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Me and my beautiful 1956 Buick


Beemon

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Haha I more so meant mesh size 👀

 

I drove the car from home to Ellensburg, up to Wenatchee, and then over to Monroe and back down to Kent. Overall about the same trip distance to Spokane.

 

Engine temps looked good and ranged from 160 up to 190. I'm not a huge fan of this range because it used to never float like that. In Ellensburg at idle it refused to come down. Ambient air temp was about 84. Driving up to Wenatchee saw a very steep elevation climb. At 60 it was most comfortable at 180, and was up to 190 by the time I got to the top of the pass, then dropped again on the way down to 160. 

 

In Wenatchee I bought Seafoam, Lucas oil stabilizer, and Prestone radiator flush. Seafoam in the gas tank, Lucas in the crank, and Prestone in the radiator. The Seafoam helped alleviate some rough idle and onset vapor lock, and the Lucas helped boost my idle pressure to where I would like it (going to be doing an oil change soon).

 

As for the Prestone,I figured despite the bottles instructions, I dumped it in with the antifreeze. I figured I'm not the first guy to do this... there wasn't an immediate difference until I was 30 minutes out of town and the temps suddenly dropped without change in speed or ambient temperature, so there must have been a blockage at some point. Temp was good the rest of the way home except doing down Steven's Pass where it dropped in excess below 130, indicating the thermostat must be blocked open. Not the worst problem to have... I'm going to run it through next weekend and see if I can get erratic temperatures again before I decide if I want to pull it.  July will be in the 90s so not sure if 84 is the best representation of a test but I figure I can do a trip to Vantage to see if I'll be in trouble. 

 

In the mean time, I'm going to try and pull the headlight switch and see if I can figure out the dash lights not working anymore. Most likely the rheostat... and see if I can fix my power antenna... and install my missing fasteners. 

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Yep, do not buy these. They lock open when you shut the car off. I replaced it with a 180 and drilled a 1/16 hole oriented towards the front. Found more rust chunks also. I'm going to try and get a vacuum flush. The pantyhose are getting purchased tonight lol

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I haven't done it yet but I'm also going to re-verify timing and dwell just to see if anything has changed. 

 

Generator is charging about 13.8 to 14.1, so just about perfect, but it did spike at highway speed to about 14.7. It seems to be operating nominally, is it normal to see 14.7 or should I get at the voltage regulator? 

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14.7 is about what modern cars do. Yours wouldn't have originally, maybe more like 14.2, assuming room temperature. I wouldn't worry about it unless it continues to rise beyond that. I like them set a little high. In fact, 14.7 is probably what I would shoot for.

 

Edited by Bloo (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well it happened again. I got stopped in traffic on the interstate for a vehicle collision. 72 degrees ambient outside temperature. Temps rose to 220+ and had to ride the throttle. Once we got past the accident, it was about 2 minutes of constant 70 mph to bring temps back to 180.

 

Yesterday I drained and removed the radiator. It is at the shop today to be soaked, boiled, and shook. If they can't get it to flow then they are going to separate the tanks and rod it out. 

 

I figure if it can't survive 72 degrees, it's not going to survive 95 in July. 

 

I also borescoped my water pump just to see, everything is okay in there so no major concerns. I am pretty sure after eliminating the water pump and thermostat, and with the use of the stock fixed blade fan, that the radiator is the culprit. 

 

LT is 5-10 business days so there isn't any concern about getting to Spokane. I'm going to play with a 5-blade stock cooling fan and clutch off a Riviera when I put it back together. 

 

Unrelated, I noticed my power steering pump pulley was loose. I loosened the belts and sure enough it rocks a little loose. I zipped the nut off and it came off the shaft with little effort. I don't seem to have the best luck with pumps and pulleys... there was some wear on the bottom edge where I presume it was wobbling back and forth. I put it back on after knocking down some edges with a file. It looks like it sits flush, so not sure how it came loose. I might attempt to replace the lock nut.

 

Both belts are stretched and were already at the end of the adjustment so I'll be replacing both. 

 

I think once it's all back together it will be pretty solid. On my to do list is to fix my dash lights, remove my tach and auxiliary gauges, oil change, antenna, and secure the rest of the sheet metal. I'd like to replace my hose clamps but we'll see. 

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23 minutes ago, Beemon said:

I'm going to play with a 5-blade stock cooling fan and clutch off a Riviera when I put it back together. 

Not to resurrect the dreaded clutch fan on a mid 50s Buick thread, but if you decide to go this route recommend use of the HD clutch, not the standard duty, and a 5 blade 3 inch pitch min fan.  
 

It works well with the Beemon super duty air filter. 👍

 

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5 minutes ago, KAD36 said:

Not to resurrect the dreaded clutch fan on a mid 50s Buick thread, but if you decide to go this route recommend use of the HD clutch, not the standard duty, and a 5 blade 3 inch pitch min fan.  
 

It works well with the Beemon super duty air filter. 👍

 

Did a ton of research on this before, and I have used the clutch fan prior to the overheating issue, but the correct fan clutch for a 65 Riviera is a 2747 HD fan clutch. If it's good enough for a 401, I think it should do well for the 322. The part number I used in the past was an HD clutch as well, 271303 from NAPA (2747 part above) and worked great until it didn't (confirmed with heat gun and thermometer). I had an aftermarket 6 blade 2 in pitch fan I think you suggested way back in 2017.

 

I'm currently digging through some old posts, but on the lookout for the stock standard 5 blade 3 inch pitch fan that has 2 blades offset and held in with 5 rivets. 

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5 hours ago, Beemon said:

I had an aftermarket 6 blade 2 in pitch fan I think you suggested way back in 2017.

To borrow your quote…that —-^…. worked well until it didn’t. 

 

5 hours ago, Beemon said:

the stock standard 5 blade 3 inch pitch fan that has 2 blades offset and held in with 5 rivets. 

That ought to do it.  With the AC on a 95 deg day if it gets too hot in traffic a fast idle in N will bring it down from 215-220 to just a bit over 200, and 200 is N on my gauge taken at the temp sensor in the head.  FWIW my 5 blade fan is from a late 70s olds wagon with either a 350 or 403.  3 inch pitch 19.25 inch but just not with the 2 offset blades.
 

Do the JD trick and seal around the shroud if you have to.  It really pulls a lot of air.  Good luck!

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7 hours ago, Beemon said:

72 degrees ambient outside temperature. Temps rose to 220+ and had to ride the throttle. Once we got past the accident, it was about 2 minutes of constant 70 mph to bring temps back to 180.

I don't know the science behind applying vacuum advance to help the engine run cooler at idle but it almost seems that since these cars run 0 vacuum advance at idle, a thermo switch like the later 60's/70's engines is a possible solution.

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4 hours ago, EmTee said:

Have the radiator shop flow test your radiator.  This video is of the radiator from my '38 Century before & after the re-core:

 

https://www.caparadiator.com/video

 

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They are going to do all the professional tricks, including flow test. They are going to attempt to check all the boxes before they take it apart but at this point...

 

57 minutes ago, old-tank said:

The ONLY thing other than new core that will be effective!  Anything else is just "pissing in the wind"!

I agree, and this is most likely what is going to happen. 

 

The core is solid, hopefully they do not recore. I would be very surprised if they had to recore.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I have not heard back from the radiator shop so I made a conscious consumer decision and traded in my 2008 Z71 Avalanche for a 2019 Regal GS. Come July I will be in a Buick, yet to determine which one. 

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14 minutes ago, Beemon said:

Well I have not heard back from the radiator shop so I made a conscious consumer decision and traded in my 2008 Z71 Avalanche for a 2019 Regal GS. Come July I will be in a Buick, yet to determine which one. 

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Sweet car Ben!  Looks great in that color!

 

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On 6/27/2023 at 4:07 AM, Beemon said:

Well I have not heard back from the radiator shop so I made a conscious consumer decision and traded in my 2008 Z71 Avalanche for a 2019 Regal GS. Come July I will be in a Buick, yet to determine which one. 

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Woww gorgeous ! :wub:  , Buicks are not sold in France, and there is no Buick Regal from the years 2010/2020 in France.
Opel, which is part of the GM group, has the Opel Insigna, which is the same as the Buick Regal.
While researching I discovered (in 2019) the 2015/2016 Buick Regal GS and wanted to buy one.
But in France it is not found, and it was necessary to import one from America, but with the price of the import, tax ..., the final price was almost double :(
And so I didn't import a Buick GS, and I couldn't buy one :( 

 

here is the version sold in France from Opel

 

https://www.caradisiac.com/modele--opel-insignia-2-grand-sport/

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The Opel Insginia GSi should be the exact same car as the Buick Regal GS, and you can buy the Buick badging and steering wheel from any GM parts outlet so it would be really easy to "convert" over. I actually prefer the Avenir front end over the GS front end, I feel like its much more aerodynamic. However, this 3.6L V6 engine is really fun and fast. Its not supercar fast, but its faster than it probably should be. I think it may also have a tune stored because the engine auto stop/start has been disabled. 

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1 hour ago, Beemon said:

The Opel Insginia GSi should be the exact same car as the Buick Regal GS, and you can buy the Buick badging and steering wheel from any GM parts outlet so it would be really easy to "convert" over. I actually prefer the Avenir front end over the GS front end, I feel like its much more aerodynamic. However, this 3.6L V6 engine is really fun and fast. Its not supercar fast, but its faster than it probably should be. I think it may also have a tune stored because the engine auto stop/start has been disabled. 

 

Yes I was also thinking of changing the Opel logo with that of Buick to make a copy of a Buick Regal, but I would have liked to have a real Buick that comes from America, and not an Opel re badger :( .
Then I don't know if it's exactly the same as the Buick sold in America, is it the same engine, finish, bumper details,...?

Vehicles in Europe are (normally/mainly) less powerful than in America, for example here in France (and in Europe), the Fiat Ducato truck in its most powerful version is 130 hp or 150 hp, and I have since in America the bodywork of the Fiat has been taken over by Dodge, and it is available with a 280 hp V6 ! :) 

It's a shame that in France and Europe there is not this model of truck available :( 

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  • 2 weeks later...

The radiator was done TODAY (7/11). I picked it up and just finished installing, filling, and repairing both my power antenna and light switch. 

 

Turns out on my light switch, the reason why I had no gauge lights was because the contactor lever on the back side of the rheostat was rusted. I took the whole thing apart again just to be sure. Used my girlfriend's nail filer to clean up all the contacts, and I have lights again. 

 

I also picked up a couple bolts and tightened down my driver fender. I'm still concerned about the battery tray support, but it's better than it was. 

 

I am a little concerned about the charging system, it experienced a hiccup today after I buttoned everything up and wasn't charging. After idling at 700 for 10 minutes it started charging again after it stopped for 10 minutes. I hope this was a fluke, but just in case I let the voltage regulator know what's up with the palm of my hand. 

 

I have not experienced any cooling anomalies, and the panty hose is in the radiator. See yall tomorrow? 

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My ranco valve blew, I'm trying to figure out how I can bypass it. I've lost quite a bit of coolant now. It's all over the floor on the passenger side, too. Looks like the solder joint broke between the tube and the mount because I can wiggle it back and forth. 

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Go Beemon!  Have a great time, thanks for the updates.

 

3 hours ago, avgwarhawk said:

Those Ranco valves....when they go they go. Sorry for your troubles. 

Ain’t that the truth…

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I've been going a bit stir crazy, my girlfriend wanted to go back to our home away from home after lunch so I started tinkering with some toys I brought with me. 

 

No one noticed, but the front of my car said "Special". So I went and swapped out this centerpiece I've had in the trunk for a while now. The medallion is a little bent so I'll massage that later, but at least the car trim is complete again.

 

I might see if I can get a second set of valve cover gaskets and put my Edelbrock valve covers back on the engine. 

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4 hours ago, EmTee said:

Did you get the heater valve bypassed?  Maybe you can actually get a replacement while you're there!  ;)

It is bypassed. I looked at the swap meet stuff but did not see a ranco valve. I'll have more fun rebuilding it when I get home. 

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The misses and I went out to one of the local parks. We saw the falls and the river and got some lunch. I did get some pictures before we left and hung out with Mr Ben Bruce before leaving. I saw Willie leave in his Buick so I didn't feel bad leaving in mine. Currently trying to brace her for the full five hours tomorrow when the show starts. 

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Pulled my valve covers tonight and replaced my chrome covers with my Edelbrock valve covers I've had in the trunk forever. I also have the spark plug wire covers, but I can't find the nuts so I'll have to stop by the hardware store prior to the meet. 

 

My 65 Riv rocker shafts still looks brand new.

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IMG_20230715_215049_110.jpg.bcc28e20bbef7e3e3a66d0418d0cdcc4.jpgIMG_20230715_215050_903.jpg.517b9630005b1eacefafae92b5884abb.jpg

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Here's some telemetry data from our 75 mph jaunts. On the way home I think we averaged 80. The temp needle is pointing at the 210 mark. I think if I had the stock fan, and wasn't dumping hot coolant through the heater core into the bottom of the radiator tank, it would be a little cooler. As soon as we crossed snoqualmie pass, it dropped back to 180 and stayed there the rest of the way home. 

 

So with the thermostat and radiator eliminated (and confirmed to be a problem), and the fan has no immediate effect, it's one of two things: 

1) water pump for some reason is not pumping the correct gpm

2) engine is worn out so much its causing excess heat...

 

Both options are plausible I suppose, the water pump was rebuilt 7 years ago and should still be good. The engine itself is unknown miles and never been apart based on my inspections. Will investigate tomorrow, maybe. 

 

Also just like my Buick, I'm working on my two tone:

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And speaking of two tone Buicks, here's two beautiful Buicks side by side: 

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Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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My 54 runs temperature similar.  65 plus highway she'll steady climb to 210.  Drop to 55 on the highway so does the temp.  Running country roads at 55 the temp drops even lower.  Highways are just very hot. 65 plus on a hot highway is not so friendly to our cooling systems. However, I have never boiled over while running hard on the highway.  Me thinks a 4th gear in my manual would make a difference. 

Edited by avgwarhawk (see edit history)
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8 hours ago, old-tank said:

Ben your cooling system is working as well as or better than expected.  Leave it alone and move on to some other project. 😀

One of the worst things I did was to install a temperature gauge in my Skylark. TMI. Useful? For sure. Torturous for OCD types like me? For sure.

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It needs to be PERFECT!! Haha, maybe highway is good. I still don't see flow from the pump into the tank revving the engine, but I idled it for a good 40 minutes with the 4 blade and it never crept above 180 - a huge change over the near 230 temps I saw at the drive thru in Spokane with the clutch fan. I idle right around 650. Looks like I'll need to do another east side trip to verify it's not going to overheat, it should maintain cool around town without AC just fine I would think, I don't remember it ever behaving this way before. 

 

I did take Willie's advice and taped up my generator loom. So now it's not just a bunch of wires. 20230716_170536.jpg.e2fd08c88ebb60b142a03c4a8fea0214.jpg

 

I also removed the Ranco valve, I think I'll start a thread for this in Post-War. The kitchen sink is acting parts washer when they aren't looking...

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