system to charge with the R12 gas. I flushed the AC muffler of the oil and be damned if the AC oil did not pool again.

So off came the AC muffler and leaky STV. I’m replacing the STV with an STV eliminator “pipe” kit. Once I get the STV ELIMINATOR installed I’ll advise of my cold air temperature.

Turbinator

PS TOO much compressor oil will keep the AC From getting cold. The A6 holds 10.5 Oz com pressure oil.

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4 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Gents, I found AC PAG oil pooling at a fitting on my AC muffler. The pooling of the AC oil would not allow the system to charge with the R12 gas. I flushed the AC muffler of the oil and be damned if the AC oil did not pool again.

So off came the AC muffler and leaky STV. I’m replacing the STV with an STV eliminator “pipe” kit. Once I get the STV ELIMINATOR installed I’ll advise of my cold air temperature.

Turbinator

PS TOO much compressor oil will keep the AC From getting cold. The A6 holds 10.5 Oz com pressure oil.

Morning Bob,

  I remember you telling me this at the ROA meet and I was somewhat suprised. I have never experienced this type of blockage and would think because this is the high side that the pressure would keep the oil from clogging....unless the output fitting coming out of the muffler is orientated to be at the bottom of the muffler and the oil is pooling and blocking the output?

  Also, keep in mind the oil is distributed throughout the system by the refrigerant, so at any one time each component will contain a quantity of oil. This is why there are specific oils for particular refrigerant types. In other words, total system oil capacity is not only contained in the compressor. Off the top of my head I dont remember the ratios at which each component tends to accumulate the oil but if you do a few generic searches I`m sure you`ll find mention of it.

  Good luck!

Tom

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 4/25/2021 at 11:46 AM, 1965rivgs said:

which each component tends to accumulate the oil but if you do a few generic searches I`m sure you`ll find mention of it.

  Good luck!

Tom, Tom Telesco gave me an estimate of how many Oz. Could be filled in each component rather than 

putting 10.5 Oz of Ester oil in the compressor. It’s not too late I can’t drain the oil in the compressor and redistribute the amounts Tom T suggested.

I’ll have cold air sooner than later. My persistence will pay off. Trust me on this one.

Turbinator

Edited by Turbinator (see edit history)
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  • 2 months later...

Gents , here we are almost 2 years since I started this thread. Since then I replaced the heater core, took out the plenum and heater box and fixed the doors so they would open and shut proper. Ester oil was pooling in the hose coming from compressor to AC muffler. Took AC muffler replaced hose. Took POS STV leaking SOB and put on the STV BYPASS KIT.

I had a leak and so was fed up. FINALLY found a shop that had no problems working my AC and R12.

The shop fixed the leak, pulled a vacuum at 30” for 24 hours. Charged the system with Four (4) lbs of R12. System on hot day put 38 F of cold air. Hopefully, it will hold. 38F is the coldest It has ever been.

Turbinator

PS don’t overlook adjust vacuum switches on the switch panel under the hood. #2 vacuum switch must be adjusted correctly or you will not get air through the vents.

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2 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Gents , here we are almost 2 years since I started this thread. Since then I replaced the heater core, took out the plenum and heater box and fixed the doors so they would open and shut proper. Ester oil was pooling in the hose coming from compressor to AC muffler. Took AC muffler replaced hose. Took POS STV leaking SOB and put on the STV BYPASS KIT.

I had a leak and so was fed up. FINALLY found a shop that had no problems working my AC and R12.

The shop fixed the leak, pulled a vacuum at 30” for 24 hours. Charged the system with Four (4) lbs of R12. System on hot day put 38 F of cold air. Hopefully, it will hold. 38F is the coldest It has ever been.

Turbinator

PS don’t overlook adjust vacuum switches on the switch panel under the hood. #2 vacuum switch must be adjusted correctly or you will not get air through the vents.

I am so glad you finally got the system working properly! Congratulations!

 

I have had my '63 A/C blowing a "fog" out the center vent. Yes, it will blow 38 degrees while driving down the road.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Jim Cannon said:
3 hours ago, Turbinator said:

I am so glad you finally got the system working properly! Congratulations!

Jim, something to be said for persistence. Although I’m no AC mechanic I can claim experience with a 63 Riviera AC. Thank you for your support over the years.

Turbinator

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1 hour ago, Zimm63 said:

Being we are pretty local to each other, where/who is this magical shop?  

 

My doors are working fine now, but I am not sure its properly charged.  

 

 

Zimm, Thoroughbred Transmissions in Laurel off Scaggsville Rd. Owner is Stephen Powell. The business is actually run like a real business. Professional demeanor. Reasonable fees ( comparative) for work performed; however, I had taken the project near completion.

They checked my work, fixed the leak and charged the system with 4 lbs of R12. You are better off if you have your own R12 and dry nitrogen. Having your supplies can save you money. The shop will use your supplies.

Turbinator

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Zimm, I experienced the Ester oil pooling in the hose from the compressor to the AC muffler. Tom Telesco discovered that once and I experienced yet again. The AC system would take a charge. Finally, I took off the AC muffler and had a new hose made for the rerouted AC hose. The hose was. made by Colliflower on RT 40 in Rosedale or White Marsh. Cost for the hose $100. it dawned on me other suppliers may have a ready made hose for less cost. I thought the fittings at the ends of the hoses were all gone. Probably a whole supply is available of AC fittings for the 63 on the market.

Now after I did all this Tom Mooney suggested turning the AC muffler hose and position such that gravity work on our behalf. If you are still using the STV and it works then God Bless. If you suspect the STV needs this or that throw the whole thing away and put on either the sTV upgrade or The STV by Pass kit. The by pass kit works for me. The upgrade kit requires you rebuild the STV to be leak proof for the upgrade kit to work. If I had to do it over again I would have found a specialty shop that installs AC systems. The closest shop I know that would do such an install would be a shop in Long Island NY. I'm thinking you are looking at a $5k job for such a replacement.

We could stay home on those hot humid days and do something else then ride in our Rivieras. There are always choices.

Turibnator

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  • 1 month later...

The Doors in the plenum have be realigned and padded. The springs and vacuum actuated valves work as they should. The doors open and close fine.

The GM 1 ton severe duty clutch fan works very well  to keep the AC cool at traffic signals and traffic back up. Prior the 63 zRiviera stock clutch fan did not pull enough air in while the car was stopped to keep the cool air coming. I measured 39F on the right passenger side vent on a hot day.

Tuned right the 63 stock AC is working fine….. for now.

A five season project that taught me some things about mobile AC.

Turbinator

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