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What to do about driver door:(


RetroJohnny

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Okay so I was driving in a parking lot today and an older lady backed right into me.. she had no bumper nor any reverse lights and next thing I know theres a large dent and the glass is done for, we traded info and what not.. but my question is if a body shop can't fix these damages where in the world could a driver side door and window  for a 89 Reatta? Very Frustrated :(

20170730_212101.jpg

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Thanks for all the input guys! My body shop guy said he is gonna look into it and keep me updated, he did say he will most likely have to overcoat the whole area around the door to match paint or something like that. But I will keep you all updated and will ask questions if i get stuck along the way.. Thank you all. I am so glad there is so much support on this site and everyone is so helpful:)

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16 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

PLINKTON for the glass, and Jim Finn (or a Yard near you, or another Vendor here) for a replacement door, or a Body Shop can easily repair the dent- and it's much easier with the window removed first.

 

PLINKTON WEBSITE

 

Safelite Auto Glass near you

 

GOOD LUCK, PLEASE KEEP US POSTED.

if it bent the door enough to break the glass that sounds like major bodywork to me.imo get another door.

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After looking at the inside of my own '89 for reference- I can now state that I was way wrong about any "body work" being able to fix damage on that level. Not just the outside skin- but the inside is where the major damage occurred, and that is a total loss. The window tracks, guides, and alignment of all is tight when all is proper on a Reatta- but now it is so screwed up (enough to bust the glass) that it will never be right again.

 

Yep, get another door. But- have your Body Guy gut all mechanisms from your damaged door:

 

Latches (the whole unit. you may need a part down the road)

Handles

Lock cylinder (definitely)

Mirror and it's glass

Courtesy light module

Etc.

 

All these (minus the lock) fit in a small box that's easily kept. Hey- you never know.

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14 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

After looking at the inside of my own '89 for reference- I can now state that I was way wrong about any "body work" being able to fix damage on that level. Not just the outside skin- but the inside is where the major damage occurred, and that is a total loss. The window tracks, guides, and alignment of all is tight when all is proper on a Reatta- but now it is so screwed up (enough to bust the glass) that it will never be right again.

 

Yep, get another door. But- have your Body Guy gut all mechanisms from your damaged door:

 

Latches (the whole unit. you may need a part down the road)

Handles

Lock cylinder (definitely)

Mirror and it's glass

Courtesy light module

Etc.

 

All these (minus the lock) fit in a small box that's easily kept. Hey- you never know.

Oh yeah! I think I am gonna use some cold hard cash and contact east coast Reatta.. they must have quite a few whole door assemblies right?

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7 hours ago, RetroJohnny said:

Oh yeah! I think I am gonna use some cold hard cash and contact east coast Reatta.. they must have quite a few whole door assemblies right?

 Better hurry. Marck has a wedding coming up.

John

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22 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

 

10 hours ago, RetroJohnny said:

Oh yeah! I think I am gonna use some cold hard cash and contact east coast Reatta.. they must have quite a few whole door assemblies right?

 

Are you being sarcastic or serious? My posts are meant to be helpful. As I see it- the eBay selection is good. Have your Body guy clean, scuff, maybe Dolly or putty any dings- color match paint, then shoot it and your outside handle. Transfer all the trim and inner stuff, get a window, done. Maybe $600-$700 when all done. 

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Sorry 89 RDG but $300.00 for a door missing almost everything plus $150.00 to ship is obscene. I buy whole cars for about that [$450.00]. A door from a You Pick yard should be $100.00 or so [I paid $50.00 for the last one I got from Gibson's]. 

 

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That would be the ideal situation to remedy this- if this had happened to you. If this had happened to you- would you have posted this?

 

On ‎7‎/‎30‎/‎2017 at 10:33 PM, RetroJohnny said:

but my question is if a body shop can't fix these damages where in the world could a driver side door and window  for a 89 Reatta? Very Frustrated :(

 

No. I took this as a Member who is not as DIY savvy as you or I. If he was able to

 

14 minutes ago, DAVES89 said:

A door from a You Pick yard should be $100.00 or so

 

would he have sounded lost, desperate, frustrated? No. Does he live near a Pick-n-Pull? I live near two Yards- and neither of them have a Reatta to part from. The Government program "Cash for Clunkers" totally decimated my area of "old" cars, and many Yards and Used lots sold & fold. My transmission came from Erie, PA, and that was the closest I could find.

 

As I get told that "not everyone here is a mechanic" well- not everyone here lives near Gibson's.

 

As savvy as you claim to be- it's kinda sad that you're only input to this thread- is to criticize my suggestions- instead of trying to help the Member in need. Really sad.

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Digger914 had the correct answer in Post 3.  I referred to you in my response as if we were having a multi person conversation and just commented the price was obscene and intimated he shouldn't pay it.

 Why must an opposite opinion to yours be considered an attack on you?

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1 minute ago, DAVES89 said:

 Why must an opposite opinion to yours be considered an attack on you?

 

It wasn't what you wrote- it was how you wrote it. Like I stated- your only input was to 100% disagree with me. It wasn't an attack- it was a "hey, don't listen to this goof- he's way off base- as usual" post.

 

I'm dropping this matter, here and now. I gave my advice (gleaned from actual experiences with myself and Customers at work).

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On ‎7‎/‎31‎/‎2017 at 1:16 AM, Digger914 said:

This is a great link to have for chasing down parts,  http://car-part.com/  and if you can't get your door fixed, there is a $150  red drivers door in Portland TN that looks like a good color match.

 

Ok- so I just did this- here is the result (screen shot)

 

capture-20170802-133450.thumb.png.67f577fc8da0c8f124d1fbbbaec3fdf9.png

 

As the insurance Adjuster would probably do- they go by price (as I chose).

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11 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

 

Ok- so I just did this- here is the result (screen shot)

 

capture-20170802-133450.thumb.png.67f577fc8da0c8f124d1fbbbaec3fdf9.png

 

As the insurance Adjuster would probably do- they go by price (as I chose).

I was being serious about my previous comment, that is the route i am most likely going with.. East Coast Reatta. And yes she did back into me, and I was surprised on what my insurance is doing. So hang tight and let me explain. At first the guy said the car is totaled and there is nothing he can do, and I really spoke my mind about that and told him the car runs fine and is worth fixing and he needs to see what he can do.. So after a few times of being put on hold, they came to the conclusion that they are going to give me a check for 3,700$ and let me do as I wish with it. AND in my opinion that is a fine deal! That leaves me plenty to buy a brand new door, a brand new window and then just have the whole car repainted! But yes I believe I am going to do business with East Coast Reatta, or if his quote is more than I am comfortable with, there is a black door for sale on eBay for 360$.. 

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Oh, by the way.. No it turned out she didn't have any insurance. So the check is coming from my insurance company as an Uninsured Motorist Claim. SO they are going to go after her for not having insurance because I don't think it makes them too happy to hand me a check for 3,700$ :D But none of that is my business. The faster this money comes the faster my car can be outta this garage catching dust 

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Maybe Jim Finn (reattas.60@gmail.com) could help out? My original find, 

 

On ‎8‎/‎1‎/‎2017 at 1:11 PM, 89RedDarkGrey said:

 

sounded good to me- a good choice, because it's already bare, and (comparatively) light weight. Just as with a Machine Shop, Butcher, etc.- everything counts with the labor involved. If your Body Shop must take everything off to scuff, sand, seal, and paint- why not start with a bare door? Everything in the bad door is still good, and can be easily transferred over.

 

Scroll to the bottom of your eBay selection, (HEY! A VIN# FOR BARNEY:)) and you'll see that they ship by freight only, to a loading dock. A complete door is extremely heavy and costly. A door shell and window are not. (Is that a "complete" door?)

 

Also- check out what I found (following Digger914 advice). There are several Yards in your area; go get it yourself? No shipping. Order a window. Daves89 idea of a U-Pick Yard is excellent, in your case.

 

http://www.EastCoastReattaParts.com is going to be costly, for sure- you always pay for the "quality and convenience" of plug-and-play,  but as I stated before- for a quality paint job- things must be removed any way. The door handle & lock cylinder have rubber gaskets- that can not be "masked off". You don't want a "waxed shiny" body part, either. You don't totally strip it down to bare metal, and ruin the Factory primer- but instead lightly sand, putty any dings, seal & color-match paint. Wait a week- reinstall stuff, re hang and adjust closure. Now's a nice opportunity to get a new window motor, have all the mechanisms greased, working smoothly. You'll still be able to use your original key.

 

My posting(s) here are about helping a "confused and VERY frustrated" Member in a tough situation. Make that check go as far as possible. I'm not trying to grandstand, take control, or argue with other Members here. If someone  disagrees with something I post- then say it respectfully, just as I would to you. I'm not always right, never said I was.

 

There was a time- when my opinion and advice were welcomed and heeded- and I got paid for it. I made a lot of Customers happy, and repaired a lot of vehicles- with very few comebacks. I'm sorry I don't have "credentials" to post, or a website. I'm just here to help.

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10 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

Maybe Jim Finn (reattas.60@gmail.com) could help out? My original find, 

 

 

sounded good to me- a good choice, because it's already bare, and (comparatively) light weight. Just as with a Machine Shop, Butcher, etc.- everything counts with the labor involved. If your Body Shop must take everything off to scuff, sand, seal, and paint- why not start with a bare door? Everything in the bad door is still good, and can be easily transferred over.

 

Scroll to the bottom of your eBay selection, (HEY! A VIN# FOR BARNEY:)) and you'll see that they ship by freight only, to a loading dock. A complete door is extremely heavy and costly. A door shell and window are not. (Is that a "complete" door?)

 

Also- check out what I found (following Digger914 advice). There are several Yards in your area; go get it yourself? No shipping. Order a window. Daves89 idea of a U-Pick Yard is excellent, in your case.

 

http://www.EastCoastReattaParts.com is going to be costly, for sure- you always pay for the "quality and convenience" of plug-and-play,  but as I stated before- for a quality paint job- things must be removed any way. The door handle & lock cylinder have rubber gaskets- that can not be "masked off". You don't want a "waxed shiny" body part, either. You don't totally strip it down to bare metal, and ruin the Factory primer- but instead lightly sand, putty any dings, seal & color-match paint. Wait a week- reinstall stuff, re hang and adjust closure. Now's a nice opportunity to get a new window motor, have all the mechanisms greased, working smoothly. You'll still be able to use your original key.

 

My posting(s) here are about helping a "confused and VERY frustrated" Member in a tough situation. Make that check go as far as possible. I'm not trying to grandstand, take control, or argue with other Members here. If someone  disagrees with something I post- then say it respectfully, just as I would to you. I'm not always right, never said I was.

 

There was a time- when my opinion and advice were welcomed and heeded- and I got paid for it. I made a lot of Customers happy, and repaired a lot of vehicles- with very few comebacks. I'm sorry I don't have "credentials" to post, or a website. I'm just here to help.

Thank you for all of your input RDG, I will look into scrap yards near me if that has to become an option, and yes I realize that the door can only be shipped to a facility with a loading dock, that adds to my options and things I will have to think about, I just hope I can get this cleared up before the first of September! :D

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2 hours ago, Imperial62 said:

Remember Marck has had to put in labor to remove, determine value, carefully store (at cost).  What may be seen as a bargain on ebay may or may not be, whereas Marck is one of us and would back up what he provides.  I know Jim would too.  And Marck and I are not necessarily on speaking or PM'ing terms.  I just think I would go to one of "our" guys over an ebayer, if the difference is $50 to $150. 

 

It looks like your insurer is going to give you a lot of money for your car, wow.  Is that for the whole car or an estimated repair of the door?  

Well my body shop guy quoted that the repair for the dented door would cost 3,200 for some ridiculous reason and he sent that to state farm. and they estimated that the current value of my Reatta is about 3,500 dollars. And I don't know how those insurance companies work but they just decided they will give me a check for 3,700 and let me make the decision. So I guess this could maybe be a blessing in disguise? B)

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Yes, that's how it works.

 

The Body Guy knows his stuff- but don't be fooled. A quality repair is going to be easily $1k. The route I suggested to take- will cost maybe $1k to $1.8k. Maybe slightly more. A "complete" door is the easiest- but most costly choice.

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With all the conversing about this one little door, I had to check the EBay price for the black door from J & J against the locator price and to my surprise the EBay price was lower.  Think they might be clearing out stock and they could be ready to take a best offer price.

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RetroJohnny- have you called the Yards around your TN area yet? Because of the weight ("complete" door is about ~100 lbs. and a "shell" is about ~85 lbs.) the S&H is the killer. If you get it yourself- you'd save $$.

 

Digger914- what was the eBay price for that black door + S&H ?

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47 minutes ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

RetroJohnny- have you called the Yards around your TN area yet? Because of the weight ("complete" door is about ~100 lbs. and a "shell" is about ~85 lbs.) the S&H is the killer. If you get it yourself- you'd save $$.

 

Digger914- what was the eBay price for that black door + S&H ?

 

$360.00 down 10% from the $400 listed price.

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4 hours ago, 89RedDarkGrey said:

RetroJohnny- have you called the Yards around your TN area yet? Because of the weight ("complete" door is about ~100 lbs. and a "shell" is about ~85 lbs.) the S&H is the killer. If you get it yourself- you'd save $$.

 

Digger914- what was the eBay price for that black door + S&H ?

Yeah I called 3 so far, none have any Reattas in stock, so i'm afraid there is a road trip ahead or shipping prices

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Looking at that glass it's one good sneeze away from becoming a million small pieces. Masking off the inner door opening really helps to keep the glass out of the carpet, lot easier to keep it out than it is to clean it out and spreading a tarp now is better than sweeping later.

 

Road trips for parts can be fun, more fun when the part you go looking for turns out to be better than expected, not as much fun when it doesn't. Can't advise on where to get the best available part, get most of my parts closer to home, only done business with one yard in Ohio and it's not the one that has your door. Didn't know there was a Portland in Tennessee until a couple days ago. 

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1 hour ago, RetroJohnny said:

Yeah I called 3 so far, none have any Reattas in stock, so i'm afraid there is a road trip ahead or shipping prices

 

This is a screen shot, from my computer, showing the listed results of what Digger914 suggested http://car-part.com/

 

 

There are 4 listed.

 

Go to the site, fill out info: FRONT DOOR.  I just did it again. You call, ask about the Stock#, not a whole car.

 

 

5983f8b02e002_STEP01.thumb.jpg.aa251b14f76a8f26ca30c8c98230899a.jpg

 

5983f8cbf067f_STEP02.thumb.jpg.b482ccbf68594f6e2615351f9c506c59.jpg

 

5983f8e42d8ce_STEP3.thumb.jpg.c67ad0fe8021ac7802512816eb848481.jpg

 

The closest to "Memphis, TN 37501" is 79 MILES away. Go pick one up, your choice, save the S&H cost.

 

I guess you DON'T live near a Yard like some do. Oh, well.

 

At least we're trying!

 

OH- AND HERE'S GLASS, TOO! CAN'T BEAT THESE PRICES:)

 

5983fda13abe5_L_FRONTDOORGLASS.thumb.jpg.0513112bd4579a24c72790635a1fddcc.jpg

 

BRING A BUDDY, PACK A COOLER- ROAD TRIP.  221 MILES 1-WAY HAS THE DOOR AND GLASS.

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Imperial62 said:

I personally would not want to deal with a shop that priced $3200 because that tells me they don't really want to do it and they don't have someone qualified to do it, or both.

 

Most likely- they're trying to pocket your check. Scuff, putty, seal, color match paint should be $300 or so. How DIY savvy are you? Heck- with the help of a Friend, this Forum & ROJ- you could reassemble it all yourself in a few hours, save even more.

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Well- here's info on that black eBay door  http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-89-90-91-BUICK-REATTA-Left-Front-Door-/162553746495?fits=Make%3ABuick|Model%3AReatta&hash=item25d8f5543f:g:IGMAAOSwyltZQZC-&vxp=mtr   that you were looking at.

 

I logged into my eBay, contacted the seller about TOTAL cost with freight S&H to Memphis, TN 37501. Here is his email response:

 

Reatta Door space.gif

space.gifJamie Brown show image slideshow
From space.gifJamie Brown jamie@jnjoh.com
   
   
   
 
Good Morning ,
 
Shipping would be $165 to a commercial address with a forklift or towmotor to unload the pallet off the truck or to a local freight terminal via Central Transport closest to your residence. The total cost out the door is $525
 
Thanks 
 
 
Jamie Brown
 
J & J Auto Wrecking Inc
8558 Black Diamond Rd
Marshallville, OH 44645
1-800-425-1555 Fax 330-855-2940
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On 8/4/2017 at 0:10 PM, 89RedDarkGrey said:

Well- here's info on that black eBay door  http://www.ebay.com/itm/88-89-90-91-BUICK-REATTA-Left-Front-Door-/162553746495?fits=Make%3ABuick|Model%3AReatta&hash=item25d8f5543f:g:IGMAAOSwyltZQZC-&vxp=mtr   that you were looking at.

 

I logged into my eBay, contacted the seller about TOTAL cost with freight S&H to Memphis, TN 37501. Here is his email response:

 

Reatta Door space.gif

space.gifJamie Brown show image slideshow
From space.gifJamie Brown jamie@jnjoh.com
   
   
   
 
Good Morning ,
 
Shipping would be $165 to a commercial address with a forklift or towmotor to unload the pallet off the truck or to a local freight terminal via Central Transport closest to your residence. The total cost out the door is $525
 
Thanks 
 
 
Jamie Brown
 
J & J Auto Wrecking Inc
8558 Black Diamond Rd
Marshallville, OH 44645
1-800-425-1555 Fax 330-855-2940

Thank you so much for that! And to answer your question, no I am not going to that Body Shop guy, you are correct, that price is a little exaggerated! I will most likely be buying that black door and having it shipped to my father's work, Advance Auto because that has a towmotor and they said it would be okay to be shipped there. I will take all working components out of my door, along with a new window regulator and window and do the whole installation myself (my father may have to help a little :D) Then after the new door and what not is installed I am going to take it to a paint shop in the city, I have a few in mind, and let them just re-paint the whole car red and put new gold pin-striping on. Then I will have to take it back to where I got the car tinted and have that new window tinted.. I hope to see this car as it was seen back in the 80's, like I can't imagine how that new paint is going to shine! Very Excited about that.. But as of now all I can do is plan and wait for a check.

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1 hour ago, RetroJohnny said:

Thank you so much for that! And to answer your question, no I am not going to that Body Shop guy, you are correct, that price is a little exaggerated! I will most likely be buying that black door and having it shipped to my father's work, Advance Auto because that has a towmotor and they said it would be okay to be shipped there. I will take all working components out of my door, along with a new window regulator and window and do the whole installation myself (my father may have to help a little :D) Then after the new door and what not is installed I am going to take it to a paint shop in the city, I have a few in mind, and let them just re-paint the whole car red and put new gold pin-striping on. Then I will have to take it back to where I got the car tinted and have that new window tinted.. I hope to see this car as it was seen back in the 80's, like I can't imagine how that new paint is going to shine! Very Excited about that.. But as of now all I can do is plan and wait for a check.

 

While you have everything out of the black door and before you attach it to the car, clean up and paint that part of the door that you can see when it's open. Even a  scuff up rattle can paint job there will look a lot better five years from now than a color change jam job done after it's on the car with weather strip and door panel in place.

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2 hours ago, RetroJohnny said:

Then after the new door and what not is installed I am going to take it to a paint shop in the city, I have a few in mind, and let them just re-paint the whole car red and put new gold pin-striping on

 

12 minutes ago, Digger914 said:

While you have everything out of the black door and before you attach it to the car, clean up and paint that part of the door that you can see when it's open. Even a  scuff up rattle can paint job there will look a lot better five years from now than a color change jam job done after it's on the car with weather strip and door panel in place

 

100% AGREED. YOU HAVE TIME? DO STUFF RIGHT. DON'T ENTIRELY RELY ON A BODY SHOP.

 

As I stated earlier- the lock cylinders and door handles have rubber gaskets, that can not be masked off. You must get the door (and car) painted with certain things removed. Parking light modules, tail light modules, inside door panels, rear "Reatta" emblem, door window sills, etc. DO NOT REMOVE THE HOOD EMBLEM. You will already have one door ready. Walmart has THESE that will scuff the jams and edges of all nicely (surface prep is the most important part). The best thing you could do for your car- and your choice Body Shop- is to get everything removed, wash the whole car with HOT water and baking soda 1/4 cup to a gallon, and scuff the entire car, paying extra attention to all edges (hood, doors, trunk, wheel wells, etc. to help remove anything built up. Rinse well. Tell them you want a "scuff and shoot", 2 base, 2 clear, and stress that the front fenders and headlight doors are PLASTIC COMPOSITE.

 

Doing this work will save you at least $100, and you'll have the peace of mind the edges won't check and peel.

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  • 1 month later...

Very obvious- the black doors' pinstripe was not Factory (too high, and completely across door). :huh:

 

I felt really bad for you- you were so distraught in your first post of this thread:(:angry::blink::o (I would've been too)

 

Your Body Shop did a nice job- it's like it never happenedB)

 

Now... DON'T PARK NEAR ANYONE, EVER AGAIN.:ph34r:

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