Beemon

Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick

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Also, I found out that my grandfather had hit someone in the 60s and had gotten rear ended by someone at some point, too. Minor fender benders I guess. Whenever I asked him about why the front grill was broken, he always said it must have been my grandmother. Lol

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17 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Unrelated, I found this stainless steel A-pillar piece on the white Century 4-door hard top. Does anyone know if this was a retrofit thing?

That's the way it was done on 4 door hardtops, vs the pot metal of 2 door hardtops and convertibles

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19 minutes ago, old-tank said:

That's the way it was done on 4 door hardtops, vs the pot metal of 2 door hardtops and convertibles

And they probably cannot be used in the 2 door hardtop, huh. I wonder why the difference? 

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22 minutes ago, Beemon said:

And they probably cannot be used in the 2 door hardtop, huh. I wonder why the difference? 

Right. The potmetal on the 2dr can be completely unbolted and removed.  IIRC on the 4dr hardtop, the frame that the stainless screws to is part of the door. 

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Wow, I would definitely prefer that. I hate pot metal and the pieces I have do not tuck behind the window on one side. 

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3 hours ago, Beemon said:

Wow, I would definitely prefer that. I hate pot metal and the pieces I have do not tuck behind the window on one side. 

You would need a 4 door hardtop donor door and complete  vent assembly.  Both doors would need to be cut open and transferred parts welded in.  I looked long and hard at doing a conversion when I priced the restoration and chrome on the pot metal vent assembly.

Easier to buy a 4 door hardtop.:D

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The car is sitting for now while I try to figure out what to do. Spring break is over so I'm back at school and won't be back to mess with it until memorial weekend. I did land a job as a lean engineer intern over the summer so I'm thinking about putting the parts on the card and paying it back over the summer. 

 

I got a chance to fly out Saturday to Desert Valley. The only century in their public yard was toast but there were two more in a private yard that I got pictures of from the owner. It looks like that will be the way to go for solid parts. It does look like this weekend I'll be going to L&L in Idaho at my mother's request so we'll see what's out there. 

 

I still have not contacted the insurance company. After I get this third quote, I'll be forwarding to the company that would be doing the "repairs" for a final estimate.

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I must have bumped or damaged the brake light switch because it stopped working. I went to go pick up a new one,  part number SL169 from NAPA. Unlike the previous switch, this one has an intermediate section where it makes contact when not fully compressed, which made adjustment very easy! The switch plug is not sold anymore, so I went to the junkyard to get one. It was used from the mid 60s to the early 90s so they are really easy to find. The original terminals for the two pin pressure switch are the same for this switch so it was just a matter of pushing out the old clipped wires and sticking the original ones into the plug - no crimping new wires involved. Lastly, because of the intermediate switch, I was able to move the switch up to basically the highest point on the pedal, so now it's further out of the way. With an OEM plug, it also looks a lot cleaner. Unfortunately with the U- bolts, it still looks goofy but you'd never see it unless you went looking. 

 

The third image is the wear spot where the first switch was. 

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Edited by Beemon (see edit history)

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Hoping I can still use this set up when I do the master conversion.. Might have to go back to a pressure switch depending on pedal geometry.. We'll see

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6 minutes ago, 1956322 said:

Hoping I can still use this set up when I do the master conversion.. Might have to go back to a pressure switch depending on pedal geometry.. We'll see

 

The pressure switch only works when you apply your foot, but as soon as you let go, the light goes off. I know this sounds trivial, but if you ride the brake to a certain degree and move your foot on and off the pedal a lot, it won't work as intended. The whole reason I did this swap is because those hydraulic pressure switches are no good. They work, sure, but they don't work as intended. With this switch I can be riding the pedal and as long as my foot is on it, regardless of what I'm doing, the light comes on. There's a reason why the OEM switched to buttons and stopped using hydraulic switches. 

 

Are you talking about the Ebay kit where it replaces the air box plenum? It looks like a pretty good kit, but I see no reason to make the swap if the original master cylinder works just fine. It is no safer than a newer setup, speaking from experience! His AC kit on the other hand? I've been wanting to get my hands on that for a while..

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Oh I'm not a fan of the pressure switches they require to much pressure.. Yes that's the kit.. Went that route cause the original set up really isn't designed for front disk and my power booster has seen better days anyways...I did find a pressure switch online "designed for disc brakes" they claim it requires half the pressure 45 vs 90

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3 years have gone by since on the road. Hard to imagine that it's only been 3 years with all the crap I've had to endure with this car.

 

Today I went to have the title issued with new registration, the car is officially mine. Tomorrow I get to meet with the insurance company. 

 

Parts total: $1600

Shipping: $400

Paint: $900

 

That's not too bad, but I did find out from my mother that the insurance plan is not classic car insurance and there is no agreed upon value despite being told there was. So we'll see what happens.

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You'll be handed three options.. Total it out.. They take car and give you a check.. Total it out and buy it back you keep car and get a slightly smaller check and may or may not get a salvage title or option three you decline everything and keep the car and clean title but get nothing...

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