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63 Riviera AC vent doors opening and closing


Turbinator
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  • 4 months later...

Gents, I found AC PAG oil pooling at a fitting on my AC muffler. The pooling of the AC oil would not allow the system to charge with the R12 gas. I flushed the AC muffler of the oil and be damned if the AC oil did not pool again.

So off came the AC muffler and leaky STV. I’m replacing the STV with an STV eliminator “pipe” kit. Once I get the STV ELIMINATOR installed I’ll advise of my cold air temperature.

Turbinator

PS TOO much compressor oil will keep the AC From getting cold. The A6 holds 10.5 Oz com pressure oil.

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4 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Gents, I found AC PAG oil pooling at a fitting on my AC muffler. The pooling of the AC oil would not allow the system to charge with the R12 gas. I flushed the AC muffler of the oil and be damned if the AC oil did not pool again.

So off came the AC muffler and leaky STV. I’m replacing the STV with an STV eliminator “pipe” kit. Once I get the STV ELIMINATOR installed I’ll advise of my cold air temperature.

Turbinator

PS TOO much compressor oil will keep the AC From getting cold. The A6 holds 10.5 Oz com pressure oil.

Morning Bob,

  I remember you telling me this at the ROA meet and I was somewhat suprised. I have never experienced this type of blockage and would think because this is the high side that the pressure would keep the oil from clogging....unless the output fitting coming out of the muffler is orientated to be at the bottom of the muffler and the oil is pooling and blocking the output?

  Also, keep in mind the oil is distributed throughout the system by the refrigerant, so at any one time each component will contain a quantity of oil. This is why there are specific oils for particular refrigerant types. In other words, total system oil capacity is not only contained in the compressor. Off the top of my head I dont remember the ratios at which each component tends to accumulate the oil but if you do a few generic searches I`m sure you`ll find mention of it.

  Good luck!

Tom

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 4/25/2021 at 11:46 AM, 1965rivgs said:

which each component tends to accumulate the oil but if you do a few generic searches I`m sure you`ll find mention of it.

  Good luck!

Tom, Tom Telesco gave me an estimate of how many Oz. Could be filled in each component rather than 

putting 10.5 Oz of Ester oil in the compressor. It’s not too late I can’t drain the oil in the compressor and redistribute the amounts Tom T suggested.

I’ll have cold air sooner than later. My persistence will pay off. Trust me on this one.

Turbinator

Edited by Turbinator (see edit history)
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  • 2 months later...

Gents , here we are almost 2 years since I started this thread. Since then I replaced the heater core, took out the plenum and heater box and fixed the doors so they would open and shut proper. Ester oil was pooling in the hose coming from compressor to AC muffler. Took AC muffler replaced hose. Took POS STV leaking SOB and put on the STV BYPASS KIT.

I had a leak and so was fed up. FINALLY found a shop that had no problems working my AC and R12.

The shop fixed the leak, pulled a vacuum at 30” for 24 hours. Charged the system with Four (4) lbs of R12. System on hot day put 38 F of cold air. Hopefully, it will hold. 38F is the coldest It has ever been.

Turbinator

PS don’t overlook adjust vacuum switches on the switch panel under the hood. #2 vacuum switch must be adjusted correctly or you will not get air through the vents.

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2 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Gents , here we are almost 2 years since I started this thread. Since then I replaced the heater core, took out the plenum and heater box and fixed the doors so they would open and shut proper. Ester oil was pooling in the hose coming from compressor to AC muffler. Took AC muffler replaced hose. Took POS STV leaking SOB and put on the STV BYPASS KIT.

I had a leak and so was fed up. FINALLY found a shop that had no problems working my AC and R12.

The shop fixed the leak, pulled a vacuum at 30” for 24 hours. Charged the system with Four (4) lbs of R12. System on hot day put 38 F of cold air. Hopefully, it will hold. 38F is the coldest It has ever been.

Turbinator

PS don’t overlook adjust vacuum switches on the switch panel under the hood. #2 vacuum switch must be adjusted correctly or you will not get air through the vents.

I am so glad you finally got the system working properly! Congratulations!

 

I have had my '63 A/C blowing a "fog" out the center vent. Yes, it will blow 38 degrees while driving down the road.

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Jim Cannon said:
3 hours ago, Turbinator said:

I am so glad you finally got the system working properly! Congratulations!

Jim, something to be said for persistence. Although I’m no AC mechanic I can claim experience with a 63 Riviera AC. Thank you for your support over the years.

Turbinator

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1 hour ago, Zimm63 said:

Being we are pretty local to each other, where/who is this magical shop?  

 

My doors are working fine now, but I am not sure its properly charged.  

 

 

Zimm, Thoroughbred Transmissions in Laurel off Scaggsville Rd. Owner is Stephen Powell. The business is actually run like a real business. Professional demeanor. Reasonable fees ( comparative) for work performed; however, I had taken the project near completion.

They checked my work, fixed the leak and charged the system with 4 lbs of R12. You are better off if you have your own R12 and dry nitrogen. Having your supplies can save you money. The shop will use your supplies.

Turbinator

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Zimm, I experienced the Ester oil pooling in the hose from the compressor to the AC muffler. Tom Telesco discovered that once and I experienced yet again. The AC system would take a charge. Finally, I took off the AC muffler and had a new hose made for the rerouted AC hose. The hose was. made by Colliflower on RT 40 in Rosedale or White Marsh. Cost for the hose $100. it dawned on me other suppliers may have a ready made hose for less cost. I thought the fittings at the ends of the hoses were all gone. Probably a whole supply is available of AC fittings for the 63 on the market.

Now after I did all this Tom Mooney suggested turning the AC muffler hose and position such that gravity work on our behalf. If you are still using the STV and it works then God Bless. If you suspect the STV needs this or that throw the whole thing away and put on either the sTV upgrade or The STV by Pass kit. The by pass kit works for me. The upgrade kit requires you rebuild the STV to be leak proof for the upgrade kit to work. If I had to do it over again I would have found a specialty shop that installs AC systems. The closest shop I know that would do such an install would be a shop in Long Island NY. I'm thinking you are looking at a $5k job for such a replacement.

We could stay home on those hot humid days and do something else then ride in our Rivieras. There are always choices.

Turibnator

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  • 1 month later...

The Doors in the plenum have be realigned and padded. The springs and vacuum actuated valves work as they should. The doors open and close fine.

The GM 1 ton severe duty clutch fan works very well  to keep the AC cool at traffic signals and traffic back up. Prior the 63 zRiviera stock clutch fan did not pull enough air in while the car was stopped to keep the cool air coming. I measured 39F on the right passenger side vent on a hot day.

Tuned right the 63 stock AC is working fine….. for now.

A five season project that taught me some things about mobile AC.

Turbinator

bought R12 recycler! I’m on fire I can’t be stopped🤡

DD669D68-054C-4811-B7CD-448D9134CEBA.jpeg

Edited by Turbinator (see edit history)
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  • 2 months later...

After 5 seasons of working to learn how to fix the stock AC in 63 Riviera the following were important in my car.

1. STV was eliminated with STV by pass kit. Works good.

2. AC muffler had oil pooling so I decided to remove the AC muffler. I cannot tell any difference.

3. Single 2 port vacuum actuator works good in the absence of 3&4 vacuum actuators.

4. Charge AC with 4 lbs or a little more R12. I stayed with R12.

5. Check doors and plenum connections. Doors were realigned and new rubber put around the doors.

6. Make sure switches on AC/Heater control panel under the hood are adjusted. Important 

7. install new color coded vacuum hoses for AC system.

8. End of Nov. 2021 AC is still cold.

Turbinator

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  • 5 months later...

Gents, early Spring 2022 and I checked the AC operation. Happy to report the rascal blew cold air. It was cold outside that is probably why the air was cold. No kidding the AC worked for second year in a row. The work arounds with the dual port single vacuum actuator in the #3 position at the bottom of the heater box works. Eliminating the pesky STV was really helpful. Taking off the AC muffler helped the operation as well. Although, repositioning the AC muffler so the AC oil would not pool up at the AC muffler could have been a solution. All in all the challenge was fun and I learned something about the refrigeration cycle. Kind of nice to have the gas gauge working the way it should, the AC working ( so far), the little light for the glove box has been replaced. Now if I can be willing to be willing to get the patience to get the Glove box door to close evenly life would be so grand.

Turbinator

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2 hours ago, tkeiser1 said:

I'll trade you my well-closing glove box for a non-leaking ac.

Such a deal. Get a “ sniffer” to find the leak, soapy water, dye that goes in with a can of R12, then pull a vacuum after you fixed the leak. Your hoses could be leaking which is not really bad news. You can get the hoses

rebuilt. Of course you’ll need a vacuum pump, manifold, bottle of dry nitrogen helps a lot, your R12…and a 1-800 dial a prayer number. I envy your glove box. I have a found a solution to close the glove box and the solution is completely invisible. However, the solution is an unacceptable method, but I-had to get er’ done.

Turbinator

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  • 2 months later...
On 9/14/2021 at 5:48 AM, Turbinator said:

The Doors in the plenum have be realigned and padded. The springs and vacuum actuated valves work as they should. The doors open and close fine.

The GM 1 ton severe duty clutch fan works very well  to keep the AC cool at traffic signals and traffic back up. Prior the 63 zRiviera stock clutch fan did not pull enough air in while the car was stopped to keep the cool air coming. I measured 39F on the right passenger side vent on a hot day.

Tuned right the 63 stock AC is working fine….. for now.

A five season project that taught me some things about mobile AC.

Turbinator

bought R12 recycler! I’m on fire I can’t be stopped🤡

DD669D68-054C-4811-B7CD-448D9134CEBA.jpeg

Bob

 

I bought a similar machine a couple years ago.  Snap On ACT 3000 and the accompanying ACT 2500 charging system.  They were built by White Industries and badged for Snap On.   Not sure they will be of any use, as I am unable to find parts.  I spoke to Snap On yesterday, and they are unable to even provide a filter/dryer for the recovery machine.    I have not tried to run either machine yet.  

 

The recovery machine did come with a tank partially filled with something.  I was able to get that properly disposed of and the tank refurbished by AllCool in Frederick at a reasonable cost.  

 

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47 minutes ago, Zimm63 said:

The recovery machine did come with a tank partially filled with something.  I was able to get that properly disposed of and the tank refurbished by AllCool in Frederick at a reasonable cost. 

Zimm, thank you for heads up. I can’t imagine the operation being too far above my skill level. I did not get any instruction 📖  with my machine. I bought the rig and put it away. I’m surprised I have not needed it yet.

 

I will say the AC in the Riv is a right nice thing to have in the Maryland summer. A bit harder on gas mileage but ez to live with for as much as I use the car.

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38 minutes ago, Turbinator said:

Zimm, thank you for heads up. I can’t imagine the operation being too far above my skill level. I did not get any instruction 📖  with my machine. I bought the rig and put it away. I’m surprised I have not needed it yet.

 

I will say the AC in the Riv is a right nice thing to have in the Maryland summer. A bit harder on gas mileage but ez to live with for as much as I use the car.

I like my AC too, but its not cooling as well as yours.  Wasn't there a shop in Salisbury you mentioned that still services R12? 

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14 hours ago, Zimm63 said:

I like my AC too, but its not cooling as well as yours.  Wasn't there a shop in Salisbury you mentioned that still services R12? 

Thoroughbred Transmission in Laurel/ Scaggsville. Steve Powell owns the shop and works in the garage alongside his men. Steve is easily accessible by email. The service writer is truly knowledgeable about automotive electric.

Steve owns a couple of 60’s GM cars. The shop takes in one collector car at a time. The rest of the business is day to day modern car repair.

Without hesitation I take all my cars and truck to him for repairs I can’t figure out. He is shop is not cheap nor his work. The invoice is a written with description of what work was performed next to the specific charge.

i would not say his fees are exorbitant, but in my range of acceptable fees for work. The value in his fees for work is he gets the repair right.

Thoroughbred Transmission has a good website. I believe the shop to be the best Ive ever had experience.

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  • 2 weeks later...
17 hours ago, Turbinator said:

Good work isn’t cheap and 

cheap work isn’t good.

The sad thing is would be professional repair techs pass off shoddy work at high prices. No one puts up with being swindled.

Turbinator

They wouldn’t last long.  Or, as my father used to say, it takes twice as long to do it over than it takes to do it right the first time.  Redos cut into profits quickly.

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