Beemon

Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

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2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

Am I understanding this right?  The pickup was not attached to the oil pump? 

 

That is correct. The screws were buried in sludge in the picture above and no gasket, so I'm assuming it went through the engine.. I was still getting oil pressure so the pump must be deep enough in the sump. 

 

On the plus side I'm not seeing oil drips on the ground anymore. That pan gasket was a mess, I think that's where I was losing oil going up and down the mountain passes. 

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42 minutes ago, Beemon said:

That is correct.

 

Oh man!!!  That is amazing!  I never measured it but I am surprised the oil rides that high!  Considering some of the steep mountains in your area that is amazing that you never lost the oil pump prime.  That 322 is a beautiful thing!

Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)

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I don't think it ever has but I wouldn't be surprised if it did. My old 322 was ruining hard before I tore it down also. I guess you can't kill a Nailhead! 

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Tonight's Programs: Pegged Temp Gauge and Close Encounters of the Deer Kind

 

Boy I tell you, driving 65-70 with high beams on and the critter darts out in front of you.. I was puckered pretty good. The hills between Vantage and Cle Elum were not kind, either. The temp gauge was almost pegged by the time I crested the high altitude desert. I recall this happening when I came out at the beginning of Fall, too. I think my next project will be cleaning water jackets.. Overall it was a smooth ride back over. A little shimmy in the front end,  I wish I had time to do the alignment. Maybe I can talk a local into doing just tie rods? Might be too much for their computers to handle, though.

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Unless you have upgraded your headlights, then 55 mph is the max speed before you over drive your lights.

Most of the heat is generated in the upper engine block and cylinder heads, so consider cleaning the jackets last.  Those radiators were marginal even when clean.

Also be aware that the those temp gauges are pegged hot at only 200*F..install a direct reading gauge with numbers.  A 13# cap as used on the AC cars will raise the boilover point to around 245*F.  On mine when the cylinder head temp is over 220, it starts pinging, so increase the octane of the gas if needed.

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Thanks Willy!

 

 For headlights I run these DOT certified H4 conversions. They seem to work pretty well and the cut pattern is great. A lot better focus than the yellow seal beams. 

 

My radiator is 3 core instead of two but I was using a 7lb cap. I just checked tonight and I lost about a gallon of coolant. I filled back up and will be watching reservoir level. No coolant in the oil and no puddles under the car so head gaskets I think are fine. I have a 14lb cap but was afraid of the copper burst pressure limit - seems to be non issue so I may get someone to mail me the 14lb cap. 

 

Speaking of fluids, I was a quart low in both the engine and transmission. Transmission I've been lax on, but I neglected to check it at my oil change interval. Oil is much better than before. 300 miles I would go through 2.5 quarts. Now that I'm down to 1, I feel better. Sealing the oil pan seems to have done some good in this regard. 

 

I'm holding out because I love the car, but my luck with this thing has been terrible. People tell me I drive it too much, but that has not meaning as they were contemporary at one point. I'm hoping very soon to be financially stable to afford to restore the engine a second time... thats not something anyone should have to say unless its been some years and mileage...

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Maybe you can ask the guys at the local LS at S Grand and Bishop Blvd to install your tie rod ends.  They helped me out 25 years ago with my 49 Super.  I supplied the parts and they put them on. Straight labor.

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23 hours ago, BuickBob49 said:

Maybe you can ask the guys at the local LS at S Grand and Bishop Blvd to install your tie rod ends.  They helped me out 25 years ago with my 49 Super.  I supplied the parts and they put them on. Straight labor.

 

The parts are on the car already new, the issue is that no one will align them for me so the front end has been a little off for over a year now. I'll talk to those boys tomorrow and see if they can help me out. Thanks for the tip!

 

I found out today my choke is sticking, so I was most likely running rich the entire time coming back to school. I'm not sure what happened as that has never happened up until this point, but I found the choke dog leg rubbing against the side of the choke spring cover and binding. Took my trusty file and ran down that edge and it's smooth as silk now, but it explains the hard starting issues I was having before I left, too. Running rich going up and over hills at 70-75 MPH couldn't have been good. Checked the fluids today, nothing out of the ordinary so no leaks in the coolant system. Oil seems to be holding pretty good for now, will continue to monitor.

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Tax returns are looking good this year! I'm out of here on May 6th, then off the Michigan right after and most likely won't be back home until May 14th. Just checked the weather forecast on the west side of the mountains... 80% humidity. Without an inside booth to prep the car, looks like its straight to sanding whats on there and then off to the Maaco paint booth. They've quoted me $1200 for paint and prep, which is well within this year's budget. Color won't be original, but as long as its dark blue on white, I'll be happy for the time being. I'm so excited, I can't wait for people to stop telling me they like the "patina"! I mean, I'm all for clean hotrods... the ratrod and patina look is just too trashy for my tastes, though.

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53 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Tax returns are looking good this year! I'm out of here on May 6th, then off the Michigan right after and most likely won't be back home until May 14th. Just checked the weather forecast on the west side of the mountains... 80% humidity. Without an inside booth to prep the car, looks like its straight to sanding whats on there and then off to the Maaco paint booth. They've quoted me $1200 for paint and prep, which is well within this year's budget. Color won't be original, but as long as its dark blue on white, I'll be happy for the time being. I'm so excited, I can't wait for people to stop telling me they like the "patina"! I mean, I'm all for clean hotrods... the ratrod and patina look is just too trashy for my tastes, though.

Jeez, did't realize you were so high falutin!   JK  :-)  When you say "prep"  just taping off?

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Lol! I grew up in the ghetto, so I just have distaste for trashy things. :P

 

Prep as in removing trim, bumpers and glass. I'm pretty sure they said they were going to fill the holes with fiberglass or other hole repair magic and then sand down the surface rust and feather the existing paint into flat spots with filler paint before spraying. Very bare minimum. I just need to preserve the car for a few years until I get a career job. 

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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4 minutes ago, Beemon said:

 

Prep as in removing trim, bumpers and glass. I'm pretty sure they said they were going to fill the holes with fiberglass or other hole repair magic and then sand down the surface rust and feather the excusing paint into flat spots with filler paint before spraying. Very bare minimum. I just need to preserve the car for a few years until I get a career job. 

WOW!  I would've though tape, not trim removal.  That's a good price.

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Oh, I'm saving myself a lot by removing those things myself, though I am tempted to leave the glass and just pull the stainless

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1 minute ago, Beemon said:

Oh, I'm saving myself a lot by removing those things myself, though I am tempted to leave the glass and just pull the stainless

AHHHHH   i was confused!  you said $1200 paint and prep....  then I asked what was "prep".  I thought it seemed odd that it would only be $1200 with all the trim removal.

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1 minute ago, wndsofchng06 said:

AHHHHH   i was confused!  you said $1200 paint and prep....  then I asked what was "prep".  I thought it seemed odd that it would only be $1200 with all the trim removal.

 

Oh, oops! Haha, no there's my personal prep and then their prep. I charge myself $20/hr to remove my own bumpers, I don't want to pay someone else to play with it lol

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2 minutes ago, Beemon said:

 

 I charge myself $20/hr to remove my own bumpers,

Hell that's what the neighbor's kids charge to pick up sticks and pine cones in the yard!

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Not really much to do with the Buick, although I am still maintaining good solid vacuum at 15" Hg!

 

Satin black on raw aluminum is the look the car is going for this year. We finally got the intake manifold sealed up and capable of holding vacuum! For those that do not know, 3D printing is extremely porous and difficult to work with, especially if you use a 20% in-fill between surface layers. We had to use a lot of 3-1 epoxy resin and hardener to get the whole thing air tight.

 

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Data colllection should start as early as this weekend, if the suspension guys get their head out of their behind and actually finish the uprights. Next week is Finals, then off to Michigan on the 6th. If all goes well and the car performs phenomenally (and confirms my assumptions and verifies design), I thinking about going big and doing an intake for the Buick.

 

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On 4/13/2018 at 3:46 PM, Beemon said:

though I am tempted to leave the glass

 

if this is just a make do paint job 'til you have a career job, definitely leave the glass. how terrible if'n one of the big pieces got broke during the process.  It happens

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 The car is finished but unfortunately it didnt run last I hear. I didnt get a chance to go to Michigan because I got a last minute internship opportunity that I felt was more important. I hope the boys get the car sorted out! 

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On 5/8/2018 at 11:19 AM, 2carb40 said:

Hey Ben

Did U get the stuff I sent?

 

Yes, I did! 

 

I'm finally starting to settle in back home. The ride back was a bit hectic, the car nearly overheated coming back home going over Vantage towards Elk Heights. I'm a bit worried now. My last engine, with all its problems, did not overheat. The only thing different between the two engines, cooling wise, is the water pump and block. Aside from that, the passenger side exhaust manifold had a free rotating butterfly, but the thermostatic spring fell off at some point and it is not holding it open. I think this is also a contribution to the problem and is forcing hot exhaust gasses through the intake manifold and cylinder head, and back through to the driver side manifold, despite some gasses leaving the passenger side tail pipe - the exhaust flow out the tailpipe is very weak compared to the driver side. The coolant is still green, which leads me to believe there isn't much sediment in the block.

 

Another difference that can play a part here is ignition timing. This engine is the stock 9.5:1 compression. My old block was rebuilt with 55 pistons and thick head gaskets, so my compression wasn't where it should be. On this engine, with the WCFB carburetor, it pings at part throttle going uphill. I have gone from 7* timing to 5* timing and now to 2* timing with pinging still noticeable going up the hills around the home. The engine is also getting hotter than normal around the hills and crests past N whereas my old engine had never done this. I was also informed that the 322 balancers are bulletproof and do not slip, but that sounds like junk. 

 

So I've got a few things to do here. First, I'm going to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold with my old one that has the butterfly removed, and see if that alleviates the issue. If the problem persists, I'm going to have the block and radiator professionally flushed to see if there is some type of sediment or blockage that is hindering the flow. The water pump is not leaking from the weep hole so I am going to assume it is good for now. I am also going to swap back to a 4GC and see if the part throttle ping is the WCFB or both carbs. The vacuum advance is the same one I've had and it's verified to be correct with a timing light. I'm also going to pull the front balancer pulley off and hold up my old balancer to check to see if it's out of sync with the woodruff key.

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On 5/9/2018 at 5:41 PM, Beemon said:

 it pings at part throttle going uphill.

Does it ping at WOT?  If so, then you need more octane and less timing; if not, then disconnect the vacuum advance as a temporary test to check the part throttle pinging (probably no pings)

What distributor does it have?  Source of vacuum advance?

Usually if pinging at part throttle and not WOT, means there is too much vacuum advance present during part throttle caused by the integral spring being weaker than needed.

I had the problem when I found a vacuum advance that "fit" but had a weaker than stock spring and a longer pull.

If using the later 57 and up distributor there are adjustable vacuum advances available.

Also study and learn how to set timing with a vacuum gauge.:D

 

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No ping at WOT, pinging goes away when the secondaries kick in going up hill. 

 

Distributor is stock 56 with a vacuum advance from the big K. Source of vacuum advance is stock location at the throttle plate of the WCFB. I do have a serviceable, rebuilt 65 distributor that I had recurved and was using a bit ago as a test. I might go throw it back on and see how it performs, after I get back from painting of course. 

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Car is about as stripped as its gonna get. I Still have the window trim to figure out but I won't be upset if the car goes into the both with the trim still on. Unfortunately no body work, no time and the weather has been bipolar. The work Maaco does will be warranted, however. I've been reading reviews and these guys do great work at the Maaco price. Don't worry, im not expecting a restoration paint job - this is purely a preservation oem quality paint job. Two tone, two stage base and clear. 

 

Three foreman came out today and gave his stamp of approval. We went to go see grandma today, too, and told her all about the car. She didn't have much to say. 

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