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My 57 Buick special project


Mack0331

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got my transmission back. A little annoyed about two things. I specifically asked if the price they quoted me included rebuilding the torque ball and the guy said the price includes everything it needed. Well they didn't rebuild the torque ball I got that back in a box. Oh well I ordered a rebuild kit. Second they don't have the 3 open spots in converter for the flexplate to attach to in the right position. They have two open holes next to each other. I think by reading the manual I can figure out which of the bolt holes are for the flexplate to attach to. For bolting the flexplate to the converter are they just 3 regular bolts ? I thought I rememered like studs coming off the converter and going through the flexplate then nuts going on to attach the flexplate ? 

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On 56, they are studs and nuts. My shop did not do the torque ball either because it does not come with the kit. However, after I had the car on the road, I took it back to them and they did the repair for free (also had the rear axle shimmed at the same time, took advantage of the free labor to remove the rear axle). The torque ball is not hard to do, though. The kit comes with shims, you need to read the shop manual and then determine by hand what the right clearance "feels like". Make sure to remove all the rubber from the torque ball, too. The new kits have the rubber on the retainer.

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15 hours ago, Beemon said:

The kit comes with shims, you need to read the shop manual and then determine by hand what the right clearance "feels like".

Just use two of the shim as gaskets.  No need to 'set' anything when using the outer torque ball retainer with rubber.  Coat the rubber with silicone grease (Silglyde---NAPA  and drive happy.

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Got the torque ball all rebuilt and the trans and motor in. The trans mount I got from CARS was a real piece of precision engineering lol. Wasn't even close to fitting. Had to elongate the two end holes on the crossmember to get it to fit. Its all in though. 

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Holy shit boys the body is back on. Sprayed the underside with raptor bed liner and got it set back on. The rear end needs to come left a bit I think the panhard bar is bent. Is it supposed to have a bend in it like in my pic or be straight ? It had that bend in it when I got the car thought it might just be like that but the rear is deffinetly too far to the right side of the car so something's up. 

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I tried to find a pic on Google before I painted and put that one in but couldn't find much. Decided to just put it in and deal with it later if it was bent. With the rear end sitting to far right I guess I better find one now. Try to find a stock one or maybe a adjustable that will fit ? 

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13 hours ago, Mack0331 said:

I tried to find a pic on Google before I painted and put that one in but couldn't find much. Decided to just put it in and deal with it later if it was bent. With the rear end sitting to far right I guess I better find one now. Try to find a stock one or maybe a adjustable that will fit ? 

 

It should be straight for sure.  If push came to shove I would believe a threaded end bar with attaching adjustable end could be made. I believe the original ends are welded to the bar? Cut the welds and cut a new bar to correct length?  

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19 hours ago, Mack0331 said:

I tried to find a pic on Google before I painted and put that one in but couldn't find much. Decided to just put it in and deal with it later if it was bent. With the rear end sitting to far right I guess I better find one now. Try to find a stock one or maybe a adjustable that will fit ? 

 

If you can not find an  OE I believe Classic Industries can offer an adjustable panhard.  

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Mack, 

 

It is supposed to be straight. That is quite the curvature on that panhard bar. I would try to find a replacement for that one. I'm quite sure someone on the forum has one for a 57 available. On the otherside, your progress is looking great! I wish my wagon was at that level right now...

 

Jim

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31 minutes ago, Mack0331 said:

Thanks for the info. I put up.a wanted post in the classifieds so hopefully I'll find one. Didn't see any on eBay. 

Not likely you'll see one listed, but there are a couple being parted on there.  Try French Lake Auto in MN and RPM Motorsports.  I know they have at least one 57 being parted.

Edited by lancemb (see edit history)
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Got the body all down to bare metal and got a coat of primer on it. Didn't want to leave it bare metal too long. Didn't mask off the inside cause I'm going to put another coat of raptor liner inside anyway . body work will start shortly. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I went and bought all the body work supplies and paint holy crap quality paint is expensive ! I knew it would be expensive so I wanted to get that out of the way so I could better budget some other things. I don't know a whole lot about paint I have a guy helping with that. Went to the body supply store and talked to them for a bit . Told them I wanted pretty top tier paint. Like I said I knew it would be expensive but damn $680 a gallon then $500 clear coat plus all the reducer and stuff on top of that  man this car better look AMAZING! Now on to the body work then getting this thing painted. 

 

For weather strip kits is kanter the best option ? Their kit that includes everything doors , windows , windshield , rear glass all that is $1800! Seems like a awful lot for some rubber. I mean I'll pay it if I have to just seems like a lot. 

 

 

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Edited by Mack0331 (see edit history)
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Steele Rubber has a kit for you car. They are pretty much in line. I've used Steele for my weatherstrips on both my vehicles. Fit and look factory like. As for paint, I went through TCP Global. They have a section called Auto Color Library, where you can look up the factory color paint of your car, and order it in various types (Lacquer, Enamel, SS Urethane, Base coat/ClearCoat) A lot less costly then what you are working with, and the paint matches the factory color chart really well. website is TCPGlobal.com. Hope this helps.

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12 hours ago, Mack0331 said:

 

 

The paint I got is DuPont chromabase, and PPG 2002 clear coat. I didn't want factory colors.

Careful.  If there is a failure in the finish PPG will blame DuPont and Dupont will blame PPG.

On the other hand that premium finish will stand up to everyday use in the elements, but like most of our restorations it will lead a sheltered life and nearly any paint (except lacquer) will outlast you.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Since I'll be painting soon and don't want water messing up my expensive ass paint I built a manifold / water trap with some copper pipes. I know I didn't have to make the horizontal parts as long as I did but I bought the pipe in 10' sticks so was trying to work it out so I used it all. Close to 80' total. Put ball valves on the down pipes to drain water. Also added a devilbliss 3 stage filter / desiccant dryer to use when painting. I never soldered copper before this but it was easy and it works great no leaks. I ran it for a while with a sander and did get water out all the downpipes. Still got a good amount of water in the first little filter but compressor was running pretty hard working the sander and I didn't notice any water getting to the tool so it should do good for painting especially after running through the new dryer. I'll get a new hose for painting too. 

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  • 1 month later...

Haven't posed in a while still plugging along on the body work. Its almost all done now. My family car Taurus SHO blew a turbo so had to take some time off the Buick for a bit. I ordered all the weather striping , chanel runs , window seals every rubber part on the car that wasn't cheap. Was hoping to be painting by now but got pushed back a bit when falimly car died. Bit more sanding and shaping then I'll primer it again block sand final time then finally paint time ! 

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