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Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick


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2 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

 

Am I understanding this right?  The pickup was not attached to the oil pump? 

 

That is correct. The screws were buried in sludge in the picture above and no gasket, so I'm assuming it went through the engine.. I was still getting oil pressure so the pump must be deep enough in the sump. 

 

On the plus side I'm not seeing oil drips on the ground anymore. That pan gasket was a mess, I think that's where I was losing oil going up and down the mountain passes. 

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42 minutes ago, Beemon said:

That is correct.

 

Oh man!!!  That is amazing!  I never measured it but I am surprised the oil rides that high!  Considering some of the steep mountains in your area that is amazing that you never lost the oil pump prime.  That 322 is a beautiful thing!

Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)
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I don't think it ever has but I wouldn't be surprised if it did. My old 322 was ruining hard before I tore it down also. I guess you can't kill a Nailhead! 

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Tonight's Programs: Pegged Temp Gauge and Close Encounters of the Deer Kind

 

Boy I tell you, driving 65-70 with high beams on and the critter darts out in front of you.. I was puckered pretty good. The hills between Vantage and Cle Elum were not kind, either. The temp gauge was almost pegged by the time I crested the high altitude desert. I recall this happening when I came out at the beginning of Fall, too. I think my next project will be cleaning water jackets.. Overall it was a smooth ride back over. A little shimmy in the front end,  I wish I had time to do the alignment. Maybe I can talk a local into doing just tie rods? Might be too much for their computers to handle, though.

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Unless you have upgraded your headlights, then 55 mph is the max speed before you over drive your lights.

Most of the heat is generated in the upper engine block and cylinder heads, so consider cleaning the jackets last.  Those radiators were marginal even when clean.

Also be aware that the those temp gauges are pegged hot at only 200*F..install a direct reading gauge with numbers.  A 13# cap as used on the AC cars will raise the boilover point to around 245*F.  On mine when the cylinder head temp is over 220, it starts pinging, so increase the octane of the gas if needed.

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Thanks Willy!

 

 For headlights I run these DOT certified H4 conversions. They seem to work pretty well and the cut pattern is great. A lot better focus than the yellow seal beams. 

 

My radiator is 3 core instead of two but I was using a 7lb cap. I just checked tonight and I lost about a gallon of coolant. I filled back up and will be watching reservoir level. No coolant in the oil and no puddles under the car so head gaskets I think are fine. I have a 14lb cap but was afraid of the copper burst pressure limit - seems to be non issue so I may get someone to mail me the 14lb cap. 

 

Speaking of fluids, I was a quart low in both the engine and transmission. Transmission I've been lax on, but I neglected to check it at my oil change interval. Oil is much better than before. 300 miles I would go through 2.5 quarts. Now that I'm down to 1, I feel better. Sealing the oil pan seems to have done some good in this regard. 

 

I'm holding out because I love the car, but my luck with this thing has been terrible. People tell me I drive it too much, but that has not meaning as they were contemporary at one point. I'm hoping very soon to be financially stable to afford to restore the engine a second time... thats not something anyone should have to say unless its been some years and mileage...

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Maybe you can ask the guys at the local LS at S Grand and Bishop Blvd to install your tie rod ends.  They helped me out 25 years ago with my 49 Super.  I supplied the parts and they put them on. Straight labor.

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23 hours ago, BuickBob49 said:

Maybe you can ask the guys at the local LS at S Grand and Bishop Blvd to install your tie rod ends.  They helped me out 25 years ago with my 49 Super.  I supplied the parts and they put them on. Straight labor.

 

The parts are on the car already new, the issue is that no one will align them for me so the front end has been a little off for over a year now. I'll talk to those boys tomorrow and see if they can help me out. Thanks for the tip!

 

I found out today my choke is sticking, so I was most likely running rich the entire time coming back to school. I'm not sure what happened as that has never happened up until this point, but I found the choke dog leg rubbing against the side of the choke spring cover and binding. Took my trusty file and ran down that edge and it's smooth as silk now, but it explains the hard starting issues I was having before I left, too. Running rich going up and over hills at 70-75 MPH couldn't have been good. Checked the fluids today, nothing out of the ordinary so no leaks in the coolant system. Oil seems to be holding pretty good for now, will continue to monitor.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Tax returns are looking good this year! I'm out of here on May 6th, then off the Michigan right after and most likely won't be back home until May 14th. Just checked the weather forecast on the west side of the mountains... 80% humidity. Without an inside booth to prep the car, looks like its straight to sanding whats on there and then off to the Maaco paint booth. They've quoted me $1200 for paint and prep, which is well within this year's budget. Color won't be original, but as long as its dark blue on white, I'll be happy for the time being. I'm so excited, I can't wait for people to stop telling me they like the "patina"! I mean, I'm all for clean hotrods... the ratrod and patina look is just too trashy for my tastes, though.

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53 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Tax returns are looking good this year! I'm out of here on May 6th, then off the Michigan right after and most likely won't be back home until May 14th. Just checked the weather forecast on the west side of the mountains... 80% humidity. Without an inside booth to prep the car, looks like its straight to sanding whats on there and then off to the Maaco paint booth. They've quoted me $1200 for paint and prep, which is well within this year's budget. Color won't be original, but as long as its dark blue on white, I'll be happy for the time being. I'm so excited, I can't wait for people to stop telling me they like the "patina"! I mean, I'm all for clean hotrods... the ratrod and patina look is just too trashy for my tastes, though.

Jeez, did't realize you were so high falutin!   JK  :-)  When you say "prep"  just taping off?

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Lol! I grew up in the ghetto, so I just have distaste for trashy things. :P

 

Prep as in removing trim, bumpers and glass. I'm pretty sure they said they were going to fill the holes with fiberglass or other hole repair magic and then sand down the surface rust and feather the existing paint into flat spots with filler paint before spraying. Very bare minimum. I just need to preserve the car for a few years until I get a career job. 

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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4 minutes ago, Beemon said:

 

Prep as in removing trim, bumpers and glass. I'm pretty sure they said they were going to fill the holes with fiberglass or other hole repair magic and then sand down the surface rust and feather the excusing paint into flat spots with filler paint before spraying. Very bare minimum. I just need to preserve the car for a few years until I get a career job. 

WOW!  I would've though tape, not trim removal.  That's a good price.

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1 minute ago, Beemon said:

Oh, I'm saving myself a lot by removing those things myself, though I am tempted to leave the glass and just pull the stainless

AHHHHH   i was confused!  you said $1200 paint and prep....  then I asked what was "prep".  I thought it seemed odd that it would only be $1200 with all the trim removal.

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1 minute ago, wndsofchng06 said:

AHHHHH   i was confused!  you said $1200 paint and prep....  then I asked what was "prep".  I thought it seemed odd that it would only be $1200 with all the trim removal.

 

Oh, oops! Haha, no there's my personal prep and then their prep. I charge myself $20/hr to remove my own bumpers, I don't want to pay someone else to play with it lol

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not really much to do with the Buick, although I am still maintaining good solid vacuum at 15" Hg!

 

Satin black on raw aluminum is the look the car is going for this year. We finally got the intake manifold sealed up and capable of holding vacuum! For those that do not know, 3D printing is extremely porous and difficult to work with, especially if you use a 20% in-fill between surface layers. We had to use a lot of 3-1 epoxy resin and hardener to get the whole thing air tight.

 

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Data colllection should start as early as this weekend, if the suspension guys get their head out of their behind and actually finish the uprights. Next week is Finals, then off to Michigan on the 6th. If all goes well and the car performs phenomenally (and confirms my assumptions and verifies design), I thinking about going big and doing an intake for the Buick.

 

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On 4/13/2018 at 3:46 PM, Beemon said:

though I am tempted to leave the glass

 

if this is just a make do paint job 'til you have a career job, definitely leave the glass. how terrible if'n one of the big pieces got broke during the process.  It happens

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  • 2 weeks later...

 The car is finished but unfortunately it didnt run last I hear. I didnt get a chance to go to Michigan because I got a last minute internship opportunity that I felt was more important. I hope the boys get the car sorted out! 

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On 5/8/2018 at 11:19 AM, 2carb40 said:

Hey Ben

Did U get the stuff I sent?

 

Yes, I did! 

 

I'm finally starting to settle in back home. The ride back was a bit hectic, the car nearly overheated coming back home going over Vantage towards Elk Heights. I'm a bit worried now. My last engine, with all its problems, did not overheat. The only thing different between the two engines, cooling wise, is the water pump and block. Aside from that, the passenger side exhaust manifold had a free rotating butterfly, but the thermostatic spring fell off at some point and it is not holding it open. I think this is also a contribution to the problem and is forcing hot exhaust gasses through the intake manifold and cylinder head, and back through to the driver side manifold, despite some gasses leaving the passenger side tail pipe - the exhaust flow out the tailpipe is very weak compared to the driver side. The coolant is still green, which leads me to believe there isn't much sediment in the block.

 

Another difference that can play a part here is ignition timing. This engine is the stock 9.5:1 compression. My old block was rebuilt with 55 pistons and thick head gaskets, so my compression wasn't where it should be. On this engine, with the WCFB carburetor, it pings at part throttle going uphill. I have gone from 7* timing to 5* timing and now to 2* timing with pinging still noticeable going up the hills around the home. The engine is also getting hotter than normal around the hills and crests past N whereas my old engine had never done this. I was also informed that the 322 balancers are bulletproof and do not slip, but that sounds like junk. 

 

So I've got a few things to do here. First, I'm going to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold with my old one that has the butterfly removed, and see if that alleviates the issue. If the problem persists, I'm going to have the block and radiator professionally flushed to see if there is some type of sediment or blockage that is hindering the flow. The water pump is not leaking from the weep hole so I am going to assume it is good for now. I am also going to swap back to a 4GC and see if the part throttle ping is the WCFB or both carbs. The vacuum advance is the same one I've had and it's verified to be correct with a timing light. I'm also going to pull the front balancer pulley off and hold up my old balancer to check to see if it's out of sync with the woodruff key.

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On 5/9/2018 at 5:41 PM, Beemon said:

 it pings at part throttle going uphill.

Does it ping at WOT?  If so, then you need more octane and less timing; if not, then disconnect the vacuum advance as a temporary test to check the part throttle pinging (probably no pings)

What distributor does it have?  Source of vacuum advance?

Usually if pinging at part throttle and not WOT, means there is too much vacuum advance present during part throttle caused by the integral spring being weaker than needed.

I had the problem when I found a vacuum advance that "fit" but had a weaker than stock spring and a longer pull.

If using the later 57 and up distributor there are adjustable vacuum advances available.

Also study and learn how to set timing with a vacuum gauge.:D

 

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No ping at WOT, pinging goes away when the secondaries kick in going up hill. 

 

Distributor is stock 56 with a vacuum advance from the big K. Source of vacuum advance is stock location at the throttle plate of the WCFB. I do have a serviceable, rebuilt 65 distributor that I had recurved and was using a bit ago as a test. I might go throw it back on and see how it performs, after I get back from painting of course. 

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Car is about as stripped as its gonna get. I Still have the window trim to figure out but I won't be upset if the car goes into the both with the trim still on. Unfortunately no body work, no time and the weather has been bipolar. The work Maaco does will be warranted, however. I've been reading reviews and these guys do great work at the Maaco price. Don't worry, im not expecting a restoration paint job - this is purely a preservation oem quality paint job. Two tone, two stage base and clear. 

 

Three foreman came out today and gave his stamp of approval. We went to go see grandma today, too, and told her all about the car. She didn't have much to say. 

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Paint is going to make her look great and give you another burst of pride at any car event. 

Anxiously awaiting the results. :)

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Thanks for the kind words, Doug. I think it will not only be good for me, but my grandpa as well who is equally excited. Although a 53 Roadmaster was his first car, the 56 was the first car he bought with my late grandmother and the car they started their family with. Coincidentally it will be the car I start my family with, too! 

 

Plus I can't wait for the patina comments to go away.  :P

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Okay, I got the front windshield trim off. The center piece for me was the keystone, so I had to get a thin flat head screw driver (think hobby set or those really really small electronics screwdriver kits) and pry up at the top of the center piece. Once it was off the top, then you just push down to snap it off. The passenger side trim came off with zero issue, the driver side needed a bit of persuasion with a rubber mallot on the end until it was about a half way off.

 

Getting the wiper transmission trim off was pretty difficult because on the bottom of the cover it has this embossed ridge that runs right into the stainless grill set screw. It required some finnessing but I got both sides off without breaking anything. 

 

On to the back window! 

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You probably have been told this before but a reminder to take lots of pictures or bag small parts with hand diagrams and notes to aide the replacing of things. 

It's amazing how quickly you can forget just how this went on or which order that needs to go on... but wait, you're young and I'm old (forgets easier).:lol:

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Jeez, I don't think I want to remember! Haha

 

GM white (it's an off-white cream color that matched the white) and metallic electric blue (color swatch matched the good blue spots). They're painting the door jams, hood jams, and trunk jams, on top of fixing the holes. Base and clear coat with a 5-year warranty for paint and work that is going to be done. I think that should cover me until I can afford to get the car to a restoration shop! And, warranties are always a good thing to have, too. And, for the price I paid, the guy said he would paint the interior window and door trim the same color as the exterior blue, so everything is going to match.

 

Unfortunately, not pictured, and some bad news to me - there was a huge hole on the rear belt line on the passenger side. I guess this makes sense, the rear of the car was exposed to the elements in my grandfather's carport, and the passenger side especially since it was open on the side - the driver side was shielded by the house. It was about the thickness of the beltline trim around the window and measured about 2 inches long. They said they could fix it, so we'll see, but it rusted through two layers of spot welded sheet metal. The rest of the rear window was in pretty poor shape. Out of the 8 or so retaining clips on the back window trim, I only got two of them back. My father has a TIG machine and he was a Boeing welder for years before working for General Dynamics. We're going to make some replacement clips out of stainless. In fact, I will not be re-using any of the hardware that I pulled off this car. All non-critical fasteners will be stainless steel. This includes the window trim screws, nuts, and bolts. Stuff like the door latch, striker, and hardware that holds up the window regulators will still be steel, but I'm hoping to find some resistive zinc plated replacement stuff for these. Hopefully, it will save me some headache when I do this all again 30 years from now or something. 

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Same blue and white? What’s that on the roof? Are you taping it up or ? 

I bet grandma will have more to say whe you go back after it’s painted. How old is gramma? 

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I tried to match the colors as best I could.  It should look pretty close to the same if the paint chips are accurate. The tarp on top is for the lack of windows.  :P

 

I'm sure she's happy somewhere. I hope to bring the car by the gravesite when its put back together. Maybe I can get her to speak with the big man about keeping the temps below 80.

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4 minutes ago, billbuickgs said:

My first Buick that I drove to work was a 1956 Special 2 dr sedan . ( 1961 )

It had the stock 322 with added four barrel and 56 dual exhaust manifolds  and switch pitch DYNAFLOW "

The story behind the one  wire wheel is funny ! I work at an ESSO station at nights and Saturday .

A guy pulls in the station in a 58 white LIMITED CONV .

I only had three wire wheels at the time . HE said " WANT TO SELL THOSE WHEELS ?"

I said " NO , I'm looking for another one ".

He opened his trunk and said " I buy your three or you buy my wheel !"

That wheel cost me a full weeks part time pay $ 30.00  but I had my 4th wire !

Bill

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Sorry , I wanted to post this in the Buick picture forum

Bill

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18 hours ago, billbuickgs said:

Sorry , I wanted to post this in the Buick picture forum

Bill

 Bill I moved the post over to the I Just Love the Picture Of this Buick thread for you.

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I went to go see dad this last weekend. He just bought a new 12 foot boat so he's been bass fishing non stop. To be fair he hasn't owned a boat in some time. Regardless, after we were finished we made some stainless trim retainers from .033 sheet metal and #10-24 screws, same as original. I did the cutting and dimensioning and he did the TIG welding. I only got two of the 11 original clips back, so now I'm set for when the car comes out of the booth.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Today was the 3 year anniversary of getting the  first engine fired and the car rolling under its own power. Not much to say other than how disappointed I am with "experts" in the hobby and how if I knew what I do now back then, I probably wouldn't have been screwed as bad as I was by literally everyone I paid money to to have something rebuilt. This hobby is very love/hate and the only reason I haven't given up is because of the community here. I never get to go to shows and I'm most likely going to miss the all Buick open show this next weekend, but hopefully that will all change next year. I hope to meet all you wonderful people some day so I can give thanks in person. 

 

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Got some big boy toys today. The rest comes in tomorrow, hopefully, from CARS.

 

The Buick is still in the paint shop, but I can at least reline the vent window  and rear window in the mean time. 

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