Beemon

Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

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Don't glue your antenna cable.  If it is long enough, use the good long end and press it into the antenna light a lighter to melt it into place....

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

57 minutes ago, Fr. Buick said:

Don't glue your antenna cable.  If it is long enough, use the good long end and press it into the antenna light a lighter to melt it into place....

Can you expand on this post Fr Buick?  What are you melting here?  

 

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The nylon mast cord, which is pinch-held into a socket at the end of the inner mast. Don't try repairing the cord with glue, it won't hold.  If the cord is long enough (these things go up about five feet, which you never use!) remove the broken shorter end with a lighter under the socket at the end of the mast, melting it enough to pull it out.  The longer end can be reinstalled in the same way.  Worked for me!  If you need a new cord, look up Tucson Packard.  If you can get somebody, they make new nylon cords and can re-chrome your mast.

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I measured the diameter of the nylon cord on my GP and found a match with weed eater string on Amazon for under 10 bucks - worked perfectly.  I was able to crimp mine in p;ace at the base of the antenna.  Now I have about 100' of extra...  ;)

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Good to know!

I had glued it before and it worked flawlessly until it encounter the Incredible Hulk at this restoration shop. It is holding now, so I am not too concerned with it. I also fine tuned my antenna to grab when going up and down but also slip when bottomed out. I don't know if your model antennas have a tensioning screw on the side of the motor, but mine does and its a very quick procedure on the bench. 

 

I had a very eventful break.  I got to go to my junkyard of choice and made off with some clean hood bolts, some misc sheet metal screws and a rusty, correct starter relay for about $40. The starter relay was my favorite find because I had to go from car to car looking for one that would let all four screws unscrew. The inside was sealed perfectly from the PNW weathering and all I had to do was clean the arms to bare metal. Some day I'll paint the cover and make it look nice, but I eliminated that chonky high beam relay and now everything is wired comfortably. All I need now is an original horn relay. I ran out of time because I brought my wife and we had to leave due to family issues on her side. I also re-attached the hood ground strap, since my original clip on ground thing broke a long time ago. it seems to do a better job at shielding RFI with the strap than without, as expected. 

 

My hood adjustment bumpers cannot be adjusted properly because one of the clips was installed upside down, so I cannot screw it out any further. To fix, I will need to disassemble the entire front end because its stuck behind the grill. Which is of course, fine, because if you see in the second to last picture, they forgot some things. HMMM. Better to be safe than sorry, I guess my next task will be to replace every single incorrect fastener (like the standard head bolts on the exterior lock washers instead of the flange head bolts) and washer with correct, or suitable replacements. Part of me grabbing those old rusty sheet metal screws is to find a replacement the right size at the hardware store. Unfortunately they will all be flange head sheet metal screws since you can't buy standard sheet metal screws for cheap, at least not at my hardware store.

 

Lastly, one other thing I made off with at the junkyard... stainless Anco wipers! I found a nice set of Trico wiper blades in stainless, too, but as far as I know you can only buy the reproduction Anco wipers over the counter. Maybe you can get Trico inserts off the web? If so, I will go back for them but man what a difference! Over the counter they are plain. I think the Stainless wipers really complete the windshield area of the car.

 

And thus.. back to school for two more weeks. I passed my Fundamentals license exam, so now all I need to do is graduate and I'm on my way to becoming someone who thinks they know more about machining than a machinist. 

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Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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Best of luck on your licensing exams! Having your Professional Engineer license, your PE, will open doors for you in your career.  I work for a public agency with many civil engineers and some mechanical engineers.  The PE can be your ticket to your success!

Edited by BuickBob49 (see edit history)
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Well I officially graduated on Saturday. They have it kind of backwards, because I still have classes until the end of the week, but I'm glad because it looks like I'll be able to leave Wednesday at the latest. Then its back to Me and my Buick. :)

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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Congratulations!  Must feel great!  Best of luck in the future Ben. 

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8 hours ago, Beemon said:

Well I officially graduated on Saturday. They have it kind of backwards, because I still have classes until the end of the week, but I'm glad because it looks like I'll be able to leave Wednesday at the latest. Then its back to Me and my Buick. :)

 

 Really?  But, but, you just started school last week!  Didn't you?     Man , time flies when we are having fun.

 

 Congratulations!   

 

  Don't forget us.

 

  Ben

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I've been working this degree since 2010, the same year I started my Buick and the same year I graduated after the death of my grandmother. It's been a long road, getting sucked into the politics of community college, but I wouldn't give it up. 

 

I started my Buick project to save my grandfather from grief but it ultimately helped both of us get through life in our own ways. Im glad that despite all the shortcomings, he at least got to see the car painted again before he passed. 

 

I don't plan to go anywhere. Sometimes out of spite I threaten to sell the car, but I could never part with it because it has become not only a part of me and a part of who I am, but also the revival of my grandfather's spirit and I couldn't give that away.

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On 12/10/2019 at 4:15 PM, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

That is the spirit. Show that rascal, and the world, who is the boss.

 

I was just told you made your breaks self adjusting. Did you document the details here?

 

 Ben

 

Hi Ben,

 

I think I posted about it in Post War, but I don't blame you if nothing came up in the search bar. I can never find what I'm looking for with it.

 

The donor vehicle was a 1968 Buick Riviera, but any 12 inch drum brake Buick past I believe 1964 will work. Unfortunately they do not sell the adjuster arm new, so you need to find a good used pair at the junkyard. I found two cars and put them on the front and rears, but I had trouble finding a local shop that did custom brake lining so I went to a disc kit on the front (one I had purchased before). I still have them on the rears and they work perfect. 

 

Image may contain: 1 person

 

Here is the set installed on the front. All of the springs and associated hardware was bought NEW from NAPA. I don't remember part numbers, but you can find them on RockAuto or the NAPA catalogs. You might have to search different years or models on both sites. I used to have an excel sheet, but I think I lost it when I lost my backup thumb drive (irony).

 

No photo description available.

 

This is the replacement override spring on the left with the originals on the right. I don't know when they changed the design but they are and work the same as the originals. 

 

Hope this helps!

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So you guys remember when I started talking about vibration issues when driving the car? Well I think I figured it out, sort of.

 

Image may contain: outdoor

 

I'm not sure when this happened. Its kind of the wrong time of the year to do stuff with cars, but looks like I'll have a weekend project of aligning the front end myself. At least to within reason. It'll be difficult with tires like these, so I'll rotate them first, then align it. Hopefully with my second or third paycheck I can invest in some nice white walls, and then align it again.

 

My car still rides on original suspension equipment, but I've watched the car move through full travel and there doesn't seem to be any type of play in any of the bushings. When I first got the car, the grease was still soft where it was thin, but solid where it wasn't. I cleaned the living daylights out of all that stuff and it pushes fresh grease without issue. The only thing I threw out of whack was the tie-rod adjustment. If I remember correctly, reading one of @old-tank's posts, he used an app on his phone to use the built in gyroscope for measuring angles.

 

Image may contain: car, tree and outdoor

 

Since I'm back home, here's a vanity picture of the fleet in good ol' Wetstern Washington.

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On 12/11/2019 at 7:40 PM, Beemon said:

So you guys remember when I started talking about vibration issues when driving the car? Well I think I figured it out, sort of.

 

Image may contain: outdoor

 

I'm not sure when this happened. Its kind of the wrong time of the year to do stuff with cars, but looks like I'll have a weekend project of aligning the front end myself. At least to within reason. It'll be difficult with tires like these, so I'll rotate them first, then align it. Hopefully with my second or third paycheck I can invest in some nice white walls, and then align it again.

 

My car still rides on original suspension equipment, but I've watched the car move through full travel and there doesn't seem to be any type of play in any of the bushings. When I first got the car, the grease was still soft where it was thin, but solid where it wasn't. I cleaned the living daylights out of all that stuff and it pushes fresh grease without issue. The only thing I threw out of whack was the tie-rod adjustment. If I remember correctly, reading one of @old-tank's posts, he used an app on his phone to use the built in gyroscope for measuring angles.

 

Image may contain: car, tree and outdoor

 

Since I'm back home, here's a vanity picture of the fleet in good ol' Wetstern Washington.

Any updates?

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