Mack0331

My 57 Buick special project

Recommended Posts

Well I don't have the stud things and don't see them in the box with the torque ball. Where the hell am I going to find those ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


Benefits of AACA Membership.

15 hours ago, Beemon said:

The kit comes with shims, you need to read the shop manual and then determine by hand what the right clearance "feels like".

Just use two of the shim as gaskets.  No need to 'set' anything when using the outer torque ball retainer with rubber.  Coat the rubber with silicone grease (Silglyde---NAPA  and drive happy.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the torque ball all rebuilt and the trans and motor in. The trans mount I got from CARS was a real piece of precision engineering lol. Wasn't even close to fitting. Had to elongate the two end holes on the crossmember to get it to fit. Its all in though. 

20180322_164302.jpg

20180322_183715.jpg

20180324_122528.jpg

20180324_122558.jpg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Holy shit boys the body is back on. Sprayed the underside with raptor bed liner and got it set back on. The rear end needs to come left a bit I think the panhard bar is bent. Is it supposed to have a bend in it like in my pic or be straight ? It had that bend in it when I got the car thought it might just be like that but the rear is deffinetly too far to the right side of the car so something's up. 

20180328_160705.jpg

20180328_163808.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a straight bar for the '56.  That looks like it's damaged in my opinion but I don't have a '57.

Edited by JohnD1956 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Definitely is supposed to be straight.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I tried to find a pic on Google before I painted and put that one in but couldn't find much. Decided to just put it in and deal with it later if it was bent. With the rear end sitting to far right I guess I better find one now. Try to find a stock one or maybe a adjustable that will fit ? 

Edited by Mack0331
Spelling (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing to note is that when the suspension is completely unloaded, the rear end will sit off to one side a bit, due to the geometry of the bar.  But I would really try to source one from another car.  That one is fubar.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, Mack0331 said:

I tried to find a pic on Google before I painted and put that one in but couldn't find much. Decided to just put it in and deal with it later if it was bent. With the rear end sitting to far right I guess I better find one now. Try to find a stock one or maybe a adjustable that will fit ? 

 

It should be straight for sure.  If push came to shove I would believe a threaded end bar with attaching adjustable end could be made. I believe the original ends are welded to the bar? Cut the welds and cut a new bar to correct length?  

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, Mack0331 said:

I tried to find a pic on Google before I painted and put that one in but couldn't find much. Decided to just put it in and deal with it later if it was bent. With the rear end sitting to far right I guess I better find one now. Try to find a stock one or maybe a adjustable that will fit ? 

 

If you can not find an  OE I believe Classic Industries can offer an adjustable panhard.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mack, 

 

It is supposed to be straight. That is quite the curvature on that panhard bar. I would try to find a replacement for that one. I'm quite sure someone on the forum has one for a 57 available. On the otherside, your progress is looking great! I wish my wagon was at that level right now...

 

Jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the info. I put up.a wanted post in the classifieds so hopefully I'll find one. Didn't see any on eBay. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, Mack0331 said:

Thanks for the info. I put up.a wanted post in the classifieds so hopefully I'll find one. Didn't see any on eBay. 

Not likely you'll see one listed, but there are a couple being parted on there.  Try French Lake Auto in MN and RPM Motorsports.  I know they have at least one 57 being parted.

Edited by lancemb (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There are many 57s out at Trust Salvage in the Auburn/ Covington area. 

 

image.png.71b163534c42c45c8ee709b819842856.png

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Beemon said:

There are many 57s out at Trust Salvage in the Auburn/ Covington area. 

I'll check it out theres a few things I need. They really only open on Saturdays for 4 hours?

Edited by Mack0331 (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the body all down to bare metal and got a coat of primer on it. Didn't want to leave it bare metal too long. Didn't mask off the inside cause I'm going to put another coat of raptor liner inside anyway . body work will start shortly. 

20180331_160914.jpg

20180331_160432.jpg

20180331_160457.jpg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Mack0331 said:

I'll check it out theres a few things I need. They really only open on Saturdays for 4 hours?

 

Give Matt a call, he's usually open to week day drive-ins if the schedule permits.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got the doors and fenders in primer. I'm really getting tired of sanding ! Got the doors and the fenders on. Everything is going together pretty well for just a initial test fit. It looks like a car again for now.

20180401_174433.jpg

20180408_115728.jpg

20180414_165346.jpg

20180425_170909.jpg

20180426_170521.jpg

20180427_170716.jpg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I went and bought all the body work supplies and paint holy crap quality paint is expensive ! I knew it would be expensive so I wanted to get that out of the way so I could better budget some other things. I don't know a whole lot about paint I have a guy helping with that. Went to the body supply store and talked to them for a bit . Told them I wanted pretty top tier paint. Like I said I knew it would be expensive but damn $680 a gallon then $500 clear coat plus all the reducer and stuff on top of that  man this car better look AMAZING! Now on to the body work then getting this thing painted. 

 

For weather strip kits is kanter the best option ? Their kit that includes everything doors , windows , windshield , rear glass all that is $1800! Seems like a awful lot for some rubber. I mean I'll pay it if I have to just seems like a lot. 

 

 

20180502_102844.png

Edited by Mack0331 (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Check Steele rubber, too. They might be cheaper than kanter's mark up price. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Steele Rubber has a kit for you car. They are pretty much in line. I've used Steele for my weatherstrips on both my vehicles. Fit and look factory like. As for paint, I went through TCP Global. They have a section called Auto Color Library, where you can look up the factory color paint of your car, and order it in various types (Lacquer, Enamel, SS Urethane, Base coat/ClearCoat) A lot less costly then what you are working with, and the paint matches the factory color chart really well. website is TCPGlobal.com. Hope this helps.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll check out steele rubber .

 

The paint I got is DuPont chromabase, and PPG 2002 clear coat. I didn't want factory colors.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Mack0331 said:

 

 

The paint I got is DuPont chromabase, and PPG 2002 clear coat. I didn't want factory colors.

Careful.  If there is a failure in the finish PPG will blame DuPont and Dupont will blame PPG.

On the other hand that premium finish will stand up to everyday use in the elements, but like most of our restorations it will lead a sheltered life and nearly any paint (except lacquer) will outlast you.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not going to be too sheltered I'm not going to be like 50k into a car to look at it. I am going to drive it. Probably more than I should a car like that lol.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now